Sewing Sewing Machine Reccomendations

Just to be upfront, most of my sewing experience has been for human clothes. That said:

Most basic machines should be fine, though I would recommend getting something of decent quality, one that could be fixed and have parts replaced if needed.

What’s more important for doll clothes specifically are accessories for the machine.

The one thing I have seen advised more than anything else is a 1/4” foot for the machine as it can make far more even and narrower seams. I recently got one of these for doll clothes and it’s so much better than a standard sized foot.

A rolled hem foot is also a worthwhile thing to have around, though these are trickier to use. I would wait until you have more experience with a machine before getting one of these.

Lastly, I do have a serger, a totally separate sort of machine. It is not necessary for doll clothes, but a huge perk to have nonetheless. I have to get more thread for mine, but once I have it, I will be doing far more seams with this, the seams will be less bulky. That said, you can get a similar effect with a regular sewing machine by using a zig zag stitch. The serger is less time consuming, but is a whole different expense involved. If you find that you really like sewing and are doing a lot of it, I would recommend a serger as well.

 

Machines vary greatly, and it kind of depends on how frequently you expect to use it, what you'll be using it for, and the types of materials you expect to be working with. Most machines you can find at your local big box stores will work fine for someone who isn't going to be doing a lot of heavy sewing, either in terms of how much or materials used. Don't be fooled by the "heavy duty" ones, like the singer heavy duty. There's not really much of a different in how it's built compared to one of their other machines.
Computerized machines often have more functions to them, but they can have a shorter lifespan with the computerized parts and obsolesence. If you're not planning on doing a lot of complicated things, then I would maybe suggest not going with a computerized model.
You'll want one that can do at minimum, a straight stitch, zig zag, backstitch, and probably automatic buttonholes. A lot of machines also have some built in decorative stitches they can do, which can be nice for decorating doll clothes.
For someone just starting out, the accessories the machine comes with should be enough. They should come with a variety of feet, like a buttonhole foot, zipper feet (can be helpful when sewing small seams even if you're not sewing a zipper), the regular straight stitch foot, and maybe a narrow foot. If you plan on sewing anything like vinyl or pleather, get a teflon or roller foot as well, since those materials can stick to the normal feet because of the friction. You can find universal feet that work on different brands, but you'll need to know if the machine has a high or low shank (it should say in the description).

Other tools I'd suggest, an awl (good for poking holes and helping turn things if you're careful), bent tweezers (same thing, but grabby), pinking sheers (help with trimming seams down and minimizing fraying in some materials), fray check (helps prevent fabric from fraying because sometimes pinking doesn't help), extra bobbins of the kind your machine takes (there are also supposedly universal bobbins as well, but the last pack i bought doesn't play well with my machine despite being the right size. It may help to spend the extra and get the ones manufactured by the brand your machine is from), a variety of needle weights. Using the right sized needle makes a HUGE difference in how well things turn out. I'd also suggest getting some smaller scissors than the usual fabric sheers, since doll clothes have smaller parts and it can be tricky getting in all the places to trim things well.

I personally also splurged and got the Clove mini iron to iron seams, since i was finding it a little tricky with my full sized iron, but you can manage with a full sized one and finger pressing too if that's not in the books for you.

There are probably some other things I'm forgetting at the moment

 

Looks like everyone has covered the main points. I'll add, a nice bright desk lamp to aim at your stitching. As far as brands go, Brother is a basic reliable brand that's available at big box stores. After you sew for a while you'll know whether you want something with more bells and whistles. And eventually you may find yourself with multiple machines.

