Tutorial What you need to know about respiratory protection!

Thank you very much for this! I have a respirator from my days as a Cosplayer and thought that was enough for this hobby. I’m so glad I read this!

 

This is such a wonderful informative thread!

I haven't done much face-ups myself but I did recently do a large project which required tons of spray painting. We had to spray in the garage (with the door opened) and I was so thankful to have a respirator. The seal on my face was perfect and so much better than the disposable mask we had on hand. Couldn't smell any of the fumes

I've tried hand painting with Mr. Color model paints indoors before and the fumes were so bad even though the paint wasn't aerosolized. So unless its non-toxic craft paint I'll use my respirator.
Can't image spraying indoors without a fume hood.

 

True. If I had googled any of the chemicals in MSC I would have tossed my can ages ago.

I wanted to give an update on my condition for everyone on the thread to make their own decisions, and to let them know what can happen with MSC.

Respiratory issues aside, overexposure to MSC carries the risk of Central Nervous System, Peripheral Nervous System, and Auditory organ damage.

PNS damage can be reversible. CNS absolutely cannot. Over the course of the last few weeks I have had issues that go beyond respiratory and have gone into what I suspect is nerve damage. I have an over sensitivity to noise as well so I suspect my auditory nerve was compromised.

Breathing damage does suck, don't get me wrong. But it can be managed. When these other major body systems get damaged, it can be debilitating. So please everyone, use precautions and be wise when using this stuff.

 

Thank you Tekenduis for the good advice and links to information. If anyone needs more information,
my can of MSC came with a warning label printed in english attached to the cap. Full text below:

"DANGER : EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE HARMFUL IF INHALED
Contains 2-Pentanone, 4-methyl-, 2-Pentanone, 4-hydroxy-4-methyl-
Ethanol, 2-Butanone, 1-Butanol May contains Titanium oxide (Ti02), Silicon dioxide

PRECAUTIONS : Keep away from ignition sources and secure ventilation to work area.
Wear protective gloves, eye/face protection and long sleeved clothes to avoid skin contact.
Wash hands and gargle mouth thoroughly after handling.
Do not use this product other than the purpose specified by the manufacturer/supplier.
Close container tightly and store indoor and away from heat and rain. Protect from sunlight.

KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN.

WARNING : CONTENTS UNDER PRESSURE. Do not punctuate, crush, incinerate or store
above 120 F

DIRECTIONS: Use in a well ventilated area. High humidity is not recommended. Shake can vigorously before use and shake often.
Spray evenly holding from 10" to 12" from work. Spray with multiple thin layers to get better look. Do not stop in middle.
Spray past object being painted. To clear valve after using, invert can and spray several times.

FIRST AID : If in eyes, wash eyes with plenty of water, and in case of persistence of irritation, get medical attention immediately.
If inhaled, and your feel unwell because of inhalation, remove to fresh air and keep at rest in a position comfortable for breathing, and call a physician. If swallowed, call a physician immediately.

INFORMATION : CALL 800-222-1222
WARNING : This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer.

Manufactured by
GSI Creos Corporation HOBBY Dpt.
3-1 , KUDAN-MINAMI 2-CHOME, CHIYODA-KU, TOYKO
102-0074 JAPAN
Made in Japan"

 

The more I read about the respitory protection, dangers of resin and Mr. Super Clear, the more anxious and panicky I get. No joke.

I trained doing make ups for plastic doll heads, using MSC years ago and recently coated some bjd parts with it this year. Last time, when I used it on the bjd parts, I went to check if they had dryed (I left them on a balcony) after an hour or two, and a strong horrible smell hit my face. I had a MB 21 FFP2 mask on which probably wasn't enough. I have a diagnosed fragance sensitivity/perfume allergy and a general sensory sensitivity (not due to or after MCS use, I've always had them), so I don't know who and what to trust; Often people say they don't smell something I do, or it's not that bad, which makes me insecure when I don't know if there's a real danger I should react to, or not, or if I'm having a sensory related hallucination at times, even.

After this latest MCS exposure adventure I didn't feel sickness, irritations or anything else whatsoever, which I usually get immediately after being around cigaretter smoke or perfumes, for example. But it still got me darn scared, because the smell was so strong. Almost began to cry for my pal who had smelled it too, and I was afraid they would get a life altering condition right there and then because of my stupidity. Either of us have no nerulogocical, physical, lung whatsover issues appearing though after the exposure.
I'm not sure I'm over-reacting to the potential dangers of the chemicals, but it makes me feel extremely horrible if I manage to ruin someone's life (or make mine worse by being unprepared for a thing like this) by not being careful enough by predisposing them to these toxics. I don't have fancy studios or a carage to work in and probably foolishly thought that a fan and opening up windows, or spraying coating in the balcony would be safe.

This experience has also made me become afraid of the bjd resin. Now, I barely even dare to touch my first and new doll in fear it's shedding dust particles from a surface scratch that I have not noticed and it gets into my (or someone elses) system from handling the doll. Even smelling the resin is enough to make my pulse raise: Bad, unnatural smell registers as a danger immediately in my mind.

