Accessories The Shoemakers' Circle

I baked the Victorian heels inside a silicone press mold but it was not very successful. The clay seems crumbly . I think there was a chemical reaction from my DIY silicone mold. I think I'll try making a resin casting some day.

A mold that I could use with poured resin would be nicer but the polmer clay is easy to work with and less toxic. I had good luck making a high heel using polyclay to form the shape and then remove the soft clay from the open mold to bake. This what my open mold looks like. The clay I used was pretty hard (not real soft like some clays) and I used a pin to pry it out of the mold. Talc powder keeps it from sticking to the mold.

shoe mold by Linda, on Flickr

A tube type heel could be made by stuffing clay into a paper mold. The paper could be peeled off after baking

 

Latex molds--
I was reading a updated Kindle version of Tarja's "Techniques for making doll shoes"
This method is new to me (I just updated the Kindle version of the book). She makes a master of the heel shape. Then she coats the master with latex. Then she makes a support for the latex mold with plaster. After the plaster hardens, she stuffs the latex with polymer clay while the latex is in the plaster support. Then she removes the clay stuffed latex from the plaster support. Then she removes the formed clay from the latex and bakes the clay. The trick to removing the clay stuffed latex is adding a extra bit of latex padding to allow the latex to squish when removing the stuffed mold from the hardened plaster support.
I don't recall seeing this method before I did the Kindle update. I am definitely going to give this a try for molding my "Victorian" heels!

 

That sounds ingenious. Having the separate latex layer would also make the whole assembly easier to remove from the plaster mold, while the latex "sleeve" remains flexible and stretchy and can be peeled off easily. My girls don't wear heels or I'd give that a try


In the meantime I got my hands on more black craft foam, so look what's finished!


That was some precision dremeling, smoothing the edges of the black foam without nicking the leather ... but it went okay for the most part. Anyway, they're done. Just the trainers left now ...

 

... and because I wasn't happy with the first pair of sandals, I made another. I like these much better!

 

There are some shoe patterns in an old out of print book called The Dolls Dressmaker the complete pattern book by Venus A Dodge ISBN: 0-7153-9289-1 it comes up on Amazon second hand now and then, now its not bjd sized but its a jumping off point for starting out, that said there is no construction information in this book so its back to you tube but its ok. The book is based around heavier weight dolls like American girl kind of thing but its got a lot of clothing patterns for a range of doll sizes too so if you don't mind tweeking for a while its worth a look.

Ok I'm gonna ask the newbie question, so pls forgive me if its a dumb one, If the companies sell assorted feet for the bjd dolls, is it possible to buy JUST feet? How come you are creating from scratch instead of just buying spare feet as your lasts? Asking respectfully honest.

Promise I'm not throwing rocks, I get if you are trying to create a last in a different material so you can pin into it and so on. if that is your goal may I offer paper clay as a substrate for a last, once dry it is soft light and has the consistency of funky foam so should be pinable. Would work with your moulds taken from existing feet if you are already doing that.

Other newbie question reactions
I know nothing about resin, hands up, there it is. but here goes
Since different plastics being in contact with each other can have chemical reactions over time, are you having to be careful about what is in direct contact with your dolls feet for the shoes themselves. Polymerclay contains plastics, I don't know how they react long term to the resin.

just asking

 

This video is great for giving a overview of the whole shoe making process from adjusting the last shape to finishing the shoe. It is for humans but very instructive and may apply to miniature shoe making depending on how detailed you want your shoes to be.


@RavensWing You do have to be careful of plastics making contact with resin long and short term. I do not have polyclay touching my doll's feet. There is always a layer of fabric and paper added to the polyclay sole when I make doll shoes. Polyclay should never touch resin before it is baked either. I put a layer of saran wrap, tin foil or painters masking tape before shaping clay against my doll's resin "skin".
I make a last because number one, the glue is messy. And number two, my doll has really detailed feet. I need to simplify the sole shape so I can make a shoe base that is symmetrical (right and left) and allows for heel height. My upper pattern is made to fit the custom made shoe base. The arch and toe parts of my last are curved to make a more realistic looking shoe. The curves to the shoe base make the upper follow the curves of the foot better. It just makes a nicer look than a flat shoe base or sole. The arch support and heel height balance allows the doll to stand easily if everything is aligned properly.
The last allows you to make the toe shape and heel height different. I love your suggestion of using paperclay! I will give that a try. Walkercolours makes a thin papermache cast of her doll's feet. Maybe that could serve as a shape to gently fill with paperclay and then you have a pinable last! I am going to give this a try.

