Questions about making

you don't have to use super sculpy for making a doll :grin: . you can also use stoneclay. it air dries so no baking (or burning ) the only problem with stoneclay is that if you get it wet it mushes up again. so you have to coat it with some stuff so it won't go gooey later.

with stoneclay you can use styrafoam (or florists foam, use florists f.) but you can't use that as a base with any things you need to bake, since it lets off fumes ops: . with styrafoam you can carve it out afterwords.

minus to stoneclay- once it dries, it will be very difficult to add on. same with bake-able clays too. but you can let them sit overnight and have them be fine and still good to work with the next day. you can also do that with stoneclay but to a certian degree, if you cover it with a damp towel it should stay wet.

i've heard others have had trouble with pulling the tinfoil out of parts but it may have just been packed too tightly. i'm to chicken to use sculpy, so i can't say much about it.

sandpaper on stoneclay- not so great, it dries very hard. i would suggest a dremmel or another smooth layer of stoneclay on top (try la doll and priemer, i use stonex though)

and about the s hook, i'm not sure how lishe's are strung but if it's a thick enough bit of clay around it it might be okay, but i'm not sure i would risk it. i would have the s hook pulling against the opening at the bottom of the head (would be bad if the head collapsed with s hook other places)

just use some kind of coating over the paint (heavy duty stuff)

i can't say i'm an expert but i've looked it up a lot ops:

helpful links at the top of the page as a sticky! :wink:

luck with your doll project and i'm sorry i couldn't be much more help about sculpy!

~Dottie

 

Super Sculpey breaks pretty easily, actually. I'm an insufferable klutz and manage to break everything, though XDD

 

personally i decided to use stoneclay and no only that but at my local craft store they sell liquid air drying resin and an instant make a mold...so what i plan on doing is sculpting...even out the layer and then finally casting it.
I hope it workds too because i worked really hard on it up to this point

 

i prefer stoneeclay (stonex) only because even if you leave it out all night you can always get it workable again by adding water to it and its not as brittle as sculpey

 

I kept looking at stonex, but couldn't figure out if that was the one I needed u.u
People have suggested Premeir and La Doll, but those are probably best for dolls that you don't plan to cast.

 

Cernit is a brand of polymer clay, which you bake in a home oven to cure.

Sculpy & SuperSculpy are another brand of polymer clay.

This FAQ (frequently asked questions) list seems to give a pretty good idea of the properties of polymer clay in general.

http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/pcc/pcfaq2.html#brands
This is the second page; it lists properties of the various clays. On page one, the manufacturing country is listed for each clay.

Under Cernit, they say: Medium cost; Tough & Strong; Very Nice working texture; Colors not much pigment; made in Germany; "Best product for doll making"


Removing the aluminum foil after the doll is baked can be tricky--I expect you will remove the body foil through the arm & legs holes; if there is a body joint, then the foil comes out the large hole there.

Painting on oven bake clay is usually acrylic paints, just like are often used for face-ups on the resin dolls. They stay on quite well, but you may additionally add acrylic finishes such as varnish or Mister Super Clear, if you wish.

You will probably want to reinforce the hand & foot & probably head attachment points; a piece of wire or cut-down nail, well-imbedded in the clay, will work very nicely.

Good luck; and cernit will definately work.


Ann in CT

 

I use "FIMO dukkeleire" witch you can buy at Panduro, it says on the etiquette that it is perfect for sanding and painting with Acrylics. :grin: One 500g pack cost about 100 Kr

 

Yay! I hope you'll share pictures ^.^