Shopping Advice on acceptable pricing for doll

I recently just completed my first couple of sales here on DOA (I sold one doll on IG before that), so I'll pop in with my two cents/answers to your questions in order.

1. It depends! Most dolls don't really go up in value after they're bought. Sometimes, even fullset dolls don't retain their value, depending on what maker they're from. A Volks limited fullset is much likelier to retain or possibly increase it's value over a limited fullset from Gem of Doll, for instance. It doesn't make the Gem of Doll fullset any less pretty, or worth it's price, it's just a difference of maker name and what's more sought after.

2. Again, certain dolls or makers are more likely to go up in resale value than others. I'd say, try to find older sales posts to see what the trends were recently for that doll. Also, and this is true for just about any hobby, "rare" does NOT always mean "expensive". Rare, in the case of a lot of BJD's, especially older ones, may just mean they weren't popular and the company is now defunct, and because few were ever bought, they don't show up secondhand much. It doesn't really mean they're worth any more than a doll of the same quality/age/condition from a maker that IS more popular/easy to find.

3. Again, depends on the head. Event heads usually sell for cheap (Fairyland being the only real exception to this I can think of, but their dolls are almost always expensive secondhand) since they were essentially "free with purchase" or for reaching a certain order amount.

4. It's your sale post, you do what you want with it, though if you're really wanting to pass a doll along, taking down a post won't help any towards that goal. It's better to retake pictures to be clearer/better lit, and lower the price or be open to offers. I was able to sell a full doll and a head in like, less than 2-3 months, which is great for the secondhand market in this hobby, since neither of my dolls were particularly sought after. I lowered their prices and was open to offers and I'm happy to have moved them on since I don't have the space.

5. It's not rude, just let them know "Hey, sorry, I'm just not willing to split at this time, I'd like to find a buyer for the whole doll." If the doll doesn't move, you could always message them back later and see if they're still interested in whatever part they wanted. Hybrids are popular in this hobby, especially for those of us on a budget, we like to put more expensive heads on cheaper bodies, but it can be hard to get the heads by themselves. So, in my opinion, it IS a benefit to be open to splits, even if you won't get ALL the money you want in one go, it may be easier to sell the parts separate cause someone might have a floating head they need a body for or vice versa!

6. If a potential buyer has ghosted/left you on read for over 24-36 hours (they could briefly seen it at work, but didn't have time to respond), then it's likely they're backing out. Unfortunately, a lot of people hate confrontation, so they tend to just ghost sellers. It sucks, but it happens, and as someone with horrible anxiety, I at least understand where it comes from even if I don't approve of it, myself. You could always explain the situation to those others who were interested and let them know you're new to selling, if they're understanding and still looking to buy, you can still make the sale work!

7. I didn't have any feedback at all before selling a few months ago, I was just up front about it in my sales post and let the buyers know. Also, a common practice to prove you have the doll in your possession is to take a photo of the doll with the date hand-written on a note next to it or on it's lap. That way, a buyer knows you physically have the doll. If you're honest, there should be no worries. As far as personal info? The most a buyer needs is your PayPal/email linked to your PP account. Maybe an IG account to see more pictures of the doll from before you listed it, stuff like that. Anything more than that strikes me as odd and a bit of a red flag.

QUICK EDIT: Though this likely won't apply to most people, I'm transgender and the name on my PP is my legal name, while I use my chosen name in hobby spaces. I just let my buyers know this was the case, and they were both chill with it. So, in an instance like that, it makes sense to let them know.

8. Answered above!

9. My last bit of advice is to remember that this is a hobby, first and foremost. You'll likely NEVER get back a fraction of the money you put into your hobbies, no matter what they are, cause they're ultimately frivolous things we just happen to really enjoy and are willing to spend our extra cash on. I see so many dolls just linger on the secondhand market, sometimes for well over a year or even multiple years, and it seems like it's cause people want to get their entire investment back on something that was supposed to pay them back in joy. If I buy a doll to try out a size or sculpt aesthetic and it doesn't work out for me, I'm not gonna ask what I paid because I consider that the "hobby tax", I'M the one who wanted to give something new a try, and it didn't work out, so I'll take the hit so I can move the doll on to someone who will hopefully love it like I couldn't.

Sorry for the paragraphs, but hopefully there's some good info in there!

