Wow, she looks great glimmer... she's really coming along! You should be really proud. Your hard work is showing through )
She's looking gorgeous. I love how her face is looking... and her body is becoming very elegant. I was skimming through the thread and thinking just how far she's come!
thanks armelia for such generous comments it has been a long journey, but all the help here has been wonderful and inspiring to see others work and ideas...
very excited yesterday - made my first plaster mould and cast a wax replica from it! Now I just have to work out how to make wax smooth!!!, I ran out of plaster pretty quickly - was only able to cast the body so also will have to get a lot more plaster. and I have ordered my silicon and resin I got smaller amounts of different types of silicon to try different ones out. I will continue to sand the sculpy pieces also but wanted to try and learn moulding a bit before I used the silicon and resin in a cheaper less permanent medium
Your doll is very beautiful, glimmer! I'm looking forward with great interest to seeing more of her. May I ask why you cast her in wax? It seems like an extra step to me. Why can't you use the sculpey model as the master for making the silicon molds? You have already sanded her smooth, and applied primer, right? Do you feel you can get the wax smoother than the sculpey? Just curious. Martha Armstrong-Hand modeled her dolls in oil clay over an armature; then she made rough plaster molds, and cast her carvable wax into those molds to make hollow wax masters; which she finished as masters to make plaster molds for porcelain slip casting. The oil clay never hardens, so that is why Martha made the hard, carvable hollow wax casts. She did all her final smoothing on the wax parts, then used them as masters for mold making. Do you have pix of the wax castings? Did you cast them in a carvable wax? If so, which recipe did you use?
Thanks KW I cast her in wax first because Martha did! but also because I wanted to learn a little bit about moulding, and perhaps do some modifications to her in wax and also because I thought it would be easier to get smooth. But its not - lol there is no shortcut to the sanding! I thought plaster would be less stressful than silicon, but found it is not as the risk of damage to my master when I did wrong things was high. I damaged my master a bit several times trying to get it out of a lump of plaster that was like a solid ball. The fear! I will take some pics of the wax castings this weekend. My torso was good, the head was a bit fail because a lump of plaster on the side of the nose stuck to the first wax cast and plaster stuck all over the head. The torso and headcaps were epic fail. This time I let the plaster moulds dry for a week, then failed to moisten them before casting. Consequently the wax cast stuck firmly into the mould and I had to throw the lot away. Sigh. I am casting them in the only wax I could find that seemed to fit the bill - I think it is the same wax you are using - victory brown microcrystalline. I added a bit of paraffin to it because I read that Martha had paraffin. Its all an experiment! I wouldnt mind also trying porcelain casting later but I have no access to a teacher, kiln or anything so that is unlikely and I will probasbly stick to wax and resin for the moment. I am lucky enough to live close to Twigling who is a fantastic sculptor and who helps with advice
Thank YOU glimmer, for sharing her with us. For me, it is very exciting to see a doll being created, especially one like yours. :XD I didn't think there would be. I really detest everything about sanding. I'm going to try and figure a way to get the wax smooth without sanding, if at all possible. Wanting to learn about molding is a good reason to make a wax casting. I know exactly what you mean. I've also wrestled with molds that were very difficult to open. The trick is to take your time, and work along the seams. Maybe that is why I have so many kitchen knives in my studio? This is one of the things I will address when I get to the plaster mold making chapter at ED. The main techniques for making good plaster molds are finding and drawing the parting lines, making a good clay base that is perpendicular to the parting line, using the correct separator and applying it properly, mixing the plaster in the proper ratio of plaster to water, and pouring it properly. Water and wax don't mix, so the mold must be soaked in water before