Info on: MSC vs Games Workshop Purity seal for doll owners

I see what you mean.
I'm located in Italy actually,i found some on-line stores that carries army painter,citadel pur and also some gloss..so i can buy in my country directly.
I guess that some ingredients of MSC are illegal here,but i see no issue with army painter and citadel.

 

Thanks so much! That's awesome to know, especially since there's a comic shop that is literally walking distance from where I live that sells Games Workshop supplies (I recently invested in some of their new Citadel Acrylics, which are AWESOME!). I will definitely be checking to see if they have this the next time I pop in.

 

I'm glad you can buy from your country directly, $abbatha! I found that the online store has the purity seal under a different name {Citadel Matt something} so I don't have to interact with humans- er, I don't have to drive half an hour to pick up a can. xD
Yeah, maybe it's just some ingredients that are allowed in Asia but not in the West...oh well. At least there are some options available. \o/

kaschan502, good luck! I'm jealous that you have a comic shop within walking distance, regardless of whether they carry purity seal or not. xD
How are the acrylics?

 

I'm used to buy off on-line shop,my city is small and none here are in the hobby.I've bought off some on-line stores everything..from pastels to gloss to brushes..

 

$abbatha, MSC is basically a spray-on resin. This makes it much more toxic if inhaled than say Testors. Most of the alternative sealants have similar ingredients to one another; MSC and apparently Purity Seal are the only ones like this.

*edited to correct information*

 

I never heard MSC called a spray-on resin, or that it was vastly different from the Volks Zukimura spray or any other sealant (except for its propensity to ghost up on darker resin). They're all not good to breathe in (and all smell just as vile during spraying).

Incidentally, I've heard more complaints from people using the 2011 batches of MSC. The Volks spray or Purity Seal seem to be better alternatives at the moment.

 

Purity seal is a spray resin Zennosaji. It has acrylic co-polymer resin listed 5th on ingredients. That is why it seals so similar to msc.

 

The Fairyland dolls have a spray shimmer to them. Anyone know what that is? Also does anyone know where to get Volks Zm in the UK? Or have it sent to the Uk?
Many thanks

 

Glow in dark: Oh that's good to know :O

 

wow, that's such a difference!

 

Yep, from what I've seen purity seal is almost the same as msc.

 

I got my can of Purity Seal yesterday! A good sized can and hefty. So today I gave my boy a face.

It works perfectly fine, but I don't know if it's because I didn't wait enough for it to dry or something but when I tried to gloss his lips it smudged the lip lines {I gotta do the faceup again though because it's really messy }.

 

Does anyone have a picture of a recent can? I went down to my local D&D/Warhammer shop and found some, but it didn't have any pictures or anything on the label, it was basically just a big warning label full of text.

They said I can't return it though, so I want to make sure it's the right stuff.

 

Just go back a couple of pages in this thread --

http://www.denofangels.com/forums/s...-doll-owners&p=8088282&viewfull=1#post8088282

 

Yep, that looks like it.

Thanks!

 

Yesterday I was talking with my boyfriend, he's a warhammer painter and comes around GW regularly and also checks on news, forums and websites alot.

I told him I needed a new can of sealant from them.. on wich he told me: 'They dont sell that anymore.. its not as matte as it used to be.. or they dont sell matte at all anymore'
They changed around all their products (paints, sealant etc). So.. I donno how the new sealant is on dolls, he told me it shines more now or that matte is not available at all

I need to get myself a can soon and see how 'shiny' it actually is now.

As to GW and resin: Resin in GW is called 'finecast', It IS resin, ive held them and the feeling to it is the same.

(source: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/blogPost.jsp?aId=16700019a)

The sealing is safe to resin (ive used GW purity seal since 2008) and had only issued with it atrackting alot of dust and dirt (but that might also be my 'I take my dolls everywhere'-attitude.) and turning quite 'brownish-yellow' after a while. But I think that with people that are not like me it will be fine.
I am actually not sure if the fine cast and our bjd resin is actually all the same- but resin is resin right?
Sorry for bringing the resin issue up, but I thought I might mention and link the finecast line cause everyone is talking abour 'resin models' but not what resin models.

