Two main questions in one to avoid making a lot of threads; 1. Is it possible to shirr the back of a doll dress to allow it to fit multiple bust sizes within one specific doll size, instead of having to make multiple different dresses? or does this effect of shirring not translate well to doll scales like 1/3 or 1/4? I'm thinking like the type of shirring commonly seen on the back of lolita dresses like this that allow it to accommodate different torso/chest sizes. I mainly want to create dresses that can accommodate DD L bust without being limited to just L bust, so S and M bust can also wear it, I assume shirring would do this? And can I do shirring by hand? 2. How exactly do you attach white lining to a garment you're sewing, for stain protection? All the ways I can think of would leave seams of the coloured fabric touching the doll, or would have white thread stitches showing on the outside of the clothes. I was thinking something exactly like this would be great but I don't understand how it's done: /posts/12879826/
The answer to question 2 is simple. You make the lining as an entire white dress, then attach it at the ends of the sleeves, the collar, and the back opening, then bag the garment out.
About the shirring. In your picture it look like it's simply a number of channels between the outer and lining layer with elastic in them. That is perfectly doable in doll scale as long as you make sure the fabric is not too stiff. It can be done by hand, but it would take great care to do so that it looks neat. The other common way to do shirring is to use elastic thread either in the bobbin of the machine or sigsag over elastic tread. These can be done small if your machine can handle it, but it's a lot harder on short seams. Anything with elastic in it is prone to aging badly, so do keep that in mind if you are making things for other peoples dolls. With the first method it's possible to replace the elastic when it dies, but not with the second.
Thank you for the video link! It's a little bit confusing still but I think I'll understand it better if I just try the method shown myself. Would it be better to include multiple back clasps at different lengths then instead of doing shirring to accommodate more torso/bust sizes? I've seen it done before on a doll dress I bought, but I'm not sure how much give it has compared to shirring.
I'd say it dependy on why you need several sizes in one garment. If you are doing it for your own dolls and simply want the garment to be shared between them, then I think the elastic channels are a good enough method. You can replace the elastic yourself whenever needed and you likely only need to do so every ten years or so, depending on elastic quality and enviromental factors (heat, humidity etc.). It's not a big deal. If you are making things to sell and want to make garments that fit a number of dolls because of that, it gets a lot trickier because you won't know what size to optimize the garment for and you don't know how much work the future owner is willing to put in to make it fit. You will also likely want a product that lasts for a long time with as little maintenace as possible. Some doll clothes are sold with an exagerated overlap in the back so that snaps or buttons can be moved into the correct position to fit the doll. This works well enough for small size changes and it's easy enough to do that anybody can do it (or at the very least is likely to have someone in their life that can do it for them) but it doesn't accomodate many sizes at once. Regardless of the method, there is no way to make the fit perfect for every size in just one garment. You are going to have to decide on an optimal size and tweak it from there, accepting that the further you go form that size, the worse the fit will be. For something relatively simply fitted, like a lolita dress, that may not be the end of the world, but something more structured, like a ball gown, there may be problems. The last thing you'd want is a garment that a lot of dolls technically can fit into, but that doesn't fit any of them quite right.
I'm mainly aiming to be able to fit the dress over multiple bust sizes but only within one specific doll line and size. I assumed it wouldn't be a super large difference and therefore manageable with either shirring or multiple clasps. It would just be advertised as "dress for [doll brand] [specific size & doll line] bust size S/M/L" or something like this. I don't intend to sell clothes that fit many dolls since the doll I want to sew for is relatively popular anyways. I just want to have usability within that one doll line's different bust size options to avoid limiting customers and also to avoid having to own one doll of each bust size to test fits and make individual versions. If it's important, it would really only be for lolita dresses, too. If I ever sew/sell more fitted clothes it would of course be very size limited. I was mainly worried that since my own doll has the larger bust, accommodating it in the dresses would make them too baggy in the chest for the smaller chest dolls, which limits who can buy them, so I wanted to make them adjustable.
The main fit problem will be that the difference in size is at the highest point of the bust, in other words in the space at the front of the bodice, while the size adjustment (elastic panel, movable/multiple fasteners or whatever is used) will be at the center back. It's not just a matter of circumference. A fitted garment is a three dimentional thing and simply pulling it tighter will not change the overall shape, too much space in the bust will still look baggy if there is nothing filling it out. All pulling it in will do is making the back narrower. This will also pull on sleeve openings, shoulder straps, necline and any other features the garment may have. If the waist is not being pulled at the same rate this will also create a diagonal pull on the garment that may cause buckeling or pulling of the material in ways that are the hallmarks of poor fit. Again, for a farily simple fit, like that of a mostly tubular bodice with narrow shoulder straps or similar, it may still work. It's worth a try. And after all, Many old shool lolita dresses had their main shaping done by the waist ties alone, it's not a fashion always tighly fitted to the body. Tricks like adding decorative lacing to distract the eye from an elasicated back can also help a bit and is commonly seen in lolita dresses. The waist ties fill a similar function, as while they do often create a little bit of baginess, they do also make sure that the waist itself is smooth and pulled in the right direction.
I suppose in the end it would probably be best to just purchase singular bust parts to create separate versions of the dresses for each size then, or just cater only to one size, even if it's limiting.
I have some doll dresses with a panel down the centre back that are shirred with multiple lines of shirring (not inserted elastic - it's sewn with elastic thread in the bobbin of your sewing machine, and regular thread on top) that work well for accomodating different bust and body widths. It looks fine in doll scale - personally, if I were doing it, I'd sew the parallel lines of shirring closer together for doll scale than I do in full sized dresses, just to make it look more in scale with the doll, but that's a matter of personal taste: YouTube has many vidos showing how to use shirring elastic - I just did a search on "how to sew shirring elastic by machine" and found loads of them. Teddy