 

I mean, you can. You just sometimes have to deal with backlash

There is a lot of etiquette surrounding buying/selling, and some of that is heavily influenced by the community you sell in and where people are from. I have bought/sold in the BJD, Dollfie Dream and Blythe community...you'd think those would act all the same, but there have been nuanced differences that surprised me. Even stuff like "is it okay to ask for Paypal fees" is more accepted in one community than it is in another.
This is also true for how the general attitude is like in US/Europe based communities vs let's say Japan and China. I have been told more than once now by locals that asking for more than you paid is very frowned upon, even on something that has become more rare since then. Especially because they struggle a lot with people going to conventions just to buy the newest Soom limited for a wealthy client/to resell it online for a ridiculous markup. We are annoyed because we can only buy things through proxies, but imagine going to a convention and always being forced to fight with a bunch of dudes buying off all the stock while not even being in the hobby.
Also unlike here, where a certain markup is often begrudgingly accepted or to be expected, people over there do not shy away from putting you on blast when they feel your asking price is too high or unfair for any reason

Anyway, to get back to your questions. A lot of them unfortunately can only be answered with "It depends on X". There is no universal truth for a lot of those.
I will try to answer them though, mostly from the lens of the Western community.

Like said, how much is acceptable really depends on whom you are trying to sell to. It is probably better to ask yourself how much you can realistically ask while still actually selling your doll. Like you can ask 1000$ on that 250$ non limited doll, but people will raise their eyebrows and most importantly simply not buy.
But as a general rule of thumb/what most people seem to aim for:
- if the doll is new and still available, you ask what the current shop price for it is. If it's 500$, you ask for 500$. If it's 500$, but you overall paid 700$ with shipping and customs, you still only ask 500$. The doll itself is not worth more just because you paid for shipping/customs and had higher costs.
- if the doll is not new and still available, you ask for a less than it originally cost depending on its current state (like 450$ if it's barely used, or 200$ if it's really battered up)
- if the doll is not available anymore, how much you can ask while still finding a buyer is...completely dependent on how high the demand is. Some dolls are sought after so you can ask for more and it will still sell, some nobody cares for and even drastically reducing the price will most likely not make it move. It's best in such a case to look around whether the doll has recently been sold and if yes, for how much and in what state. Remember, when something is not moving, you can always reduce the price.

I mean, yeah of course it is price gouging, even if we might deem it acceptable (to a certain degree). How much we deem acceptable to tack onto an original price is completely made up. It's how rating in comics or video games work. Some company looks at it, decides it's a 9.5, and then people fall over their feet on bidding it up. When it sells for 5000$, suddenly a 9.5 means you get 5000$. There is no natural logic to it we can all agree on.
How acceptable it is depends completely on the viewer. Some think it's acceptable to pay 5000$ for a game in good condition in some plastic box labeled 9.5, others think it's ridiculous. Same with the dolls. Some think "yeah, that sounds fair for a doll of that rarity and state", and others will shake their head.
It's more a case of how comfortable you feel for asking the current going price, even if you know it's way higher than what you originally paid. If you feel comfortable and think it's okay to make a profit, go for it.

See first question. If the head is being sold separately blank, follow the tips there.
If the head is NOT available separately, but the body it is on is, you can calculate the price that way: Full doll is 500 - single body is 300 = ask 200 for the head.
In case of painted heads, the price completely depends on the type of face-up (default vs custom), who painted it (beginner vs experienced artist, popular artist, popular artist that doesn't offer commissions anymore) and design (a nice, standard natural face-up often sells better than something highly specific). Generally people prefer a) well painted heads and b) to make their own characters, which is why something more "basic" or even a blank head sells better.
Nobody wants to pay extra for a face-up they will have to wipe anyway.

Of course, why wouldn't it be? It's your post, you got the right to delete it at any time.

You can always refuse a sale, as long as it's not for a bigoted reason (and even then it's for the better, just to spare the buyer making business with you).
If possible, make it clear beforehand that you do not want to split/are only interested in selling the full doll. That way you avoid people contacting you for splits.