 

Oh WOW did you make that boot in the video you posted. willhave a good watch when its not quite so hot in here. I used to work in retail so know about footwear production up to a point. DOn't know if its a universal sweet but if you had those foam (marshamllow of some kind) edible sweets as kids called pink shrimps then paper clay reminds me a bit of that. I've seen it but not used it.

One thing do you use acid and lignin free cardstock ofr the insoles? as both can leach from regular or low grade cardstock over time. I know some scrapbooking card is acid and lignin free so won't leach acids over time and you can get archival greyboard too. (bookbinding is my other hobby)

Im not going to have the dexterity to sew such small shoes n might have to go the hot glue option but your results everyone are incredible.

Have you found Crop a dile by we r memory keepers for punching holes through pretty much anything and setting eyelets?

much respect to all. thanks for your advice

 

@RavensWing That is a Russian video, not mine. No way I could do that!
I just use recycled packaging cardboard or cut up file cards and cover the paper with silk or cotton fabric. If you have acid free it's probably better.
Hot glue is very good to hold soles on but it is hard to use hot glue to glue uppers to inner sole. I like Fabritac glue for gluing upper to inner sole. It is a very strong glue and you can pull it around before it sets up.
I use a hole punch that is made to install snaps. Like this https://www.walmart.com/ip/GHP-Leat...with-100-Belt-Grommets-Button-Snaps/113430388 I have a eyelet setter that comes with it's own punch too. I just pound it with a hammer. Use what ever you have and have fun! There are a million ways to make shoes!

 

Thanks, I've not watched it yet, but will do. I can't say i've ever used hot glue but there is one in the house....somewhere

 

lutsenko_dolls on Instagram has video shorts of how they create bjd shoes, don't know if the information would help but thought to share. Dear moderators, the information is relevant and not advertising (please be kind to this post ^^' ).

 

That video gives a really good insight how high-quality shoes are made. That is basically how I made my first pair of cowboy boots. My lasts are made of Apoxie. Basically I casted my dolls's feet in Apoxie and used these as a base. Only problem is you can't exactly use it like wooden or plastic lasts - the soles can't be clamped to give them shape. So I had to drill holes in the sole leather, then boil it and sew it to my last. A bit different, but caused the same effect. That way, you can only use vegetable leather to get the desired result of a shaped shoe.

All my other shoes (workboots, army boots and dress shoes) are only stitched to shape. It works, but certain shapes are difficult to achieve. On the one hand, I would love to have a leather sewing machine. But I am not sure it can do the tiny stitches necessary to look good.

 

@Ipledreamer Sorry it this sound know it all but you don't necessarily need an expensive leather sewing machine to sew leather for bjd shoes. I'd recommend some of the 'all metal' vintage sewing machines (can really recommend the Singer 201 as the best one I've found), they are easy to find second hand and often inexpensive to purchase. Properly maintained these sewing machines can sew thought multiple layers of leather and some can do truly tiny wonderful stitches .

 

Or those old pedal machines. I bought one of those at a flea market ages ago, specifically for sewing leather, because the mechanical pedal allows more control.
Most household machines can sew thin leather with the right needle. So far my "modern" machine has been able to handle everything I've thrown at it, hence why the poor old beauty is still standing around un-fixed

 

Hm, yeah, I googled it. As I live in Germany, these are also insanely inexpensive. Too much for the amount I make (I only make a pair when one of my dolls need them. Or maybe for a swap).

 

Im guessing it needs mechanical rather than the computer driven machines. Not tried it with my Brother machine but you can get mechanical plastic machines, not all are computer driven tho lots are. I got mine to make bags so wanted something that I could manually operate too

 

Unlurking to chime in on the sewing machine discussion: If you're looking to sew thinner leathers with a modern machine, I would highly recommend a Husqvarna Emerald! It's not computerized and has a metal frame, and I've managed some basic leather sewing on it (I haven't made anything in a doll scale yet, though). I purchased mine a while back when my all-plastic Brother machine started falling apart. Anyways, just my 2 cents after putting in a bunch of research about newer sewing machines~

 

coming from a bookbinding background can I offer a suggestion of thinning the leather in areas you will be layering. Do this by shaving the suede side of the leather down a bit. How well this works depends on the quality of your leather, if its good leather it will take it, if its second cut leather then it will be low grade and less stable and more prone to tearing. I can explain what second cut leather is but don't wanna gross anyone out.