(doesn't anyone ever find it weird that the mini-hobby and our hobby is always conected in one way or another? I even use GW paints on my dolls XD They are amazing)

 

What I had to realize is:
- yes, it shines. In some cases (like painting Vinyl figures) not as bad as BJD heads.
I painted a Sideshow head and he had several layers of a fresh can Purity Seal, he has only a very subtle shine, more like something that hasn't be sealed yet.
On BJD heads you already get a shiny surface after three or four layers.

- Mixing MSC + Purity Seal = Not a good idea
I tried this several times and it made the head very shiny.
When I only had a bit of MSC left I usually started out with PS and the last layers were MSC, hoping I could make the head not looking shiny with it.
Instead it got REALLY shiny, even worse than on heads were I only used PS.

However, a day later this shiny-ness disappeared, and after a few days more the head was totally matte o_O

I had various cans of PS, and while my MSC stayed quality-wise pretty much the same throughout the years every can of PS was different.

 

This is great! I was really worried about getting some MSC since i'm utterly skint and would have to order it from God only knows where, but I actually collect warhammer and I have bottles and bottles of Games Workshop Purity Seal.

Though, point of interest, from someone who has been using GWPS for a long time, you need to be really careful to test it before hand, I've seen horror stories where people have sprayed their models without testing before hand and it doesn't just 'frost' them, they go entirely white and it's a damn bugger to get off if you can at all. This isn't something to do with the weather as it dries, this is something that comes out as soon as you spray. So always check first, i'd hate to see anyone's face ups ruined. This tends to only happen with older bottles but nonetheless, better safe than sorry.

Edit: I just wiped Nancy's old face up and decided to start a fresh testing with GW Purity Seal and it worked great! It dried perfectly clear and without any tackiness like my old artists seal did! Thanks for this tip!

 

Uhm... I can't find it anywhere else, but I hope someone can answer? D: I recently sprayed a tan head with MSC and it's now lighter than the rest of the body... T.T Is it possible to add another spray on it using MSC or PS? What should I do? The face up is already done and I'm stuck! I really don't want to redo it if it's still possible to erase the chalkiness/lightness. Help?

 

That's just a regular side-effect of MSC on the darker resins. You'll see it everywhere. That's why I switched to the Volks Zukimura spray for darker resins, as the effect is much less, and I'm going to try out Purity Seal as well.

Did you use the UV-cut MSC? And how many layers? An artist I spoke with said to use non-UV for every coat except the last, as the UV formulation has the greater ghosting effect, and to use fewer layers on darker resins.

Sorry I couldn't give you better news. I don't know if a coat of something else would help.

 

Yes, it's the UV cut... T^T I heard somewhere that warming the head with hot towels and then spray again would work... But I haven't done it yet. T.T

 

pendrithgirl I love you so much right now! I just went and got my self a can of Purity seal! I cant wait to get cracking on my first face up! Games Workshop (GW)/ Citadel also produces resin models, so it is fairly safe to say that their paints and products can be used on resins with little consequence other than the desired outcome. Naturally do tests first however, resin is a fickle creature.

 

That's the right stuff, I laughed for about 15 minuets at the daunting, death label on the can, it's so overkill it's hilarious! GW has always been one to cover their... bottoms. With warnings, rules and terms of service particulars. Incidentally their spray sealer is no different.

 

I've started using Purity seal now. I've found it very good. A much finer grain than MSC. It does have a feint yellowish tint to it which you cannot see on NS but I did a WS mouse the other day and it took the stark whiteness away. I've found it more hard wearing than MSC. But very good for NS. I asked Games Workshop about going over resin and they said it would be fine for that.

 

Is this the correct can of purity seal? https://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1200065&rootCatGameStyle=

I would like to know as I plan on taking a trip to a shop I located in my area that might carry it. I figured I could get more ml for my money buying purity seal than I can with ZM or MSC... I guess if I cant find it though I'll just pick me up some testors dullcote. I've just been having a major problem trying to find out how many ml it has or what it costs for sure online... when I search for it I only get like 1-2 results :/ If not I suppose I could buy some MSC or something off Amazon although Purity Seal seems to be the better deal out of all the options.