While the potential buyer was impolite, you shouldn't be. So ideally you write them another message once after you have another potential buyer and tell them to react within 24 hours, or else you will sell the doll to the other interested party. You inform the second potential buyer about this as well, i.e. that there is another interested party that asked first but that they do not react and that you have given them a deadline.
That way everyone is informed and can make a decision.
Honestly, just being honest and communicating with everyone involved solves 99% of those perceived problems about how one should behave

Usually people expect some kind of way they can verify you are safe to buy from. If you have feedback somewhere unrelated that can still prove you are reliable, like a general ebay account, that still works just fine!
If you cannot provide anything of that sort since you do not have a selling history yet, you can alternatively provide them with additional social media links/your full name and address/basically anything that would allow them to check whether you're a real person that can provide a believable and trustworthy online persona. As it is though, you just gotta have to hope people will be willing to give you the benefit of the doubt as a new seller.
Having good sales posts really help there. Posts with good and clear photos, that already mention everything needed show that you are honest and upfront about any flaws.

Yes, there is unfortunately always the possibility for that. It does not happen super often, I hope, but yes. As such it might be a good idea to add a piece of handwritten paper with your name to photos, or boldly watermark them.
You should also make sure not to provide photos of certificates without blurring out for example the end of a serial number. These photos are not only used to scam, but also to help recasters with references for copying paperwork.

 

A couple thoughts:
Checking the fs posts & the sold dolls graveyard for similar dolls can give you an idea of prices folks have asked for similar dolls. Some may have been high or low but usually give you a ballpark idea.
Any price you set depends on there being someone who wants it enough to pay. Also, charge according to how attached you are to the doll. If you're not sure if you really want to let it go then charge what you'd be willing to let it go for. On the other hand, if you really need it to go away, have a deadline, then lower the price but don't make it suspiciously low unless posting that your want it to go to a good home & are giving someone a great deal.
Its your post, so it stays up or comes down when you feel it needs to (unless there's an admin issue!). AND you can edit the post, or take it down, rewrite & repost if you decide to change any of the terms.
Splitting a doll depends on whether you're ready to deal with the possibility of only selling the head, or the body, that it won't be a financial burden to you. And there's a place on the sales post to state whether splits are accepted or not. Someone can still inquire but as Ara said, communicate, stay firm in how you want to deal with it & politely tell folks no if necessary.

As to feedback, I often look at the feedback for a seller if I'm considering buying from them. And if there's not a lot of feedback I will check their profile, & look at their participation in the other areas of DOA. Then, if they only show up in mp sales post I may back off on making an offer. A hand written note with the doll, or extra photos if requested for clearer details is ok but don't feel you need to provide a lot of personal information outside of what you have already happily shared here in the community as a participating member. And, as a seller, I've checked feedback & participation info on buyers as well if I wanted to be more confident that the transaction was going to proceed smoothly. ;}

Good luck!

 

Sorry I don't mean to tangent but I just wanted to say I absolutely love your last piece of advice here It's true that a lot of the time you'll end up losing money from the initial investment you made. For example face-ups and body blushing can cost a good amount but often aren't included in the resale value of the doll.

BUT yes you purchased this doll because it made you happy to see and happy to buy and have. Especially if it was a well loved doll that you had for a year or two that's years of enjoying this doll which is absolutely money well spent. Thank you for mentioning this because I hadn't thought of it this way previously but I really love this outlook!

 

I've been in the hobby for almost 15 years and have bought and sold for 13 of those, countless dolls have passed through my hands because I'm indecisive. So here are my own thoughts on your questions, though it's really one of those things that will vary a lot from person to person.

1. What is considered an acceptable range to price a doll for reselling if I want to let go of the doll?
This really depends on the doll. New dolls range in price from around 100 up into the thousands. If the doll is still available, I usually price it $10-50 under the new price, depending on the condition and if it has the box and CoA. If the doll is limited, discontinued, or from a defunct company, I usually price it around what I paid for it.

2. If the doll is limited of 1 to X amount, rare, or desirable then is it acceptable to sell it for a lot? Would it be considered price gouging? (Example: I saw a doll i wanted it was a lottery doll. It cost about $2000, but the resell value went up to $8000+.)
Again, depends. I think it's pretty greedy and selfish to buy a doll for the sole purpose of raising the price to resell. I think you should only be buying the doll because you want the doll, and if you don't want the doll, then let someone who actually does want it get it new! If you bought the doll because you really did want it, but over time you change your mind, I think it's ok to set the price a little higher (demand does raise the price on things), but again, I think making it four times what you paid is a bit much.