 

Hello! I figured I'd probably make my way to this thread at some point and today is the day! I just finished making my first pair of shoes for my Saint. I used a modified version of this pattern: SD BJD poulain medieval shoes I knew straight away the leather I had used was far too thick, and look I'll be honest there's so many things wrong with these shoes, BUT he stands solidly in them and that is a success in itself. Would I be able to get some constructive criticism and any hints for the next pair I attempt? I've already had a bit of a browse through this thread and I definitely want to try making soles out of clay or foam next time instead of thick cardboard.

Spoiler: Click here for some large photos!

WP_20180807_16_22_45_Rich by Liz, on Flickr

WP_20180807_16_51_40_Rich by Liz, on Flickr

WP_20180807_16_52_25_Rich by Liz, on Flickr

WP_20180807_16_52_58_Rich by Liz, on Flickr

 

Wow! Those are fantastic shoes! How can you not LOVE them? I love the shape color and texture! Really wonderful! I would love to see the whole outfit you create to go with!


OK so here is my attempt to make another pair of shoes. Leather is thick but I wanted them sturdy enough to not collapse at the heel. I sewed the upper starting at the arch to anchor the upper to the inner sole. The inner sole always wants to back up toward the heel when I am sewing the upper. I think it's better to anchor at the arch first then work on tacking down the rest of the shoe base.

I sewed all stitches by hand using a thin needle and all purpose thread. The stitching is a running stitch and then I went back through each stich to cover the gaps. It's tedious but seems to be nice and strong. I could not sew that toe curve on the machine

I used a pattern from scargeear SD BJD (Soom Supergem) mocasines The upper toe (vamp) area was narrowed (I pleated out a section at the part the crosses over the foot arch) and I removed the seam at the toe. It worked great for my shoe last after I scaled it to fit using my scanner and printer.

 

@tinyseams - Thank you so much! I made them using some scrap leather I had lying around. I'll share a photo of the whole look after the convention this weekend, I'm trying to keep it a secret until the great reveal on Saturday.

Next time I think I'll try and make the shoe on the foot similar to how you're doing it - mine turned out to be a little odd and not quite how I envisioned them. They fit, and they're not going to fall off, but I imagine they wouldn't be comfortable.

 

Haha Can't have uncomfortable shoes now can we? lol I think the same way as you, I feel sorry for my dolls when it is cold and they are not wearing sweaters. I am NOT kidding! lol
Oooooh I can not wait to see the whole outfit!

 

Got something new in the works:



I was going to use a different kind of fake leather, but that got lost somewhere ... this is recycled material, super stretchy and not my first choice for a reason. They still need their finishing touches, obviously, and I think I'm going to make some higher ones now that I know what to do differently next time:
- try and get the toes to point slightly upward (even if that goes against the doll's foot shape)
- reinforce / line the front of the uppers and add the decorative topstitching
- make toe / heel caps a bit smaller, they look way too big.

 

Very nice black boots @Jany ! You are so productive. I still have to finish my loafers with heels and sole. How long does it take to make the boots you just showed? It is easy to see you are getting the hang of shoe making and are quite good at it. It is always inspiring and motivating to see your work and read your comments.

 

Thank you! Lots of that is thanks to you guys though, picking up tips instead of reinventing the wheel helps loads.

I couldn't say how long those took as I've been working on them a while at a time over the course of several days ... I'm only really productive during holidays And I tend to lose track of time. The hand-sewing probably took the longest (I didn't trust my machine with the stretchy fabric so I did the topstitching by hand), that in itself was probably an hour. That could be sped up by using a machine, though. All in all, not counting glue drying times ... two or three hours? Not terribly long, compared to some sewing projects.

 

The hand sewing does take a long time. I loose track of time while I am doing it so I don't know how long it takes to make my shoes either but it is a few hours usually. I glued up my second loafer and am looking for some sole material. I may resort to making clay soles again. The clay works pretty well since I can shape it to fit.

