Knitting Simple Short-sleeved Sweater for 7.5 inch Realfee

Based off Megan’s free “Pullip T-shirt” pattern from mnordyke.blogspot.com from 2010.

Knit Sweater for Fairylands’s 7.5” tall Realfee:

This pattern creates a simple short-sleeve, waist-length sweater. The sweater can be worn with the opening in front or back.

Gauge: 11 sts/ inch 14 rows/inch

It’s important to match the stitches per inch gauge. Work a swatch to ensure the jacket will be the correct size. The row gauge is included just for reference.

Use whatever thread/yarn and needles you need to get 11 stitches/inch.

U.S. #0 knitting needles – Shorter needles are recommended for convenience.

Yarn: Prism or DMC craft thread – 3 skeins main color, 1 skein contrasting color (optional) or perle/pearl cotton size 8.

This sweater is worked from the neck down.

Collar: Cast on 29 sts and k 3 rows (in contrasting color, if desired. Change to main color for next row. If using a single color for the sweater, cast on and k these 3 rows in main color.)
Purl next row, increasing after the 5th, 10th, 19th, and 24th sts: 33 sts.

Shoulders: Begin raglan shaping, increasing by casting on or YO for a more lacy look.

Next row: K5, incr, k1, incr., k5, incr, k1, incr., k9, incr., k1, incr., k5, incr., k1, incr. K5: 41 sts

Next row: P6, incr, p1, incr., p7, incr., p1, incr., p11, incr., p1, incr., p7, incr., p1, incr., p6: 49 sts

Next row: K7, incr., k1, incr., k9, incr., k1, incr., k 13, incr., k1, incr., k9, incr., k1, incr., k7: 57 sts

Next row: P8, incr., p1, incr., p1, p11, incr., p1, incr., p 15, incr., p1, incr., p11, incr., p1, incr., p8: 65 sts

Next row: K9, incr., k1, incr., k 13, incr., k1., incr., k17, incr., k1, incr., k13, incr., k1, incr., k9: 73 sts

Next row: P10, incr., p1., incr., p15, incr., p1, incr., p19, incr., p1,incr., p15, incr., p1, incr., p10: 81 sts

Next row: K11, incr., k1, incr., k17, incr., k1., incr., k21, incr., k1, incr., k17 incr., k1, incr., k11: 89 sts

Purl next row.

Sleeves: K13, then working on just the next 19 sts (sleeve), k across, turn.

P 1 row, turn. K 3 rows on the 19 sts. Bind off in k st. Cut yarn, leaving tail for sewing seam.

Attach yarn to next st of back and k across 25 sts. Working on just the next 19 sts, work same as first sleeve.

Body: Attach yarn to next st of remaining front and k across remaining 13 sts. P across the sts of front, back and other front. Work these 49 sts in stockinette st for ½ inch to ¾ inch, ending with a k row.

Change colors here, if desired. P 1 row. K 3 rows. Bind off in k st.

Finishing: Sew sleeve seams. Pick up 20 to 22 sts on front edge with main or contrasting color. K 2 rows. Bind off in k st. Work other front edge the same way. Weave in ends.

Block sweater if desired.

Add plastic snaps, if desired or leave open.

Done!


Notes:

2 skeins of craft thread would be enough for a short sweater, but if you want longer sleeves or body, it’s best to have a third skein. Crochet thread is not recommended because it’s very tightly twisted and tends to make stiff doll sweaters.

Cotton thread will block nicely. Synthetic threads might not block at all.

I used cast-on sts for increases because it’s easier than working other types of increases. The knitting gets tight with 8 increases every row for 7 rows.

If it’s difficult to pick up sts along the front edges, try a small crochet hook (I used a U.S. size 4 hook) to get started. If you prefer, crochet the edge of the sweater instead.

Picking up stitches on the side of knitting is a little tricky because there are more rows than stitches in a typical piece of stockinette knitting. I pick up 3 stitches, then skip a space, 3 more stitches, skip a space, etc. Your rows per inch might differ from mine. Therefore, use whatever scheme works for you to get a flat front edge.

You can get a notched collar look by not picking up stitches along the collar.

If desired, work buttonholes in one front edge and add buttons to other edge. Or just add buttons to one side, implying there are buttonholes on the other side.

I avoid metal fastenings on bjd clothing because they can leave metal marks on the resin skin. You may use what works for you.

Please experiment with this pattern and have fun!

 

Thanks for the heads up. I'll work on it!

 

@auntbear Now it's working again but I didn't do anything! Weird!
I used "myplace" on Frontier which was sold to another company - so maybe a glitch happened there.
Just double-checking, can you see it now?