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Making Molds ~ INTERLUDE; The Pressure Pot

May 20, 2008

    1. I have more pictures coming of the moldmaking process, but I remember to take some pictures of my pressurepot the other day, and I thought I should make a separate post about that.

      [​IMG]
      Probably the most interesting part of the pressurepot is the lid.. at any rate this is the part that has all the bits on it that might need a little explaining.

      The black thing with the dial is the gauge ~ it shows what the pressure is inside the pot. Currently the hose is not connected and the lid is not on, nor attached to the pot.

      Coming off the gauge there (still looking at the black thing) is a nut and a valve. The valve lets you control the maximum amount of pressure allowed in the pot, while tightening the nut stops the emergency release from engaging before you have the desired pressure inside. You can't see the emergency release in this picture, it will be visible in the ones below.

      In the middle of the lid is the handle.. that's pretty handy for picking up the lid.

      On the left is a metal blob with a huge bolt in it.. this is where (if the pot is set up for painting, which they usually are if you don't buy them from a casting supplier) the paintgun and hose would be attached. Because I don't want the pressure escaping, nor use the pot for painting, I have plugged the hole up with a bolt and thread-tape. There are threads inside the hole, and you need to get a bolt with the right sort of threads, else it won't fit, or will let air escape.

      On the right is the air/pressure intake. This is where you connect the airhose from the compressor (seen here in the form of a yellow/blue tube in background). To this I have attached a ball-valve (green handle, currently in the closed position), which fell of the back of Ron's workplace. This handle makes it a lot easier to control the speed of the airflow into the pot when you're filling it, and also when emptying it after disconnecting the hose.

      [​IMG]
      The little gold-coloured thing with the pull ring is the emergency pressure release. If you pull the ring while the pot is under pressure, air will start to come out and the pressure will go down. It will also pop out if you fill the pot to a higher PSI (pounds per square inch) than the valve/nut assembly on the front has been tightened to allow. Once the pressure lowers a little, the emergency release will pop back in by itself, but you can also push it in with your finger.

      Notice all the burrs along the rim of the lid.. this is where the wingnuts that hold the lid on have been tightened countless times in the last year or so..... I'll have to get some pictures of the pot when it's all sealed up too at some point!!


      My workflow in point for would be as follows

      Make sure compressor is plugged into power source and connected to the hose that goes up to my workshop.

      Test to see how many molds I can fit into pressurepot.

      Mix and pour resin (or silicone) accordingly.

      Put molds with resin poured into pressure pot.

      Attach lid and tighten the nuts two at a time (the ones across from each other) by hand as far as I can turn them.

      Tighten the nuts across from each other with a tool that gives you some leverage.

      Attach airhose.

      Open ball-valve and watch the gauge.

      Close ball-valve when pot reaches desired PSI (60 for resin, 70-80 for silicone ~ some pots are graded to not go higher than 50 psi... including mine, but I have had it up to 80 with no trouble. Can't recommend this, so just be careful).

      Disconnect hose (optional).

      If you need to leave stuff in there for several hours, check back occasionally and top up with more pressure if needed.

      Have a cup of tea and check email.

      When ready: To release pressured air; [disconnect hose if you haven't already], I like to turn it full ball and cover my ears as it is quite loud;)

      Take out molds and start demolding.

      Enjoy!!
       
    2. thanks---this is really great info!!!
       
    3. THAT's what that thing is for!! I couldn't for the life of me figure it out, so I removed it, replaced it with a simple pressure gauge, and put ball-valves on the intake and output sides. I ended up destroying the emergence release valve when I tried to loosen that area, so I just keep a really close eye on the pressure when I use it. My system doesn't leak, unless the wingnuts holding the lid in place aren't tightened enough, but I also haven't gotten more than 35 psi in the tank at any point yet. (I'm using a cheap-o air-brush compressor, and it craps out above that point - I seriously need to upgrade, but can't afford it right now.. Will definitely reinstall the original nut & valve gauge and a new emergency release with the upgraded air compressor)
       
    4. Just a few extra points and random things I've taken pics of in the workshop... loosely related to the pressure pot:

      [​IMG] Make sure you have one of these and wear it when you are casting, molding or sanding.

