Moulage is a reusable mold material made from agar. It is suitable for casting wax or plaster. It is one of the traditional sculpture molding materials. I have made some posts about moulage at my weblog: http://atelierpoupee.blogspot.com/search/label/moulage Moulage may be reused 50 to 100 times, making it a very economical mold material for casting wax or plaster. Moulage can be used to make life molds on human skin. To use it, it must be melted. Then, when it cools down some, it may be brushed, or poured over the model to be molded. After casting, the moulage mold material is cut up and stored until the next use.
That is some REALLY nice stuff. And it can make two parts? Hmm. How many times can it be used before it needs to be cut up and remelted? Say, I make a wax cast, can I pour the cast five times with the same mold, or will I need to remake the mold each time?
if you use it please wear hand protection. I had very a nasty hand burn the other year using some melt and pour material, it keeps cooking your hand even after it's left the pot.
moulage mold It all depends on the mold. Undercuts, sharp points and edges, and other things can influence how many casts you can make. Moulage does not stick to anything, not even itself. So yes, multi-piece molds are quite doable. The mold has to be kept moist. This can be as simple as putting the mold in a plastic bag if you need to store it overnight. I recently read that brushing the interior of the moulage mold with an alum solution before pouring molten wax, toughens the mold somewhat. From my own experience, I would say that you could possibly get five good sharp casts from a mold that was handled nicely. Here again, it all depends on the mold. If you try it, let me know!
moulage mold Moulage melts at about 150 degrees Fahrenheit, and sets at about 110 degrees Fahrenheit. When you use moulage to make a mold from life, make sure you let the moulage cool down before applying it to the skin. This is very important! Use a thermometer to test the temperature of the melted moulage before applying it to human skin. Moulage itself does not stick to anything, not even hair or skin. I have tried my very best to put as much information as I could find about moulage on my weblog. A moulage mold can be used to cast wax and plaster. I am currently testing it as a doll mold material for casting carving wax. The big benefit is that moulage is reusable. I'm sorry to hear about your burn, Maggs. I hope you recovered okay? No scarring?
ah thank you KW, i'm not familiar with that particular brand but i'm now paranoid about telling people about burns with any melted materal. I was EXTREMELY lucky, my burn covered 1/3 of the back of my right hand and i only have a 5x5mm and a couple of pinhead scars in a line over the back of my hand. AND i was wearing hand protection. so yes everyone: Hand protection AND thermometer!!!
I'm glad to hear that the burn wasn't too awful, Maggs. What I recommend for doing any life casting (useful for sculpting references) is alginate. Alginate is very similar to moulage, but it is mixed and applied cold. When I first used alginate for life casting, back in the 80's, I used Dental Alginate. It was quite expensive! Alginate is a molding material that is very safe for human skin. :XD Nowdays, there are much less expensive alginates available for sculptors than Dental Alginate. ) However, alginate is still expensive in that it cannot be reused. So, consider using moulage for making dolly molds. Use alginate for making molds from life. There is absolutely no danger of getting burned when using alginate. ) There are several different brands of alginate available now, and scads of life molding/casting tutorials out there in Internet-landia.
after some search I think that the french name for this product is "Alginate réversible", but the one I find can be use also with some kind of Polyuréthane résin that is not affect by humidity. That is really interesting for fast molding as molding a head to make a new dreaming version without loosing silicon. Definitly need to try this on a current project, I will let you know my thought about that. Just one question I read that is possible to make 2 parts molds in that case do you think that it work when pouring the moulage on the second mold part in plasticine ? As moulage is hot
I don't think you should use plasticine with moulage. I used another re-useable molding material that had to be melted down before pouring, and used plasticine with it, but it was a very bad idea and didn't work. I wish the retailer had told me when I ordered those two things together. Also because PU resin tends to get a little hot sometimes when it's curing, this was affecting the molds as well. I'd be interested to find out more about PU resin that is not moisture/humidity sensitive.
Plasticine pattern and spare in a clay build-up. Pour the first half of moulage mold over plasticine pattern. Let the first half of the mold set up (cool). Turn pattern over and remove clay build-up. Carve registration keys in first half of mold. Pour second half of moulage mold over plasticine pattern. Let the second half of the mold set up (cool). Open mold and remove pattern and spare. The two-part mold is ready to pour a wax or plaster casting. Note: Moulage molds are somewhat flexible, and they need a mother mold. I don't see why it would not work. Moulage does not stick to itself, or anything else. You do not need a parting agent. Once the moulage is melted, let it cool down some, before pouring it. You shouldn't have any problems that I can think of. What was the other reusable molding material? I have never melted plasticine and poured it. Is that what you tried to do? I do not see why moulage cannot be poured over a plasticine pattern. Moulage melts at 150 degrees Fahrenheit, but it sets up at about 110 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool moulage mold is very similar to a water saturated plaster mold. I am pouring melted carving wax into a cool moulage mold. The carving wax is about 140 degrees Fahrenheit when it is poured. I have not noticed any loss of detail in the casting, compared to the pattern. Plaster also has an exothermic reaction when it sets up, and I do not see any problems casting plaster into a moulage mold. I am also interested in a PU resin that is humidity resistant. A moulage mold is very humid!
I used something called Gelflex. My master was a urethane and apoxie head. I prepared the master and fixed it with plasticine. When pouring the hot Gelflex, the plasticine was softened and melted so that it would not hold it's form, a detriment to the integrity of the mold and the master cavity placement within it. The gelflex I used was yellowish, and could be cut into chunks and remelted and poured, but it didn't seem very durable, and would only give a few good casts, possibly due to exotherm heat formed from resin curing within the gelflex mold. http://www.fredaldous.co.uk/product_151050010.htm Gelflex melts at around 135 degrees celsius (275 F). It is not moist like you describe the moulage to be. If you have used moulage with plasticine successfully, then it is possible it might work, but otherwise one might consider looking into a clay that does not soften or melt as easily when exposed to heat. I have not melted and poured plasticine, but it would be possible, it would have to be very cold and hard before demolding to ensure it doesn't deform, though.