Now I'm afraid I might have made a mistake with my choice of a hobby "Expensive and dangerous, what have I gotten myself into?". Of course I had read about these issues over ten years ago when I first got interested of bjds, but now, as older, I really don't want to play with my health.

 

I live somewhere where it's almost impossible to be 15ft from any people for 30min without driving and that's not practical for doing face-ups. So I'm going toward using brush on sealants. So far the sponge dab method seems like it should work well for most of what I want to do. Any new medium has a bit of a learning curve, testing stuff inside my doll's head caps helps.

As for resin sanding, it looks like hand sanding throws dust a lot less than using a rotary tool so sanding doll parts underwater and washing off my work area with soap afterward will take care of the majority of that problem. I will wear a mask too and that should keep the rest away from myself and my household.

Updated on 3/23/2021-
/doll-profiles/trinary.19230/
Have done one faceup using Liquitex Ultra Matte Medium and the makeup sponge method. Texture is a bit different from MSC, and the color lay down took more layers and so more time, but worked pretty well. Both sealers have pros and cons.

 

Seafoam Shade,
See some of my previous replies to this thread for some ideas. You can make a simple exhaust hood using a cardboard box laid on its side. Leave the flaps on so you can open and close them as necessary. Cut a small hole in the back a little smaller than a fan. Attach the fan blowing away from the box. You can put this near a window and the dust and odor will be blown out the window. You can use cardboard to direct the flow however you wish.

Seafoam Shade,
Sometimes they try to make the chemicals worse than they are. Yes these are nasty chemicals.
The Titanium Oxide (TiO2) is nothing more than "Plain White" powder used in paint and deodorant.
The Silicon Dioxide (SiO2) is sand which is also glass.
The other chemical needs care when handling it. However it can be done safely.
I've worked with these and many other chemicals. I'm a Research Chemist for the semi-conductor industry.

Scorpion

 

Thank you for the advice : ) If I need to do some heavy duty sanding that should work really well.
And thanks to this I now know how to make quotes work!

 

I'm glad to be of service. Be safe, and have fun.

Scorpion

 

I'm glad I found this thread before my blank doll comes. I'm planning to work with pastel first so didn't think much but then remember I need to seal the paint, and from MSC to this topic. So I did some search online and found this mask. It uses 3M multi-gas/vapour. The price is reasonable too. Just want to make sure this is the right one while spraying the sealants? I like the kit as it has the goggles as well and comes with everything I need.

https://www.amazon.ca/Dustproof-Zel...keywords=3M+respirator&qid=1602905657&sr=8-16

I also found this https://www.amazon.ca/3M-Safety-142...&keywords=3M+respirator&qid=1602906221&sr=8-8

The 3M looks more durable. I'm just not sure about its size. I think it may fit me as I'm a petite girl. They don't say anything about how big your face should be to use a specific size. And it's too much trouble to do a return at this time.

Another question is after I spray the sealant, can I use alcohol wipes to clean these masks? What about my clothes? I'm planning to get the transparent suit that people wear for COVID when they get on the plane, but the thicker one that can be reused. If I use that suit, can I wash away the particles with detergent?

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Dustproof-Zel...keywords=3M+respirator&qid=1602905657&sr=8-16

I also found this https://www.amazon.ca/3M-Safety-142...&keywords=3M+respirator&qid=1602906221&sr=8-8

The 3M looks more durable. I'm just not sure about its size. I think it may fit me as I'm a petite girl. They don't say anything about how big your face should be to use a specific size. And it's too much trouble to do a return at this time.

Another question is after I spray the sealant, can I use alcohol wipes to clean these masks? What about my clothes? I'm planning to get the transparent suit that people wear for COVID when they get on the plane, but the thicker one that can be reused. If I use that suit, can I wash away the particles with detergent?[/QUOTE]

Answer:
This is a good mask: In fact I've used this one in the past. The (2X cap) (6X Particles filter cotton) pieces are very important. These will stop particulates from entering the (Organic gas/Vapor) portion of the filter and will keep the organic filter from plugging. While you are spraying, if you are having difficulty breathing then the particle filter may be starting to plug. Move away from the work area and change that cotton filter.
The cotton filter is much cheaper to purchase that the chemical filter.

If you look at some of my previous posts on this thread you will see other suggestions including how to construct a basic spray booth using a cardboard box, duct tape and a fan.

As for fit I've also outlined that in this thread. It sounds like you may use a Small mask. My face is about 5 1/2" (14 cm) across and I have small in some brands and large in others. My mask that was like this one was a large. know that makes this "As clear as mud" LOL. But the reality is that you need to do a fit test to see what size you actually need and every time you don the mask to make sure it is leak free each time you put it on. You should use alcohol wipes after each time you use the mask to clean it inside and outside. Hang it to air dry then put it into a bag that will NOT deform the mask (without the filters) attached. Store it in a closet out of the light and away from heat. It should last you a long time.

There is also the option of getting a Full Face mask which would eliminate the need for goggles. This is only a thought not necessity. Just what you feel comfortable with.

