Supplies What Materials for Faceups?

Hey everyone,

I would like to start making face up by myself, and I wanted to buy everything I need for the face up.
I read the guides stickied in this forum, but still have some questions, and I thought maybe you could help me.

I found this page, And wanted to order the necessary stuff.

- One or two set of paintbrushes
- ZM Acrylic Color Thinner
- Mr. Super Clear - Flat
- TAMIYA X-22 Gloss

So far on this page, there are different kind of thinners. There are ZM Acrylic Color Thinner, TAMIYA X-20A Acrylic Thinner, and Mr. Color Thinner 50ml.
What's the difference between these 3? And is any of them better than the others?

Also, what is ZM Finishing Powder Spray UV-Cut? Do I need it or Mr. Super Clear - Flat suffice?

Do I need ZM SHINE PEARL/ White at all?

Should I buy the pastels available on this page, or should I go to a craft store to buy the pastels, and if so what do you recommend?

What about for the acrylics? Where should I buy it and what's the best?

I've read several times about Liquitex retarder, what is it, and do I need it?

For the brushes, where do I find bigger brushes for blushing? And what do I clean my brushes with, or do I need to clean them at all?

Besides the respiratory mask, do I need anything else that I didn't include in this post?

Thank you very much for your time and answers

 

ZM Finishing Powder Spray is another alternative to MSC - you only need to buy one of them, and it really comes down to preference. MSC is just fine though :>. You don't need to buy any of the shine pearl powders unless you want your faceup to have glitter/pearly effects.

Liquitex retarder will slow down the drying time of acrylic paints (you mix it in with your paint), so you have more time to fix mistakes before the paint dries. You can find bigger brushes at the craft store, but you can also use a set of inexpensive human makeup brushes as well. For pastels you can wash your brushes with warm water and a mild soap, but with acrylics you should use water during and a brush cleaner if they get particularly dirty.

Hope that helps on some of the questions!

 

As far as pastels, there is a lot of discussion about what pastels are good to use here:
http://www.denofangels.com/forums/s...ncils-Post-photos-and-reviews-of-what-you-use!
I myself have some of the Volks ones, and I use them about as often as my non-Volks ones.

Here's the thread for the paints:
http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?21-Paints-for-Face-ups
I myself use a combination of Volks, Liquitex, and Golden acrylic paint.

And a thread on thinners:
http://www.denofangels.com/forums/s...C-PAINT-THINNER-what-to-use-and-how-to-use-it
I do believe the TAMIYA X-20A Acrylic Thinner's page says it is specifically for TAMIYA X-22 Gloss. So you won't need that unless you want to thin your gloss.
I also believe the ZM Acrylic thinner's page says it is specifically for use with ZM paints. But it will work on any acrylic paint.
For Mr. Color thinner, it's a slightly different formula that works best with airbrush paints.
I am not too sure about the Mr. Color though, as I haven't used it - that thread should have a lot of juicy info!

For things that you may need that you didn't list, I'd suggest having some paint mixing dishes. They are very helpful if you are mixing multiple paints at the same time. A craft store should carry something like these as well.

And I'd definitely suggest to have something on hand for cleaning the head as you practice, or if you make big mistakes. A thread on that:
http://www.denofangels.com/forums/s...-to-remove-a-face-up-materials-and-techniques
I like Windsor and Newton Brush Cleaner and Restorer and generic non-acetone nail polish remover.

And as far as random bits and pieces, I can also suggest a teeny tiny paint stirrer and toothpicks for mixing paint - you can even use the toothpicks to just get a small amount of color out of a bottle. Also, q-tips -in water- for quick cleanup of still-wet paint if you messed up, a magic eraser, and a clean and empty shoe box to keep the head in while it's drying.

Wowie, I wrote a lot! I hope there isn't too much info going on here!

 

Thank you very much for the useful info guys.

 

I was reading a tutorial.. the person who made it recommend use brushes for nail art. I just buy a set today. If you want the link to the tutorial just ask me. have a nice day!

 

I've seen some amazing face-ups with black swirly fine line designs on them, I was wondering what they use, is it a very fine marker type pen?