      [​IMG]
      Snapshot of pressurepot when the lid is sealed.

      [​IMG]
      I tighten the nuts on the lid by hand as far as I can, and then I give them an extra turn or so with this handy tool which is just a piece of metal off-cut.

      [​IMG] Pressurepot in action, pressure up to 72-ish PSI, ball-valve is closed so no more air is going in.

      [​IMG] Closeup of the ball-valve and connections. Ball-valve is open when in line with the hose, perpendicular means it is closed. The hose I bought came with connections that weren't compatible with our compressor, so I had to cut the ends off and put the right connectors on.
       
    5. I was going to ask how in the world you tighten that thing by hand to withstand over 70 Psi.. :) Mystery solved. :p

      Oh, and dad just bought himself a cute new 6 gallon air compressor... >:3 *grabby-hands!*
       
      #5 kitsuneudon, Jun 6, 2008
      Last edited by a moderator: Jun 6, 2008
    6. Thanks for posting all of this pressure pot info. It will be really helpful in the future. So, do you just need a pressure pot and an air compressor and you are ready to go, or are there any other tools one may need to get started?
       
    7. Hmm, well there are invariably always other things that you need... definitely a long hose to go from the compressor to the pot. you don't want to be in the same room as the compressor if you can avoid it. The hose needs to have fittings on each end that are compatible with the pot and the compressor too.

      I talked to my bf about the compressor we have, it has a capacity of 15 cubic feet per minute (he bought it to paint cars). He says a smaller compressor would do the job, as long as it can build up the amount of pressure you need. For example, for resin you need 60PSI to implode the air bubbles, so the compressor would need to have a designated pressure of at least 60PSI. And for silicone, you need about 70-80 PSI to squeeze the bubbles out while it is curing (I get a lot of airbubbles in my silicone when I mix it.) Also when you look for a pressurepot, make sure it is rated to fill up to 80psi. Mine is rated for 50PSI, and while I do bring it up to 80PSI sometimes, I don't want to recommend this to others, as I'd rather not be held responsible for anything anyone does based on advice from me which results in damage or injury.

      I mix my resin and pour it in the mold, then place the mold inside the pressurepot, seal the lid on and attach the hose from the compressor, turn the air on and let it fill up to what I want (usually 60PSI) and then cut the air off.. I have a ball valve attached between the hose and pot to make it easier to let air in and out. I don't get bubbles in my castings as long as I have made proper airvents in my molds so no air is trapped.

      So you need to find out what the specifications are for your compressor and when you go shopping for a pressurepot, ask the sales staff if your compressor is big enough to fill the pressurepot within a reasonable amount of time. Mine stores enough compressed air to fill the 10 litre pressurepot about 3 times before the compressor turns back on, while a smaller compressor might need to run while the pressurepot is filling up, and this it might take longer for the pot to fill with air. This is where resin with longer curing time helps a lot.
       
    8. Can you stack molds inside the pressure pot?
       
    9. Yes I think so, as long as the lid still fits on without squishing or knocking anything and there is a little bit of space above the vents.
       
    10. Thanks so much for the turtorial! I think this should be stickied!
       
    11. Can you cast hollow casts without a spin caster?So that a doll can have glass eyes?
      hugs
       
    12. I don't use a spin caster (or a roto-caster), and my dolls can wear glass eyes. The heads are not solid casts, the are hollow by using a two part mold. The head is also two parts, a back and a front or a top and a bottom... like a jar with a lid.
       
    13. I'm very grateful to have found your post. Thanks so much for sharing your experience and knowledge.
       
    14. We cast the outside of my doll's head, and the inside. So the outside was sculpted and the inside was sculpted, too. My brother (casting technician) is no longer working with me so I'm now learning casting and can't talk intelligently about it yet, but he made a mold of the back... the front... and a third one for the inside. Then he suspended the "inside" mold into the "outside" mold, and poured.