 

Maybe. I bought mine over a year ago, at a shop selling the Warhammer type figures, and it was a white can with the name and all text all over the can. The can is indeed bigger than an MSC or Zouks can, about double the size. I was fuzzy on what it would look like too, and asked the sales person, saying I wanted something matte and clear for topcoating resin figures.

If you don't get it, I'd order ZM spray over Testors anytime. The spray is finer and it doesn't ghost on dark resin.

 

thanks :] Yeah I found another link on the thread earlier that is a silver/gray color with purity seal on it. So hopefully they have some

 

That looks like the same thing, just a different label to the UK one. I've used it more and more but as said before it does have a slight yellow tinge. I've started using Plasti kote matt sealer and I find that very good also. A bit cheaper than purity seal, same size can. But not swayed by price. I would say it is clearer than purity seal. The one thing with both these is that you need to wait a good 30 mins after spraying before continuing with colour. The longer you wait the better the tooth it has. Purity seal is very good for dark skins. I've just dyed a nappychoo and it has been good for that. No way as much ghosting as MSC.

Does anyone know what the shimmer power spray is called or where to get it?

 

O.o Ok... so it is yellow-tinted. I thought I was going nuts and starting to think my 3-year-old Cream White girl was starting to yellow, but it's only really obvious in certain lights - in sunlight she doesn't look yellowed, but it's kind of drastic in low light.

If you want to be sure you have the right stuff, check the part code on the back, near the bar-code: 13209999028

 

Yes, it certain lights. But if you take it off you'll see a difference. I wouldn't really say yellow, it's just a tinge, not totally clear. But it certainly doesn't make the doll yellow any more. In fact I'd say it protects very well as I took a faceup off today and I was surprised how , as new she looked underneath. This was a doll I'd done when she was new.

 

I don't know about ZM spray, but MSC yellows over time too, especially when you have many layers on. And that's using the UV cut. My little Rooney, who's about 3 years old now, was sprayed many times to protect his various patches of body blushing, and he's seeming quite yellow these days,but a removal of a scratch-width of the coating (accidentally - he occasionally thinks he's a bungee jumper--) showed he's still more white underneath.

 

I'm not too concerned with a yellow tinge. As long as my doll doesnt actually yellow I'm fine. Plus I'm getting a normal skin doll so it might not be as noticeable :]

 

Dear friends,

Thank you so much for such a great thread and tons of useful information! I'm so eager to try an alternative to Krylon I use!.. And I was so happy to discover that Purity Seal is in the same price range. And the store where they have it is just around the corner...

 

OMG YAY! For those of you in central, IL near Bloomington, I found a place that carries Games Workshop Purity Seal! It's called Gryfalia's Aerie It's easy enough to find online by googling it ^^ I'm getting some probably at the end of the month hopefully. But I wont be able to test it out until my doll ships from MoC but I'm not sure when that'll be exactly. I'll post here with what I think about it once I've had a chance to test it out

 

Yet thats what we have in Florida too, they seemed to focus more on warning you how harmful it can be to breath in, rather than focusing on the name of the product. It seriously is one GIGANTIC can wide warning label!!

 

i just tried the purity seal for the first time after reading this thread. i had done the faceup on my first lb girl and was dismayed by the "ghosting" when she was done . i've redone my girl using the purity seal and i think i may be switching over from msc for good! the faceup worked beautifully and no bubbling or ghosting (i was redoing some ns skinned dolls at the same time using msc and had to redo one of them 5x's because the msc bubbled on the last coat! ) so i tried the purity seal on one of my ns dolls too and love it. comparing it to a doll of the same company/skin tone sprayed with msc the purity seal faceup is much cleaner and more luminous. the colors are truer. the sheen from the metallic pastels doesn't disappear in one coat and the papery whiteness is gone. they are both matt, but the purity seal isn't as flat. (can you tell i love this stuff?)

as far as taking longer to dry than msc i can't speak to that. due to circumstances here i had to wait between 1 and 5 hours between coats anyway (on both purity and msc)

 

Regarding the different types of Purity Seal:
there are two as far as i know:
blue can with yellow label
silver/gray with yellow label.
There isn't much difference, just the diffuser is different, the blue can is just more dry than the silver can and also can make some white streaks, anyway after 20/15 minutes you can brush them off easily.
I'm using PS since almost a year now and none of my face up turned yellow if this can help

 

The two cans I have do not have "labels" really.... They are just the warning info on the can with the name of the product in the middle. The blue can I have says Games Workshop Purity seal in the middle of the U.S. safety info and the danger info with the pics. The white/silver one has Citadel Purity Seal written on it instead in the same spot.