Or are they simply amazing with a fine paintbrush?

thanks

 

I have a question. I have the Derwent pencils Inktense, I can use it?

 

My apologies if this has already been asked, but is it possible to use traditional eyeshadow for a faceup? For example using the Urban Decay: Naked Palette? Would the doll be safe if it were applied over a layer of MSC or does eyeshadow have oil properties?

 

If you mean human make up then no, it is not safe to use from what I've read on here

 

Hello! My name is Trinity, very nice to meet you!
I am a digital artist, and recently have been very interested in making face-ups for BJD's.
I think I might get the hang of it fast, I have a very steady hand and have a lot of knowledge with faces, and colours, and I want to give it a go!
I've been looking at a lot of tutorials, but I never found a specific supplies need list.

This is what I have/shipping so far:
MSC Flat
Tamiya Acrylic Clear Gloss
Derwent 72 Watercolour Pencil Set
Schmincke 60 Soft Pastel Set
An assortment of Sephora small brushes

What would you recommend?
How much MSC do you usually use on one face?
How long does one can last?
Should I buy more?

Thank you!

 

Sounds like you have a good selection of supplies. Not everyone uses all of them. Some use acrylic paints only, some (like me) use pastels and watercolor pencils instead. You need to experiment to see what effects you can get with the various media and how comfortable you are with them, and decide for yourself which to use going forward. For me, the paint was unmanageable, my hands aren't steady enough, so I stick to pastels and pencils.

As to the MSC, one can lasts me through at least two faceups, but your mileage may vary!

 

Kcurry, Thank you so much! That does make sense! I'm not a fan of paint in general, I have always been a bit messy with it, since it is just so different than what I am used to!

I bought a couple cans of MSC, I hope that does enough for what I will be starting with!

I have another question though!
I have been searching for higher quality lashes; I want plain black, that tapers off at the end like how a human eyelash does, and I'd rather have them thin, and softer. But I just don't know where to look!
Does anyone have suggestions?
What kind of glue do I use?

Thank you!

 

I got my last order of eyelashes from Volks USA. They have a good selection and quality. These threads may give you some additional suggestions:

Good places to buy BJD Eyelashes...

Vier4D eyelashes.... what other retailers sell them???...>>>

As to glue, I use Aleene's Tacky Glue. available in most craft shops, Joanne's, Michael's, etc. Good old Elmer's works too, I understand.

 

Hi, I'm a newbie to faceups and a digital artist too I was thinking this exact same question and I'm so happy that you posted.
When I draw on the computer i often color makeup on my characters, and i was wondering is it's the same as a faceup with layers and color choice. I'm also relating faceups to real life makeup and I find that putting makeup on drawings on the computer is very similar to doing makeup in real life, so I'm hoping faceups are similar too. Does anybody know about that?

TrinityInRainbows Have you done a faceup yet? I'm really interested on how it came out :3 I'm on a very strict budget, too. Compared to your list I have a list of extremely cheap supplies like Testors instead of MSC, cheapo Artsits loft soft pastels (hope that won't ruin resin) and Reeves watercolor pencils.

How bad is my list? ;_;

 

Do I have to spray the head with msc before I do a faceup too? even if I only work with chalk pastels? =)

 

Yes, saranyaa, to protect the resin from being stained and to provide tooth for the pastel, spray a few coats before beginning.

 

Ok thanks =)
One more question, I live in germany and I have alot of problems finding mr super clear.. Is there anywhere in germany I can buy it? Or maybe an alternative that is sold in germany? =)

 

figured I'd hop in this thread and add my own experiences…… I have been experimenting with painting faceups for a little while now, and while I didn't have any trouble with the pastel/blushing, I was having a lot of trouble with eyelashes, eyeliner, and eyebrows, because I had trouble painting smooth and thin lines.