That suit or even a Tyvek suit will be fine. You can get away with an apron of some type. For this type of work you can use some old work in the garden clothes. I would suggest long sleeve blouse/shirt, long pants and nitrile or latex gloves is all that is really necessary. The nitrile gloves will hold up better than the latex gloves.

I know this is kind of long winded, however this is an important subject. And I want to see everybody safe on the budgets that we have.
If you have any questions please ask. I have many years experience with this subject.

Scorpion

 

Thanks a lot @scorpion. I have gone through the thread to see what others are talking about this topic and also decided to use the non-toxic sealant vallejo acrylic aerosol spray vanish instead of MSC. It's available on amazon but one downside is the price for the matte type is much more expensive. But so far I haven't seen its negative sides on the sealant thread yet. It says not having CFCs

So did the Zelbuck mask fit you well? Do you use 3M brand in size small or large? As far as I know, I need to spray 3 times before doing the faceup, then one time between layers. Total may be around 6-7 sprays. Will the filters be good enough for that number of times if I store them well after each use, assuming the face up will be done in 2 weeks? The filters should be stored in the similar way as storing the mask right?

I definitely have old clothes I can wear. So is it ok if I wash the clothes after in the washing machine with warm water? I will use disposable gloves so won't be worried about that.

Yes this is very important because any damage to health is scary. I'm concerned about this more than covid lol

 

CFC (Chlorofluorocarbons) is the propellant also known as FREON. You still need to look at whatever components that make up the coating. People is "CFC free" and think that all the toxics are gone. So be careful and check that other chemicals in the container for their health effects.

I used 3M specifically and large was the size I used. The small was a German mask Drager for airline use. Everything else was either large on medium/large.

You should be OK since the spray times should be very short in duration. In different situations I used a single filter for an entire work shift, sometimes during strenuous activity. I would suggest storing the filters separate from the mask. Cleaning the mask after each use and allowing it to air dry before storing it. Put a piece of plastic wrap or plastic bag over the connection point of the filter to mask and maybe using a rubber band to keep it attached during storage. (This would be for the used filter ONLY). By doing this you will prevent the bad chemicals from getting around to the inside of the mask when the filters are being stored in a plastic bag. You may be able to just throw the outer filter away after the 6-7 uses and reuse the chemical filter part for many uses. The real problem is if you do not use the outer filter the adhesives in the spray will plug the chemical filter. Keeping the chemical filter clean by using the outer filter will extend the chemical filters capacity to do its job. You will need to judge this by whether you have any difficulty breathing or smell the chemical you are working with. If not you can continue using the filters.

I would suggest washing the clothes separate from your other normal use clothes.

 

Ack, this thread has reminded me to get the dust filters. Argh. XD At least it's possible now, unlike when I bought my mask and amazon etc (every regular DIY retailer too) were sold out of everything. (I ended up buying one from a specialist site)

One thing I realised using a mask for the first time, is it'll feel tight enough at first, but if you're working for a long time that elastic is gonna relax, so be wary! Especially if you're sanding and won't have the smell to clue you in to your mask loosening.

At the moment I'm storing my chemical filters in a zip-lock bag. I hope that's good enough to help them last...?

Am so glad for this thread and so glad I got a mask because of the info here. Even just the tiniest whiff of Citadel spray was horrible. Was very glad to be able to give my dolls a base of sealant in a big batch! My dog was not happy having to stay indoors while I did stuff outside XD

Apologies for the ramble.

 

You can use Saran Warp and rubber band on the thread side of the filter before you put them into the ziploc bag. This will keep the chemical off the side that is closest to your face.

 

Just have this itch to check if what I'm using is good enough for my applications.

I'm using the 3M full face respirator with these cartridges. My applications are mainly airbrushing, painting, solvent use, sanding and most importantly, resin casting. I am a doll maker and I cast using Smooth-On's polyurethane resins (321 and 327) as well as their silicone Mold Max 14NV. Wondering if there are any people here that are more knowledgeable in that area.

Thank you!

 

Not sure exactly about these specific resins, however I've worked in the semi-conductor industry. I have used a similar filter to this one you listed. I haven't been able to locate the SDS at the time. The main thing to look for is that these filters are good for "Organic vapors", the other thing that I used to look for was protection against "Radionuclides".

 

Sorry to jump back in but I want to add that these past few months since my exposure I've been in contact with Mr Hobby. My hearing condition has gotten worse, my breathing remains labored, and doctors cannot do a thing and doubt the danger of the product. Other internet resources claim that these chemicals are only bad in "worst-case scenarios".

Mr Hobby claimed that:

1. The product isn't unsafe
2. You should work in a ventilated area
3. MSC continues to off-gas for a week while drying and that the vapors are harmful, but still insist the product is safe to use.
4. That they don't know of anyone who has developed breathing issues from MSC
5. My hearing damage must be from "other causes" despite it clearly saying on the MSDS that it can damage the auditory organ.
6. Insisted on an allergy test, despite no longer using the product

Just wanted to warn in case anyone does get sick and try to contact; they will most likely deny it is the product. Please save yourselves the headache of your sanity being questioned by doctors and manufacturers. It really does seem there is zero help out there for us unlucky ones.