 

I've found the advice from 20dollarlolita on tumblr to be the best regarding picking a machine, given that she actually works as a sewing machine sales rep. Her TLDR:

Most beginning sew-ers are going to be looking at three kinds of machines: used, mechanical, and entry-computerized. The difficult part of buying a used machine is finding one that is going to do what you want, and not break on you. If you're looking at a new mechanical machine, you want it to be fully adjustable. Entry computer machines are easier to use and last longer than entry mechanical machines. No matter what, buy a machine with a metal internal frame. Buying a brand new modern Singer machine is a fast way to guarantee that you're getting the worst value for your money.​

 

Oh! You'll also need sewing machine oil! Most machines don't come with it, and you shouldn't need to oil the machine when you get it, but you'll eventually need to oil it to keep it running smoothly. I highly suggest getting one of the bottles with a telescoping nozzle. After you've oiled it (and tbh, the first time you use it when you get it, and after changing threads, etc.) run some scrap fabric through to make sure any excess oil doesn't end up on your fabric, and to make sure you've got it all threaded correctly and aren't having any tension issues. Your machine may come with a little brush in the accessories for cleaning out thread bits and lint, and I highly recommend using it often, especially in the bobbin casing. You'd be surprised the number of times someone thinks a machine is broken, when it's really just got a monster lint ball jamming its mechanisms. If your machine doesn't come with one, an old paint brush with stiff but fluffy bristles will work too.

In terms of thread, opinions vary widely on which threads to use, but I've been sewing for over 30 years and have had better luck with coats & clark dual duty than any of the fancier, more expensive brands. You may need to use a specialty thread for some materials or effects, but dual duty should suffice for most things.

 

I agree with the great points people have included above. Sewing machines can be very personal so don’t be discouraged if you don’t get a perfect fit the first time. If you can I would recommend trying out a few beforehand so you can get a feel for the machine and the features you will be essentially investing in. A good machine should last you many years.

What I would add to the above is to consider how bulky or wide the layers of fabric you are sewing are likely to get. Some machines have a low height between the sewing surface and the max foot height which can make working multiple thicker layers harder (particularly if you sew heavy brocade and embellishments like I do).

For me having a quilter’s sewing machine extension table has also been a lifesaver for SD sized clothes as it distributes the fabric weight across a wider surface which reduces additional tension on stitches especially if you are working with more delicate fabrics or lots of layers.

 

Unless you don't have a pre-existing preference for a mechanical machine, I think a digital one can be a great entry point for making doll clothes. I've used my mom's digital Pfaff a bit and the speed adjustments, presets and ways you can be very precise with seams and with starts/stops are great for small stuff - but it can be a bit of a frustrating journey to unlearn quirks of a mechanical machine first sometimes.

My own machine that I normally use, however, is a second hand cheap entry lever singer that has been uhh... mentioned above and yes it is a piece of @#£& sometimes. But it does sew! It's not always the best what it does, but it gets the job done, and although there is only a certain extent to the neatness it can achieve, it's definitely not the end of the world to end up with one as it's also rather simple to understand and easy to find cheap.

There is really no "perfect" machine to get, eventually they all sew what you want and need with a bit of a learning curve and effort. If I were to buy a new machine for myself, I would look for something with the spool accessible from the top because it's just less frustrating to swap thread like this (with my singer, I have to take out the whole storage area for this and it just takes annoyingly many steps). It's also smart to think of how to store it and how often you are going to have to lift it (aka is there space for a stationary machine or does it always only come out for a project) because depending on one's strength and mobility, some machines are heavier and harder to have to set up over and over again, or lift down a shelf etc.


Another thing to invest in parallelly is an iron! It makes a world of difference to set up a bit of space aside for pressing your work between sewing steps, and having it constantly ready in reach makes the whole process a lot smoother.

 

@Chameleon I worked for years in a sewing machine shop. We sold Husqvarna, but our mechanic worked on any brand, so I have seen a lot of machines from different brands, ages and levels of use and wear.

My advice:
* Get a basic mechanical machine. Any of the bigger brands will be fine, in general they are all capable machines.
* Don't buy anything you can't test first. The right machine is a matter of preference as well as specs.
* Don't buy a used machine unless you have someone with you that can help you evaluate the machine.
* Don't buy the cheapest of the cheap, regardless of if it's an anonymous no brand or if it has a well known name stamped on it.