I just worked on a old project using a pattern from scargeear again. Her Viking shoes pattern had me stumped and I could not figure out how to assemble them. This is what I came up with finally. They will get an outfit to go with someday. I have been trying to figure how to sew Viking pants. Viking patterns are always a puzzle to assemble when you are just looking at flat patterns.
WIP doll shoes Viking sort of by Linda, on Flickr

 

Here are my finished loafers. I made the soles from poly clay and stuck them using liquid poly clay which solidifies when baking. I baked the shoe and sole while fitted on my last which gives me a chance to balance the heel so it is flat and doesn't wobble.

Dollshe David shoes by Linda, on Flickr

 

Symmetry-- I noticed my toe point is a little off in the right foot last.
BJD doll shoe last checking symmetry by Linda, on Flickr
So I will adjust with some sanding and add a little polyclay to reshape the toe on my last.

I made some soles from leather and stiffened them with two layers of card stock paper in preparation to make my next pair of boots. My goal was to make the right and left soles mirror identical and create the arch and toe lift using my shoe last as a form to dry and shape the sole. While doing this, I noticed that my toe points do not match each other so I thought I would let you see how this can be checked when making a new style toe point for the last.

 

Looking good, @tinyseams! I especially like the loafers.

edit, I forgot to share the finished boots

 

Beautiful work @Jany ! They look like real leather. I love all the nice top stitching and the perfectly placed eyelets. You even got the tongue the right length! I messed up and cut my tongue too short on a pair of shoes I made so I am impressed.

I worked on reshaping my shoe last and successfully got the toes pointing in a matching position. Now I am making a copy of my last so I can use a second last for another toe shape. I made a "sock" out of saran wrap by sewing saran wrap in a sock shape and then taped over the saran sock on the last to make a copy of the shape of my last. Then I will fill the taped shape with plaster of paris to make a new pair of right and left shoe lasts.
This is what it looks like--my old lasts and the taped copy (ready to be filled with plaster) plus my sock pattern.
shoelast by Linda, on Flickr

I know Walkercolours makes a last using paper mache but the tape is quick and easy and seems to capture enough detail. The nice thing about plaster is it can be baked along with (and used as a form to shape) poly clay.

 

Thank you! I got to confess, the tongue is the result of a lucky guess ... the boots aren't lined (aside from the toe and heel caps) so I added more length, thinking that I could always trim it if it came out too long

Sewing a saran "sock" is genius! I tried wrapping and it did not go well.

 

Haha I love how you seem to go through the same trials and tribulations as I do. It's almost like we are working side by side.

Sewing the sock was a challenge until I tried putting the paper pattern between the folded saran and follow the edge of the paper to sew the seam. It could be hand sewn but I used the machine. Yeah I tried wrapping saran and it was a mess for me too.

Also Walkercolours makes a sock pattern by holding the leg above paper under a light and traces the shadow. That is how I made the pattern.

Cut slashes into the traced pattern to straighten the leg for the fold also

 

Yay for virtual crafting meets / self-help groups

 

Finally some doll time!

I was going to make a couple pairs of shoes from patterns I already have (got an incoming girl and my trainers victim is still barefoot so I was going to make him something simpler for the time being until I figure out how to get the trainers to work) but I can't seem to do the same thing the same way twice so of course I'm fiddling with stuff.

For one thing, I wanted to keep the fusible interfacing (hemming tongues is not fun) but I also want to shape the toes, and fusible interfacing gets in the way of that. So I tried to only interface the tongue part and the top 5mm of the front not-quite-cap, leaving the rest free to stretch around the lasts. (I guess if it looks terrible I can always add toe caps. )
For another, I noticed I need new lasts for the girls... what I do for lasts is I cut out a pair of cardboard soles, stick them underneath the plaster feet with masking tape, and sculpt the lasts on the soles. What's new this time is that while the clay was still soft, I bent the front part slightly upwards - the actual toes won't bend, but anything beyond them will. I'm hoping that'll make the shoes look less flat and doll-ish. Might post a tutorial if it works, as I actually remembered to take progress pics for once ...

OH and @tinyseams I tried a variation on the sock trick for the latest last molds - didn't sew up the cling wrap, but wrapped the top part around my doll's leg and taped it closed with masking tape, then cut down the rest like I was making a sock. Loads better than just wrapping and probably quicker than sewing I used air-dry clay for the lasts so they're not quite dry yet, but they do look better than the others.