Recently, I ordered some more moulage for my studio. This time around, I ordered a 5 pound container of moulage. http://atelierpoupee.blogspot.com/2011/07/art-materials-arrived.html I am using moulage to make waste molds of doll parts for casting carving wax. The original doll parts are made from brown sculpture wax (Victory Brown). When I make a mold, I use plastilina to make the clay build-up. I always let the moulage cool down some from the melting temperature, before pouring. When casting carving wax in a moulage mold, it behaves very similar to casting in a water-saturated plaster mold. The carving wax thickens around the walls of the mold. When the thickness is enough, I pour the excess carving wax back into the wax pot. I have never melted and poured Plastilina oil-clay.
I'm using something similar to Gelflex, "Vinamold", I believe it is basically the same thing, a vinal rubber. I'm using the Red kind which is the most flexible of the available types, and I would suggest getting one of the less flexible kinds if anyone plans on investing in it. It's reuseable, seems reasonably durable and is quite true to detail. It melts at around 140C like Gelflex, and i've never had any issues pouring the hot Vinamold over plasticine (I use "Newplast"), however I did have a mishap with carving wax recently. I had a rough wax sculpt of a brooch i planned to finish in PMC and used hot Vinamold to make a junk mold, this resulted in a perfect mold of the sculpt , but the sculp itself was warped and different afterwards. Strange happenings.
Hot-pour Moulage is a gelatin made from seaweed. Moulage melts at about 150 degrees Fahrenheit. Once it melts, I stir it to make it smooth (dissolve chunks), and let it cool down some. Then I pour it over my wax pattern and Plastilina oil-clay buildup, in a cardboard mold box. Moulage does not stick to anything, not even itself. My brown sculpture wax has a melting point of about 165 degrees Fahrenheit. Moulage does not warp or melt the wax pattern, nor melts the Plastilina. The Gelflex and Vinamold vinyl mold materials melt at about 135-140 degrees Celcius. 135-140 degrees Celcius is 275-284 degrees Fahrenheit. 212 degrees Fahrenheit is the boiling temperature of water ! 275-284 degrees Fahrenheit is very hot !!! I do not think that either of these vinyl mold materials are similar to Hot-pour Moulage? They are an entirely different type of mold material.
I agree, they are different to Moulage, but much easier to source here in the UK. But they are also a easier to look after, they dont need to be stored air tight and they're always at the right consistancy; no need to add or boil off water. It also will not stick to itself or anything else really if used correctly. But I certainly wouldn't want to use a vinyl rubber to take casts of real body parts, which is something Moulage is extremely good for; it would be far too hot. You have to be vey careful pouring vinal rubber molds as it can act a little like napalm and stick to your skin while it's still liquid. )
I ordered some hot-pour Moulage and it arrived yesterday. I hope to try it out soon and see how it works. It would be great if I can also use it to make a mold of sculpts in oil clay without melting it. kwmelvin: do you happen to know what the pouring temperature is? Eventually it has to be cooled off so much pouring for mold making is unfeasible. But assuming it is comfortable enough to use onto human flesh for making a mold seems promising. Definitely don't want to be getting any burns over here.
hot-pour moulage I am glad to hear that you got some moulage, Mothi. I hope you will share your experiences using it. Moulage is easy to use, and reusable, making it relatively inexpensive in the long run. I really do not use hot-pour moulage to make molds from life, although it has been used for that purpose in the past. I use a thermometer with a stem to get a temperature reading when I am melting moulage and when I pour it. If I remember correctly, I am pouring it at about 130-140 degrees Fahrenheit. To get an idea of how hot that is, the common household water heater usually heats the hot water to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. When my children were young, I set the water heater temperature down to 120 degrees Fahrenheit, so they could not scald themselves with tap water. I would not recommend using hot-pour moulage to make molds from life, unless you are very experienced using it. From the tutorials I have seen for making moulage molds from life, the moulage is brushed on the skin at about 115 degrees Fahreheit. Using a thermometer, and testing the melt with your finger will allow you to know when the moulage is comfortable enough to apply to the skin. For making molds from life, I would recommend using Alginate. Alginate is not reusable, but it can be mixed and poured at room temperature. It comes in a dry powder and is mixed with water, then applied to the skin. It is hypoalerginic, as far as I know, much like moulage. Alginate does not stick to itself or anything else, although, if you are using it for making life molds, it is recommended to apply a lotion to the skin before using it because it will grab body hair, making removal uncomfortable. Many years ago, when I made some life molds with alginate, the only alginate available was Dental Alginate, and it was mint-flavored because it was meant to be used to make molds inside of people's mouths. Anyway, the mint-flavored alginate smelled good, and people enjoyed it on their skin. I think that hot-pour moulage sets at about 110 degrees Fahrenheit. The water in a Japanese ofuro is about 120 degrees Fahrenheit, and some people find that temperature to be uncomfortable. So 115 degrees F is probably a good temperature to apply it. A plaster bandage mother mold is usually made over the moulage mold to support it. I mainly use moulage to make molds from oil-clay, or sculpture wax patterns which will be used for casting carving wax for further refinement. This link is to all the posts I have made about moulage at my weblog: http://atelierpoupee.blogspot.com/search/label/moulage