Spoiler: More about "budget" machines.

To elaborate on the last point, most of the big brands make the bulk of their machines and have decent quality control over those, but in order to be able to compete with the super cheap machines that you occasionally find sold among general home appliances or in fabric shops, they started buying up machines made by other companies and rebranded them. And so, these are not much better. You can spot them because they usually have a distinct different look from the real brand machines and often they have their own product line name.
These are rarely good and while the brand will probably honor the warranty, all they will do when the machine inevitably breaks it so give you a new identical machine. They usually can't be repaired, there are no spare parts and the outer casing is often welded closed instead of held on by screws, so it can't even be opened to have a look. They are not worth the money.
If you go up just a little in price you'll find the real brand machines and even the simplest of those will usually be pretty good machines.

Things to look for when testing a machine:
* Look at the straight stitch. The stitches should form a neat line, no wobble. The tension and stitch length should be even at different speeds.
* Feel for how responsive the machine is in a variety of speeds. This is extra important when sewing small things, because there just isn't room for an extra stitch because the machine didn't slow down when you wanted it to.
* Ideally, look for a machine that stops immediately when you let the pedal go. Some machines always finish the stitch before stopping, which can be incredibly annoying when sewing tiny little precision things. It also increases the risk for accidents.
* Test the machine with several different fabrics. Sometimes, sewing machine shops will hand you scarps to test on and those always tend to be nice quality cotton starched to a papery stiffness. These are great for showing off decorative stitches, but they don't tell you much about how the machine preforms in thin, drapy doll fabrics. Test with at least: One basic woven cotton. One thin jearsy (preferably one that tends to stretch out of shape, the shop clerk should be able to show you how to adjust the machine to avoid this, if they know their job.) And lastly One really thin fabric, such as an acetate lining fabric.
* See how close to the edge the machine can sew, try with both plain and folded edge. Because no needle is optimal for all fabrics, there may still be a tendency to pull the fabric down, but at the very least the machine should be able to feed evenly. If not, the narrow hems and small allowances needed for doll clothes will be impossible.
Bonus pet peeve:
* Asymmetrical placement of the feed dogs will never ever provide an even feed. It's like trying to row a boat with one light an one heavy oar, sure you can compensate for it, but why?

 

What features do you look for in a sewing machine?
It just needs to sew for me, but since knits are about 90% of what I sew, I like to have stretch stitch options. Even though I can get away with a straight stitch on most seams; since as far as I know, my dolls aren't getting up, running around, and/or doing yoga. Something nice to have is the drop-in bobbin, because often it has a clear plastic cover and you can see if your bobbin is running low on thread. I don't have this on my current machine, so it's a guessing game as to when the thread runs out lol.

What features are dealbreakers in a sewing machine?
An inability to fit generic snap-on feet. I own a Bernina machine that was a bit spendy (I love her though), and it's hit or miss on generic snap-on feet. Brand-specific feet can be spendy; I spent about $250 for the Bernina walking foot, and it's the only way I can sew knits.

Are there specific things needed to sew smaller pieces for smaller dolls than a standard machine you’d use to make people clothes?
Others have already mentioned a 1/4" quilting foot, and this is great for woven fabrics. If you would like to sew knit/stretch fabrics I would also highly recommend a walking foot, if the sewing machine you choose only has 2 feed dogs. Feed dogs are the 'teeth' on the base of the machine that help move your fabric as the machine is sewing. A walking foot is typically large, so it can get fiddly to sew smaller than 1/3 scale. But I've successfully made t-shirts for a Littlefee without much stress. For a walking foot you might want to mark your seams until you can figure out where your fabric needs to be placed under the foot to get your intended seam allowance. I like Pilot Frixion Erasable pens, the ink markings disappear with the touch of an iron.

I also recommend a sleeve board for ironing. I find it's a good size for pressing doll clothing, and less unwieldy than a full-size ironing board.