pouring wax. It is the opposite for slip, because the mold is supposed to suck moisture from the mold. Okay, so you've already made that mistake, and gotten it out of the way! I know you won't do that again. I have found bits and pieces of Martha's book, here and there. For example, here is Martha's recipe for her carving wax (Thanks Jayne): This is the carving wax recipe that is poured into molds to make a wax doll: This mixture is: 28.35 gm = 1.0 oz 900 grams paraffin 900 g = 31.7465 oz 900 grams microcrystalline 900 g = 31.7465 oz 1800 grams industrial talc 1800 g = 63.4931 oz 200 grams beeswax and 200 g = 7.05479 oz 200 grams carnauba wax 200 g = 7.05479 oz 1 oz = 0.0625 lbs 31.7465 oz paraffin 31.7465 oz = 1.9841562500000003 lbs 31.7465 oz microcrystalline 31.7465 oz = 1.9841562500000003 lbs 63.4931 oz industrial talc 63.4931 oz = 3.96831875 lbs 7.05479 oz beeswax 7.05479 oz = 0.44092437500000004 lbs 7.05479 oz carnauba wax 7.05479 oz = 0.44092437500000004 lbs I added some extra weight conversions in there. That recipe makes about 8.80 lbs of wax! As you can see from that mess, the recipe can be rounded off to: 2 lbs paraffin 2 lbs microcrystalline wax 4 lbs industrial talc 1/2 lb beeswax 1/2 lb carnauba wax Carnauba wax is very hard! And if you can't get it in Australia, just take it off the recipe, and add 1/2 lb more of paraffin to the recipe. Likewise with the beeswax. It is fairly soft, like the microcrystalline wax, so if it is something that you can't get, or it is really expensive (it is here), then take it off the recipe and add 1/2 lb microcrystalline wax to the recipe. So, in the end, without the fancy carnauba wax and beeswax, the carvable wax recipe might look like this: 2-1/2 lbs paraffin 2-1/2 lbs microcrystalline wax 4 lbs industrial talc That makes about 9 lbs of carvable wax! I know I won't need that much to cast some hollow parts, so I could easily make half a batch of that recipe, and still have some left over? 1-1/4 lbs paraffin 1-1/4 lbs microcrystalline wax 2 lbs industrial talc Same here! I'm figuring it out as I go along. You really are lucky to have twigling close by! I don't have a kiln either, but I do have a little ceramic slip casting experience; probably enough to finish my doll. I have found a local doll artist who does have an electric kiln, and she says she will be willing to fire some dolls for me if I decide to cast my dolly in porcelain. Wax and resin is a good combo. Silicon rubber doesn't stick to wax, and the problem with undercuts is much less of a problem because a rubber mold is flexible. Also, you really won't need a separator to pour resin into a silicon mold. I'm so sure your experiences with plaster mold making have given you a better understanding of mold making, and that's what counts! However, don't give up on plaster because of your first fails. It is an awesome molding material. Of course, I'm using it because I have a lot of it in my studio. I'm using what I have on hand. The best book about plaster in the whole world, is Chaney & Skee's Plaster Mold and Model Making (NY: Van Nostrand Reinhold Co.,1973). It is so good, I have two copies. One stays nice and clean on my book shelf, and the other one is a studio copy. Chaney & Skee take all the pain out of molding with plaster. In fact, they make it something to look forward to, and something to take pride in, as a craft, in and of itself.
Just popping in to say I tried my first silicon mould today - twice lol. Forgot the release agent on the first one, and the second one is curing the second part as we type. fingers crossed. I did the head first, as Kaye Wiggs has a nice easy to follow tutorial on making a head mould on her forum "Resin Cafe". The experiements with plaster moulding did help to give me confidence. Sorry didnt take pics but will take some for future mouldmaking. Just wanted to try one first. Silicon doesnt go very far!!!! one uses a lot for one mould, I have found. KW, thanks so much for your encouragement and interest - I hope you post lots of pics on your progress on your blog and here so I can learn from your experiences. I actually have Martha's book, its very good but not so detailed. I have beeswax and parrafin so will try to approximate her recipie when I get back to wax casting, but thanks for replicating it here. I think I will have to get that book you mention when I can bring myself to try plaster moulding again after my first learning round wounds have healed!
