- Seam Lines FAQ -

Just FYI, resin does not release dangerous gasses when sanded. It's the fine dust which, when inhaled, deposits itself in your lungs and suffocates over time and exposure, since the material doesn't degrade by itself.

Also, 'very fine sandpaper' is a rather vague term. How about adding that one should start with rough and work all the way to fine, where rough can be around 400 grade and fine as high as 1200?

Good FAQ idea. ^^

 

I posted this in another thread, but 2000 grit is too fine and will make the resin a little shiny... 1500 is perfect.

 

I actually find that 400 grade sandpaper is too fine. ^_^;;; leaves too mirror of a finish on matte dolls. I FINISH sand at 320, and everything is nicely matte, no coating required.

You also might want to put in some information on HOW to sand. (Circles, against the seams, not with it, etc.)

 

Tanned color dolls from Narin Creative in Korea (aka Narin Dolls) are OK to sand. The color is mixed into the resin and they are the same color to the core. We received sanded tanned dolls in the 43 cm size, and they looked just fine sanded. 60 cm dolls do not come sanded, however, they would also be ok to sand yourself if you choose to.

Catrina

 

Could you be a little more specific with "mask"? Do you mean a gas mask, or will a surgical mask do? Also, what are the benefits of wet and dry sanding?

Also, Rainy Dolls (the larger ones) come with their seams sanded, and I know at least Serendipity Ismy does, as well.

 

Mask = gas mask, or at least one you would find in a hardware store (aka, seriously heavy duty)

 

Since the resin dust is the dangerous element, is it necessary to wear a mask when slicing off seams with a knife? I took off one seam and noticed a toxic smell but wasn't sure if it was as dangerous as the fine dust.

 

This is great! We'll remove some of the extra posts at the bottom, later, to keep things clear. I'm hoping some more people will come in and answer some more questions about sanding and masks, etc...!


but some things you might want to add/clarify. ^_^ :

If your doll has large seams, you can remove the bigger areas with a hobby knife. Volks has one called a Zoukei-mura Ceramic Knife (or Cera-Canna). This knife will cut resin, but it's not sharp enough to cut you easily. It's also great for other types of resin modifications. In most cases you don't really need the knife for sanding seams, though; sandpaper will do fine. You can get sandpaper from your local home improvement store, or you can order it from hobby shops or even Volks ( http://www.volks.co.jp/en/ ).

After you sand your doll, wash the parts gently and thoroughly with soap and water. You may find the Volks cleaning sponge helpful, but it's not nessesary.

I would also add in the part about companies sanding seams, that people should realize that a doll is not "unfinished" or "defective" if it comes to them with seams. Most ABJD come with seams. Unless the company stated that the seams were sanded prior to buying, you should expect a doll to come with seams.

 

Maybe a mention of wet-sanding under water in addition to wearing a mask would be good. The water keeps the dust from flying around.

 

I just posted a couple of side-by-side comparison pics of sanded vs. unsanded seams here if you want to include those, you're welcome to ^_^

 

I asked that in another thread, too but it could be interesting for the FAQ:

In some parts, you can still see where the parting line is (or was), but you can't feel it anymore... completely smooth. And sanding more doesn't seem to help (only creates a flat spot so I stopped).

Is it normal that you can see the parting lines even when sanded? Will it be running through the whole piece so sanding further won't help? (I guess it is so but that is one thing that's not obvious and could be included. ^^)

 

I don't know the answer to Sylverscale's question, but I'm having the exact same problem. Even when the seams feel perfectly smooth, I can still see the line. My only theory is that because I had and played with Griffyn for six months before I tried sanding his seams, that very fine dirt worked its way deep into the cracks where the resin was mismatched.

No clues how to fix it, but I'd love to know, too! I don't want to sand flat patches on my poor boy ^_^;

Cypher

 

It is my CP EL (normal skin). I have him since November last year but sanded him this month.

Sanding more only creates flat spots. And I am not sure about the dirt-theorie because I had to sand away some scratches on my boys body an there is nothing visible anymore (and they were quite deep on one part...). But the partin line still shows and it's a little lighter, too, everywhere I sanded.

 

My sister and I scrubbed her Zantedescha down with baking soda and toothbrushes; it's a very fine abraisive, and it might help even out the color by "microsanding" the rest of the doll to match.

 

Well, the baking soda didn't really help. You can still see where the lines were and the parts are still lighter in color. It seems to me that I could sand right through to the middle of the part and I could still see the parting lines.

Maybe it has something to do with the resin and how well it melts together.

I sanded Dimo today and you can't see the lines anymore. And I didn't even have to sand very much. When it felt smooth the lines were gone. So very unlike my EL. *sigh* Dimo has SOOM "old" skin. New skin is said to match CP Delfs so there might be the same problems then. I don't know...

Well, it's not worse than having seamlines. I guess it's even a little better and the lighter spots might darken a little (I hope they will).

 

I've had this happen too. Don't just sand the seam, sand around it as well. If you just go over the seam and nowhere else, you'll get that flat spot. If you work the parts around the seams as well, you can sand more and keep the shape of the limb in tact.