I find the off-gassing period interesting, I was always under the impression, even from scratching the surface of this hobby, that MSC dried nearly instantly. And I'm sure everyone does face-ups close up without wearing their respirator. I know people who have been using MSC for years without this issue. Still something to keep in mind.

Stay safe everyone.

 

I've worked as a QC technician at Glidden Paint company years ago. We had several tests on the various coating materials.

Which included the following:

1) Dry to the touch
2) Tack free
3) Cure of various times up to 24 hours

ALL chemicals including plain old H2O (water) off-gasses until it completely dries. Solvents have different levels of what is called a "carrier", this is the solvent or gas that keeps the coating material in suspension until it is in place and left to cure. These "carriers" will lower the viscosity so that the coating material flows and levels out over the entire substrate.

Most manufacturers will not tell you directly what these carrier chemicals are. However they MUST warn or inform you of the dangers of these chemicals, which from your explanation they have done. Also keep in mind that the MSDS (old term) SDS (new term) will usually over embellish the hazards and or safety precautions to cover themselves
.
Here is an example for everybody especially the lady's out there. "Finger nail polish" and "Finger nail polish remover" contain acetone. This is the sweet smelling solvent that they use as the carrier so keep the polish fluid until you apply it or remove it. Once it is completely cured you will no longer smell it. Just keep in mind that after "dry to the touch" it is still off-gassing. Once it gets to the completely cured stage is when the off-gassing stops.

 

Thankyou for this information.

After sealing the face, while painting it with pastel or watercolor is it necessary to wear respiratory protection? for some reason I can't find information about it nowhere on the internet.

 

As long as there are no VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds). The label should have this information on it. It will show somewhere on the label "No VOC's", then it will be safe.

I would suggest that you put the pieces in a ventilated area away from your normal living space until they are completely dry. You can look at some of me previous posts to see how to make a little "exhaust hood" to ventilate. Good luck, and hope this helps.

 

Watercolor doesn't give off any fumes so it should be fine. Pastels you technically don't need to, but I've gotten very sensitive to it and have been considering at least wearing a dust mask (especially as I have a lot of basic cloth masks that should work for this purpose now)

 

I had a maybe silly question about respirator fit, I've never used one before. I was trying to test mine by spraying air freshener-- if i can smell it at all, does that mean its not working properly?

 

I also wear a dust mask while using pastels.

And @confidencealive - yeah, if you can smell something, the mask isn't 100% right. It might be a case of the respirator size being off, just not fully connected around your face, or perhaps some kind of issue with the cartridges.

 

Also make sure that the filters used are appropriate for the paint/sealant you are using (detailed information on the first page of this thread).

For fit testing, check if any instructions came with the mask. The manual that came with my respirator asks me to perform two different checks to see if the mask is properly sealed around the face and also has specific instructions for tightening the straps. The tests are pretty much what is mentioned on the first page of this thread (called a self check). Once you've made sure that the mask is properly fit, you should not be able to smell any paint odors. It doesn't matter how many times you have put the mask on before, you should do one of these fit tests every time to make sure the seal is actually there.

 

Apologies for a dumb question - if I understood correctly, I need to look for A1 P2/P3 filters in Europe for 3M 7500 or 6000 mask. So would 6051 A1 (vapours) and 5935 P3R (dust) be adequate? Sorry if it has been asked before, but most of the links I've found were old

I am also wondering, how dangerous are brush-on sealants if applied with a brush (like Vallejo or Liquitex)? Do they need to be used in a separate room or outdoors? I will probably move all my customization stuff to my parents, as I will be able to use the worst stuff outdoors, but I am curious if anyone has the information.

 

Is anyone else in Europe having trouble finding masks during the pandemic?
I also have the same question MsPatricius has.

 

I live in Sweden. Pretty much all disposable dust masks were sold out for the longest time. But It is slowly getting better. Look in real harware stores, if possible, rather then the big building supplies chain stores. They will be a little bit more expensive, but the people shopping there are often professionals who need the masks for their job and they buy the masks for their inteded purposes and thus, don't over buy.
I've had no trouble finding filters for my real mask (filter for organic vapors for a Sundrtöm mask.) Prefilters were difficult for while, but those are also mostly back now.

 

I got a half face A2P2. I asked my boyfriend and he said it was the equivalent of what was recommended in the first post. Not sure if this is helpful for you. Hopefully if I made a mistake someone will correct me.

I went to a very big hardware store but they only had half face masks. The disposable mask there were not good enough for what I needed.

 

This was really helpful. Thanks

 

I got myself a 3M 7502 half face respirator around 4 years ago, and I've only used it 2 or 3 times. From the day I got it, the holders for the particle filters fall off if I bump them wrong, part of one of the tightening mechanisms for the straps fell off or broke, and the lower straps fit so badly that it's horribly uncomfortable. The last time I tried to put it on so I give some of my many blank dolls at least a basic face-up, just trying to put the thing one was so frustrating I burst into tears and gave up. Am I doing something wrong? Should I buy a different one? I wore an N95 for an hour the other day while I was sanding a doll without an issue. Help please!

 

I have only used 3M respirators from time to time and they were always comfortable for me to ware all morning or afternoon. I mostly use North, Dragger, and Scott which fit the same.

