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Sewing Resizing Human Patterns - Hand Drawn Method

Sep 16, 2013

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    1. NB - sorry the photo links have gone for this, but I think the written instructions still make sense? I had forgotten how I did this 6 years ago, but the instructions seem clear enough to me now I read them - hope everyone agrees. When I get time (moving house ATM) I'll try the method out again, and add some more up-to-date pics - thanks for your patience :aheartbea

      Inspired by the wonderful tutorial EilonwyG posted http://www.denofangels.com/forums/s...Patterns-TUTORIAL&highlight=resizing+patterns but having no scanner or printer, I decided to have a go at resizing by hand - and it worked! Accuracy is a bit hit-and-miss, so if it's a very fitted garment it is wise to do a test run with some poly/cotton first. This is all the equipment you need, plus some tissue paper to trace your drawings with to make the actual pattern. THIS WORKS BEST IF YOU USE CENTIMETERS

      [​IMG]

      You will be using the little diagrams which the pattern company print on their instructions - but depending on the complexity of the garment, these will vary in size, as you can see here

      [​IMG]

      so you need to measure your doll's back or arm to judge the amount of scaling up needed. I measured my doll's arm, then measured the full-length sleeve diagram. If the diagram measures 3cm, and the doll's arm measures 18cm, you need to divide 18 by 3 - and so on, depending on your own doll's measurements.

      In this example, 18 divided by 3 = 6......So the diagrams on the patterns need to be enlarged by (or multiplied by) 6 to fit your doll. As BJD have slightly elongated limbs compared to normal people, it's best to add a couple of centimeters to the final length of sleeves, skirts, trouser-legs etc. too.

      Then start drawing your pattern pieces, multiplying each measurement of the diagram by the number you obtained above. So if the centre front of the skirt diagram measures 4cm, you would multiply 4 x 6 for the doll I measured in the above example, then add a couple of centimeters as she has elongated legs compared to a human. So the skirt front pattern will measure 4x6=24cm (plus 2cm) - draw this line on your paper. Then measure the bottom of the skirt diagram, multiply by 6 again (or whatever your number was for your doll/your diagram) and draw that line, trying to ensure the angles are correct so that your corners are square.

      [​IMG]

      To calculate any curves on a garment, draw lines on the tiny diagram where the curve changes shape, and take measurements for the curve too. For example if the line curves in by 0.2mm on the diagram, multiply 0.2 x 6 = 1.2cm on your pattern drawing. The line will also curve up or down, as well as in or out, so measure that too, draw dots on your drawing at measured intervals, then join the dots to make the curve. Curves don't need to be exact though, so don't worry too much about accuracy.

      [​IMG]

      When you've drawn all your pattern pieces (keep the drawings in a ring binder for future use) trace them onto tissue paper and cut them out to use on fabric as a normal pattern.

      [​IMG]

      I used this pattern by simplicity

      [​IMG]

      to make a business suit for my doll Eunice (angel of dream Qian)

      [​IMG]

      I followed the pattern instructions pretty much, although I made the top she's wearing from a different pattern, which fastened up the back rather than having a side zip as in the above pattern. Having made the garments I would change a few methods used, especially in the jacket, which didn't really need lining for a doll, and would hang better without the extra bulk. Also I would neaten edges BEFORE sewing the garment - especially with this type of fabric, which frayed terribly. But I did learn a lot about using facings, and the importance of making sleeves wide enough for huge hands! The full-length sleeves were shortened as I couldn't get them over her hands!

      The fit isn't perfect either, which is why it's a good idea to make a trial run first using some old poly/cotton sheeting etc. I am too impatient for that kind of thing so I just went ahead and made the suit. I certainly couldn't have made it without this method, so I hope these instructions are clear enough to be of use to others.

      I used this pattern by New Look for Eunice's top

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]
       
      #1 elve, Sep 16, 2013
      Last edited: May 6, 2019
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      • x 8
    2. I have been looking at human patterns lately and wondering how to size them down, especially as I've been having printer trouble, so I was very very excited to see this!! Thank you for the clear instructions :)
       
      #2 ktlovesbjd, Sep 16, 2013
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    3. thanks ktlovesbjd - I look forward to seeing your creations! :kitty2
       
      #3 elve, Sep 16, 2013
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    4. Ahh~ Thanks for going to all the trouble~! I can't wait to try it out myself! <3
       
      #4 Song_of_Storms, Sep 19, 2013
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    5. Thanks for this awesomeness! Going to try it out this weekend. ^_^

      Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
       
      #5 Quiatis, Sep 19, 2013
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    6. Aaaah I've been looking for a tutorial like this everywhere ;u;
      you're a real savior! I'm gonna try this tomorrow <3
       
      #6 Kaito-len, Sep 23, 2013
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    7. Thanks for pointing these out! Working with human drafts will be so much easier now :)
       
      #7 Kuranosuke, Sep 28, 2013
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    8. Ah this is crazy helpful! I'm gonna have to try this out soon! o:
       
      #8 Chura, Sep 28, 2013
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    9. Wow this is brilliant! I make a lot of clothes for myself. Now I can make the same pattern for my doll. Thanks.
       
