Supplies removing face up and stain

Hey there! Do you mind showing a picture of it after cleaning it as much as you normally can? Sometimes there could be actual stains but other times it's that the paint itself just isn't fully removed. I think Windsor and newton is the best, at least for me. But sometimes removal can still require a lot of effort: scrubbing to clean with the solvent and toothbrush, gently picking stubborn bits of paint in creases with a pin or toothpick. Sometimes people use magic eraser sponge to buff as well, just be gentle.

 

How are you applying the winsor newton? I think you should be able to let it soak for a little while and then scrub it with an old soft toothbrush to help get in the corners some. You can also pull bits of cotton ball off and wrap it around a toothpick to get in small cracks.
If it's really not coming off, you can use acetone, but I wouldn't let it soak and would rinse it with soap and water right after. You can also try acetone free colorless nail polish remover, but again that will take some scrubbing and you still wouldn't want to let it dry on the resin and would want to rinse it frequently.

 

I don't have much to add as far as stain removal goes. What has been said here and what is to be found in the sticky threads is pretty much it.
But as an owner of several dolls with dark lips I do have this tip to prevent staining:
Remember that when removing the old face up, the sealant is sometimes dissolved before the paint is. This leaves the doll unprotected while the paint dissolves. Make sure to lift that paint off the doll and use a clean section of the tissue/rag/cloth/cotton /whatever you use to hold the solvent.
Don't wipe the vibarnt colours off in such a way that it smears over the unprotected surface, that risks staining. If you accidentally do smear dissolved paint where you don't want it, wipe it off right away with a clean section of the cloth, before the solvent evaporates and the paint adheres to the surface, if you are quick you can often avoid permanent stains.

Now, if you are lucky, the stains are not in there permanently, but simply sits on the surface, as quilleth sugested. Trying out different solvents is useful, but do read up on them first and be careful. Do spot tests on the head back if you are unsure.

 

I really don't think it will be necessary to bring other solvents into the mix. Windsor and newton is very strong. One thing I do is if I leave it on the surface to permeate better I set a timer. Check back in 10 minutes then scrub vigorously. Use a paper towel to wipe off the gunk as you go and apply more Windsor and newton. It's a slow process sometimes to get the head really clean again.
The instances where I have actually stained a resin head with any Faceup materials are so seldom (only once with a certain dark pink pastel shade many years ago) I can't offer much advice on that, I just think it may require more cleaning and it will come off.

I actually made a tutorial-ish video quite a while back on what it's realistically like, removing with Windsor and newton. I don't know if it's helpful at all, maybe

Spoiler: Video

I think at least maybe it will make you feel better that it's just kind of a big pain and you can get the hang of it with persistence.

 

I have to admit the face-up is so messy I don't know where the stain is in particular

Ideally a head should be absolutely clean before you paint it, then properly sealed. When using paints for details they should be properly diluted as well. That way there is pretty much no chance for it to stain. Overpainting over crusty remains that couldn't be removed should also be avoided at all costs. It not only makes the face-up look worse, it also makes it more likely for it to stain over time.

Anyway, how exactly do you clean? It's not only about the solvent you use, but also HOW you use it. Some people only use a tissue to rub the solvent over the surface, and then are confused why the sealant and paint won't budge.
You should:
- use a decently strong and safe solvent (isopropyl/rubbing alcohol that is at least 90% or stronger is a good choice)
- use something that allows you to scrub with some force (magic eraser, toothbrush)
- regularly rinse off the loosened paint/sealant remains while the head is still wet from the alcohol
- use a toothpick to get inside the tight spaces/scrape off softened residues from spots you cannot reach otherwise

Soaking is usually not needed, force tends to work better.
Regularly rinsing with water is both done to actually remove the gunk from the head (else you just keep pushing it around), and to let sealant residues show up (once the water dried they will become visible as white patches).

 

Awesome @rosepetals I'm really glad it could be helpful! You've got this!