Basic Doll Maintenance Primer [yellowing, stringing, cleaning, sueding]

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Basic Doll Maintenance Primer [yellowing, stringing, cleaning, sueding]

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Yellowing

What is yellowing? How does it happen?

All BJDs will eventually start to yellow. Direct sunlight, indirect sunlight, indoor lights, and age can all affect dolls and contribute to the yellowing process. You can see this in non-BJD cases, like how patio furniture fades from sun exposure and time. Yellowing occurs because of oxidation. Oxidation causes color pigments in resin to break down and fade. The red pigments fade faster than other colors do. So this makes the yellow colors last longer, and look darker in comparison. So, very old dolls may look very, very yellow. Sunlight, indoor lights, and specifically Ultraviolet rays cause the red pigments to break down even faster.
Dolls can sometimes yellow un-evenly. If a doll has clothing covering some of them, those areas will not yellow as fast as uncovered areas.
Each resin type, color, and brand will respond slightly differently to yellowing.
Effects of direct sunlight on resin

 

White skin dolls:
Yellowing on WS dolls may be the most noticeable, because the resin's original color starts off very pale. Some WS dolls may end up 'greening' - this is when enough pigments break down, so that the greenish colors are all that is left. This makes the doll look noticeably green. A few very old batches of Luts Cerberus Project dolls are well-known for their 'beauty green' color.

Normal skin dolls:
Many NS dolls have a pinkish color. You might not notice yellowing right away on these types. Also, some NS dolls are more yellow-toned to begin with, so it may take even longer to notice.

Tan dolls:
Tan dolls can also green, since most tan colors have a reddish color. Marbling is also possible. Iplehouse and a few other companies once had an issue with unstable red pigments in some very old batches. This caused a very strange greening on some of their tans. But this is an old issue, and does not seem to happen any more.

Other colors:
Fantasy colors and transparent resin can yellow too. A blue doll may turn green; a red doll may turn orange, a green doll may turn a more yellow shade of green, and purple may turn a kind of brownish-purple. Marbling is also possible.
Many transparent resins (usually found with various fantasy parts) are semi-to-completely clear - these may cloud, in addition to yellowing.

French resin:
French resin dolls are more translucent than normal resin. This causes yellowing to happen faster, and the yellowing can seep further into the resin. For these reasons, it is more difficult to try to remove it. Many old French resin dolls are an extreme yellow color; some people have called them lemon-yellow, butterscotch, or vanilla pudding-colored.

 

While no one can ever avoid yellowing completely, there are some steps you can take to slow the process.


Keep your dolls out of direct sunlight. A small amount of direct sunlight every now and again will not immediately yellow a doll, so you can still take them outside for outdoor photoshoots or meetups without too much worry, as long as you do not leave them to sit in the sun for hours.
You can dress your dolls in long-sleeved clothing only, always wearing shoes or socks.
You can keep curtains pulled to avoid light shining directly through windows onto dolls, or keep them in a room without windows. Some people store dolls in dresser drawers, closets, their original boxes, or other opaque storage containers to keep sunlight out.

Use a UV resistant resin sealant. Two kinds of these are MSC (Mr. Super Clear) UV-cut, or ZM (Zoukeimura) Finishing Powder Spray UV-cut. They block the UV rays from penetrating the resin. Sometimes sealants can also yellow. When this happens, you can remove the sealant and faceup, and the resin underneath should not have yellowed.

Keep dolls away from cigarette smoke. Cigarette smoke will severely yellow and stain a doll, as well as their wigs and clothing.

 

Removing yellowing:
The only definitive way to remove yellowing is to sand the yellow away. You can use high-grit sandpapers to remove the top layer of yellowed resin. This will show the non-yellowed resin underneath. This is not as effective on French resin. Since yellowing can seep further into French resin, you would need to sand much more material away, and damage the structure of the doll in the process.
You can also cover up yellowing by strategic blushing and painting.

Some yellowing may just be built up dirt on your doll. You can always start by giving your doll a thorough cleaning before trying any heavy-duty cleaning products or sanding.

A dye bath to restore red pigments can also work very well. This works by add red pigments back into the resin.

Other options have been tested, with varying results:
Denture tablets (does not seem to work)
Scrubbing or soaking using some kind of Oxy detergent (like Oxyclean)
Scrubbing with whitening toothpaste
Scrubbing with baking soda and hydrogen peroxide (not always effective)
Soaking in alcohol
Soaking in hydrogen peroxide (the general first-aid type)

You can try any combination of soaks; hydrogen peroxide and alcohol and baking soda, alcohol and baking soda, etc. These seem to be more effective on French resin. Always test your solution for negative reactions first, and make sure to properly clean off all parts after any soaking to avoid any other staining.