It WILL go away and if you sand around the seam too, that will help blend it. I've had the same problem with just about every doll I've sanded before and by the time I'm done, they've all been fine within a couple days. I can't see ANY discolouration on Shou's body.

So basically, go over the body around the seam to help blend it, give it a good wash wish a Mr Clean Sponge, and that should do it. So far it's worked for me with at least 5 different companies.

 

I will try that, too, Thank you. ^^

Right now I don't have the time because it seems like a lot of work. I've sanded a lot and it is still visible, but not really much so it doesn't bother me that much. It's only visible in certain situations, depending on light, for example.

The parts that have been lighter seem to darken, too. I will take a closer look at that. ^^

Well, I might try on the extra neckparts I got from Luts. They have seemlines, too. (I'm trying a lot on the neckparts, it seems. ^_~)

 

I was wondering if you need to unstring your doll in order to sand them? I'm very worried about unstringing Absinthe and not being able to re-string him (like many people are!)

 

Not that I've seen, just hold the part you wish to sand and sand away, bending and pulling as needed to get seams that are sometimes in sockets.

 

Possible stupid question, but do you need to coat your doll in anything after your done sanding and washing?

 

It's not necessary. It might make it a tiny bit easier, but it'd only be worth it if you're very comfortable unstringing/restringing your doll.
(Look a few posts above and you'll see that I asked the same question before I sanded)

And Cosplaybunny, no you don't. You could spray them with MSC UV cut for protection from the sun's rays...but that has nothing to do with sanding, mind you.

 

Wow so if using normal MSC thats useless??
Anyone can give some opinion about this? is it useful to spray normal MSC instead of UV cut?

 

I only see a reason to spray the resin if you are going to blush the doll. UV Cut would make more sense to use if you don't intend to blush (paint shadows etc.) on the doll, to prevent it from discolouration due to tooooo much sun.

gah sanding is taking forever. I came here wondering if it was normal for the line to be smooth but still somewhat noticeable, a bit of white line.. I guess so. I gues I keep sanding away! Watch my doll be slimmer in her clothes!

 

this is probably a stupid question but have you tried washing off the part you're sanding? I know with other things sometimes the dust gets in the area you're sanding (especially seams and stuff) and it can look pale until you wash it off, one of my dolls ears is a bit paler where I've been moding them because I havent given him a good scrub on that ear yet

the other areas are now normal coloured after I scrubbed with my magic sponge

 

I'm actually wet sanding as well. So..(maybe that's a problem too..) but I'll try Magic Eraser on it! see if that helps, thanks!

thanks babytarragon, yours is cute^^ it may not.. I'll try a bit more but then I think it's ok if it doesn't I just didn't want to keep sandling/widdling away til she's was more thin than she should be!

 

I have the same problem where the sanded lines are white after sanding. I rarely expose my doll to direct sunlight, but for some reason it yellowed. I guess you can test sand somewhere else on the body to see if that part will turn whiter, then you'll know that the doll has yellowed. (under the foot of on the inside of the head for example.

I have heard that MSC or some other coating makes the doll look a bit more yellow with the coating, but after you remove it the yellow is gone. Maybe that's the problem?

Question, is a gas mask necessary when you are sanding with a knife?

 

Just finished sanding my third doll today. ^_^ She is all lovely and smooth now! Sometimes when your fingers can't feel the seam line, you can still see it there, but I find that a bit more sanding will solve that problem and the line does disappear.

LittleP:
I think even non-UV-cut Mr Super Clear would probably have a little protective effect, just because it's another layer before the light hits the resin. But if you are only spraying for UV protection, then it makes more sense to use UV-cut.
I spray one of my dolls with non-UV-cut Mr Super Clear, but my aim is to improve the texture of his resin, rather than to protect him from UV.

No. Slicing resin off with a knife doesn't produce resin dust like sanding does.

(I don't even wear a mask when I'm sanding, I just make sure I'm in a well-ventilated area.)

 

A few things I'm thinking while sanding my Volks girl:

1.) Is it just me or is this going to take about 2-3 hours per piece (started with the thigh)...

2.) Whats the point of the finer sand papers? I'm using Volks Zoukei-mura Sponge Paper (#240-320) as my roughest and it seems to work fine and the sanded resin is the same texture as the non-sanded areas.

3.) Will that super tiny thin slightly different coloured line ever go away?

4.) Is there a trick to making it even other than circular motions?

5.) Does Volks offer the service of sanding, coating, etc after the doll is bought and home? ^^;;

 

Has anyone used a rotory, dremyl type sander on their doll?

 

I posted a little something to my flickr on basic sanding techniques and doing a full-body sanding to even out color and texture:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14083142@N04/sets/72157602143573169/detail/

 

Hey guys - its question time again!

I've just got my doll in and need to sand his seams. I can only buy sandpaper online because I dont live near the shops! I checked out ebay (uk) and can only find tamiya finishing paper (range 400,600 and 1000) in blue. This seems to be the most popular grade range BUT will the blue produce a staining residue??