The N95 is only marginally useful for dust. These like the painters mask are very difficult to get a good seal. If you have ever seen a painter / body worker (automotive), you would see that most of the time these masks are called "bolder stoppers" (as in stones or rocks). Since there is a wire across the nose you must squeeze that to clamp it onto your nose. When these people are finished sanding bondo (auto body filler) and take off the mask you will see streaks down each side of their noses. This is due to the lack of a good seal.

The particulate piece should snap on. Sometimes it is tight and a little bit difficult to snap onto the chemical filter. The particulate cover is square shaped on these and can be a pain to snap on. The North ones are round and they are a little easier to snap on. So I would not be so quick to throw it away.

After you are finished using it and are going to put it away for a while disassemble it and thoroughly wash it with a mild soap. Then hang it to air dry in a natural position. Once it is dry reassemble it and place it into a plastic bag. Put it into a box or on a shelf in a way that it stays in its natural position and out of sunlight and in a place that does not get too hot.

The plastic piece should rest on the back/upper portion of your head. The other strap should connect behind your head below your ears. It should be comfortable. It should last for years. I have several masks that I have been using for many years and they are still in good shape. I work with chemicals much, much worse than what you are using for these dolls.

You can also check out my tips in this thread previously.
Hope this helps.

 

It sounds like it has fallen apart? If it was stored in a hot place for example, the plastic can warp so that the filters will not stay on. Can you provide pictures? It might be something as simple as using it incorrectly.

 

It was like that from the day I got it. I have been storing somewhere that gets hot recently, but the fastener came off day 1, and one of the particle filters wouldn't snap on properly and easily fell off then too.

 

It could also be wrong shielding for the proper filters, new filters should have new external casing that will snap on. It's hard to tell specifically without pictures though of the area in order to troubleshoot.

 

@Leo Pheonix - if there's one near you, Harbor Freight has a reasonably priced mask for MSC spraying, and they sell replacement filters cheaply ($5? Sounds about right).

I've been using one. Can't smell a thing. I keep it stored in doubled zip bags between uses.
Linkie: P95 Maintenance-Free Dual Cartridge Respirator, Large

Edited to add: oops. $6: Organic Vapor Cartridge, 2 Pk.

 

I'll have to see if there's any place in my area where I can take my respirator and have someone help me figure out what I'm doing wrong. Frustrating, but my dolls can stay blank until then.

 

Question.

How long do MSC fumes take to dissipate outside and how dangerous could they be to my neighbours?

I have a front courtyard which is close to the communal bins and overlooked by a variety of neighbours. If I take my doll/head outside to spray with Mr Super Clear and my neighbours one floor up have their windows open are they safe? If someone comes out immediately after I've finished to put something in the bin are they safe?

 

The fumes from actually spraying should only take a few seconds to dissipate, but any fumes coming off the piece while it is drying would linger a while.

 

OK, that's good to know. I don't much like my neighbours but I also don't super want to poison them.

 

What AirmirOfGondor has said is essentially correct. Now without giving you numbers and ppm levels I will give you a few examples that will make sense.
The amount of VOC's that are released during a head spraying would be a volume amount equivalent to about the size of 1/4 of a penny. Now if you take a penny and put it into a fuel tanker that would be equivalent to about 1000 ppm. The volume that you spray each time is a very small amount of the VOC's. If you can imagine how many fuel tankers will fit into the space between your house and your neighbors house, you can approximate the dilution of ppm of the VOC's that are getting to an area. If you imagine the fuel tankers sideways from the point at which you are spraying and the wind direction. Also keep in mind that as you stack the imaginary fuel tankers side by side you will also need to add a fuel tanker in length. This will represent a cone shape getting larger as it gets further from you.
1 fuel tanker next to you
2 fuel tankers next to next to the single fuel tanker
3 fuel tankers next to next to the 2 fuel tankers

And so on.

 

When I was a kid, spray paint precautions were basically just: do it outside. Clearly that's insufficient. I started working on my dolls again and was using a kn95 and spraying outside because I was trying to be extra cautious (mask). It sounds like that's also insufficient.

My question: Does being outside with the kn95 provide any level of protection or should I be concerned about that exposure? Obviously can't go back in time but wondering: Did I do myself any favors at all there or was that effectively just as bad?

 

If I understand properly, KN95 (and N95) are rated for a certain size of particulates like dust and dirt and pollen and the like.

With aerosols, suuuuuper non-scientifically - the solids of the sealant are suspended in a gas. Basically, when you spray the can, both the gasses and the solids spray out at the same time. So, a mask that is rated just for particulates would protect you against the solids of the sealant if the mask is rated highly enough. But it wouldn't protect against the gasses.

 

Yes you are correct with your statement.

 

You will find that I have written in this thread about your situation. Spraying outside is a good thing since that you are in an open area which will dissipate the hazards quickly. Inside of a building is an enclosed area with a finite amount of space. Without proper ventilation you could possibly asphyxiate yourself and any other creature that is inside. Over time the chemicals will dissipate.

