Sewing What are things you wish you had known when you first started sewing for dolls?

Go slow. If you haven't found the option to make your machine move at snail speed, it's time to look it up and pray your machine has it!

 

I wish I was more patient to baste things together before making the final seams! 1/4 clothes are tiny enough that pins are not always enough to hold fiddler bits in place and it makes hard to reach places so much easier to get to. It also goes in line with what nyaaain said above, going slow is what you want anyway!

Something I refuse to learn myself is that thinner fabrics really make a huge difference with the fit and drape and you'll most probably be happier with the outcome.

 

1. Start simple!
I know, I know; those elaborate ball gowns and that fantasy armor and the fully lined eight pocket trench coats are what made us want to sew in the first place, but nobody actually starts there.
There is no shame in basic garments and it is so much more rewarding to make one simple thing that turns out well and is actually usable than to sit there with a pile of not-quite-there-yet things no matter how cool the original design is. (Guess how I know that? )

2. Keep going.
Every project has it's low points. Some part of the process is uninspireing or tedious and feels like it is taking forever. It gets easier with practice, but until then the only way to the end is through it. Not every stage of the process is glamourous, adjust expectations acordingly.

3. Evaluate as you go.
If something isn't working out, try to identify why. Too often beginners get stuck on things that are actually easily solved, so ask for advice if you can't figure it out yourself. It can be a lack of experience, true, but it can also be a faulty tool, inapropriate materials or something else that is actually not at all on you.

4. Add one new thing at a time.
While this is not an absolute rule, it's a thing to aim for.
Let's say you are completely new, no experience what so ever. Learn tiny hems by making a table cloth. Now make a simple apron, using that skill and also learn how to measure something to fit your doll and make a simple pattern. Then perhaps learn how to make ruffles, or a patch pocket, or fabric painting for the next apron, using the pattern you made before, And so on.
If you want to add several new techniques, at least try them out on scraps before comitting to the real project so that you know you have a good chanse to get it right. Fail Faster. If something isn't going to work out, you'd ideally want to know that before you've wasted a lot of time and materials on it, right?

5. No matter what you do, some things will go wrong.
The best sewing advice I've ever heard was this: Most things can be compensated for and compromized with in some way. Skill can be compensated for by time, quality materials can be compensated by skill and time can be saved with better tools, but there is one thing that you will need, no matter what else you've got. It is something that makes you pick the project back up when something's gone wrong. It can be patience, stubbornness, pride or plain old insanity, but you need something. Otherwise you projects will stall and you will find yourself with countless unfinished projects.

There are tons of sewing advice for sewing small things specifically, but I think most of those are better solved as you come to them, as listing every single useful tip would be a lot. But don't hesitate to ask for specifics as you need them. This forum has a lot of skilled people who are usually very quick and happy to help!

 

The best thing about learning to sew is that your skill increases the more you practice. Even your first attempts, even if they are a failure, help you improve. I started with felt. It is a very easy fabric to use for beginners. You can find a lot of patterns and tutorials on pinterest or youtube. Making simple patterns like boots, socks...for my dolls and now after so many years I dare to sew almost everything or trying everything I imagine. Lots of encouragement! And patiente! Its a very useful skill sewing!

 

Transfer your patterns onto fabric accurately, a couple of millimeters in either direction can make a finished item too tight or too loose.
The outside line of the pattern should be cut off so that your markings (onto your fabric) replace the line giving a true size.
Also it is easier to sew accurately if you then remove the seem allowance in the same manner (removing the line) and then sew directly on your marked line on your fabric.

 

Sewing small, for me anyway, isn't as bad as people make it out to be. Not being intimidated by it honestly was a huge step for me!

As for specific tips I have... Fabric glue. I use it to hold little bits together while sewing, like those super fiddly rolled hems, and not as a seam. Make sure it's not too thick, and wait for it to fully dry before sewing. You can transfer liquid glue to a bottle with a finer tip for more precision.
A Sticky Situation: All About Glue Sticks

Another thing that helps with little bits is not cutting them out until after you've sewn them! This also helps with keeping those tiny corners from getting sucked into the machine LOL. It's hard to describe in words, but for sewing a pair of socks for example, I would trace my pattern onto the fabric, SKIP cutting them out, pinning the two pieces together, and then sew them up. Afterwards, I cut them out and turn! You can also add maneuverability using tissue paper – put it under your piece while sewing, and gently pull the paper off when you're done. Try a test piece if you're not sure if the material will tear away.
Using Tissue Paper to Stabilise Delicate Fabrics

Lastly, and probably not the response anyone wants, but... learning when to just suck it up and buy it. (If and when you're sewing for a standard size doll, anyway!) I spent way too much of my energy and printer ink on things that just weren't doable with my limited resources. Unless you really enjoy the extra practice, LOL.