Do not use bleach.

Tutorial on restoring red pigment through light dye bath

 

Stringing

All BJDs have a length of elastic cording inside them to hold their parts together. One loop stretches from wrist to wrist, passing through all arm pieces, crossing horizontally through the torso. One large loop goes from the ankle, though the leg parts, vertically up through the torso, then back down through the opposite side of the torso and opposite leg parts, to the opposite ankle. Or alternatively, two separate loops can be used for legs and torso, one loop for each side. A large s-hook is needed atop the neck, to keep the elastic in place (as well as to attach the head). The remainder of the pieces are held together by s-hooks or resin hooks sculpted into the feet and hands, which attach to the ends of the elastic loops. This maintains the elastic's tension and keeps it from snapping back inside the doll.

You may need to restring a doll if the elastic is too loose or too tight. You can re-tie the knots to make them longer or shorter. You may need all new elastic if your current elastic is not stretchy anymore. Age, too-tight stringing, and high humidity can all cause elastic to lose its tension.
A quick fix for tight elastic is to leave your doll bent and folded over to stretch the elastic out. This may loosen the elastic to a good level. Too-tight elastic will wear out more quickly, and may damage your doll (including cracks and chips, and even warping). Keeping your doll strung at a good tightness will help with posing, and avoid a floppy, 'kicky,' or 'snappy' doll.
All tightness is relative to an owner's personal choice.

 

The type of elastic you need for dolls is a round cord. It should have a good amount of spring, but not be too stretchy. If it is too stretchy, it will stretch too much while inside the doll. Flat elastics will not work. Different doll sizes use different elastic sizes. The different sizes refer to the diameter of the string, or how thick it is. Many doll companies and shops have elastic available. You may also be able to find something acceptable at craft or cloth stores as well. Just make sure to look for the proper style and size. Different brands may have different qualities. For instance, Bobobie string is very stretchy, but Volks brand is much tighter. Again, what kind you like to use is up to you.
Smaller elastics are for smaller dolls, and larger elastics are for larger dolls. Larger dolls need the higher tension of larger elastic to support the weight of of their heavier pieces. You can use smaller elastic on a big doll, but it may stretch out faster. A good rule of thumb is: as long as the size you are using can fit through the parts, there should be no problems.

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You should be able to follow these sizes:
1.5mm for smaller than 26cm
2mm for 26cm
3mm for 26cm and 45cm
3.5mm for 45cm and some 60cm
4mm for some 60cm
5mm for larger than 60cm (some 70cm or EID-style dolls)

coolcat's chart of some specific dolls and the elastic size they need

 

You can purchase elastic from various doll companies and dealers - Alice's Collections, CoolCat, Dollmore, and Mint on Card are just a few.

You can purchase re-stringing tools through doll companies and some shops (like Volks, Luts, and Dollmore). There are also many household objects you can use.

For pulling elastic through parts:
Hemp twine, a long crochet needle, pipe cleaners (for smaller dolls), plastic coated garden (floral) wire, ribbons, stiff string, shoe laces, wire hangers (cut and bent to the correct size), yarn.

To hold elastic in place:
Chop sticks, hemostats (clamps), pens, pencils

Other things may work, but are not recommended:
Paper clips (too small, pointed sharp ends may stab you)
Dental floss (too thin, may cut you)
Weed-whacker (edger) cord (too thick and inflexible)

Getting the correct length when replacing elastic: (with thanks to twigling)
Make a double-loop. Lay/hold it from the top of the neck to the knee-joint, without stretching it. Make the loop bigger or smaller to get the right length. Add 4 inches for the knot. Similar for the arms: make one loop and hold it from elbow to elbow across the chest without stretching it, and add 4 inches for the knot.

Getting elastic through parts:
Put a piece of pulling material through a tied loop of elastic. Put the material's end pieces through the limb part, grab onto the material from the other side and pull it through, then pull the elastic through.

Restringing tutorials:
Youtube video restringing tutorial
Ribbon threading technique tutorial
Dream of Child restringing tutorial
Pulling tool tutorial
Soom's restringing tutorial
Soom Teenie Gem centaur restringing tutorial
Angelregion stringing booklet

 

Sueding

Sueding is a customization where you apply a material inside the joints of a doll to help with posing. Normal resin is smooth, and has no grip between the parts. Sueding adds some grip, so the parts will not slide around.