I tried a pretty large variety of brushes, and I also gave watercolor pencils a try after watching Andreja's great faceup videos, but in the end what works best for me is a Winsor & Newton Series 7 brush (pointed round, size 2/0) and gouache (I buy Winsor & Newton designer gouache as well; they're a good brand and their paints are highly pigmented)!

usually I see people recommending insanely fine/small brushes, but the series 7 is kind of my holy grail of sable brushes, and even though the brush head is larger, it is constructed so well and holds paint / controls paint flow so well, I actually find I get much, much thinner and more consistent linework out of it than I do from my cheaper sable (which is a size 20/0, go figure!)

both brushes are sables, but there's a huge quality difference imo, so if you can afford it, I think series 7 is worth the splurge. however, it's very important to take good care of brushes, especially when they cost as much as the series 7 does, which is one reason why I use gouache instead of acrylic, because I'm forgetful about keeping brushes wet, so I've lost many brushes to acrylic's fast-drying plasticky properties, whereas gouache will re-activate with water and wash out even if it dries on the brush. (but don't leave it dried on the bristles for too long!!)

gouache, in case you don't know, is for all intents and purposes the same as watercolor, so it is totally safe to use on faceups. the difference between gouache and watercolor is that gouache paints are opaque whereas watercolors are transparent.

I find gouache much easier to mix, and I also find that it applies much smoother and flatter than acrylic. to get a thin line, the #1 most important thing is paint consistency... it can't be too thick and gloppy, but it can't be too watery either. it should be like thin milk.

(the #2 important thing is for there to be the right amount of paint on the brush, so that's why I always test the brush on a piece of paper to make sure it flows smoothly before applying it to a doll's head, even if only 5 seconds have elapsed since I last used the brush.)

since gouache is water-soluble even after drying, I also find it easier to correct mistakes while I'm working. I keep one small cheap synthetic brush around just for dipping in water and lightly brushing away mistakes. the key to that, I've found, is to make sure not to rub hard, but let the water slowly do the work of erasing the line(s) you don't want. just put a drop of water on the mistake, then dry the brush and soak up the drop of water. keep doing it, and eventually the line will go away without your having damaged the MSC coating underneath.

anyway, I hope this helps! I think most faceup tutorials I've read all recommend using acrylic, so I thought I'd give a different view on it! I know there are many talented artists out there doing great work with acrylic, but if you, like me, are having trouble with it, maybe give gouache a try.

 

It's really interesting to read that acrylic paint and nail polish is ok to use for the faceups. I thought they might stain the resin. : O

 

I can't seem to find anything on the topic (or maybe I just know them by a different name) but has anyone ever made use of a technical pen (brands UniPin and Artline specifically) on your dolls? The pigment ink used for both is said to be water based so I thought they might be alright, but I wanted to see of anyone had any opinions on the matter.

I want to use them to make very detailed, very precise tribal tattoos (since I always seem to fail when I try it with acrylics).

 

I have a question re the sealants. Since I ran out of MSC I used the Testor's. The MSC arrived yesterday and I would truly like to re-spray the pieces with it before painting. Once a sealant is dried is there a problem changing the brands? Don't want to mess up as I have several dolls I am working on. I am so happy to have found this thread and will be reading everything.

 

Who has done eyebrows with pastels and water colour pencils?
Im really nervous about doing mine when my supplies arrive. Im a perfectionist and the thought of doing bad brows is killing me >__< lol

I believe I seen a post on tumblr a while back about someone using waterbased pens for tattoos and such. I think he still had trouble removing it after a few months.
I don't think I would risk it if you plan on changing it at some point >___<

 

I do them this way! ^_^ You brush on the pastels then "shape" them with a pencil-eraser. Then, when happy, coat with MSC then draw hairs on with watercolour pencil. If I muck up, a wet Q-tip removes the pencil and I start over.

 

I have a question too,sorry if it is asked before. I want to do a face up with pastels (chalk) because it looks so soft. But can I use Mr super clear then and it will not come off? Thanks!

Gefling,it looks beautiful!

 

MSC will seal the pastels in place. I recommend working in layers and applying MSC between the layers as you work. Also, make sure to apply MSC to the resin before you start working - this will prevent pastels from staining the resin and will provide nice surface for pastels to adhere to. Once you are done and happy with your work, it's a good idea to apply several coats of MSC, letting it dry between coats.