I have listed how to build a simple ventilation hood that can be used inside or outside using a cardboard box (enclosure) and a fan. Using some sort of enclosure inside or outside will cut down on any dust or particles getting into your fresh spray.

Personally I would not recommend using one of these N95 masks for any tasks that you are doing on the dolls or similar items. Depending on whether or not you have any anxiety about wearing a "Half Face Mask" or a "Full Face Mask" respirator. I would suggest at least a "Half Face Mask". Both of these masks have changeable filters which can one of 3 styles. "Chemical" "Particulate" or "Chemical Particulate". The chemical filter you would need to match to the chemical properties of what you are applying. Each filer type will cover a "Family Type" of chemicals. The "Particulate" is a HEPA filter which will eliminate particles greater than or equal to 0.3µm with up to 99.97% efficiency. It is best to use a chemical filter and snap a particulate filter on the outside of the chemical filter. That way you will protect the chemical filter so it can do its job best. And it is the more expensive part of the filtration system. The particulate filter that is snapped onto the outside of the chemical filter is very cheep and can be changed without removing the respirator if necessary when you notice that is is getting more difficult to breath easily.

If you have any further questions please don't hesitate to ask.

 

Thank you for repeating yourself, 40 pages is a lot to search through to find everything that might be relevant so I appreciate it! Definitely going to be taking better precautions. Should I be worried about having not done so previously?

Related: do you know why it's not well known that this is needed for spray paint? For example, is there just not an effective means of information desemination?

I'm now thinking about the number of events for teenagers I helped out at where they were spray painting indoors with absolutely zero protection... And I'm a little scared for my (and their) lungs now.

 

Years ago there was not as much known about the chemicals. Actually the precautions get downplayed when the products are sold to the general public. Because of the presumption that who is precautions the product knows what they are doing.
One good example is Draino. When it is transported and sold as a commercial product it is a hazardous material, but when sold to the public it is only a Dangerous chemical so people do not panic.

As for the past exposure, most of them have what is called a synergistic effect. So "Chronic effects" which are small doses over a long period of time. This is cumulative over time. You have the potential to become sensitized which means you may not be able to detect the chemical. Thus at this point you could have an Acute exposure/reaction.
As long as things are similar to what you feel as normal. For example no discoloration of any body fluids. Or any kind of odd aches and pains. You should be fine just by taking precautions from here on out. That way little or no more will accumulate.

A ventilation hood can easily be made using a box laid on its side and use the flaps to make the front hole larger or smaller. Cut a hole in the rear of the box a little bit smaller than the fan you selected and orient it so the air is moving away from the box. If inside preferably out a window. If outside, the air will also move away from you and the rear of the box. When outside make sure you are standing up wind of the makeshift hood.

Also when using the makeshift hood it will help keep sissy and dirty from getting onto your wet paint or sealant until it cures.

How this was not too long.

That should answer your questions. If you have any more or you need further clarification please don't hesitate to ask. I will be happy to answer.

 

If memory serves me right. I have only been posting in about the latest 10 or so pages.

 

I didn't realize that about those chemicals. That seems irresponsible, the labeling talked about!

I ordered a respirator and will not be doing any more spraying until it arrives. If I'm using a respirator is the ventilation box necessary as well? I will still be spraying outdoors.

(Also, that is reassuring regarding symptoms and probable damage.)

 

First off congratulations on the investment.
Hopefully you purchased the correct size. (Sm - Md - Lg - Sm/Md - Md/Lg - X-Lg)
Which one did you purchase?
Brand
Model
Half face
Full face
Air purify
Air supply
Powered Air supply

Some tips about a respirator:

Respirator inspection
Since you will not be using the respirator all the time you will need to inspect it every time you are preparing to use it.
1 Make sure ALL of the respirator is soft and pliable. Especially the area that will seal against your face.
2 Check that the inlet and exhaust blubber valves are soft and pliable. And that they lay flat against the mask. (The inlet valves will be in the inside of the mask where the chemical filter attaches and the exhaust blubber valve will be on the outside of the mask under a cover). (The blubber valves will look like a "Fender Washer").
3 Make sure the elastic straps are stretchy.


Donning the mask
1 Go to a clean non-contaminated area away from the work area.
2 Don the mask (put on the mask) with the filters attached if your hands can cover the entire filter.
3 Suck in just a little bit and hold it.
4 If you feel air leaking in around the edges then you need to adjust the mask and possibly tighten it slightly.
5 Repeat steps #2 and #3 unlit NO air comes in. (It should not take much tightening)
6 Place one hand over the exhalation valve and puff out. (NOT too hard). The seal should hold and expand slightly as if you are starting to blow up a balloon.

Then you are ready to work with the chemicals.

Once finished you are ready to Doff the mask (Take the mask off).
1 Tilt your head forward slightly. (This will ensure that NO chemicals drop inside the mask while you are removing it).
2 Loosen the straps.
3 Pull the mask out from your face slightly. And pull up and off your head at the same time.
4 Each time you Doff (take off) the mask at the end of the days use wipe it down inside and outside with a disinfectant hand wipe.
5 Store in a plastic bag of some sort. It can be a zip lock bag or any bag that can be sealed.
6 ALWAYS us a new plastic bag to store your mask or filters. NEVER use an old bag.
7 Make sure that the straps are NOT on the inside of the mask. You don't want any thing that is on the straps to get inside of the mask.
8 When it is inside of the plastic bag make sure that it is in its natural position and NOT distorted in ANY way.
9 Store in a cabinet away from daylight and especially sun light. Plastic deteriorates in light of any kind.

