Sewing -Noble Threads- Patterns and Progress with Medieval clothes circa50-1650 AD

First of all, what period are you aiming at? From the belt in your inspiration picture I would say something like 1100-1200, is that correct?
For a dress that early eyelets were not in use yet and the type of dress you are looking at don't need any lacing. It gets most of its flexibility from the fabric itself (typically a thin but densely woven wool).
The dress type is not meant to be super tight.

There is a type of dress from that period called a "bilaut", that sometimes seems to be somewhat tight (we have to base that on sculptures and art, as there are none preserved) and some speculates that they may be laced in the sides, but there is not a lot of proof for that. If there are laces, sewn eyelets is probably your best bet.

If you want to go for historical accuracy and you want a tight dress that laces shut, I'd say look at a later period, something like 1350 and forward.

If we forget about accuracy and look at adapting things for doll use, I would suggest that a hidden closure in the back using modern methods is a viable option. Dolls don't squish like humans do, so sometimes it's necessary.
If the fabric is very firm and the lace holes are not under too much strain, you can also simply use an awl to push a hole between the threads and secure the opening with fray check or fine stitches.

 

Thank you! I ended up just making a simple kirtle type pattern with hidden closures at the back. And yes, I was aiming for roughly 1200 for time period.

This is how it turned out:
Enough for the day. She is content until tomorrow.

As for eyelets, I just mean in general, where do you purchase them? And small zippers, trims etc? My interests lie in Renaissance and modern as well.

 

Fantastic! I know what you mean about the thickness if layered, so that's what I did on the sleeves, just added little muslin extensions. And she is wearing a bfc ink tank top beneath which she happened to just be wearing already and it sorta works until I get the neckline extension done. (If I'm not too lazy. Lol)

I like to dink around with embroidery floss so i just sorta fudged it on this gown and played a bit for the look of trim. I ended up listing this pattern I made for cheap on etsy but anyone here in group who wishes to have it, I will gladly email it to you for free.

 

Love her gown!
Tiny Zippers has little zippers & other stuff. There are various websites selling 1/16 eyelets which are the tiniest I've seen.

 

Thank you and thank you! Lol

 

I love the drape of the sleeve, this outfit looks amazing

Wow, the fit on this gown is awesome!

 

it's funny, for all the convenience and speed machine sewing brings, I often find it to be a bit troublesome myself, haha! But what a great result, especially for a first try

 

@Changeling, your gown looks awesome! I will second Tiny Zippers. We used to have a shop in town that sold doll-scale ribbon, but the owners were elderly and closed it all up a year or so ago. I cried.

@Rosslyn, lucky you on the tablet weaving friend! I haven't had time or courage to try tiny tablet weaving for my crewe, but now that I finally have my medieval dolls, I may have to dig all that out and give it a try. Or, maybe pebble weave.

I'm working on a 12th-century-ish outfit for my new Tera Zenith guy, but I will probably wind up posting more on the fantasy thread with him, since I'm sure I'll wind up mixing centuries. Ah, well. I still love to check in here and see what everyone's doing--even if it is years between visits. Life gets away from us so quickly!

 

I spent a number of home-work commutes reading through this thread and I love it. From the beautiful clothes you all make to the discussions about period accurate underwear. It was very educational and inspiring.

 

Dunno if it's okay to post here but...where do you find fabric for your outfits?

 

There's a lot of places where you can get fabric from - anything from conventional fabric stores to using old clothes. Depending on the look you want to go for, some places are better than others. More basic fabrics like linens and such are usually available pretty much anywhere.

If shopping online, it may be helpful to search for quilting fabrics if you're looking for patterns, as they often have smaller scale ones.

 

It also helps to be very aware of the scale of the weave (or knit) of your fabric. Velveteen substitutes very well for velvet at doll scale. Cross stitch fabric works well for monks' cloth.

 

The hardest part of finding the right fabrics is the scale. If your doll is 1/3 scale, then the fabric should also be 1/3 as thick. However that may be impossible, so then you have to try find something that still drapes really well. It's always best to shop for 'fabrics' in person, so you can feel it, and see how it hangs.

For Medieval clothes fine brocades work for noble folk. Of course, stores rarely carry it, so the next best place is the secondhand discount stores. The advantage there is that the clothing has been washed and worn some, and you can get a really good idea about the drape. As for 'peasant' type clothes, then something soft and natural. No synthetics. Squeeze the fabric and see if it holds a crinkle. If not, then skip it. Most quilting fabrics are far too thick and stiff. However, if you have no other choice, then do pre-wash it to remove some of the sizing so it's a little softer.

I find velvets and velveteens far too stiff for anything other than a close-fitting bodice, although velveteen is definitely the preferable of the two. Most velvets are far too thick (would be like wearing a plush carpet in human scale) Velour, although a synthetic (so technically not period appropriate) hangs and drapes so much better, so I use it anyways.

And one more thing - colour. When making miniature clothes, it's important to keep scale in mind, and that also relates to colour. Colours should be a shade duller than if they were for humans. Avoid anything really bright, otherwise the garment instantly screams "doll clothes".