 

Everyone has already given lots of solid advice here so I'll just add.

When doing tasks like sewing and crafting I like to remember the saying "perfection is the enemy of good".
Things are never 100% perfect in life, and sometimes in trying for perfect you can over look something that is actually really good.
Maybe the project didn't come out 100% like the pattern or maybe you had the sizing a little off one way or the other. Yes that can mean starting over, but you also might also have have something worth keeping. Something that did in fact come out really good in spite of whatever missteps. Also sometimes you can only get a close enough effect in scaling things down for dolls. So still good to remember that saying.

 

I'll second start simple! You can make some really cute things from basic shapes that will let you get the basics downs without worrying about more complicated details and fitting issues.

Prewash your fabrics. Fabrics from the store have generally been treated with various sizing chemicals from the weaving/ printing processes and to help them lay on the bolt in an appealing way, and they will effect how the fabric feels and hangs when made into a garment. It also helps reduce the likelihood of your garment shrinking after washing, though that's more of an issue with full sized garments and not doll clothes.

Pay attention to the grainline of the fabric. The grainline runs paralell to the selvedge edge, and cutting your pieces off grain can effect not only how things go together, but also the fit and how they lay on a body.

Being aware that while making things yourself is fun, it's not always the most economical, either in terms of time or money. Fabric and notions and trims can be expensive, and sewing things takes time. I would suggest trying to keep your expectations realistic. If you're wanting to sew things to save money, it may help to break down all your costs compared to whether you can find a similar garment already made. Sometimes it really is easier/ more economical to buy something that's already been made instead of trying to make it yourself and getting frustrated if you can't, especially when you're just starting out. And buying something gives you the added benefit of being able to study how it's made so that when you do have more experience under your belt, you can more easily make your own.

 

Don't be afraid of using glue. Make sure to test the glue on fabric before hand to see how it absorbs.

Also sealing the edges of fabric can help alot with preventing fraying.

 

I bought a dress pattern off of Ebay and it suggested using elastic thread for gathering. I, in my inexperience, didn’t know that was a thing. What a difference it made!

 

When sewing shorts or pants make sure you follow the pattern/directions, otherwise the crotch will not turn out right at all! O_o;;;;

 

Everyone's already given so many great tips, here's my takes

-Persist, and be okay with ''okay'' results. Perfect takes time and practise.
-Fray check! Oh gosh it's so helpful when sewing thin and easily fraying fabrics. I suppose fabric glue or even school glue would do the trick well enough too!
-Basting really is worth it, and I regret not picking it up earlier.
-Tracing your pattern on the fabric with precision, using a very fine marker or even a pencil. Pinning the pattern on the fabric sometimes bunches things up, so I use hex nuts to weigh down my patterns
-Wash your fabrics before sewing!!! This is in my opinion the most important tip. Yes, because of the chemicals in the fabrics, but more importantly to reduce the risk of dyes transferring onto your doll! I usually give my dark fabrics a good overnight soak before washing to get all the excess dye out.
-Research. The internet is so full of incredible, life saving sewing tips. How to deal with knit fabrics, chiffons and other difficult materials. I wish I'd realized sooner that I can just look up how to sew this that and the other

 

A lot of good things have been covered already, so I'll just add things I didn't see so far.

- You may end up drafting your own patterns for certain pieces, but don't panic! Look up or buy patterns for humans, look at the different shaped pieces, and read how they fit together. Sew a couple patterns designed for dolls to start. Once you've got the hang of how to think in 3D, you'll be making your own patterns in no time.

- Remember, dolls are solid. This is something I feel a lot of beginners don't take into account. Dolls are solid pieces of resin, they can't wriggle into clothes or tuck in parts of themselves, and they don't squish. This means you may have to make things bigger in certain places in order to fit. This applies highly to the groin in male dolls and the chest in female dolls.

- Before you sew anything for a doll, play around with your machine. Learn how it works, its quirks (they all have them), and how the different settings affect the outcome of the stitches. Learn how to control the fabric going into the needle, and learn how to control the speed of the machine. These things can be anxiety-inducing at first, so it's best to get a handle on them before you put your nice fabric into the machine.

