20–39cm Dolls Making my first bjd with 3d printing

How cool! I love seeing new dolls in progress!

I like her nose a lot - very cute! Also I love the choice to give her shorter legs - so many sculpts have looooong legs that it is nice to have a change!

I've never sculpted a bjd, but I'm sure that it involves lots and lots of testing of different types of joints. I think one reason you may be having problems with leg posing is the type of hip joints you've used. The hip "balls" attached to the torso are not very round, which means they will have a short range of motion. And since they won't function very well, the next two leg joints have nothing to engage with to hold poses.

The best thing to do here is to look at many different types of dolls (in person is good, but videos and photos also help) to see how effective joints work together.

If you want the first hip balls attached to the torso, take a look at Dollstown (the sculptor seems fond of that style).

Similarly, even though the arms/elbows may be working well for you, the extra joint in the lower arm is confusing. I'm not sure what its purpose is (since the peanut elbow joint should supply the bending/twisting ability). Doll Chateau often includes some extra arm/leg joints in their dolls but that is an aesthetic thing and they are usually close to the foot or hand.

There are no wrong/right choices here - everyone has a right to sculpt their doll according to their own standards of aesthetics and engineering. However, if you want a very posable doll I would study dolls that are known to be flexible (Pasha Pasha, Bimong, Chimera Dolls on Instagram, etc.). Also check out an artist called BoneLace on Instagram, as that person has posted some very interesting things about doll-making. And also check out the artist FooYumeDoll on Instagram - she's sculpting a body with shorter legs and a soft belly - it might be helpful for you to see how she's handling it (plus the dolls are just gorgeous and inspiring to look at).

I hope this helps! Keep up the good work and keep having fun!

P.S.
The images are not embedded in the post, but I can see them when I click on the links.

 

I agree, her face is cute!

About the hip joints, and ball joints in general:

You have to consider the pivot point, the point that the joint rotates around.
The elastic will always strive to contract and take the shortest possible route. In a perfect world, with a perfect ball joint, that point should typically be dead center inside the sphere. This way the distance from the pivot point to the joint surface stays the same regardless of what position the joint is moved to, there is no shorter route available and so the joint stays in the position you left it.
Always consider both the inside and outside of every piece when planning the joints. The shape and length of the slits and width of the channels are just as important as the joint surfaces.
If the pivot point is off center, the joint will be snappy. This can be caused by a number of things.
It can be a design flaw (or feature) where the joint shape is not a sphere, and so the distance between the contact surface and the pivot point varies across the joint surface. This can be intentional to make a joint favor a certain position, but in general it mostly causes a joint that is hard to control.
It can be a stringing problem. If the channels are very wide and the doll is strung with thinner elastic, this will move the pivot point forward so that the joint will tend to snap to it's extreme positions. If the elastic is thicker than the joint was designed for the pivot point is instead mover further out and this can cause the joint to not want to stay bent. You have to consider the thickness of the elastic when designing the joint.

About the lower arm joint:
If the elbow joints are spherical, these will be able to rotate into any direction.
You will need to make corresponding cutaways in the arm sections to allow the joint to bend to it's full potential, this effects the range of the joint and to some extent rotation as well. If there is material in the the way, the joint obviously won't be able to move as far. You can use this to your advantage to control the joint and make it move in a desired way, allowing a good range of natural looking poses.

This is also true for knee joints:
This is a joint where you may not want a lot or rotation, as that can make the joint a bit unstable when it has to deal with the weight of the doll for standing positions.
You can make the joints with slightly flattened sides and of course making the corresponding adjustments to the sockets. This gives more stability and may make the doll easier to pose in natural ways, since human knees don't exactly rotate much.
If the hip joint is spherical and well balanced, you can get rotation there for sitting cross legged and things like that.

Over all, I think you've made a very good start. Doll making is always a lot of trial and error. And I'd say it's about equal parts artistry and engineering.
More of the later if you intend to make the doll castable as there are a lot more technical stuff to consider then.
Getting the the Artist and the Craftsman in your head to work together and pull in the same direction is not always easy, but it's a necessity of doll making.
And if you ever desire to make a commercially viable product, you have to let the Economist into the room as well.

Spoiler: About the images not showing up.

The images are not embedded in your post, they appear to be on a cloud, rather than a regular host? You need to host them somewhere that allows hotlinking. Once they are hosted, you just grab the URL (make sure it's the url to the actual image, not a to some gallery page or preview or anything like that), click the image icon in the toolbar when writing your post and paste the URL into the box that pops up. Click the "Insert" button and the image should show up in your post.
Make sure the image is of an appropriate size and format for forum use. Anything taller than about 600 pixels and wider than about 800 is excessive as it will require either scrolling or zooming out to view the whole picture. It's just a waste of band width. If the image is too large it may not show up at all, and what's worse, since this is a "tragedy of the commons" type of thing, other peoples images will be less likely to show as well.
Your links are working fine, though. So it's still possible to look at your work, even if it requires a few extra clicks.

Thanks for sharing your project! I'm looking forward to see how she comes along and i wish you the best of luck.

 

Very impressive! I already have several BJDs from a 3D printer in my collection. Your creation looks great! The body reminds me of my "River", a Twigling Artifex Minigenue.
I really like the head/face with the Asian features And the feet with magnets - cool!
I'm so curious to see what the finished lady will look like!

 

It looks very good! Yes, the winter weather... It always slows me down during face-ups. So, time to sew. Although resin bodies look tempting, clothing also looks very nice on them.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and your family as well.

 

That looks like a much more spherical set of joints - better for mobility indeed!

I'm sorry about the weather problems - even though warm weather has its own set of problems, I do miss it!

Happy Christmas and a hopeful New Year to you and yours!

P.S. The image worked just fine!