 

Hi there, I binged this whole thread yesterday, and I am SO impressed by everyone's creativity and willingness to push themselves out of their comfort zones. Mods, may I ask if ancient greek and minoan costuming might be allowed here? I'm currently weaving wool chitons and girdles for my dolls and was hoping to share them with other historical costumers, but if that's too far outside the scope of this thread I can make my own!

Relevant to many, this site crafts beautiful tiny fibulae you can use to pin your dolls' medieval and earlier clothes together: Bow Fibula | Crafty Celts

 

I’ve made another Renaissance style gown for Raccoondoll - STILL working on getting the pattern right, don’t think I’m there yet, but at least I solved the problem of making the sleeves tight fitting - I used pearl buttons and tiny elastic loops this time!


I used a silk lining fabric, which drapes a bit better than the taffeta I used last time.

More or less based on MB Lilac’s wonderful pattern - but with my own drafting for the bodice and sizing, as she’s a very different size and shape! But wow, her dresses are so inspiring!!!

 

@morganatron ah I saw your post in another thread and wondered if she had to remove her hands to put on the gown! Nice to know you solved the tight sleeve problem with button loops. I like this dress a lot!

 

Pretty

Teddy

 

I'm impressed. A fabric like that looks like it'll show wrinkles everywhere, but it's smooth in the picture.

 

Thank you!!! And yeah, it drives me absolutely nuts to have to remove hands to put clothes on dolls, so I've been trying to design dresses where you don't have to. Annoying to make, but it means they actually get worn, as otherwise I'm too annoyed with them to take them on and off! I just wish more dolls had magnet hands, like MNF and Withdoll do - I've definitely been spoiled sewing for them!

Thank you!

Yeah, that was a challenge! I lined the bodice with cotton and the sleeves with lining fabric, and that seemed to work pretty well.

 

That is a beautiful dress! Nice use of the buttons, too.

 

I love the proportion of the little lace cuffs on those sleeves!

 

Thank you both so much!!!

 

This thread is so cool! I'm so glad others have an interest in creating historical clothing, it certainly saves me a lot of legwork seeing other people's processes. Does anyone know of a good pattern for a doll sized chaperon?

 

I've not seen one - it's the sort of thing I make up as I go along. I don't think I've uses a pattern for any of the full-sized ones I've made over the years either.

It's basially just a padded roll sewn into a doughnut shape that fits around the doll's head, with a drape (and liripipe depending on the style) added. None of that really require a pattern.

If you man the earleir, liripipe hood, version, I'd suggest l,ooking at page 193 of Sarah Thursfield.s book, The Medieval Tailor's Assistant (first edition - I'm not sure of the page nu,mbe rin the second) for a picutre of the shapes you need to cut... or for online sources - Cynthia Virtue's website has a good page on hoods that would be easy to adapt to doll size with a bit of experimentation with paper towels to get the size right (Hoodlum)

Actually, the other articles on Cynthia's pages are worth a look through too Medieval Clothing Pages: Articles by Cynthia Virtue

Teddy

 

I've been working on my Goblins outfit. Right now it fits under historical so I thought I'd share it here before all the accessories made it fantasy.

Her kit is based off male Rus Viking clothing. The only major change I've made is the shirt opens all the way in the front. Minor changes where because of size. Like using dyed flannel to mimic wool, using braid trim to mimic tablet woven leg bands, ribbon for the belt, and a hidden snap in her rectangle cloak. the Pennacular brooch I made was too dainty to go through everything and hold it shut(not that you can see it in the not historically accurate plaid).

And I just realized I need to trim the tail on her belt ^^;

 

I may have to, "Squeeeeee!" at how adorable this is.

Teddy

 

Thank you! She's quickly becoming my favorite to sew for because everything looks so cute! I'm working on her adventurers bag now. Making her a tiny cauldron and fish to hang from it!

 

Yay!!! I just found this thread. Thank you for creating it. I'm planning full 14th century period clothing for my dolls and this has links I've been using in my other hobby so I know I'm on the right track!

You did a great job for an Italian Renn. Sometimes doing a sloper for a doll helps. I know I use that technique on hard to fit humans and its easier.

 

My fantasy clothing plans got a lot more historical as I started planning to dress Y'der. Thanks to a French illustration & "The Medieval Tailor" book, my planned tunic became a woolen houppelande. Taming all the fullness was daunting until I pinned it in place. After that, the wool & a steam iron did a nice job of settling the pleats into place.
His lady Lisette's garb is based on an illustration & pattern ideas from Herbert Norris's Costume history book.Apparently they are unconcerned with time as her dress is a century earlier than his...

 

What is a century to the longevity of elves

Teddy

 

@cthulhu the pleats look perfect!