      I can't find any writing about this technique for casting heads. Twigling, is this what you do?
       
    15. Try looking up three part molds or core molds. More specific terminology helps with searching.

      And another question for the thread- how big is your pressure pot? I've been looking at them online, but have no clue as to what size would be appropriate for an sd-sized doll (maybe cast it in two waves?)

      Edited for a second question- are the pressure pots an "end-all" for air bubbles? Assuming low humidity can you easily (1-2 casts) get perfect or near perfect results?
       
      #15 Ailieru, Sep 1, 2009
      Last edited by a moderator: Sep 1, 2009
    16. Thanks ailieru.
       
    17. it is easier to understand if you post pictures :( words are inaccurate sometimes
       
    18. Pressure Pot Questions!! XD

      I was thinking of making my own, it would be a lot cheaper but to tell the truth I have no Idea what I would be doing lol. Would it be safer to buy a store made one? *The best one I found thats actually a pressure pot is only $220, not too bad*

      I saw you mention it gets really loud. I live in an apartment, so will there be anything too loud? Or can I just adjust it to not be so loud and just have to wait awhile for the air?

      The pot Im thinking of getting looks exactly like yours *minus all the tweeking you did ^^* and I was wondering what you used for the air supply hose (does it have to be rigid nylone tubing?) and the NPT air inlet connector
       
    19. #19 divi, Sep 14, 2009
      Last edited by a moderator: Sep 14, 2009
    20. How do you figure out which kind of hoses to buy? Tx...
       
    21. I'm thinking about buying this compressor:

      http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

      It's 5.5 SCFM (does anyone know what the "S" stands for?) at 90 PSI, 26 gallon, and got great reviews on the automobile customizers' forum... figure those guys know their compressors! :)

      Plus I'm pretty sure it's the one my brother (my erstwhile casting tech) used with good results...

      Any thoughts?
       
    22. divi, I don't know the tech speak, but you're better off buying the whole setup from a resin distributor as then you know it will all work together.
       
    23. Hi twigling;
      great tutorial. Im just looking into making my molds. can you tell me how to post large pics on here. I posted in the work in progress a new thread. you can look at it. pics of my doll in progress. but the pics are small and you have to click on each one to view it. I ve looked all over the site for a loading pics tutorial here.
       
    24. We don't have any tutorials here at The Joint for posting pictures, but I'm sure you could find general information for vBulletin forums and how to use the code etc to post pictures and so on.

      I'm testing the picture thing in your WIP thread.
       
    25. This may be a dumb question, but are pressure pots absolutely necessary for casting resin? Is there a cheaper alternative?
       
    26. No, pressure pots are not necessary. But, you will have a hard time getting a bubble free cast without it. There are methods to help, and it does depend on the resin you are using a bit. I don't remember all the methods though. I know for molding, some people brush a thin layer of silicone over their model first then pour the rest before it completely cures, and I think I read some people do that for casting too. It seems difficult for a small mold though. It also helps to pour from high up so there is just a thin stream of resin going into the mold. Also, avoid over stirring and use something plastic instead of a something like a wooden paint stirrer. If you are just making dolls for yourself it shouldn't be a big deal. But a pressure pot will save you a lot of hassle if you plan on making a bunch.
       
    27. Thank you, firefly! That's good to know!
       
    28. Yeah firefly I was losing hope too, I'm looking for someone who can cast my Dolls in resin, but I'm not planing in a big quantity. So far I haven't find anyone :( so I was concerning about learning to cast myself, I'll see.
       