Congratulations on your first pour!!! I agree silicone doesn't go very far, but as you make more moulds you will have junk that you can cut into smaller pieces and push in along the edges of new molds to raise the level of newly poured molds to save material. The stuff is so heavy and very disappointing to run out before you reach the top of your master while pouring, but being able to push some junk-chunks in can usually get you over the hump. What happened with the mold where you forgot the release? Was it damaged beyond use, or was it just more of a struggle to peel free of the master and mold box?
thanks twigling Weeeeelll <drum roll> the first one was just all fused together, so I did another one - so have plently of junk silicon to bulk up other moulds Here are the results... lots of air bubbles along the headcap, and I am not sure what do do with the ears - will need some help from you I think - the ears had big bubble holes, even though I diligently put the vents on them like Kaye shows. I also obviously had a couple of little lumps of klean clay on my master that I didnt wipe off well, so had a couple of those sort of showing on her forehead. Also the pouring sprue was way too chunky I think and hard to get off. Also I put a tad too much flesh colour into the resin so she looks a bit sunburnt lol. Otherwise it went well! (the second time!) But I see a lot of flaws I want to fix - ears, nose, inside head smoothing, and not happy with the lips as they got a bit featureless with all the sanding, so want to build them up again to look more natural. But she looks ok Its really exciting to see what she looks like in person - its a bit hard to tell with grey primer. I cant wait to fix the flaws I see and cast a proper one and the rest of her. But it takes so long! This took all weekend ! Here she is with all the resin bits attached and with eyes wig and some light colour
Ohhh, nice work ~ she looks great in fleshtone!! If the vents on the ears aren't working, maybe they are in the wrong place? Or maybe they are to small and get blocked? I see what you mean with forgetting mold release and getting the mold fused together, that can be problematic, but at least now you have some spare stuff to cut up. Make sure you keep it in a bag or something so it doesn't get dust and grit on any of it.
Oh, she's lovely! My favorite thing to do, when pouring the core silicone, is putting mold resease everywhere...accept the eyes and/or neck opening. *head shake* It's so easy to get excited and miss steps. Your girl is pretty enough to explain more than a few distracted moments, though. I cannot wait to see her body cast...
She looks so lovely. Great job on your first casting. Her lips give her a bit more softness here. Show this along side the new one after you redid the lips and others.
Wow Glimmer! Your first silicone rubber mold! How exciting! On that first mold, that got fused together, you may want to experiment with cutting it with an X-Acto razor knife to open it? Molders actually make one-piece molds on purpose, then cut them open to remove the model. You can try it. If it doesn't work, you can always just use the fused mold to chop into pieces to use as filler in a new mold (it helps reduce the amount of rubber used). Thank YOU, Glimmer for showing us how to do it. Your progress is very encouraging! Even posting mistakes that you make in the beginning is very helpful! As for me, just try to stop me from posting pictures of the progress of my BJD! Even though the photos I take are terrible, I post them anyways. I figure that even a pitiful photo of the progress is better than nothing. I'm not going to let the lack of owning a Nikon camera and photogrpahy studio stop me from documenting what I'm doing.
He thanks guys - I am making moulds today (took day off work! couldnt wait till weekend to see her whole!)
thankyou. end of day results:- mould boxes done - 2 (arms) torso sanded - 1 master head modified - 1 - lips, face symmetry, mouldmaking scars. master head eye destroyed? 1!!!!! spent most of the afternoon trying to recreate her eyes when one crumbled as I was trying to clean out the inside of her head. wah. Thank *goodness* I made a mould before cleaning out her head!!!!! I decided to try and fix with apoxie since sculpy is so fragile. Its very difficult, and my apoxie went hard before I was able to get the eye looking reasonable. I think I will have to carve it. So she looks a bit differentt ah the joy.
Ah, the trials and tribulations of doll making! Best of luck getting that eye fixed. Twigling's workshop_notes has some good techniques for making spheres on page 21.