      #9 StaticEcco, Oct 3, 2013
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    10. Thanks for the tutorial, it's the first resize tutorial that ACTUALLY works, and I don't need to alter anything else :). i just have a concern, for resizing pants do I determine the factor number from the leg or the hips then measure the leg for length?
       
      #10 echo-chan713, Oct 5, 2013
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    11. GASP! I've been looking for an easier way to do this, every time I think of doing it I over complicate it. This is great, thank you so much!
       
      #11 Auds, Oct 8, 2013
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    12. This is excellent. I've be holding back on making patterns for some clothes for my doll. I was going to try to take measurements and then wing it as far as drawing the pattern pieces. I have lots of human patterns from the '60s and '70s that I would love to make in miniature. This tutorial is just what I needed.
       
      #12 notalizzerd, Oct 12, 2013
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    13. Silly question here I guess but how do you add the seam allowance? Is it already built into the pattern you're tracing or are you adding it afterwards? And if adding it afterwards, how are you going about doing so?

      Cheers
       
      #13 Quoth, Oct 13, 2013
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    14. this is something i have been wanting to try. thank you for this post! i'll try your way!
       
      #14 tsarina11, Oct 16, 2013
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    15. this is awesome :D definitely gonna give this a shot since coming up with my own stuff isn't really working out. xD
       
      #15 jennspeaks, Oct 21, 2013
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    16. Great choice! I haven't seen anything like these garments anywhere. Eunice looks so tailored and polished.

      I think this method of pattern adjustment works best if the design lines are clean and simple. Fussy, complicated designs have ample opportunities for mistakes and discrepancies. I would like to try it as well.
       
      #16 Meldandy, Oct 21, 2013
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    17. well I hope this is working OK for everyone :) has anyone tried making something yet? I should stress it's only going to give you an approximate pattern - it's best made up in muslin first (or polycotton sheeting - something cheap)

      the other thing I found was doll clothes construction is way simpler than human clothes construction in some cases - Dolls clothes don't need to be as hardwearing as human clothes do, and they are of course much smaller. So pants for instance, as echo-chan713 asked are actually easier for dolls, unless you want them super-realistic - I find this rough guide best for trousers/pants/leggings - adjust the shape to fit the style and size of your doll.

      [​IMG]

      If I was wanting an exact copy of human trousers/pants I'd use the length measurement, make it up in cheap fabric, and see how it needed adjusting. Really depends so much on your doll too - some dolls are more realistically proportioned (like humans) than others. For a super-curvy doll, you might be best enlarging a barbie sewing pattern (simplicity do a few) as barbie is super-curvy.

      Quoth in answer to your question, as the tiny drawings in the pattern instructions aren't exact, nothing will be exact. The tiny drawings include the seam allowance though, so I measure for example my doll's arm, add 3cm for a seam allowance top and bottom of the sleeve, approximately, then use that measurement when I'm scaling up the tiny pics - so the seam allowance is already included in your drawing if you've already included it in measuring your doll's arm, back, leg, etc. But it is only approximate. I find it's good to see the shape of the pattern pieces needed, as I wouldn't have guessed otherwise.

      You do have to use your judgement with this method - it's more like a starting point for a garment which you would otherwise have no idea how to construct. My latest garment using this method is the shirt from this pattern http://www.simplicity.com/p-2198-men-costumes.aspx - I followed the garment construction instructions, and cut approximate shapes similar to the tiny pics they give you - I didn't even bother drawing a pattern first, just measured and cut up the fabric - and it turned out perfect. If I hadn't had the pattern shapes and instructions to guide me, I wouldn't have known where to start at all.
       
      #17 elve, Oct 21, 2013
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    18. This is fantastic, thank you!
       
      #18 Aeri_Adore, Oct 21, 2013
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    19. This tutorial is fantastic! I'e tried the others and I get so confused and end up giving up on it, but with this one, I've actually managed to make the pattern and make a mock up of the dress too. Once I get the proper material and sew it, I'll add pics for everyone to see :) Thanks for the great tutorial :)
       
      #19 maymie692, Oct 22, 2013
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    20. oh that's brilliant maymie692 - well done, I look forward to seeing it! :fangirl:
       
      #20 elve, Oct 22, 2013
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    21. Super helpful, thanks!
       