3. How should i price a blank head?
For about what it sold for new, unless it has damage or yellowing, then drop based on condition.

4. If my sale post is going nowhere is it alright to pull down the post?
Yes, but if you really want to sell it, I suggest dropping the price, including extras, or look at any other reason people might not be interested. Some dolls take months or even years to sell if there isn't a high demand for it.

5.If there were some people interested, but they want only parts of the doll would it be alright to refuse to sell for the time being? (I'm scared of coming off as rude.)
Absolutely. You have every right not to split your doll. Just be polite when rejecting the offer. I usually say something like "I appreciate your interest, but I'm currently not ready to consider splits."

5. If the potential customer saw the dm, but hasn't responded is it safe to assume the buyer isn't interested? (I made some potential buyers wait because I was waiting for the person who seemed interested to dm me back. It's been a long time. I think i might have come off as rude to some other potential buyers because of this, so I am very afraid to do anything or respond to anyone on the sale. I would like to pull the post down until I learn more on selling. I was too hasty.)
This is the one thing that irritates me the most about selling! Drives me crazy! I list in my sales thread that I won't hold a doll longer than 24 hours after my last reply. At that point, if somebody else contacts me ready to buy, I will ask the first person to please contact me by a certain time because someone else is waiting, and if I hear nothing, I offer it to the second person. I might be a bit of a crab about this, but I still try to always be polite to people anyway.

6. How much information should i give if the person doubts my credibility due to my lack of feedback? Is there a line between a buyer asking for too much information because the buyer thinks I'm a scammer? I don't mind sharing information of my dolls if it puts the person at ease, but I don't know how much information I shouldn't share.
If you have little to no feedback, it's always a risk to a buyer. If you have feedback on other sites like eBay or Etsy, share that. Never have your buyer pay with "friends and family" but always use "goods and services". That will give them the protection they need if they are scammed and will put most buyers at ease. Give them a couple of ways to contact you should anything go wrong (Instagram, Twitter, FaceBook, email. They don't need your phone number or address.) Most buyers understand you have to start somewhere, but there will always be some that are uncomfortable if you don't have feedback.

7. Is it possible that someone wants the photos of a doll or proof photos to use to scam others? (I don't watermark my photos. I don't think anyone would do this, but the thought came across my mind that maybe that's why people watermark their photos. I know this happens on some other hobbies.)
It's possible and has been done, but it's pretty unusual. I think I've only heard of it happening once in all the time I've been in the hobby. I never watermark mine, and as far as I know, mine have never been taken (and if they have, I never knew about it). As proof that you actually have the doll, you can mention in your listing that if the buyer requires more pictures, you're willing to do that, or take a pic of the doll holding a piece of paper with your name and the date on it.

8. Any other advice?
A few things that make or break it when I'm buying a doll:
-Don't charge paypal fees. It's against PP's TOS in some countries, and some people just refuse to buy from sellers that charge them. If you want a certain amount after fees, then just figure it into the price (like list $312 price instead of $300+fees)
-Offer free shipping or a flat rate shipping. It makes it easier on the buyer to know exactly what they'll be spending without having to go back and forth with you to get a total.
-Offer international shipping. It reaches a wider range of people. (Though with what a pain it can be and how crazy shipping prices have gotten, I think most people understand if you don't want to.)
-Make sure your pictures are in natural light and your background is clean. It helps people see the doll clearly. A dirty or cluttered background can also deter buyers, either because it's distracting or they worry the doll might not be clean. This doesn't mean you need to organize your entire house to sell a doll, but you can throw down a clean sheet, blanket or towel to lay the doll on.
-Take pictures of the full doll you're selling. If it's a full set, also show it without clothes. Knowing the body type and seeing if there is any damage or staining really helps. I like to see exactly what I'm getting, not just a cropped face shot.
-List if you have pets, if your home is smoking or non, and if there are any other scents in your home that may cause reactions in some people (like incense, perfume or vapes.)
-Give a clear estimate of when you'll ship. Doesn't have to be exact, but "1-3 business days" or "within a week" work.
-When you do ship, be sure the doll is carefully packaged with plenty of packing material for a safe trip!

 

No worries! I just meant people who enter lotteries to win the chance to buy a limited doll or who otherwise get a rare doll just to resell, keeping those who actually wanted the doll from getting it at the original price. I probably should have specified that I meant in general, not that you specifically did anything wrong.