- Youtube is your friend. I've learned so much about sewing just by searching things on Youtube. Anytime I run into a snag, that's where I go.

- Don't be scared, no one is judging you. Your first outfit doesn't need to look like a professional made it. You're going to make abominations. It's all fine, just part of the learning process.

 

I learned a lot about sewing doll clothes from following some other fashion doll patterns. There are a few Japanese books that include patterns & instructions, and those really helped me gain an understanding of construction processes. So I knew which pattern pieces I needed and in which order to construct them. This gave me a better basis for adapting patterns and drafting my own.

 

How to start taking measurements first before making the patterns of the clothes. Till fast forward,I researched and found this YouTuber that take measurements and sketch the patterns. In order to match it and the sewn together properly.

 

How addictive it would be! I have sewn for 9 different sizes of dolls (both on- and off-topic here), and each one has its own challenges and rewards.

But you probably want advice:

Spandex is the absolute devil to sew with if you're not using the right needle. If you have a sewing machine, buy the needle labeled "Stretch" and USE IT. It really does make a huge difference.

The bigger the doll, the less finicky you have to be about getting your seams EXACT. An MSD and a Pukipuki are vastly different sizes, and as such, there's a world of difference between being off 2mm on an MSD's shirt, and being off 2mm on a Pukipuki's shirt. If you have bigger dolls, start with them first.

Most doll companies (and the DoA wiki!) list the exact measurements of your doll's waist, bust, hips, etc. Feel free to use those, not just for drafting patterns, but also to see whether the outfit you made for Doll A will fit Doll B!

 

I would suggest starting with easy fabrics first. Something non slippery like a normal cotton will be much easier to cut and sew than chiffon for example. Thin wool is also good as it's often not going to fray.

Learn to iron your projects. The time you will be doing that is often much less than trying to go without. Opening seams, folding seams for finishing etc. For small items with curves make a tailors ham and use it. The preparation work for sewing in general is more important than you might think and also makes the sewing more enjoyable.

Don't be afraid of hand sewing. With small seams and especially finishing work hand sewing is often way easier than trying to sew with a machine. Get a quality needle and a thimble (i prefer leather thimbles to metal ones). The sewing thread also makes a difference. For any fabrics that are thick enough for it, I highly suggest a waxed linen thread. For more delicate fabrics silk thread is very good. If you cannot get these threads I would opt for cotton thread over polyester for hand sewing.

Edit: I make mostly historical of historically inspired clothing so these tips might not be the best for more modern fabrics or for fabrics that have a lot of stretch.

 

Seconding that on hand sewing. It really is easier for a lot of parts, especially at scale 1/4 and under. Find a thimble that actually fits you, learn some stitches, and it will help so much. I think it's Bernadette Banner who's done some videos on basics? Very well worth checking. It has saved my will to sew for smaller scales

 

I agree you don't need a sewing machine! Especially if you're making clothes for smaller dolls than SD or 70cm - I've made all my doll's clothes by hand so far and even sewed myself a shirt by hand - you don't need a machine. If I'm sewing a long seam though I'll put a couple of sticking plasters/elastoplast on my left thumb and right middle finger (I'm right handed) so they're less likely to get stabbed. Even so I usually draw blood LOL because I sew too fast! It does take a while to become quick at hand sewing, using your right pinkie finger to get the tension on stitches firm but not too firm etc. but it's a very soothing, meditative pastime if you're not in a desperate hurry for something.

Other things worth knowing are getting the weight of the fabric right for the scale of the doll so it drapes well enough to look realistic. I don't pre-wash fabrics as my doll's clothes are not going to get washed and very unlikely to get dirty. For this reason too, I don't make seams as well finished or strongly constructed as I would on a human garment - Inside my doll's clothes everything frays but it doesn't matter as it won't get any wear and tear really.

And I also don't try to construct doll clothes like I construct human clothes now. I bought a vintage Barbie doll sewing pattern by Simplicity I think it was - which had lots of neat construction ideas suitable for dolls if not humans - especially when making trousers or pants! But it depends on what level of realism you are going for with your dolls - I'm more impatient than perfectionist

 

My favorite YouTube channel for doll sewing is Step by Step with Lily: https://www.youtube.com/@stitchbystitchwithlily8901. Lily is the (off topic) Blythe doll. I don’t know what the human’s name is but Lily’s mom is adorbs! She offers a free pattern with each video, which will fit Yo SDs. The clothes are hand sewn. I’m sharing the channel as inspiration - Lily’s mom has been sewing a long time. The videos anre in Korean with are English subtitles.