I wanted the white variety but can only get them from international ebay shops which will take considerably longer to get to me. I'd like the sandpaper a.s.a.p.

Should I get the blue variety? Does anyone with experience know this brand to be fine?? Thanks guys, Maya

 

I wish I could answer some of the questions here, but I'm not very exprienced.

I'd personally stay away from blue sand paper, just in case. I don't think it should stain though.


I do have a question however.

Are thick pink lines near the seams normal?

I contacted the company, and they said it's typical. However, other owners of the same type of doll haven't experienced this. They call it abnormal.

So... could seam lines possibly be... er... colored?

Do you think it is safe to sand them? I don't know how deep these pink lines penetrate the resin, and it would be a shame after all that sanding (and money spent on a $600 dollar doll) if those pink lines remained.

 

A small package of assorted fine grit sandpaper can be found in WalMart's automotive section (where they have the pastewax, etc.) I found this package of sandpaper at a Super WalMart.

 

i just did some sanding on my very first doll and was curious: to keep the sheen all uniform does one sand the entire piece, not just around the seams? i sanded on and around the seams with 400 and 320 grit but there's still sanding marks even though i've smoothed the seams down....do i need to get finer grit to make it "blend" away?

 

well, it's not so much the paleness i'm wondering about, it's the little scratch marks from sanding around the smoothed down seams...i'll see how it looks in the morning to see if it's just my nit-picky perfection attitude kicking in or if it's really a problem.
thanks babytarragon.

for sanding the entire piece, does that include sanding the hands/feet/sm back piece and elbow pieces to keep the body all uniform? maybe just the main body pieces...??

 

Go over it with 600-1200 grade. Those scratches should go away. ^_^

 

I got 600 grade at Wal Mart in the automotive section. Small sheets in wet-sanding. Just look for touch up paints and supplies like that and fiberglass.

 

I made a beginner's basic sanding tutorial if you want to look it over.
The links to the other one in the first post don't seem to be working anymore.

Here's mine:
http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237593

Cheers!

 

DollZone dolls come sanded by default. I think Bobobie dolls come sanded, too, or JunkySpot sands 'em down, one of the two.

If for whatever reason you need to sand a DollZone doll, though, I'm pretty sure the resin is tinted all the way through. Anya is all the way through, at least.

 

okay so i'm just starting to modify my doll at alll.

i have started to sand down his seam lines. before i touched him he had a slighty shiney look to him and had started to turn yellow from age. after i coated the parts i have done so far it seems to be blending okay. i was using a rougher sandpaper to give a matte look and once i put the sealant even that evened out.

over time will this show or cause damage?

 

I have to admit I'm wondering this as well.

Ryuichi

 

Just thought to throw in this tip in. I actually learned this working with polishing up silver when working with silver metal clays, and though I know not many folks would want to make an actual polished look on their dolls the concept of this is to eliminate any "scratched" look. Instead of using a circular motion when sanding, use a figure eight motion as this will prevent patterns forming. Granted from the seam sizes it'll be a small figure eight, but considering it's a somewhat more vertical/horizontal than a circle, you'd probably get the sanding done a tad quicker as you move along it since you'd get more area worked on at a time. Doing figure eights do take a little practice (I still tend to get out of sync at times lol) but I find it works well.

 

Has anyone tried caride scrapers for seam removal? They are the standard in the resin horse world and I LOVE them. They really do feel like you're peeling a carrot and it's difficult to damage the resin with them. THey can also be used to carve small details and won't cut you unlike a hobby knife.

I get mine here:
http://www.riorondo.com/tools/scrapers.html
(if you want to look at their minatures site http://www.riorondo.com/

 

you dont want to use anything over 600 unless you have a tan doll. or else the resin wil become shiny

 

Just thought to put in my thoughts on some of the ceramic knives that came out more recently with the companies. I bought one and let me tell you, it makes removing seams so much easier! Luts, USAVolks has them, I think more doll companies are starting to offer them but those two came in mind. They are a touch pricey (VolksUSA is like $30 w/more variety and luts is $17+shipping). Before I've gotten firm sanding pads that got rid of the seams but cause a "flattening" in the whole area that you can see depending on lighting. and using the spongy sanders does great in keeping things even but takes so long X.x
Using these "knives" you can scrap excess off quickly and safely. I cut through resin like firm butter with these and I either use long cutting strokes or even a scrapping (back and forth) motion depending on how bad the seam is. If it's not bad I scrap it down a little bit, if it's heavy I use longer strokes. Then i start sanding them smooth. The edges are blunt so unless you just poke yourself really hard with these things you can't cut yourself. I highly recommend them for folks wanting to get rid of seams themselves. I've used exacto knifes before too and by comparison, you get more control with the ceramic knives and they don't leave as deep of etchings either. Certainly much safer too.

 

Thanks so much for the info

 

Does anyone know if it is necessary to get a sanding 'paste' (I think Leeke's sells one)...Or is it ok to just go with the finest grade sandpaper? (obviously accounting for not making it shiny).

 

Not necessary at all!