As far as actual machine recommendations, I owned a Brother Project Runway edition machine early on in my sewing journey and it served me well. It still works, and is now owned by my mother. She used it a lot during Covid to make fabric masks, but now only uses it occasionally for alterations. I had success sewing knits on it with just a standard foot, as it has more feed dogs than any other machine I've seen. And generic snap-on feet fit 99% of the time. It comes with a lot of stitch options and multiple feet. I also think the cost is reasonable for what it comes with in terms of features and accessories, even if it just ends up being used occasionally for clothing repairs/alterations. If you're in the US, there are a lot of authorized dealers/service centers that can service the machine if needed. Although I just bought it on Amazon, and I (or my father) do maintenance on it.

 

ok, so I have been sewing since I got in the hobby, 3 years ago (back there I could not sew a straight thing!!!.) But I persisted and now I sew quite a lot.I begin with a simple basic singer which was always getting stuck...very soon in bought a brother (great sewing machine) does like over 50n different stitches - has never cause me issues easy to use. Then last year I got a brother overlocker - again , basic but excellent - that helps so much with the hemming. However,this year I decide to go one step above and got a industrial sewing machine which is amazing !!! the stitch is beautiful. but If you dont want that level, the brother is absolutely great choice!

 

Hello! When I was totally a newbie to sewing, I went cheap at first and got like those little kids sewing machines that cost less than $50 ($19.99 I think for the first one and either $29.99 or $39.99 for the second one) and can probably fit into a decent sized tote bag without being too heavy. I had no sewing skills except for nearly failing a sewing class in high school so I didn't want to invest in a legitimate machine. Both times, it wasn't worth it as one broke after one use and the other after a few uses (about one sewing project over a course of a few days)

Little Kids Sewing Machine ($19.99-$39.99)
Pros: low price, small size, light weight, and portability (can fit into a big purse)
Cons: broke easily (less than a year/less than a 5 uses each), limited functions (few stitching options and sizes), thread does not stay tight, pedal function (if has one), not repairable, may or may not have light feature, can be super loud, sometimes might ruin fabric you are working on.

Once I started dating my then boyfriend-now-husband, I discovered that his family all came from Pennsylvania. So...lots of seamstresses and quilters. His Mom, God bless her, wanted me to go all in and get the latest Husqvarna sewing machine that was over $500 (closer to the $1000 mark) because they are built like beasts, have loads of features, can be repaired and typically last a human lifetime. I couldn't afford it and I knew honestly my newbie sewing skills and my phobia with sewing (I had trauma) needed to be addressed so that was a hard no. Don't go hard for the most expensive brand name sewing machine when you don't have basic sewing skills.

However, his Aunt in particular is a hardcore quilter with multiple sewing machines and sergers and a quilting sewing machine that fills up a room that she affectionately calls "Big Bertha." She had more practical advice and was more...conscientious of my financial situation and my lack of sewing skills. Here is her advice:

• Set your first sewing machine budget around $200 - At that price point it is accessible and if in the end you decide that sewing doll clothes isn't for you then it isn't a total waste of money. And you have a basic sewing machine for doing minor repairs for your own clothes.
• Take beginner sewing classes - This can be done at local crafting stores, quilting stores (which also tend to be repair shops for sewing machines), and at local quilter groups. Most intro classes will have you make something simple like a pillow case which requires you to do straight cuts on fabric and straight lines with the most basic stitches. Also, most of these places tend to have sewing machines to rent out (free sometimes if you pay for a sewing workshop) so if you don't own a sewing machine yet you can try different entry level brands. Over time, you can see which sewing machines you like AND gain sewing skills AND have a finished sewing product after each sewing workshop project is done. The bonus too with taking beginner sewing classes is that even before you buy your first sewing machine you start to learn what basic intro level sewing supplies you will need. Before a year is done with taking these classes, you'll have a decent arsenal of basic sewing supplies. Things I had bought over time when I took basic sewing classes:
  • Basic sewing kit - can include mini threads in basic colors, generic bobbins, pins, pin cushion, sewing needles, needle threader, safety pins, measuring tape, kiddy scissors, generic buttons, generic seam ripper, and more. You will upgrade the sewing kit over time, but having the basics is nice.
  • Fabric scissors - a good pair of mid range fabric scissors is a life changer.
  • Seam ripper - not necessary if your basic sewing kit has one but you'll appreciate an upgraded seam ripper on par with an upgraded pair of fabric scissors.
  • Fabric cutter - you'll get tired fast of slowly cutting fabric with fabric scissors and this upgrade is amazing and you can upgrade to mid to high range ones once you get used to it.
  • Self-healing rotary cutting mat - necessary for cutting fabric on, the measuring guide lines are super helpful, and you can use this for other crafts.
  • Specialty rulers and stencils for quilting/sewing - optional but sometimes can be used in conjunction with the fabric cutter and self-healing rotary cutting mat. You'll see what I mean once you take sewing classes.
  • Painter's tape (blue one) - magical helper like duct tape for campers. Can use it to help line up your fabric to your sewing machine to keep those lines consistent, can use it to keep fabric down while cutting, short term repairs for miscellaneous things, etc.
• Find a beginning sewing machine with an internal metal frame - After you figure out your top 3-5 sewing machine brands you liked handling during your sewing class phase, look for a beginner/entry level sewing machine with a metal internal frame. If it doesn't say something like "internal metal frame," "aluminum internal frame," or something like that in the basic description, look at the "Specifications" section for each sewing machine. Entry level internal metal frame sewing machines tends to last longer, be more easily repaired, and can handle different types of fabric including heavy duty fabric (like denim or velvet or corduroy) without necessarily changing out the needle (although it is best practice to change the needle to a heavy duty/thick fabric one if you are sewing thick fabric). The weight of these things can be the same as sewing machines without an internal metal frame so don't judge it sorely on weight while in the box. Once you narrow down your top 3-5 sewing machines, rent those out during your sewing workshops and sew on each of them for a while doing different types of projects to narrow down to your top 2 choices.
• Consider the "free arm" feature of the sewing machine - This is more for if you end up doing quilting projects but it also makes sense if you make really fluffy petticoats for your dolly clothes or even repair your regular clothes. I'm probably saying it all wrong but it just basically means if your sewing machine has the capacity to handle fabric as it bunches up as you twist it around to sew it. I think I'm making it more confusing so just ask during your intro sewing class.
• Wait for sales - Sometimes, even the mid to higher end range sewing machines go on sale. Especially if it is an older model or has a seasonal color scheme. You can get mint in box $500-$700 sewing machines for $200 if you wait for a sale and have coupons. And even if you don't want the mid to higher end stuff, even $200 entry level sewing machines can go way down with patience and coupons.
• Hold off on warehouse or refurbished sewing machines - Although big box warehouse stores do sell legitimate brand name sewing machines for insanely cheap prices, be aware that those sewing machines are slightly different than if you bought them from a craft or quilter store. Think of it as being on par to Black Friday or Cyber Monday products. Yes, they come from the same brand but the quality is a little on the cheaper side because they were massed produced in bulk versus massed produced for regular market if that makes sense. Also, for your first sewing machine, don't get a refurbished one unless it is bought directly from the manufacturer or from a dealer that exclusively sells from the manufacturer. His Aunt said something like getting a refurbished sewing machine is great in the sense that it is typical cheaper than mint, new in box ones, but you might need intermediate knowledge already of sewing machines as you have no guarantee if the refurbished sewing machine still has issues. New in box with issues you can return for a refund or exchange for another new in box, but refurbished not so much.

Now, a lot of people already answered your questions so I'll answer them with how I grew as a newbie to a beginner/intermediate sewer.

What features do you look for in a sewing machine?