As has been mentioned, hand sewing takes practice and patience. I’m a lifelong sewist by machine and I still find hand sewing…tedious and difficult. Even with the struggles, it’s a great feeling when you create a nice little garment. Individual pieces don’t take much time from cutting to trying on. In a few weekends, you can create a cute lil wardrobe.

I recommend starting with woven 100% cotton fabric, aka quilting fabric. It’s quite forgiving and you can find patterns that scale nicely for dolls. Prewashing it will make it softer but it’s up to you. You can also use old clothes. The bonus with upcycling is the dyes are long gone.

It may be tempting to start with a tee shirt, but knits are stretchy. Get a few items made with woven fabric first. Pants, shorts, sundresses, vests, skirts are great places to start.

Get a craft iron for about $20 US. It’s smaller than a standard iron, making it perfect for doll clothes. Pressing after each step will help the final garment look nice.

The assembly sequence for doll clothes is a bit different from sewing human sized clothes.

Happy sewing!

 

This is off topic to the thread, but about prewashing: Please do it!
It's not all about stainging and avoiding surprises when washing the garment later. A much more important reason is to get rid of the dirt resistant and flame retardant treatments that all fabrics are given when new. Rules vary across the globe, but a lot of the time it's actually illegal to bulk ship fabric without it because of the fire hazard. This stuff can increase the risk of some types on cancer and can damage your air ways if breathed in. It's not a big deal if you just handle it a bit and then wash your hands, but when sewing your will be cutting the fabric, releasing dust into the air and this will get into your lungs. It will also settle on the floor. If you have small children or free roaming pets they will also get into contact with it.
Please, please, pleaste prewash your fabrics before cutting!

 

I believe it would be helpful to spend some time acquiring knowledge about tools for making doll clothes. For example, understanding which types of fabric are suitable for doll clothes, as well as the appropriate sizes of needles and threads.

 

Very helpful!

 

Wow!!! Thank you for posting!

 

Start with cotton, and when you get to silk and other slippery fabrics, spray starch on them, it will make them move way less and can later be washed out of the finished garment.

 

Great idea!

 

The right needle is more important than you think and getting good needles is absolutely worth it. Good quality thread is also a worthwhile investment but colour matching is only important if the thread is going to show.

With sewing machines the right needle for the type of fabric can be annoying to change out but it's worth it. Not just machine sewing either, for a long time while hand sewing I'd just use cheap and cheerful needles from a variety pack which did the job. Then on a whim I picked up a small packet of really good quality needles, the difference was surprising and now I won't use anything else for most general sewing.

Oh, also, quilting clips and miniature binder clips (the ones that look like a handbag) are a brilliant alternative to pins on a smaller scale. Cheap and cheerful works for pins with most fabric but if you want to work with finickier fabrics then also find some superfine pins meant for silk.

Mockups are a lifesaver.

Frixion pens and kids washable markers are both great for marking fabric. Obviously test first as the markers can wick and I wouldn't use either on more delicate fabrics but for mockups, they're brilliant because of the variety of colours.

 

Very helpful! Thank you!

 

MAKE MOCKUPS. This is a hard lesson I've only just started learning. I can check a doll's measurements again and again, but being able to adjust a pattern before using your nice fabric is a serious lifesaver.

 

Scale, is EVERYTHING.
Most importantly in the weight and drape of the fabrics you choose.

I know that fabric pattern scale can matter a lot as well, but to me, scaling fabric weight is the most important factor by far.

Most fabrics that we ourselves wear, will read and act like stiff cardboard when used for tiny doll shirts, sleeves, skirts etc., and they will bulkily and oddly stand away from the doll body rather than nicely draping around it.

My sewing results are much more successful when I use the lightest lawn cotton fabrics, very lightweight jersey, and 8 to 12 momme silks.

I look for second hand silk scarves, and for lawn cotton fabrics that people use to sew heirloom infant clothing, things like that.
You can stabilize these flimsy thin fabrics by laying a piece of tissue paper on the feed dogs and metal plate under your needle on the sewing machine, and then laying your fabric you are sewing atop the paper. You then sew your fabric seam and the paper together, and when done, the tissue paper easily tears away from the seam you made ( needle has made perforation holes), but has prevented your thin fabrics from getting eaten by your machine.