Materials for sueding:
Low-temperature hot glue gun and low temperature hot glue
Light colored suede
Light colored pliver (also known as skiver); pliver is a very thin leather scrap left over from other projects, or a very thin lambskin.
Silicone disks

What not to use:
Silicone glue; does not stick well to other materials
High-temperature hot glue gun and high-temperature hot glue - dangerous - too hot for resin and skin
Craft or tacky glue; does not have enough grip to work well

 

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Product: Hot glue gun and glue
Where to buy it: Craft stores, art stores, some department-style stores
Correct usage: Clean out the sockets, then let them dry. You do not need to unstring your doll, but it may be helpful. But you can simply pull the pieces apart and hold them in place. You just have to hold it long enough to apply the glue. Squeeze a little hot glue in the socket. Be careful to not cover the string hole, or get glue on any elastic. Use your finger to smooth the glue over the whole socket. Even with a low-temp gun and glue, the glue will still be very hot. You may need to wait a second or two for it to cool enough to touch. But if the glue is too cool, it will not spread smoothly. You can use a cup of water to dip your fingers in, to avoid burning and help you spread the glue faster. You can also use plain paper or thin gloves. Hot glue should peel off easily when you need to remove or replace it, so you can re-apply it right away if you mess something up. Hot glue must cool and harden a little bit before you move any joints. You may need to let your doll sit for a while so the glue can fully set.
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Do not use a high-temp glue gun. The higher temperatures of this type will burn you, and may melt resin, or the glue can even bond right to the resin. If you leave your doll fully strung while hot glue sueding, the elastic or s-hooks may cause chips or dents in wrist or ankle sockets if you are not careful. If you apply the glue too thickly, the ball will not fit inside the socket anymore. If you apply the glue too thinly, it may peel off or not have enough grip.
Some down sides to hot glue sueding - it may dry and pop off or peel off on its own, and may attract dirt.

Sueding tutorial (with hot glue)

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Product: Suede/pliver
Where to buy it: Craft and art stores, specialty leather shops
Correct usage: Clean out all sockets and let them dry. Cut small pieces of suede or pliver to fit in each socket. Use a white craft glue (like Aleene's Tacky Glue or Elmer's glue), or a specific leather glue to glue them in place. Glue the smoother side to the inside of the socket. The rougher 'nap' side will have better grip with the ball joint. White glue can dry slowly, so it is better to unstring your doll for the process. Be sure to let the glue dry thoroughly before restringing and moving the joints. The suede/pliver may slip around if the glue is still too wet.
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Too much glue may make the sueding lumpy. Not enough glue may make the sueding fall off. Too-big pieces of suede will stick out and be visible between the joints. Too-small pieces may not have enough grip. Dark colors of suede or pliver may stain resin.
Suede or pliver sueding is more time-consuming than hot glue sueding.

Suedeing tutorial (with suede)

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Product: Silicone disks/'KIPS'
Where to buy it: Though various doll companies. May also be available at art/craft stores, hardware stores.
Correct usage: These pieces of silicone are made to fit between each part of your doll. They have the same result as hot glue or suede. They come in various sizes, so they can fit in all doll sizes. You just need to purchase the correct size for your doll. You do have to completely restring the doll to get them on. The disks need to be between each part you want to suede. You could cut them so they can just slide in place between the parts, but they may fall out much more easily. You can also attempt to glue them in place, but they will not stick to glue very well..
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: KIPS can often get 'sucked' into a doll, like an upper-torso piece at the shoulder, or up into the hip part. You just have to pull them back into the correct location to fix it. Using too-small KIPS will make this happen more frequently. On the other hand, using too-big pieces will cause extra silicone to stick out. They may also be too thick to fit between the pieces.
Brands to look for: coolcat, Luts, Volks
You can also make your own KIPS from sheets of silicone. Make sure you have an acceptable thickness, measure the sockets, then cut round pieces from the sheet. Cut holes from the middle, and use like regular KIPS.

Some notes on all types of sueding:
It may be more difficult to suede smaller dolls due to the much smaller size of their joints. Every type of sueding (including KIPS) can still be done, it may just take a little more work to complete.
If you have any 'cup'-type pieces anywhere on your doll, treat the cup as a joint as well.

 

Cleaning

General materials:
Cotton balls or pads
Cotton swabs (Q-Tips)
Tissues
Paper Towels – do not use paper towels with a print, the dyes may leech onto resin.
Soft cloths - use old rags or washcloths.
Mild liquid dish washing soap like Dawn – do not use shower gels or hand washing soaps with extra oils or skin conditioners.
Gloves - Neoprene, natural latex, or natural rubber gloves - these are the best options that will not react negatively to solvents.