Most parts except feet, hands and headcap are first part moulded. I ran out of pinkysil silicon, so used 2 other types - banana skin and another that takes 48 hours till demould. I must say, I much preferred the pinkysil to the banana skin silicon - much much easier for me to work with and faster to cure. Banana skin was a bit gloopy and sticky and bubbled much worse than the pinkysil. So I made a temporary glove part of the head and torso with the banana skin and cast in easycast, very fast setting resin so lots of bubbles. This time I tried tapping the mould on the second cast which worked better, so when I cast in smooth on I will try that trick. I had to rework the face because one eye crumbled <curses sculpy) and while trying to fix it, when I did the mirror thing to look for evenness, I gasped and reeled back in horror! My lovely face was completly wonky! So I reworked the face quite a lot. The new face is a bit more even. The torso is nice but bubbles are a problem in the shoulders. I think I will try the traditional lying down mould vs the cup mould next time. Anyhoo. at this rate, I should have all pieces junk cast by... oh... 2012. She has freckles because I think I didnt mix the colour well enough With wig with a little bit of faceup. I made her a redhead because of the freckles! Her head is stuck on with a bit of sculpy because my respirator hasnt arrived yet and I dont want to drill the stringing holes in the resin without proper respirator I am learning a lot. I would like to make the final moulds drill free with straws, but I think you need to do the traditional mould method to achieve that. thanks for looking and as always, honest critique is very welcome and helpful. It is easy not to see the flaws anymore when you have sanded each part for the billionth time! Looking at the pictures, I am going to work her upper lip a little...I seem to have lost it in translation.
o wow, well done. seriously, i know that you see lots of problems but each one helps you learn. besides that, she is lovely. well done
I love her! She is so beautiful. The freckles give her so much personality and character. I can't wait to see pix of her all finished, and posing. Congratulations glimmer! Well done! XD
Looking so cooool! I don't totally understand why the freckles have occured though. Does the pigment not dissolve properly?
I am not sure Jphobia. I realised I had put 2 drops of pigment in 60 mm instead of 100 mm of resin, so I quickly mixed up a bit more resin and added it to the first lot. This stuff is hobby stuff and fast curing, so either the pigment wasnt mixed or something happened as I added the second lot of resin, a bit of curing perhaps. In any event, after seeing v3 of the face in resin, I want to rework her ears and lips....
Am struggling through the moulding and casting. Moulding is much harder than I envisaged. The most successful moulds have been using twiglings method of casting upright and cutting the mould - I did this for the torso and head and it is much easier. I have made many mistakes. My new reins (smooth on 305) is much less bubble prone than the other one I was using. 1) not using gravity. I made flat moulds (like a book) and put the pouring and venting in the top broad surface (the title page in a book) instead of at the top. So I got large vacant spaces where the resin did not fill, so I had to hold the mold upright and awkwardly fill at an angle to fix that. This is my second lot of silicon moulds, and so far I dont really have one yet that is reasonable to cast from. 2) I am trying the no drill method by putting a straw in that is made as part of the mould. This works well when you seal the ends of the straw, so resin cant get in. I got one leg which has a hole through it. The other has a straw filled with resin. Having just drilled out the torso, I am a great fan of not having to do that. very dusty and nasty drilling the resin (although I use a respirator) I tried this for the torso / hips, but I think I will have to cast a two part mould for that, it didnt work at all. 3) dont rush. one always makes mistakes. I tried moulding all the parts, in prep for casting and found I had made a lot of mistakes. So now I am doing one at a time. Now I am just doing a little bit each day. Mould, pour, cast. learn. fix mistakes for next mould pour cast. learn etc. I am not very good at detail, but you need to be as careful and tidy and precise as you can, I have found. In rushing I have a) forgotton pour vents and bubble vents b) mould release c) keys . those are the main things. I am going to go back to the no seam cut mould method but will have to put in a reminder around where the master is, as last time I damaged the masters cutting the silicon. I have also got a much sharper exacto set of knives to try and make it easier. I am using pinkysil for silicon, and I like it very much. Pictures. I am redoing her face as I am not happy with this one. Here is the new face, based on the first cast I did, with modifications side view very bad hand cast and wax feet. I am liking wax to work with. This is a sort of recipie similar to KWmelvins - candle wax, microcrystalline, talc and parrafin. This lot was a bit soft as I used too much candle wax I think, and not enough talc. the torso/hips are cast from this wax version as rats or possums stole the master! I left it ouside with some clean klay ready to mould and they seem to love the clay, so took the torso as well. luckily I had a plaster version so could make another wax master. They also stole my feet! hence the wax feet.