      #21 Delenn, Nov 7, 2013
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    22. May need to try this.
       
      #22 Dragon_mother, Nov 10, 2013
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    23. I think I'm going to have a go at this. Now I just need to remember where I stashed all those vintage patterns.
       
      #23 Deathwish111, Nov 10, 2013
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    24. This is very helpful. I have wanted to learn how to sew clothes, and would like to start small. A friend started this way, and she makes the most amazing clothes. Thank you.
       
      #24 Vahlanaangel, Dec 3, 2013
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    25. Might have to try this during christmas! Visiting my family, and my mom has lots and lots of patterns! x3
      Thank you! :D
       
      #25 Darque, Dec 4, 2013
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    26. I've got a whole filing cabinet full of human sized patterns. This would be neat to try.
       
      #26 HarleyQuinne, Dec 6, 2013
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    27. This actually does work, at least it worked for me with my DZ Helen if anyone is still wondering if they should try it.
       
      #27 Kerantli, Dec 11, 2013
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    28. elve, THANK YOU!!! This might just be the tutorial to take me from just thinking about to actually making a garment! I have tried to follow countless other tutorials that have been posted here and elsewhere, but have found most to either have more steps to follow than my short attention span can cope with, or require tools / hardware / computer software / machinery I do not have or want to use. I am a lifelong diehard member of the "less is more" and "keep it simple" club!

      I have a query. Call me a dimwit, but I am unsure about where to begin and finish taking the arm and back measurements of my doll. Can you clarify the "measure from and up to" points on the body, please? Also, should the arm be bent when measuring it?

      Thank you, elve.
       
      #28 Gothico, Dec 12, 2013
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    29. Hi Gothico - what you have to bear in mind is this isn't EXACT - Dolls are differently proportioned to humans, so it's just approximate - Therefore make a garment in fabric which isn't expensive, and then when you try it on the doll, you can see where adjustments are needed. The jacket pattern I used for example - I could not get my AoD's massive 'claw' hands through the slim fitting sleeves - whereas a human would just close up their hand small. So I had to cut the sleeves 3/4 length and hem them again - this was after I'd fitted them as I didn't think about it until too late :XD:

      Also human patterns are more complicated than doll's clothing needs to be, because human clothes need frequent washing etc. So you can often simplify a pattern if it's for a doll - I didn't really need to line the skirt, or do a split in the back, but I learnt a lot from doing it anyway.

      Really don't worry too much about it being perfect - it won't be, due to the above reasons. But you can then work on it to perfect it in future garments. So I just took a measurement of the dolls arm from 'about' her shoulder to 'about' her wrist - then added on a couple of centimeters for seams and hems - because of course the tiny pics used in the commercial pattern include any seam allowances in the drawings. So it is an approximation - it's a jumping off point for a garment, which I would otherwise not be sure about constructing. You could quite easily just sew the entire thing by hand in running stitch first, then try it on the doll - It would then be easier to unpick bits and fit it better than if you'd sewn it by machine.

      Another good idea is to buy at least one commercial doll's clothing pattern - Simplicity do lots - This will give you some idea of the construction techniques for doll's clothes as opposed to human clothes - Trousers or pants for example are much easier made 'the dolly way' than the human way, although won't look as authentic or realistic made that way :)
       
      #29 elve, Dec 12, 2013
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    30. Noted!

      If you were measuring your doll's back for pattern re-sizing purposes, where would you measure "from" and "to"?

      Working with existing patterns is an excellent way to learn about garment construction and practise / hone those hand sewing stitches before attempting to draft patterns / blocks / slopers from scratch. Your tutorial has simplified the re-sizing process for me. I will not expect perfection, but will aspire to it!

      My thimble, needle and thread are at the ready. Thank you, elve!
       
      #30 Gothico, Dec 14, 2013
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    31. Gotta try this! Thank you!
       
      #31 Uaiiko, Dec 14, 2013
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    32. well good luck everyone I would love to see the results! :aheartbea

      Gothico with the back measurement it depends on the style of garment - Measure the part of the back which the human pattern would fit for I guess?
       
      #32 elve, Dec 14, 2013
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    33. Noted. Trial and error, I guess. Thank you, elve.
       
      #33 Gothico, Dec 14, 2013
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    34. I have quite a few old patterns floating around from random garage sales, and look forward to trying out this technique. I'm not sure how many tries it will take, as I have no experience in modifying or customizing patterns to begin with, let alone on this scale. I guess it will be a learning experience, but I will have to keep in mind that it is a valuable skill in the long run.
       
      #34 NekoMama, Feb 11, 2014
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    35. Thanks for the tutorial! I will try this soon <3
       
      #35 oni-chan, Feb 12, 2014
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    36. tomorrow i m gonna use the skills you give!
      thank you so much for sharing!!
       