After taking my husband's Aunt's advice, I went for something in the $200 budget with internal metal frame of the entry level variety. I also stayed within the recommended brand names she suggested (Singer, Brother, and Janome) as those were easier access for me. Although other sewing machine brands from other countries were tempting, I had to be realistic in picking a brand name that had local dealers that can fix my machine if necessary. I ended up choosing a Janome Hello Kitty 13512 that came with it's own carrying case. I have chronic pain so even though it is heavy, it wasn't like Husqvarna beast mode heavy or older generation Janome, Brother, or Singer heavy. I could carry it from the car to the workshop at the back of the craft store one my good pain days.

What features are deal breakers in a sewing machine?

• Anything digital. I didn't want to deal with having to upload/download new features to a machine and there is no guarantee that the particular digital sewing machine model I have with have support features 5, 10, 20 years down the line.
• No light. This is a red flag for a sewing machine. A sewing machine light is necessary as even though you can sew in a well lit room or outside in the sunlight, the light on a sewing machine directly hits the area you are looking at pretty much 100% of the time. I've seen people during my sewing classes with sentimental sewing machines that had no light fudge it with book lights or mini flashlights but the vibrations while sewing will always move the light no matter how well taped down it is.
• Older generation sewing machines. Again, I have chronic pain so the older generation sewing machines, although built like beasts to last generations, were also heavy like beasts. Also, sometimes older generation sewing machine don't have all the nicer features of newer sewing machines. It's like classic cars. Nice to have, but requires maintenance and knowledge beyond entry level hobbyist.
• Heavy. Like, older generation heavy or beast mode heavy or high end leave it in your house heavy. Especially if you are putting the sewing machine in a car to go to and from sewing workshops. People in my sewing classes used rolly carts to bring their heavier sewing machines in, but after being in a sewing workshop anywhere from 1-4 hours, you kind of want to just pick up and go.

Are there specific things needed to sew smaller pieces for smaller dolls than a standard machine you’d use to make people clothes?

• Most entry level sewing machines (standard) will have a feature (a knob to turn) to reduce the stitch length to properly scale the stitches to dolly size. But! Not all entry level sewing machines will have a hemming stitch feature. Most newbies can get away with doing a basic straight stitch and just back stitch (literally going back over your stitch forward and backwards a couple of times) at the beginning and end to secure your stitches. Eventually, if you can combine a straight stitch with the zigzag stitch (also basic feature on sewing machines) you don't need a proper hemming stitch feature. If you make doll clothes for selling purposes, then consider investing in a sewing machine or serger that has hemming stitch features, but that's at intermediate to expert level of sewing if you are selling for profit as opposed to personal dolly uses.
• Practice making clothes in human sizes before doing it in dolly sizes. You can practice full scale clothing for yourself and then scale down for dollies. Human size easy, dolly size hard. But if you already have the muscle memory for the human version, the dolly version gets easier.
• Consider buying digital sewing patterns and scaling down to the appropriate size of your doll. Most people on DoA have shared their clothing patterns for their dollies so you don't necessarily need to buy anything as there is a wealth of knowledge on here already. But if you want a specific outfit (let's say Regency/Bridgerton gown, Steampunk outfit, Lolita outfit, superhero cosplay, or even a contemporary jeans and t-shirt), a lot of the big, brand name pattern companies have digital options.

Whew! That was a lot. We've all been there as sewing newbies so don't get discouraged. It actually gets fun after a while and you gain a new skill set once you finish your first sewing project. Wishing you lots of luck and joy with this new adventure you are undertaking. Please share pictures of your new sewing machine and your first projects once you get there please!

 

I was a costumer at local Shakespeare festivals and theaters and at a university. Everyone has pretty much covered all of the bases, but I will attest to the fact that despite my having more sewing experience than most, sewing doll scale was an adjustment, so don't be surprised if it takes a while to get used to. Aside from the fiddly bits, appropriate fabric selection is key there. I'll agree with everyone about the more recent Singers, I had one and it was...disappointing. Personal opinion-I like old mechanical machines. No, they don't have the bells and whistles of newer machines, but the thing they do have (and we're talking 60's machines here, maybe a little later), is metal gears. Most modern machines have nylon gears. I've lost count of the ones I've had that died because their gears stripped out (never said I was gentle with machines!). If you can find a good sewing machine store that offers classes and repairs, they can be your best friend. I just recently bought an old three thread serger from one, specifically to do doll clothes because it serged a very narrow overlock. As a costumer, two machines that I sewed on and liked were an old Husquevarna and an old Bernina. They were both workhorses.