 

LOL I use purity seal because its cheaper but I didnt notice that!

 

The Raven yeah the color of the can is just different, the silver one is the new version and the blue one is the old version that now is discontinued.
maddieredridinghood PS is not even cheaper but to me even better than MSC

 

Not sure if this may help but i've used Army painter and Purity Seal and everything went fine obviously if you use Purity seal as last coayt the colors will stay more vibrant, Army Painter tend to flat a bit colors,
Also i would like to mention that Army Painter and Purity Seal seems to be affected lesser by humidity then MSC, i never had frosty effects nor even on tanned dolls which i have many, with both sealent nor when was quite humid

 

Thank you for the information on Purity seal, I've been having trouble finding MSC here in Australia so an available alternative is greatly apreciated. Also nice that it works on tan resin ^^. Have a great day .

 

See i've been using mine, and first time worked fine, now its leaving shiny dots even when spraying from a distance. Does it disappear once i do another coat on it? asking before i do it so if i have to remove this stuff off again.

 

I wanted to pop in and share some photos of work done in Purity Seal. I visited this thread first more than a year ago and in 2013 I began to use Purity Seal for much of my work.






I think it's important to remember that with all Sealants experiences vary person-to-person, as the way your sealant works is largely going to have to do with your practice of application and weather conditions along with the properties of the particular sealant you're using.

Here are some quick things I'll throw out there in terms of Purity Seal vs MSC:
Overall I find it is less likely that a can of Purity Seal malfunctions for me during use, including clogging and nozzle detaching problems
Purity Seal is way cheaper by volume
For me Purity Seal can become very gritty or too opaque (lightening colors) IF sprayed in conditions that are much too humid -- in medium humidity I prefer MSC because I like the finer texture I get, in high humidity I find that Purity Seal still preforms whereas MSC would flake off in the same conditions.
Purity Seal (if used in appropriate weather) really is amazing for working on darker resins, and I would recommend nothing else.
Something about the extra texture I experience with Purity Seal makes it take watercolor pigment almost exactly like watercolor paper -- making this sealant very excellent for bloody effects (and any other watercolor painting) on dolls -- very excellent movement of paint and preservation of watermarks.
The difference in texture in my own personal experience makes Purity Seal more difficult for blending work if you are using soft pastels for your face-up. I am able to do my blending much more quickly and smoothly when working with MSC for some reason.

These are just a few of my own random observations having used both sealants in all sorts of conditions for different styles of work on different dolls.

 

however i still choose MSC the best for now

 

I'm glad I happened to click on this thread, I'm even more glad that it was bumped up otherwise I may have never come across it!


Thank you everyone for all the information posted in here, I am going to have to look into getting some of this stuff for when I get my boy and have to blush his limbs.

@AlisonVonderland :: Those are some beautiful faceups!

 

oh good to know! I just moved to the UK and was wondering where to get face sealants.

 

Thanks DamonGrey and while Purity Seal is not my personal favorite right now I have felt differently about it in the past (heh, maybe I will be in love again when the weather changes -- it's been a very humid summer) -- I just think that Purity Seal deserves to be known about and experimented with because it is a good product to use on your dolls -- not just an alternative. I think that all sealants have strengths and weaknesses and anyone who likes to do their own work on their dolls should experiment with different products known to be safe on resin, because you never know which sealant will be your favorite. And that being said, Purity Seal is 100% resin doll safe, just like the ones you may hear about more, MSC, and Volks' ZM., therefore I think everybody should be trying it out.