      #36 estelle213, Feb 15, 2014
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    37. I'll have to try this out. I have a lot of patterns I've bought from second hand shops that would look great resized. Now to just find them, haha!
       
      #37 coldstar, Feb 28, 2014
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    38. Thank you! This will definitely come in handy. :)
       
      #38 hyacinthusmoon, Feb 28, 2014
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    39. Thank you so much for this! Going to subscribe for future sewing
       
      #39 Ballet, Mar 9, 2014
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    40. Thank you so much!! Your method seems to make so much more sense than the other tutorials I've seen.
       
      #40 Snowshoes, Mar 31, 2014
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    41. [​IMG]

      My first attempt at doing this, using a Simplicity pattern for a halter dress. There are a few things I would do differently next time around, namely making a back closure instead of side, and doing away with the terrible pleats at the shoulders. The midsection needs to be lengthened, too, as Elfdolls (at least the old body) tend to be long in the torso. All in all, it was a moderate success. I'd give the project a C.

      Model is an Elfdoll Pandora.

      Thank you so much for the tutorial, I look forward to practicing some more.
       
      #41 Pazuzu, Apr 12, 2014
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    42. This is so amazing I wanted to thank you. I have a large stash of patterns and some vintage patterns that would make great doll clothes. I know that JoAnn Fabrics have patterns for $1. Each month they have a different pattern company so you can pick up patterns very cheap. I have spent $15 on a doll pattern. I usually spend about $10 per pattern.
       
      #42 Maryruth, May 8, 2014
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    43. I'm using part of this tutorial for some of my bjd pattern converting right now, it works well and only a few adjustments have to be made to fit the longer line of the bjd body.
      Maryruth you are so lucky to be able to get patterns at a good price ^^.
      The patterns here are far too expensive... even on sale it's 3 for $10 if it's Simplicity or Butterick (and those sales are only twice a year T_T). My local fabric store doesn't have sales on the Vogue patterns, wish they would :(
       
      #43 IsabelleR, May 8, 2014
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    44. Thank youuuu 8__8
       
      #44 Stolen, May 8, 2014
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    45. Thank you for thisits so helpful.
      I have tried to scale up the patterns but just could not work out how.
      I am away to get the sewing machine out.
       
      #45 Zoo Lady, May 23, 2014
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    46. Thanks so much for making this tutorial been looking for one like it for a while! (^_^)
       
      #46 LolitaTifa, May 23, 2014
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    47. This is a really nice tutorial! I enjoyed your outcomes very much!
       
      #47 PhadeSkye, Aug 18, 2014
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    48. Thanks for the help!!! This tutorial is exactly what I was looking for.
       
      #48 StephinWV, Aug 19, 2014
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    49. This is FANTASTIC! Thank you so much. I don't have a printer right now, since mine is out of ink, and I think it may not have made the move with me last time. I'm looking forward to getting started sooner now!:D
       
      #49 RealmTender, Aug 30, 2014
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    50. This is an excellent tutorial! Thank you so much for sharing this method. I have all kinds of patterns around from sewing things for myself. It's great to know that they will get some extra use for my dollies as well.
       
      #50 Varoness, Aug 30, 2014
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    51. Awesome!! I have tons of those magazines, i'll start withmy patterns rigth now!
       
      #51 Mavya, Sep 20, 2014
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    52. the pictures are not showing.. although the explanation is really clear. Thanks :)
       
      #52 Latefa, Dec 2, 2014
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    53. Photos are no longer there. would love to see original pattern.
       
      #53 Denisewha, Dec 2, 2014
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    54. why are all the pictures gone? how can anyone follow this now?
       
      #54 ameiru, Jan 28, 2016
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    55. I think they just migrated a bunch of stuff to another thread. Cause when I went to /posts/11826538/ there were the pics & my posts.
       
      #55 Teleri, Jan 28, 2016
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    56. Thank you for this! I don't like math but I would totally do some basic math for my dolls! This had been the most helpful as I own so many patterns and I want to use them for once. Oh my goodness I feel excited for the hobby again. I guess I love sewing but I never was any good at it. Thank you for making it easier! :)
       
      #56 Skyland, Mar 2, 2016
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    57. Interesting idea! would be great if we could see the pictures again, but I get the idea from the description. I'll have to give this a try.
       
      #57 Bears, Apr 26, 2016
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    58. :atremblini can't understand without seeing the picture
       
      #58 xolovetari, Oct 20, 2017
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    59. I think I get what’s going on without the pics. Time to experiment!
       
      #59 Tenya Muyo, Mar 6, 2019
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    60. wow this is extremely helpful!! thank you dear
       
      #60 pressed.petals, Apr 13, 2019
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