 

@Jany Yay! I was hoping you would do a variation on sewing the saran sock. I like your method better because I did tear the saran at the ankle when I put them on. I still need to fill my taped shoe last forms with plaster. Going too do that right now.
I can not wait to see what you do next Jany! You are inspiring!

 

Aw thankya! From my perspective, you're the inspiring one. Good luck with those lasts!

I got the topstitching done, but the new lasts haven't quite dried yet (the one drawback with air-dry clay, it takes its sweet time to fully dry). So we wait ...


... as the workshop has officially taken over the ironing board.

 

Ooo @Jany you are making me get to work--more inspiration haha! I love seeing your set up and all the bits and pieces! I am hoping more people jump in and show what they are doing! @awapple I hope you give it a try!

So I just poured my last and had about a tablespoon of plaster powder left. HA!
I am anxious to see how it turns out. It did not leak too much plaster so that is a good sign. It is very damp today so I will let it sit over night before I demold it.

WIP BJD plaster Shoe last by Linda, on Flickr

 

David looks a bit like a mad scientist / inventor there

I've learned a first 1.5 lessons: The half-interfacing is definitely the way to go, but it wouldn't hurt to make it even smaller - pretty much just the tongue and down the sides of the toe part, leaving as much as possible of the cap free to stretch over the last.
Mike's toe parts are drying, the girls' need to wait until the lasts have hardened enough. Updates tomorrow

 

@Jany I like your idea of interfacing. Did you consider heat and bond to make a sandwich for a lining or using self fabric instead of interfacing? You could still leave the toe area free. I see some real shoe makers pad the toe area between the lining and upper at the toe to give it a bump.

I could not wait so here are my shoe last plaster copies in their raw state. I will sand them (and maybe fill gaps with fimo/poly clay and then bake) and coat with some Elmer's white glue so they don't chalk off. I can make a new toe shape on the second pair so I have two styles of lasts to work on. The originals on the right and copies on the left. I might be able to reuse my tape cast again.

WIP BJD shoe last by Linda, on Flickr

 

I'm not sure I can follow about the interfacing ... partly because I don't know what half of those things are
Right now what I'm doing is what one of the tutorials said - stretch the fabric around the last and stiffen with watered-down white glue. Lining would probably be a lot more elegant, though.

 

Heat and bond is often used for making applique. It has a non stick sheet of paper attached to the sheet of glue. You can pull the sheet of glue from the paper and heat it with a heat gun to melt it. The most common way quilters use it to make applique for quilts. You lightly iron the paper side to the wrong side of fabric. Peel away the fused glue and fabric from the paper backing and then the piece can be cut to shape and used as a applique. The edges will not fray because the glue goes up to the edge. That is why you could use heat and bond for lining and stiffening shoe uppers--you get a fused edge with no turned back seam allowance. In your case of a rounded toe, the toe area could be left free of heat and bond so you can pull the lining and upper fabric separately over the toe area. Just a thought. It is kind of fussy but the extra support heat and bond gives to fabric is nice.

I have used mesh net as a lining fused with heat and bond to quilters cotton and it has just the right amount of stiffness or body.
Here is a pair of shoes I made with quilter's cotton, heat and bond and mesh net sandwiched together to form the shoe upper.
I glued a line of crochet thread to the edges for more finish.
Dollshe Amanda doll shoes by Linda, on Flickr

@MadamMauMau I am super excited to see what you make when you find some time!

 

Ah, I get it! That does sound neat. I've only used iron-on interfacing, but that's a bit stiff ...
Amanda's shoes look super pretty!

 

Beading fringe--
I am reworking a pair of boots (did not fit) I made earlier before having a shoe last to work off of. This time I will use the shoe last to sew the moccasin soles on so they fit the upper coming up around the sides. I will glue in a shaped arch cardboard insole to help keep the shape of the sole (it kept slipping around on the doll's foot before).
I wanted to bead the fringe and was trying to remember a easy way to do it. Here is a pic showing how I used a needle threader to thread the bead on the fringe. This method can be used for adding beads to doll wigs also!
WIP doll shoes beading fringe by Linda, on Flickr

 

Very cool!

 

So pretty, love the beads!