The paper also helps by adding a large area on which to lower your pressure foot and start and end your seam, very handy when trying to sew tiny little pattern pieces together! While those tiny pieces are laying on the larger piece of tissue, you can then turn/manipulate the tissue paper without having to put your fingers near your machine needle and tiny fabric bits to follow curved lines etc.

Beetta in a dress made out of 8 momme habotai silk (undyed)

IMG_5980 by tanjalalie, on Flickr

 

1.Needle thickness matters a lot. "Heavy duty" needles are really bad to sew the delicate fabrics that are common for bjd clothes. You'll have a hard time conducting it on the sewing table

2. Fabric GSM matters a lot. Less than 200 is ideal, otherwise the fabric will be too stiff on your doll and will look like cardboard. For yosds I'd go even less, 100 or lower if possible

3. Bias cut matters a lot. When we sew for these dolls we're always struggling against the drape, trying to prevent it from looking "stiff". So manipulating the fabric with bias cuts is important

4.Bjds have stiff bodies that doesn't "squish" like how human bodies do. Which means, corsetry, tight dresses and the such need a little extra thought on planning

5. Little droplets of cyanoacrylate glue (super glue?) on the tip of a toothpick can work ok as fabric anti-fray

6. It's best to bastestitch everything you're going to do, because sewing for miniatures makes every millimeter so important. One or two millimeters off the mark (very common to happen in glossy fabrics like satin) can end in disaster as errors keep pilling up. So bastestitch since the start prevents said errors from pilling up

 

My two cents. I see a lot of dresses clothes that are both complicated and have a "busy" pattern on the fabric. What I found works best is: complicated designs with simple (usu. one colour) fabrics and simple designs with complicated patterns. You can use this to your advantage and after you learn the basics on a plain (one coloured fabric) you can go for a crazy one. Simple things will automatically look better with "busy" pattern and will rarely need fancy additions or designs.

- YES! Muslin is a great thing for it, it basically was created for that very purpose. :P

- agreed! I have bought a bunch of beautiful scarves and turned them into skirts - you can't really tell they are from scarves.

As for stabilising - I know there is a water soluble paper for sewing delicate fabrics and I don't know how about my country, but I know these are defo available in the U.S. The paper dissolves right after damping it slightly in the water.

I also would recommend using sewing tape - which is basically a tape of glue you apply onto both pieces of material and iron them for the effect. You can start with this and then go ahead and stich the material - haven't tried this one but I have tried the tape itself - it's pretty strong.

 

(I'm still a novice sewer and usually sewing for 1/6 scale but) Fray Check is my best friend! And also fabric glue, for hems -- especially at the small scale I usually sew, stitched hems are not worth it

 

I use Fabri-Tac -- can be found on Amazon and probably many other places. I dot it on with a toothpick, rather than trying to squeeze out a line of glue -- that helps me not use too much and prevents unsightly globs or see-throughs.

 

I'm a novice sewist and I'm disabled. My hands swell so sewing can be very difficult for me. One thing I forced myself to stop doing was looking at sewing for my dolls as being just like sewing for humans. I'd be trying to make the most complicated things and it just didn't work.

It's for a DOLL.

It doesn't have to look like it came out of the latest Vogue spread.

Simplify, simplify, simplify!

Fake it if necessary!

I've learned that I don't need to do everything you'd have to do on a piece of human clothing on clothing for a doll and I've learned to MacGyver a lot when it comes to getting the dolls dressed.

I've been known to hit the thrift store to buy some baby and toddler clothes and cut and alter them down to fit the dolls. I do the same with doll clothes not meant for BJDs.

Whatever works and fits how I want them to look theme-wise is fine. If I run into something I can't do well then I change it up to something I can do.

I'm just not into fiddling with tiny zippers on skirts. Or putting in fancy waistlines. I can just put a string tie in the top of a skirt and use it to gather it at the waist. Put a shirt over it and it looks great!

Again it's a DOLL. Clothes for a doll don't always have to be that complex. Clothes for a doll don't need to be as tough and durable as human clothes. I keep it as simple as possible because it keeps the frustration level down especially when I don't feel well.

If you're a really good sewist and you can handle making complex historically accurate clothes from complicated patterns I salute you! But that's just not me and I've learned to not take on more than I can handle.

Sometimes I think with this hobby that we forget it's supposed to be fun. We get so caught up in trying to do everything perfectly that we spend too much and expect too much from ourselves.

If it's too much then back off and try to simplify. Don't take on something that is going to make you feel stupid and frustrated if there is an easier way to accomplish your goal.

Remember it's a DOLL and sometimes you can fake it and it will still look good.