Oh, and I see that sherbet was asking about shimmer for face-ups and that nobody has answered you! Dearly hoping you will see this reply eventually I highly recommend using this product:


Pearl EX Pigment Powder! I use it in all of my face-ups in the very final layers -- brushing it on and then sealing over until the level of sparkliness I desire is present. It can be used in a subtle way all-over the face, or concentrated in areas (like on the eyelids) it can also be mixed into your acrylic gloss for use as a sparkly lip gloss on your dolls! It's not spray on, and I'm not sure if such a thing exists for resin dolls but this stuff will get you the look you desire, and they make it in pretty much every color known to man which is really great for complimenting the complexion on your dolls!

 

I am very glad this was bumped up, as I was nearly ready to buy some MSC for a very silly price. And knowing that my Mr and some of my friends have also used Purity Seal before helped me to no end. Now, to get some and have a go as soon as is possible.

 

i'm using purity seal exclusively now. i switched 'cause i was doing a lot of tan work and i really like the lack of ghosting, but i'm glad i tried it 'cause it is now impossible to find msc in my area. the only problem i have with it is the texture is slightly grainier so it is harder to get fine lashes uses watercolor pencils on the tinies, but i'm learning to work around that. overall i'm happy with it and content with the switch, and while i'm not a pro i do several faceups a month on my own crew.

 

awesome sauce my life just got easier

 

Auntbear -- I was just stopping by this thread to give some advice on the topic of grainy-ness in Purity Seal, as I think I have found a method that significantly improves the finished texture in my most recent experiements.

I wanted to do a face-up on one of my dolls this week, and humidity was at 90% outside, I decided to proceed, as the worst that has every happened to me in these conditions with PS is this grainy texture. This time, after each layer of sealant I applied hot air to the head (at a distance of 6-8 inches) with a blowdrier for 1-2 minutes. Let the head sit for an additional 2 minutes, then continued to work. I have to say that this seemed to reduce the grain on this face-up significantly. In the same level of humidity without using the blowdrier I could have expected 3x the texture on this head. In the end the finish was quite smooth, definitely no worse than MSC would have been in the same conditions. I hope that this can be encouraging to anybody who has experienced these same problems. Now that I've finally figured this trick out I have to say I will not be eager to use MSC instead anytime in the near future.

Here was the face-up with the blowdrier test:

 

wow, that's a great tip. it would really make life easier if i didnt have to wait for only low humidity days! i wonder if that would make the grain finer all the time? looks like i'll be doing some experimenting too when i get my new paintbooth.

 

Auntbear I feel relatively confident it will make for less grain all of the time. Basically, working in 90% humidity with the blow-drier used after sealing, the faces were still a bit less grainy than Purity Seal is on a good day. I have also found that to some extent, extra grain can be brushed off of the face (or whatever doll part) after the sealant dries. But not all of it, even doing this I was still getting a lot of texture, so this new method is a huge improvement. I hope your experiments go well!

 

It usually only gets grainy on me if I spray too much.
Otherwise it just has a toothy texture.

Anyway, is what they are selling as "Citadel Colour Matte Varnish" just a different name for Purity Seal?
It seems like every time I try to buy this stuff they call it something else. o__o

 

I'm not sure about the website... I looked at it too and that's what it said. I actually bought mine at a local game shop that carries citadel paints and purity seal. It might be worth it to look around your area. If you do buy it online you might not get the right kind. The cans definitely say purity seal on them. The old can is blue with "games workshop purity seal" written on it. The newer ones are white/silver and say "citadel purity seal". Both have clear caps. So make sure that if you order online to check the can for either of those things before using it. I think you might still be able to get the blue can although I've been told it was discontinued for the U.S. I do believe it's still available like that in other countries though.

 

I used to have a store around here, but they closed. There's not a super big Warhammer following in the area, so it was the only one. Dx

 

Kielin -- unfortunately I believe the problem is that you can only buy it in the real-life store, and that it is not available through their website.

Also, yes, you are right, a lot of spray leads to grainyness, but this is made worse in humidity for myself -- and the problem is mostly that if I have to put down many layers during the course of my work the fine grit builds up and leads to too much grain. But as I mentioned before, in less than perfect weather, the blow drier helps significantly.

 

Bum. D:

I spray mine in my studio. So weather doesn't usually affect it.