glimmer i am right there with you! It can be frustrating to get so far and yet still have a way to go! Your wax casts look amazing, i hope you get on well with them. You look like you have similar problems to me, every problem is a potential learning experience isn't it! I feel kind of bad to get bad results after all the costs and work involved so far but i'm hoping that i can still one day achieve a decent dolly. I wish you loads of luck for this and hope that things work out for you. i also used straws and ended up with a couple of resin filled ones, get a pair of pliers and wiggle it about and they should eventually be able to be pulled out leaving the channel.
thanks Maggs I am going to research some other peoples casting wips before attempting any more... did you post any casting wip pics? <runs to rummage in husbands toolbag for pliers>
*mumbles about casting and hating it currently* sorry only have the ones i posted up on the thread as even with helper i had a bit of a problem still with the resin. I'll post on my thread the steps i use for you so i don't fill up your thread with junk.
that would be great, thanks. I am going to post my casting steps from now on to try and get some help with it. Also thinking about getting some leggo.
I think you're making great progress - don't get discouraged! I like the old face, but I think it's exciting that she'll have a sister. She does have beautiful hips! Do you like using the wax? I am curious, but not ready... I actually didn't like working with the Legos. I don't think they make them the way they used to... even varying up the pieces and doing it with a thick wall, pressing the pieces together.... the silicone still leaked between the pieces. Fortunately I had wrapped the whole thing with mailing tape, but the silicone went up inside the Legos and so the silicone level dropped a good bit. It just wasn't good for me. (Here's a pic of my junk molds with Legos though.) For my final pieces, I ended up using PVC piping for the mold shells. It worked pretty well... just be sure to mark which ones match. I generally orient my pieces in the mold so that the vents are in the top or bottom of the pieces, then I make sure there is enough height to fill the pourspout. It really helps avoid bubbles or that empty spot on the vent.
Thanks armelia, your comments are so encouraging. I must say i am *loving* wax. its much easier to get detail in than sculpy - its firm, but carvable, and you just have to put a hair dryer on it if you want it a bit squooshy. I have just reread through all your moulding casting posts (so helpful, thankyou for posting so much!) and now am thinking Perhaps I will stay with the cardboard/ purchased mould box/pvc piping approach then. I, too am feeling traumatised by leaking silicon *and* leaking resin. a lot of leaking resin. sigh. Thankyou so much for the tips and tricks, too.
bathroom sealant on the moulds, dries in about 30 minutes and gives a good seal, saved me resin and silicon. just make sure it's the cheap stuff that isn't silicon based.
Your girl looks fabulous! Her body is so nice and clean and her face is so sweet The molding ordeal is kinda scary though xp thanks for sharing about it, and I hope it works out! Would love to see her in full resin I've been pondering it but you're making me really want to give wax a try.. I imagine there wouldn't be any dust too which would be a huge plus.
Armeleia, did you put the molds in the pressure pot when you used legoes? Because that would definitely squeeze silicone into every little nook and cranny where you don't want it. I think batchix still uses legoes but no pressurepot, so doesn't get the leakage. Bridget, my car is out of rego at the moment, otherwise I could come over one day if you want some help.
oh thanks maggs & crowtree for your kind words and tips! Twigling <guilt> I still have your book, I must come and see you!!! and return it, esp before xmas! I have been so busy and slack. will pm you thankyou so much for the offer
Not too much in the way of news on the doll, but after help from twigling, and seeing her moulds, I made a relativley succesfull drill free cast of lower leg. The only minor changes I need to make are better positioned air vents as there was quite a lot of bubbles on the top, otherwise yay! I thought it might be helpful for people if I showed the steps I used pvc piping cut with small saw to length and cut down one side in curves to make it easier to match where the piping should meet up - again, with a small hacksaw. this was a lot easier than I thought it would be I put a straw through the stringing channels then clayed around the openings for no seepage then directly onto the surface made a clay sprue and 2 air vents (note I need better air vents arrangement still, there were still too many bubbles then lowered pvc pipe over the arrangement then cut straw to length and plugged with clay at both ends then put plasticine around bottom and on the cut I am using pinkysil silicon put part b into part a stirred poured - it looked like a yummy pink cake I dont have a picture of the cutting, but will try to take this next time with the next leg. But I cut the mould down the side, very carefully with a sharp sharp exacto knife and didnt damage the master. I had to cut a little accross the top to extract the master. Next lower leg I will do a layer of clay to make it easier to place the sprue and air vents at the bottom (pouring top) of the mould, and make the point at which they touch the master a bit finer.
glimmer: This is a very nice step-by-step photo tutorial. ) I really like to see all the little details that can make or break a good mold. Congratulations on having some success with molding your parts. Molding is a craft skill, and it takes practice to get good at it. Well done! I am looking forward to seeing more. BTW, it looks like Summer in your neck of the woods? It is Winter here.