NOTE: I would suggest to store the respirator without the filters attached. Even a new one.

Leave the filters in the sealed packaging that it comes in until you are ready to use it. (This will keep them from getting contaminated).
Any time you are in close proximity to the chemicals you are working with you should wear a respirator.
If you are outside the filter will last much longer. (The chemical concentration will be much lower unless the wind is blowing in your face).
If you are storing the used filters that have not been used much. Put each one in a separate zip lock bag. Use a marked to put a date on the bag so you will know when the last time you used them and how long you used them each time. This will give you a total use time.

The chemical filters have a very large capacity so they can be used for a while. I worked with some of the most dangerous known to man and as a general rule we would use the filter a full day and then use a new filter the next day.
That said the manufactures suggest that you can use a filter until you taste the chemical inside of the mask. At which time you MUST immediately leave the area and get new filters.
I would suggest that you not use a filter beyond ~6 months or you start to smell/taste the chemical inside of the mask during use. The other indicator that the filter is becoming clogged is the breathing gets harder. This is a common thing with spray chemicals, which is why the particulate filter is good cheep insurance. The curing agent in the spray will clog the particulate filter and it will need to be changed. For this you ONLY need to change the particulate filter. This should restore free breathing again. If breathing is still difficult then it is time the change the chemical filter too.

You should go through a few particulate filters for each chemical filter. This will help save a little money.

 

I ordered the suggested 3m silicone starter half face kit that was recommended on the first page. I have an almost child size head so I ordered a small.

Other than the filters and the appropriate cleaning materials and storage bags, do I need anything else other than what comes in the kit? I will be using it fairly infrequently so other than getting another set of filters, is there any other replacement parts that I'll need?

Thank you so much for the info about storage!

 

No, it sounds like you have gotten things under control. 3M is a good brand.
Just make sure you adhere to all that I have written.
You might find that if it will be a long time between uses. The spray might dry onto the particulate filter and you will have a little difficulty inhaling. You can check the particulate filter by taking it off the chemical filter and bend and twist it a little. If it crackles any I would suggest changing it. If it does no crackle then you could reinstall it and use it again.

The most important thing to keep in mind is:
1) If you smell the contaminate with the mask on get clear of the area into a safe chemical free area and change the filters.
2) Do not enter the chemical area if the inhalation and exhalation fit test fails.

Sounds like you are off to a good start.

 

Hope I can get a response here! But I just sprayed sealant for the first time today. I am a little concerned about something. I was as careful as I could be (used a half face respirator, goggles, gloves, and even had a lab coat on) and I sprayed outside in the garage with the side door and the garage door open.

I used MSC, and when I was spraying, I didn't smell anything. However, when I walked back into my house after spraying and took off my mask I did smell a bit of something, and after I uncovered my doll head after letting it dry outside for an hour there was a faint smell on the thing I had used to cover it (I wasn't wearing a mask then, should I have been)?

I don't know if I'm just thinking about it too much, but I wonder if anyone else has experience something like this?

 

Hello fate_xo,
I do not actually use the MSC and other sealants. I have been a Research Chemist for too many years to list. You shouldn't have any issues considering the time lapse during which you smelled the MSC. You would not have reached or even come close to the STEL (Short Term Exposure Limit).

Below I listed some safe practices that you can add to your routine.

You can read some of my post on this thread. They will be easy to find since they should be on the last few pages so you do not have to start at the beginning.
I am going to add a few things that I had not mentioned in my previous posts on this thread:
1) You did not list which chemical filter canister / particulate filter you used. However the fact that you did not smell anything while the respirator was on is a good sign.
2) When you took the respirator off you smelled the MSC. (This is good, indicating the respirator did what it was supposed to do). (Not that smelling the MSC is good).
3) I'm going to list the donning / doffing of a mask / respirator:
A) In a clean (not contaminated) area don the mask / respirator
B) Leak check the respirator. Both inhalation and exhalation
C) Enter the spray area and complete your task
D) Prepare the area to allow ample time for the MSC to dry. (ie several hours as suggested on the can).
E) Exit the contaminated area (ie garage)
F) Go back to the known clean area and in the following order
1)) Remove the gloves by pinching them at the cuff of the glove and peal them off you hand so that it is inside out when it is completely off your hand
2)) Remove the lab coat pealing it off your body. (DO NOT pull the sleeves to remove, they are contaminated with MSC).
3)) Doff the mask / respirator by tilting your head forward and loosening the straps then pull them over your head and it will fall away from your face.
NOTE: As you are completing each of these above steps put these items in an area away from you (ie a table next to you).
G) Then you can go into your house or where ever else you would like to go.
4) You did not list how you covered the head. (This trapped the MSC "off gassing" to be trapped in the area of the head). You should leave it uncovered to dry and "off gas".
5) An hour is ONLY dry to a condition called "DTTT" "Dry To The Touch". Which means that it feels dry, however it is wet underneath. At this point it is VERY VERY easy to put finger prints onto the painted part.
6) Complete dry could take several hours to overnight.