 

in the end of the day, the best thing is to just sew: practice is the real deal when it comes to that. You'd hate sewing in the beginning when things go wrong but you'd love once you made a piece that works!
Also, in answer to this, "Are there specific things needed to sew smaller pieces for smaller dolls than a standard machine you’d use to make people clothes?" - in my experience what I find that is the standard home sewing machines often times dont like sewing through small narrow bits of fabric, it ends up stuck in between the needle and bobbin box. That is the main reason I got an industrial sewing machine, this problem doesn't exist! The industrial machine has a narrower pedal? Which makes it easier too sew through small bits.

 

I have a Brother XR3774 sewing machine, and I would say it's all right, but not great. It works fine for the most part, but thinner fabrics and narrow seam allowances have a tendency to get caught in the feeds.

The main thing I would recommend that I haven't seen mentioned is an overlock foot. This makes finishing the edges of your fabric a million times easier, and it's also good for doing narrow hems and topstitching. That and the 1/4" foot are the main ones I use.

 

Everyone has great advice above! I'll just add a few things to consider:

If you can, go to a store where you can try the machines out. You probably won't know yet what you will like or not, but you might find you like some more than others. This is especially important if you have sensory issues - some machines are noisier than others, or make a high pitched whine, and I definitely suffer from this and found it a problem when I bought a machine without being able to try it first during Covid! So I thought I'd mention it in case that's something that bothers you!

Also you should be able to test if the machine can sew in a straight line. I'm serious, some machines can't! On a related note: don't ever buy one of the cheap machines at Aldi! (if you have Aldi where you are!)

For doll sewing: I find the most important thing is that you can actually see what you're sewing with the machine's foot not obscuring it! My beloved old Husqvarna died, and I bought a Janome, but I found it was really hard to see what I was doing with the foot - it wasn't clear where the centre was, where I wanted to sew of course, and the wide all metal foot was just covering up the tiny things like doll collars? In the end I got a new Husqvarna instead, as they have a nice wide space at the foot and a red line in the centre so you can see where to sew for that really accurate sewing! However - I wouldn't really recommend that as a beginner machine, way too expensive!!! (I just couldn't get used to anything new, I'd been sewing on the old Husqvarna for 20 years!) So - have a good look at the machine foot, and maybe consider getting a clear plastic foot with whatever machine you buy, it really helps with being able to see with the tiny stuff!

I've also heard Brother is a good brand. Singer sued to be very good, but they got bought out and aren't anymore, apparently - s maybe avoid them!

Hope that helps and happy sewing!!!!

 

i have a babylock (its at least 20 years old) i got from my grandmother & i love it, it runs very smoothly and the features are very intuitive though i think they tend to be a bit pricy. before that i had a bother and it was an evil little machine i would not recommend
edit to add i think i had a BROTHER SM2700 i now have a Baby Lock Quilter's Choice BLQC

 

That is fantastic!

 

Before my current machine, I've had 2 basic Brother machines that cost less than $100 and seemed to work just fine. But then they soon started having problems, dropping stitches, etc. Sure signs that they needed servicing.

For the first one, I found myself just buying a new machine since it cost less than servicing which starts at $99 around where I live.
After the second one started failing me, I followed the advice of some fellow sewers from a class I took and invested in a Janome, specifically this Hello Kitty model.

Lasted about 3 times longer than the other machines before I had to get it serviced.
I guess my advice is to think beyond the initial price of the machine you're looking at and consider maintenance costs. Plus, I love Janome.