Mouldmaking is honestly one of the most intimidating parts of the process for me, all of the materials are so expensive, and I'm worried about wasting them as I learn. But step by step pictures like this definitely give some confidence. I also agree with it looking like summer! No snow at all!
One of the biggest advantages that I can see for using the PVC pipe for a mold box is that you can make your rubber cut so that it is covered by the PVC pipe when you pour the resin. That right there should cut down on resin leaks. Another advantage is that the PVC pipe is a mother mold which keeps distortion of the rubber to a minimum. After all, a silicone rubber mold is flexible, and should have some support, even with these small parts. One disadvantage that I can see is that the PVC pipe can hold a lot of rubber that isn't really needed, so over time, even though these are small molds, it can add up? My sculpture molds, made with flexible rubber, are about one half inch thick. I cover the sculpture with thin plastic, then make a clay blanket, one half inch thick over it. Then I make a plaster mother mold over that. It is important to register the mother mold to the molding board, so it can be put back over the sculpture. Then the plaster mother mold is removed, and coated inside with several layers of sealer (I use shellac). The clay blanket and plastic are removed from the sculpture. The clay is weighed, and the exact amount of flexible rubber is calculated from the weight of the clay. The mother mold is carefully placed over the sculpture and aligned with the registration marks on the molding board. I seal all around the mother mold with some clay, then cover that with some more plaster. The space where the clay blanket was, is empty, and that space is poured with flexible rubber. I do not know if it is really worth it to go to that much trouble for small doll parts? Probably not.
One other thought about saving on expensive silicone rubber. You can have ball joint patterns in mold boxes ready to pour excess rubber into. That way, no rubber is wasted. And if a ball joint mold doesn't fill all the way, it can always be filled the next time around. Just keep it covered so it does not get too dusty. Silicone rubber sticks to silicone rubber. Over the years, you will have a whole library of different sized ball joint molds for making any sized doll you want to make, and you will not have wasted any rubber making them.
wulfae I decided to post like this because I have made SO MANY mistakes and maybe this will help others avoid them.... it is summer here! glorious weather - we have been spending a lot of time at the beach.... here is where we went for holiday over christmas - (sorry for OT) kw - the pvc is great for cutting down on the leaks - it does hold the mould together, especially as I made only one cut, so it grabs the silicon mould. The other thing I think cuts down on the leaks is that you dont have to cut the silicon mould all the way down, so the silicon itself maintains integrity. Also that means way less seams. Your idea is a great one - about a clay space and plaster - that would definitly be less expensive. I noticed I think one of the french artists used that method to reduce silicon use. I will keep it in mind for when I feel more confident - at the moment, I am just trying to get one good mould and part!!! I am redoing everything except the torso, which turned out ok (I used this kind of approach with it. Slicon is expensive, yes. I probably should have gotten thinner pipe for these small moulds. I tried to reuse silicon from wasted moulds but it ended up creating defects via air getting trapped. More pics and learnings from today Here is the leg part I cast from the last mould above. You can see under my thumb a defect where air got trapped from a chunk of old silicon. I think you have to have quite large moulds to reuse it safely. This time I left a cap gap at the top. This made it easier to place the straw and air vents. As it turned out I didnt need the cap I poured Here is what it looked like when set For my second pipe mould I tried a wavy line to key the mould better But that didnt work so well for getting the master part out and I broke it I poured a lid but it wasnt neccesary. I also made the pour spout way too small - the resin just wouldnt go in on the first pour, so I had to pour through the hold meant for the middle straw, and then push the straw in through the setting resin to make the stringing channels. I will enlarge the pour hole for the second time around (the 2 parts I made today are still in the moulds) This was a much better way of keying for the third mould. it made it almost impossible for the mould not to fit back together properly.