Light cleaning:
Wet cloth - Get a cloth damp then wipe parts down. Dry with a dry cloth, or leave to air dry.
Mild soap - Apply to wet cloth and clean parts. Rinse in warm water, then dry with a dry cloth, or leave to air dry. Alternatively, add soap to a bowl of warm water, submerge unstrung parts and wash with your hands or a cloth. Rinse in warm water, then dry with a dry cloth, or leave to air dry.
Magic Eraser - Get the eraser wet, then lightly scrub part in a circular motion. Heavy scrubbing may remove sealant and faceup/blushing, and may leave very small scratches on resin. Magic erasers are effective for removing light stains left from clothes, and very light scrubbing can remove wig stains from heads if you are careful.

 

Staining

Sometimes a doll may become stained, from faceup or body blushing materials, or from contact with an item of clothing where the fabric dye has not set properly.

The best defense against stains is to try to avoid getting them in the first place. You can remove some unset dye in clothing items by washing them by hand with dish detergent and water, or put them in a washing machine in a delicate garments bag, on your machine's delicates setting. You can also do a white vinegar/water rinse (1 part vinegar/2 parts water, or a 50/50 solution) to fix any dye that is not properly set.
You can also purchase body suits for your doll to wear underneath clothing, which adds a protective layer between your doll and stain-prone clothing.

In order to remove stains, first attempt cleaning with soap and water. If this does not remove the stains, move on to stronger products. You can use a magic eraser to try to buff them out, rubbing alcohol or other solvent to clean them off, and then if those techniques do not work, sanding will remove staining.

 

SAFETY FIRST: Only ever use one type of solvent at a time. Wash and dry the doll before you switch solvents. Work in a well ventilated area and protect your clothing, skin, eyes and lungs with appropriate safety gear.

Heavy cleaning:
(Many thanks to whitewings for compiling the following information on solvents)

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Product: Pure acetone
Where to buy it: Hardware stores and some beauty supply stores sell 100% pure acetone.
Correct usage: Applied using multiple cleaning pads/cotton cloths. Gently wipe resin with wet pad. Do not apply using a Magic Eraser. Acetone in its purest form evaporates quickly. When used correctly, it may be one of the most efficient and safest ways to strip a doll of sealant, as it leaves no chemical residues. Be sure to check for reactions to the pigment in the resin first.
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Damage usually occurs if you've left a part soaking in acetone. Acetone will soften resin. Using force on resin that is soft can cause gouges, tears, dents, pitting, abrasions, and even melting. Color changes can occur with some color/tan pigmented resins. As with all solvents, color fastness tests always should be done. If you suspect your resin has been softened while cleaning - leave it for a while (overnight is best) to re-harden before resuming any work.
Acetone and Magic Eraser sponges together: when you take the super abrasive fibers of a melamine sponge, and combine with pure acetone, you run a possible risk of causing micro-abrasions on your skin. You can then burn yourself through these abrasions with the acetone. The acetone will not melt the sponge, and the sponge will not enhance or detract from the effectiveness of acetone.

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Product: Non-acetone nail polish remover
Where to buy: Pharmacies, drug stores, supermarkets, beauty salons
Correct usage: Use sparingly with your choice of pads, brushes, q-tips (cotton swabs), sponges etc. Gently wipe resin with wet pad. Requires soapy wash and clean water rinsing. Non-acetone nail polish remover can leave a residue which makes it harder for new sealant to stick. Always use a near-colorless kind of nail polish remover (pale pinks/ light purples or clear are the better options), and one that it is oil-free.
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Using nail polish remover with oils or vivid colors can damage the resin by staining. Avoid red tints and bright blue tints. Excessive soaking has the same effect as pure acetone. Using nail polish remover is not an exact science as all brands use different chemicals. Always check the contents and avoid anything that contains: oils, hardeners, aloe vera, essential oils, fragrance, Yellow #5 and Red #3. Some darker/colored pigments may be adversely affected; this is company specific.
Brands to look for: Rite-Aid, Sephora, Cutex (check these for oil content), Polish-Off, Mavala*, Supernail (only use white one), Sally Hanson (Do not use 'oily' type or 'strengthening' type), LaFemme, Manicare.
*Do not use Malvala's Dissolvant Crystal eco-friendly nail polish remover. Members report that it leaves a sticky residue, and an un-removable film on resin after use.

When in doubt, check the ingredients list. Some that are still OK:
Denatonium benzoate is a chemical flavor added to products used in and around the home. It is used in very, very small amounts, and triggers the human gag reflex. This makes sure that no-one accidentally swallows something deadly. It will not hurt resin, but it can leave residue on your skin. If you use a product containing denatonium benzoate, wash your hands well afterward, or it may linger, and you may taste it while eating, or even if you just put your fingers in your mouth.

