Tutorial Tacky Glue Sueding Tutorial (lots of large pictures!)

Hello!

I've had several discussions with people about sueding and it seems a lot of people think hot glue sueding is their only option. I've tried hot glue sueding and don't care for it, thats strictly MY personal opinion.

However, using tacky glue and lambskin suede I have had nothing but wonderful results.

Another thing that pops up in these discussions is they don't know really where to start. They don't know much about suede and are afriad they'll mess everything up from the start. Well, tacky glue sueding is super easy and so is working with suede.

So here is my step by step tutorial on how to suede up one's doll in a nice easy manner.

Starting off is what I use/what you will need.

Scissors
Tacky glue (I use Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue, you can find this at stores like Walmart or Micheals or Hobby Lobby)
Suede (I use lambskin suede I get from this Ebay seller. Its not the same as pliver as pliver is thinner)



And ofcourse the doll your going to suede. Today, Neo is the one getting sueded.



Ok, lets get started! *warning for the sensitive, doll nudity ahead*

First off your going to unstring your doll and carefully lay it out. This is also a good time to give your doll a quick cleaning if you haven't done so in awhile. Its a good idea to wipe the ball sockets clean to keep dust or anything else from mixing with the glue.



Now, about the suede.
Below is a very close picture of the two sides of suede. The top is the 'rough side' and the bottom is the 'smooth side'.
Always glue the 'smooth side' down.



Now when I suede, I start with the biggest sections and work to the smallest ones. This is because I usually use the scrapes from cutting the larger sections down to fit for the smaller section like the wrists (you'll see). But its always a good idea to lay your scrapes off to the side in a pile, you never know when you need a small piece for fit here or there.

I start with the chest joint.
Sueding this will help with posing and stop resin from rubbing and leaving marks and also helps to stop some from doing that fun pitch back motion.
I start with a large square, cut in half diagonally, giving you two triangles, cut triangles to fit sides.



Once cut to fit, smear pleanty of glue on resin.



Place your suede in smooth side to the glue and press gently into place. Make sure all the edges are glued down, if not, gently lift edge and put down more glue.



Do the same with the other side and I used left over scrapes to fill in the middle. I don't go for professional look as much as I want function.



Now on to the shoulder joint.

Your going to eye the size of the joint socket and cut a square of similar size. Cut that square into a circle.



Place the circle over the shoulder joint socket.



And push gently into the socket, like so.




Continued in next post

 

Now the parts that are bubbling inward need to be cut. So try to remember where the bubbling is and cut a wedge out, like this.



Now, push back into socket and see what you have to work with.



I usually cut anywhere from 2 - 4 wedges into shoulder socket joints. Just take your time and keep repeating and cutting alittle into the wedges until you get a good fit.



Now, once you have a good fit, you need to cut a hole for the string.



Its ok if doing so leaves you with 2-4 pieces, it'll fit. To insure a good fit, I like to make small cuts to the inside of the suede circle, you don't need to cut wedges but small straight cuts, like this.



Next, smear glue into the socket jont and lay the suede down and gently press into place. The cuts and the wedges will allow you to place it exactally where you want it.



On to the hip socket.
These are much larger versions of the shoulder socket, so really same rules.
Cut a square of suede, cut it into a large circle and press into socket joint.





Using the same method as the shoulder, start cutting wedges inthe suede for fit.





Same for the neck socket.



On the knee, ankle, elbow, and wrist areas I like to leave a space for the left/right indicator. On DOD, its a dot for one side and 2 dots for the other. You'll see below what I mean.




Continued in next post

 

Now, for the knee joints I tend to use scrapes from the large areas.
I like to start out with triangles and round them to fit, like so.



Leaving the dot visable.



Elbows are the same.
I start with left over triangle pieces and round them to fit.



On wrists and ankle joints, I take a long thin strip of suede, make small straight cuts into one side of it, cut to length. Smear glue over wrist/ankle area and slowly work it in to fit.



At this point, your doll is all sueded up.
I like to lay my doll on a shelf or some place I know he won't be bothered and let him dry for a good 5-6 hours.



After 5-6 hours, the glue is half way or more dry. Carefully restring your doll, looser is fine, don't go super tight, just go for a snug stringing. If you need to you can always tighten later.
Then lay your doll out straight, arms at sides, legs straight out. Like this.





Leave your doll like this either over night or for another 5-6 hours. This helps set the joints, the glue, and the suede.

After that, pick your doll up, tighten string if need be, dress, and your doll should be much more posable.

I hope this helps and provides either an alternative to hot glue or gives ideas to create your own way of sueding.

If you have questions, let me know, I'll do my best to answer.

 

Hello and welcome to the forum
Sueding is actually just that, you use suede to coat the socket joints so theres some friction or catch for the ball joint. Sueding is in no way, shape or form a must. There are lots out there that don't suede their dolls.
Some use kips, which are plastic or silicone disks you place in the doll that aid in keeping the string in place, helping do what sueding does.
Also there's another method using some kind of silicone gel, smearing that on the socket joints to create the friction but I haven't used that nor have I done much research on it.
What happens if you don't suede? Nothing. The Ball and socket joints are generally smooth so you don't have to worry about anything. Sueding mainly aids in posing. If you have your doll and find it poses or sits or stands how you like without suede then thats great! Sueding is purely a personal preference.
I hope that helps!

 

Oh, I've let responding to any questions on here slip!

As kobbi said, its water soluble. I haven't had any problems removing the glue, it usually will come off in one piece if you get a cornor up and peel it back. And if any is left, a quick wipe and your good to go!

And I am soo glad to hear this post is helping some to take this on themselves. I hope everyone's sueding experience is easy going.

 

Thank you! I'm also no good with hot glue guns....I think I lack technique....I just burn myself! XD

Do let me know if this works out for you!

 

I've not personally tried microsuede but that shouldn't stop you. Try it on a few joints and see how it goes. Certainly couldn't hurt to explore. Just be careful with colored/dyed microsuede as that can leave stains your doll.