I am really loving all these wonderful detail pictures of your mold making process!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you! All of them are so helpful, even the pictures of the things that did not go as well as you planned. You are showing views of your molds that are usually left out of a series of mold making pictures. All of these pix are totally awesome! That is quite a beautiful spot. Getting away from the day-to-day routine is also a part of the doll making process. A change of scenery and some fresh air is good for the soul. The method I described is a traditional way to make sculpture molds. Like I said, for a few small doll parts, I do not know if it is really worth the extra time it takes to do it? However, if you are planning on making a large number of molds, it might be worth it? My experiences making silicone rubber molds over sculpture, and trying to re-use chopped-up rubber were successful because I have always coated the pattern with a layer of pure rubber first, then added the chopped-up rubber to the second layer's batch of rubber after the first layer of rubber setup. One way to re-use the rubber might be to add the chopped-up rubber to left-over rubber that you can pour into a mold-box for different sized balls, for joints? Since these mold boxes are usually open ended, it is easier to get the trapped air out? Thank you again, for such a wonderful set of pix of your mold making process! I am learning so much here. )
If you don't mind me asking, are your molds all one piece? Why did you do that instead of a 2 piece mold?
thanks for your comments KW - your suggestion about a first layer then chunks is brilliant. Of course! that would fix the problem! I was made of fail when I tried to make 2 part moulds - I had resin pouring out everywhere and it totally traumatized me! I think I didnt do what I did on this one, which was to make a little moat sort of thing to stop resin leaking. Still, the one part mould means it is virtually impossible to leak, especially with the pvc piping. However for torso and bottom I will have to do 2 part to make them hollow and not have to drill. But update - those moulds made good, drill free parts, especially the last one, where I made those two curved keys. Even the one where I had to stuff the straw into the mould while it was setting the resin made a good part. By good, I mean good for me But I have bubbles, so many bubbles. I am resigned after doing some research to getting a pressure pot for the final moulds and casts and have started researching the best and lowest cost one. It was for this reason I wanted to try porcelain or the sort of slip that kw is planning to use, and I may still go that way since a compressor and pressure pot is likely to be unrealistic for my current work area (which is a table outside on our patio!) unless we are able to find our dream home by the time I get to that point.
I think that technique works best with larger, open molds; not small enclosed molds. You can try it with 3-piece torso molds, for example. Besides the moat all around the pattern, banding a 2-piece mold together helps. I'm sure that resin exerts some hydrostatic pressure when poured, even on small parts. If the mold halves are not banded together, the resin will lift the top and leak out. It seems to me that I recently saw a post by MisticUnicorn (Shelley The Turtle BJD), and she said she does not have to use a pressure pot. I think she is using Alumite resin?
Well I went out and bought myself a pressure pot and compressor - I needed to redo my moulds because they were epic fail and resin poured out of them, so I found a really good deal on compressor at super cheap auto (for those in Australia) - $89. And it works a treat - no more bubbles. And not nearly as intimidating as I thought it would be. Just pop the mould in the paint pot, connect the compressor and off you go. My paint pot only holds 3.2 bar and then the safety valve pops, but it seems to be enough so far... So here is an update for my junk cast of bottom. A lot of work still needed, but I have a mould that doesnt leak! and is bubble free. Next step is to drill, grind and refine the two torso pieces so they fit nicely, as well as sand the legs and fit them nicely. Also to create a headcap connector (probably magnets) and cast the headcap and head. Here she is with her torso , bottom and upper legs cast. The legs have a lot of apoxie to fill bubble holes and have to be sanded back. The knees are still wip. and to show her body shape from the back I redid her head quite a lot and am much happier with it
Thank you for the update pix! Congrats on the pressure pot and air compressor. $89 isn't too bad an investment. Cheaper than a kiln! I love the way she looks. I'm looking forward to seeing more of her.
thanks Kw and armelieia for your kind words. I do update every time I finish something, but I am terribly slow!!! My 15 year old stepdaughter is coming to live with us in a week, so I fear progress may become even more treacle like.....