Theoretically dangerous:
Triclosan is an anti-bacterial additive that can be added into soaps. While it used to be added into a lot of things, some studies over the past few years have shown negative results of long-term use of triclosan, so many manufacturers have removed it from their products. It can still be found in some things, so you may choose to avoid products that contain it if you are concerned about health risks.

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Product: Isopropyl Alcohol 70-99%
Where to buy: Drug stores, pharmacies, supermarkets
Correct usage: Apply generously with your choice of sponges, cotton pads, and other clean applicators. Gently wipe resin with wet pad. Requires several applications with clean pads to be totally effective. Wash in soapy water and rinse to remove chemical residue. Alcohol should not affect resin pigments. Wearing gloves is suggested, as rubbing alcohol is easily absorbed by your skin. May be the best option for first-time users. If you're a little unsure or lacking in confidence, there is less possible damage if you mess something up when using alcohol. Lower strength percentages increase the time it takes to clean something, but it may still be possible.
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: It is difficult to damage a doll with alcohol, but repeated excessive use over an extended period of time could cause the resin to become brittle. Allow any (short-term) softening of your doll's resin time to re-harden before you attempt any work on the doll. If not enough alcohol is used, you can risk smearing paints or pastels over unsealed resin, and possibly stain something, so one should clean thoroughly and quickly.
Brands to look for: Walgreens Apothecary (91%), Swan Brand (99%), AAPER (industrial brand 99.5%), Spiritline (97%), Proctor & Gamble (98%), Helmar's (99.7%)
Some rubbing/sports alcohol (like Isocol), are 70% and lower. While these will remove sealants, it takes much more time and effort. However, it can still be effective – just be sure to check the “cosmetic” branded alcohols for any non-resin friendly products like colors or oil based fragrances.

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Product: Solvent Based Brush Cleaner/Thinners
Where to buy: Art supply stores, hobby shops, some hardware stores
Correct usage: Apply to cleaning pads or cloths and wipe resin. Be certain to wash with soapy water and rise well in clean water. Be certain to clearly read the labels – any thinner with oil as an ingredient is definitely not suitable. Look for thinners with "solvents" such as ethanol (alcohol). Same with brush-cleaners; be certain to use only acrylic paint products.
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Do not leave your doll parts unwashed after using this type of cleaner. Most brush cleaners contain preservatives and conditioners specifically for prolonging brush life. If left on the resin for an extended periods, it can cause discoloration, uneven resin color, uneven resin texture, surface pitting, and stickiness. Avoid anything containing organic oils or "linseed" as you risk staining. Some have reported a sticky surface after using repeatedly.
Brands to look for: BrushPlus, Winsor & Newton, Aunt Martha's, Tamiya Brand, Mr Color Thinner

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Product: Magic Eraser Sponges
Where to buy: Safeway, Coles, Woolworths, Overwaites, Walmart, Michaels, or any store that stocks household cleaning products
Correct Usage: Use a bowl of clean water and scrub. Magic erasers will remove simple surface dirt, and it can (with a bit of work) also remove the bulk of a face-up. Its only drawback is, it is difficult to get into tight spaces and it will not remove all of a face-up. However, it can cut down on the use of chemicals in the removal process. After removing the bulk of the face-up with a magic eraser, you can use a q-tip to remove the remaining paint with a solvent.
Incorrect Usage/Possible Damage:
Do not scrub bare resin with a sponge too hard. Magic erases sponges are effectively an abrasive, so you may end up sanding and/or scratching the material.
Do not combine the sponge with any chemical solvents - they were not intended for this purpose and you may just be wasting money. If you are using a chemical solvent, use a regular sponge altogether.
You can also injure yourself if incorrectly used. As it is an abrasive sponge, using it with a chemical solvent in place of plain water can lead to abrasions and "burns" on your hands as well as other unpleasant reactions between the melamine and the solvent.
Brands to look for: Scotchbrite, Chux, Mr. Clean, Britex, Scrub-It, Genuine Joe, etc.

NEVER USE THE FOLLOWING:
Goo-Gone/Mr Orange/orange oil/citrus stain removers: These products are made from a turpentine-based chemical. These and the added citrus oils will damage resin.
Kerosene/Turpentine: Both are oil based and can permanently stain resin with oily splotches. It will also leave an odor that is difficult to remove.

Tutorials:
meenist's cleaning tutorial (video)
RobbinA's cleaning tutorial

 

TROUBLESHOOTING:
If you notice white patches on your doll's resin after cleaning, don't panic! This usually only means that there is some partially dissolved sealant still left on your doll's head that should come off with a little more scrubbing.