 

Thanks skyealloway! Thank goodness the wool holds its shape so nicely. It was fascinating to work on this & gain a better understanding of the evolution of men's gowns in the process. It is like wearing a warm woolen blanket held down with a belt, showing both his wealth & his good fortune when living in a drafty stone building on a cold damp day.
Teddy I'm glad we are of similar thought on such things. I set out to make medieval garb...& kept it to what I found in the history books...but there's several hundred years displayed in the elven realm here in the end.

Dante's Cote is the other Medieval garb I've recently finished.

 

Gorgeous work @cthulhu ! I love houppelande, lot of drama.

 

Thanks elfy016! It is indeed a dramatic excuse for putting fancy fabrics to use for the sleeves eh? I'd never realized quite how dramatic Y'der & Dante were until I started on their garb for my recent "redressing the boys" project. :}

 

Finally finished my knight outfit for Raphael, my Iplehouse FID boy!



I used MBLilac's wonderful free FID pattern as a base - this one: Knights - Gallery 2019 - but altered it a fair bit for an early medieval look. The "chainmail" is made from a terrible sparkly mesh fabric that's probably intended for party wear I guess, but backed on to black cotton manages to look like in scale chainmail, more or less?! The necklace is made from an earring, the boots are Peter Pevensie/Athletic boots off ebay and are a bit too "cowboy" but I didn't quite feel confident making my own boots quite yet! The sword is an old Lord Of The Rings collectible, and I made the belt and scabbard. I put a split in the front of the chainmail and the sides of the surcoat so he can ride a horse. (Our Generation horses fit perfectly!) So, not quite historically accurate, but sort of getting there!

And sorry, had to photograph him with a stand as I didn't trust him not to faceplant right over on to the bricks without it!

 

Very nice.

Nothing out-of-period about slits for riding or ease of movement - many examples of slit (or open) seams exist
https://cottesimple.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/decameron_large.jpg

Teddy

 

@morganatron looks great!
Have you seen the shoe making thread? I was nervous to try making shoes until I read through it. Lots of useful info, and helpful people

 

morgantron, he looks great!
And I bet when you decide to tackle boots or shoes you'll find it's more doable than you expect. As elfy016 says, there are some great resources & people on DoA to aid you.
Your knight's chain mail works well. I'd intended something similar in one of my projects this summer but got distracted by all my other pretty fabrics & made a court costume instead. Someday perhaps for a spare outfit I'll get around to turning silvery fabric into mock mail... As this one is quite inspiring

 

Came across this photo, and thought I would share. I had managed to get two Iple KIDs into some Barbie costumes I'd made for a Home Economics project on Elizabethan costume, back when I was 17....

 

Thank you for your kind words, everyone! And yes, I think tackling shoes will be my next challenge!

Wow MB Lilac, those outfits are amazing!!! I love them so much!!!

 

Wow....

Teddy

 

By 17, I was making both my Mother's clothes and my own, but nothing this spectacular!

 

By 17 I was making costumes for school plays, as well as dresses for my sisters and niece, but also nothing this spectacular.

Teddy

 

That's just what I was thinking Teddy! Last spring I came across the Victorian bustle dress I made for my Barbie at 17 but it wasn't as nicely finished as MBLilacs work! You were clearly already on your path to doll miniature artistry by then.

 

Those outfits only look 'finished' but were anything but on the insides. No linings or underwear of any kind at all. The Elizabethan gown is just held out by some crude wire 'hoops' held up by seam binding, with just bare legs and bottom underneath. Not even any shoes. I would never do that now. But we all start somewhere.

 

I actually made muslin bloomers, petticoat & mock corset for mine. But finished edges were not very tidy. ;}
As I always say on the sewing thread, practice, practice, practice.
I love the fabric manipulation details on her sleeves & bodice front by the way. You were off to an excellent start even then.

 

In period, while she would have had a shift and stockings, he would have had a bare bottom in the Elizabethan times too. Drawers didn't come in until centuries later.

Teddy

 

Yay! I'll look forward to seeing the progress on them

Teddy

 

Sounds like a good plan.

Will you be doing the open-fronte/ladder-laced style bodice or the closed fronted style? that were becoming more prevalent in Venetian portraits of the 1590s..?

I'm surprised you're including a farthingale. Most Venetian images of the time have a softer/more draping line to the skirts that indicates a lack of hoops. I just had a quick look through the late Venetian galleries at The Realm Of Venus site to double check, in case it was my memory letting me down, and there are very few images that might be interpreted as having a farthingale.

Teddy

 

I'll happily follow along while you two sort out the skirts.
Just ystrdy I enjoyed reading this article
The Game of Chess by Sofonisba Anguissola
And sighed over the fine clothing & personality details the artist includes in the portraits of her sisters.

 

It's long been a favourite of mine, not least because of the lovely orange gown worn by the girl on the left.

Teddy

 

Fair enough. I'm sure (but, of course have no prooof) that it's a some-did-and-some-didn't situation. I've made several Italian style gowns (none) of them Venetian for people ove the years and they've all opted for no farthingale, as far as I recall, except one who wears it without the farthingale for Italian, and with a farthingale as a kirtle under a English style own.

Teddy