'scuse the stupid question, but how do they close?


edit, in case I haven't mentioned it - Iple feet are ridiculous. The girls can share shoes with most males out there, and don't get me started on the guys. Goodness.

edit 2 - I finished two pairs of shoes and I'm super bummed because the soles still look flat. Maybe the craft foam is too squishy ...? I'm not giving up on this, maybe I'll try double-layered inner soles with wood glue to stiffen them more. But this will not do, no precious.

 

Pattern draft a one piece high heel shoe upper. I found this to be very intriguing.


I finished my beaded moccasin boots. @Jany I sewed bugle beads at the lace up points and laced them (using the beads as latches) with a strip of "leather"

DIY doll shoes by Linda, on Flickr

Now I am fitting a paper shoe made from my last to see if it will fit Amanda. The paper soles are layered card stock shaped to the bottom of my shoe last. Then I taped a paper upper pattern to the shaped sole for Amanda to try on for fit.

making DIY bjd doll shoes by Linda, on Flickr

 

Here is a better pic of my shoe pattern for Amanda Beauty. I have the ankle strap and heel cup fitted along with the toe upper so I think I'll give this a try.

amandashoe by Linda, on Flickr

 

Here is a idea I would try for Wellingtons. Shape some clay on to a doll's foot to look like Wellingtons (cover foot to protect from clay with saran wrap). Make a thin coat paper Mache mold over the clay boot form and cut a slice down the side or back to remove the paper mache after it is dry. Coat the paper mache with plasti dip or coat the boot shape with some vinyl look craft paint. Here is a video with the concept of making a boot shape form.

I think adding a tube made of paper or cardboard to the doll's foot would be good enough the get the leg part of the boot shape. Then add the clay to make the boot shape.

 

Thank you so much for the links! I attempted to make boots for the first time yesterday and they were awful and I tossed them ahaha

 

I've been lurking for a long while and finally built up the courage to jump in. Almost all of my dolls have bigger feet than most companies offer shoes for so I must learn how to make some. I found a way to make lasts is to make an alginate mold of the foot wrapped in saran and then fill with plaster. What I need to do now is figure out how to get different toe shapes and where to add air dry clay to the plaster to achieve the shapes I need. Have you found a better way to make multiple lasts? Any tips on where to find leather or material for making soles? I am currently trying to make some cowboy or boho boots for the flat feet first and when I can figure out how to sculpt heels try it out on the heeled feet. I also tried the mold putty before but when dealing with Iple and Dollshe feet they use up alot of product. I will appreciate all tips, tutorials and help you can provide.

 

I don't know much about lasts but finding leather is a hobby of mine too. You can find that Thrift shops have leather purses that make great soles and uppers, you can also find leather belts for the thicker leather you need for soles. If you find you cant find thick enough leather for heels you can use Shoe Goop to layer it together also works great on adhering low heels to soles.

 

I'm really impressed with the shoes and boots everyone is making. Well done to you all. I'm lurking and learning. my hands don't work well in winter so will research and see what the better weather brings.

 

I really should get my mum to teach me some of her old shoe making methods because she used to make leather shoes and boots for fun. I'm sure I could scale down some of her old patterns as well

 

wow these boots turned out amazing! I really love all the small details, like the laces.

 

I decided to try again to make boots and knew it would take forever if I tried my hand at making lasts so inspiration struck and this happened. So we will see how these turn out before making them for real. My Ringdolls have new feet so using their old ones was an easy thing to do.

Shoe lasts by SteamWitch, on Flickr

 

That's ingenious @SteamWitch !!! Love that stitching, btw~

 

Thank you, I'm all about quick and easy. After I got it all put together I thought I could round it a bit on one side of the bottle, so it was more perpendicular to the sole of the foot. This will work well with my guys with the big legs.
The butt stitch is good, but reminds me of a baseball, lol! I think it will work well but I'll have to alter the pattern a bit.

 

Maybe try a parallel stitch? Then it would be less busy.

Also what always bugs me about DIY doll shoes: it is very hard tonget the toes round. For dress shoes, I always tend to make the toes a bit longer and pointy,and cut slits in the front edge in a certain way. When you stitch that to the basic sole, the edge is rounded a little bit. But for really rounded toes...you have to wet the leather and nail it over a last. If there was plastic that would survive more than one round of nailing...maybe resin could do that trick? Hmmm... it is somewhat elastic, and you put nails in it.