 

Thank you very much Anna. Also for the start with MSC before working, I did not know it!

Oke,one question because I can't find it here..Do you have to mix the pastels with something? Water or something else? I want to scratch a little bit from it and use a pensil to make eyebrows I do not know if the powder will stain on the doll

 

The powder will not stain the doll if you spray the resin with MSC first!

Pastels are most often used as a powder. Depending on how soft your particular brand of pastels is, you may need to shave off some of the stick into a very fine powder. There are numerous ways of doing that - gently scraping the pastel with an x-acto knife, or using file sandpaper (this method produces the most fine powder, in my experience). Some pastels are soft enough to just use with a brush right off the stick/pan. You can also use pastels with a touch of water for bolder, finer lines.

The pastels will adhere to the surface of the resin, provided that you sprayed it first. Work in layers to build up the color slowly to avoid uneven color and dusty application (unless, of course, that's the look you are after!).

 

I was wondering right in these days if I could use my Staedtler Fimo gloss varnish I have at home, that is exactly like this:



http://www.denofangels.com/forums/s...varnish-use-for-resin?p=11419129#post11419129

and reading this [post #4]

it looks is ok?
I think it could be a good varnish for bjd resin, as polymer clay have plastic components and also bjd polyurethane resin have somehow plastic components too. Also, I read components for the most recommended varnish for bjd which is Liquitex water glossy varnish, but reading the instructions it says is a permanent varnish and it looks even more 'strong' varnish compared the fimo varnish, that is water based and instructions says that is scratch resistant, so not so permanent, and this made me think is varnish even more gentler than Liquitex, so it should be ok! But now that I read that someone else have already tested on bjd resin, make me feel more comfortable to use it on my doll's lips! ^^
(In any case, I'll do a little more test on the inside cap of my doll head to see if after dried , it's easily removable with acetone-free and see if it leave some stains or not) ^^

 

I hope I can post this here... I recently got these on eBay... seemed a great price even if they're the wrong kind of brushes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30101407963...49&var=600166869321&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

Nail polish? Is that safe, then? Because I do have some clear polish, and it would be going on over my existing matte varnish...

 

[MENTION=69358]cleverLC[/MENTION], I have not heard of nail polish being recommended. Aside from the fact that it will tend toward rapid discoloring (yellowing, since it's not meant for long-term use after all), it could have other reactions or undesirable effects.

I use a little jar of Tamiya X-22 gloss. It's really inexpensive and, since the areas that get glossed are quite small, will last a very long time. I'm fairly sure I've had this specific jar since about a year into my time in the hobby, and I both haven't used it up and haven't had it dry out.

 

Guise don't forget about a respirator you want to get one that is an n-95 and you can change the cartridges for organic vapors. Sealers like MSC and Testors are very harmful for your lungs!! Also buy cotton gloves so you don't smudge your pastels and leave oil from your hands onto your dolls!

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

Don't! Human make up has oils that will stain your doll. Soft pastels or chalk pastels have a wide variety of colors and sometimes for cheaper than make up!

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

Oh no no no! Human make up have oils that stain resin use soft pastels or chalk pastels.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

[MENTION=27163]vicemage[/MENTION], OMG thank you. My doll hasn't arrived yet, but...well, now I know what gloss to use.

 

Hi all! I have a question about the Liquitex Flow Aid. Do I have to mix it with distilled water? 1 part of LFA x 10 parts of distilled water? Is it ok like?

Thank you!

 

Try reading through this thread: /threads/acrylic-paint-thinner-what-to-use-and-how-to-use-it.5022

 

Thank you so much!!

 

I hope the information you need is there!

 

Mmmm I am sure it is but my English is not good and there are words than the translator doesn't work.

I hope here someone can ask to my question

 

I found a post by a faceup artist, @AmyAngel, that says Flow-Aid should be diluted 1 part to 20 parts of distilled water: /threads/how-to-thin-acrylic-paints-for-fine-lines.318071/#post-5205614

 

thanks! You are so kind! I was reading the other thread you posted! I have all info I need now I have to try it