QUESTION: Did you have a good cross flow of air in the garage while spraying? If so that is a good thing.
NOTE: If cross flow is not good in the garage then you could place a box fan in the doorway (man door, not the car garage door).

Sorry about my long windedness. However I take chemical exposure very seriously.
Hope this helps,
Scorpion

 

I’m trying to buy the mask recommended but whatever website I go to says it’s only for industrial use. Not for consumers. I don’t understand... I can buy spray paint just fine but I can’t buy something to protect me from it? Can someone help?

 

Hello,
Not sure where you live. However if you go online to one of these.

McMaster Carr
MSC
Granger

These are USA warehouses. I'm sure you can order from them for delivery anywhere in the world.

These 3 warehouses are like a hardware store. They have almost anything.

 

Thank you for this post and the useful (and lifesaving) info you provided! Too many tutorials and videos out there just casually mention using sprays and sanding resin without specifying you NEED protection. Definitely gonna add this to my watchlist and show it to anyone who might need to read it!

 

Hope this is the right place to ask this question. I purchased some Vallejo matte acrylic spray for doing faceups and used it (with appropriate protection!) to seal some props and OT models that had come out too glossy when I'd brushed them with Liquitex. After several hours, I had to bring the items in as it was going to rain, and I noticed they still smelled strongly of Vallejo. I left them overnight in a well-ventilated room, and this morning they still smell strongly.

Is this normal and safe? If so, how long should it take for the smell to 'wear off'? Could the Vallejo be reacting to the Liquitex or the acrylic paints I used? I don't want to if I can help it, but should I dispose of the things I sprayed? I pretty much have to sit them in areas that are used by myself, my family, and our pets when it's wet outside and I don't want to put any of us in danger.

I'd really appreciate any advice someone with more experience of sprays could give me.

 

This is just my advice but I wouldn't get rid of the pieces just yet. From what I know, the smell does fades in the sun, but a rainy day + drying indoors for only a day or so probably just wasn't enough to let the smell go away. Maybe it also hasn't dried properly yet. Of course, I can't judge how BAD it smells, but unless you think it smells dangerous, I'd let the pieces take their time, and dry in a separate, well-ventilated room for a few days. They do smell, but do they feel dry or still wet?

About the area where you keep them, do you mean you're worried about it being dangerous AFTER you take the pieces away?Once you remove them and you ventilate for a bit, I don't believe it's dangerous. If you meant that you're using them to dry your piece while people are there, I'd try to find a different spot. I've tried to defy the weather with boxes and blankets and whatnot in the past . Results may vary. I know it can be a pain to find a good spot for things to dry though.

About interactions with Liquitex, there are a lot of things to consider, but if it seems like it was a bad combination (was the Liquitex completely dry before you sprayed the pieces with Vallejo? Maybe the bottom layer didn't dry well, etc.) you can remove the whole thing (Winsor & Newton should work), and then use only one of those products. Liquitex also has a Matte version. It seems...well pretty matte to me! Is that the one you used?

I'm afraid it's almost impossible to give you exact advice because again, there are too many variables (product application, humidity, temperature, the weather doing whatever it wants, and sprays just loving to misbehave sometimes), but it seems like you took the right precautions while spraying, and that you're being careful. I would probably wait a couple more days, and if the smell doesn't fade, and the pieces don't look as dry as they should be, I'd remove everything and just use one sealant only.

Let us know how it goes?

 

Thanks for the very informative reply. I'd read on a model painting blog that matte Liquitex on top of gloss would look just as matte and make everything more durable, so I put the gloss on, let it dry, and was brushing matte over the top, but I realised that in my case, it was just making the things I was varnishing more glossy! That was months ago, so no chance the Liquitex wouldn't have dried thoroughly. I'd already decided pretty quickly that next time I will just save all the faff and use just matte Liquitex from the get-go for anything other than things like faceups!

Anyway, in the meantime I noticed that my goggles also smelled of Vallejo, which was actually good news as I then knew the smell wasn't the result of a reaction with another product I'd used on the props. I've been putting the props themselves outside whenever the weather permits. Otherwise the only place they could go was in a corner of the kitchen that isn't a high-traffic area. However, they were right under the skylight, and fortunately it's been hot where I live, so we've had the skylight open a lot. The best news is that while the models do smell a tiny bit, they're nowhere near as pungent as they were and the smell isn't noticeable unless you're actively looking (or should that be smelling?!) for it. So it doesn't feel like a potential risk anymore, and will probably continue to fade.

So you were right, I'd probably just underestimated the drying time. The props were dry to the touch, but obviously that doesn't necessarily mean they were dry right through. Next time I use my Vallejo, I'll definitely allow for a longer drying time. Which, living where I do, means I'll probably need to figure out some sort of cover that will protect drying faceups from light rain but still let them 'breathe'. IMHO, though, better safe than sorry.