    29. If you're planning on doing a small number by hand you can have the luxury of taking less time to cast so like firefly said - if you pre-coat your original parts by brushing the silicone on then pouring you will have a bubble free layer to pick-up all the finer details without worring about bubles interfering with your mould. As for pouring the resin in - the key to buble free resin without a pressure pot is having one with a longer pot-life (takes longer to cure) so you can tap/vibrate bubles out once its mixed and pour it in your moulds without rushing and churning bubbles back into it in the process... The only thing to watch for is small undercuts like in ears - but if your moulds are planned properly you can also avoid pockets of air by correctly placing vents and flash-flues to get bubble free casts without a pressure pot :)

      Edited to add: Pinkysil is a great silicone for bubble free moulds - its not cheap but its the easiest silicone I have ever used to work with and its cure time is about 15 minutes for large pours and Its not a slow curing one like suggested by Twigling below but it is a very low viscosity kind of like hot treacle in consistensy and so far each of my unpressurized moulds have been perfect from it...
       
      #29 whitewings, Jun 1, 2010
      Last edited by a moderator: Jun 1, 2010
    30. Also using a lower viscosity silicone (that sets slowly) helps the bubbles to escape upwards before the material thickens and hardens.
       
    31. you guys sure do take the long way to do these dolls i dont need a pressure pot for my sil or rez lol
       
    32. really? have you casted anything in resin? without a pressure pot
      the amount of air bubbles you get when casting is not even cool :sweat
       
    33. We succeed in doing mold without bubbles in the silicon or the resin cast... ONE TIME
      No idea why this one work better than the others, anyway...

      So we bought a pressure pot, I'm just trying it right now ^^ in molds that had some bubbles trouble, but just so as to see if the casts are better ^^

      So yes, it is possible to get bubble-free molds and casts, but I think you'll need a lot of experiment to do them perfectly (and it depends of what kind of materials you're using... Some silicon/resin are doing a lot more bubbles than others...)
       

    34. i had a lot of problems with my resin getting bubbles this past year. Most of it was caused by the humidity in the air. In Kansas I had central air, which dries out the air... then I moved to LA which is extremely dry naturally. Here in NorCal it's damp and there's no central air... so i was having a humidity of about 50% on average.

      I found that if you cast at 30% humidity or less with fresh resin that hasn't absorbed moisture through the air you run a much lower chance of getting the tiny champagne bubble effect. You won't get perfect casts, but they aren't unusable. I went through about two gallons worth of imperfect resin casts before i was broken down enough that i was ready to get a pressure pot.

      Poor Twigling had to listen to me and help me through the baby steps of getting an air compressor and pressure pot this past month. I'm still nervous but it's so nice not to be wasting so much time or resin!
       
    35. How about a line-dryer for your air-compressor?
      This is also known as a de-humidifier, and is used commonly with airbrush.
      It would be connected to the line, between the air-compressor and the pressure pot.
      So far, I have not seen anyone mention this gizmo for a pressure pot?

      :)
       
    36. i haven't had any problems with the casts now that i'm using the pressure pot. The bubbly casts were from before i used one.
      :3
       
    37. I myself would love to get a pressure pot, but they're all so expensive! Since I'm not really planning on selling any dolls right now I don't think I'll get one, but it's still really nice to see these tutorials, since I may get one in the future.
       
    38. Question about the compressor. Twigling you said yours is 15 cubic feet per minute and it is a bit overkill, if I remember.
      So for exemple this http://www.spraydirect.co.uk/acatalog/abac_redline_230_24_portable_economy_compressor.html is
      Capacity: 230 lt/min / 8Cfm
      Pressure: 8 Bar / 116psi

      116psi, if I understand how it works, is higher than the 80psi I need to use for the pressure pot for resin, so it is ok to get this one ? It won't be too weak or something ?
       
    39. Yes, you might set the one you have linked to at 80-90 psi, and there should be a regulator on your pressure pot as well. You don't need to run the compressor at max. You only need about 60 psi for casting resin, 80 for silicone perhaps. So you'd have some room to move there.
       
    40. That is the less powerful one on the site I think, and it is already too powerful xD I am glad I don't have to move a nuclear plant kind of machine to my apartment thought, thanks for the clarification!
       
    41. One like that is good all round for other stuff too, like running a sandblaster or spraypainting, or inflating tyres etc. Probably better to have a decent size one as a smaller one will wear out faster from being run at capacity constantly. I wouldn't want one much smaller than what I have now that I also run a 20 litre pot alongside my 10L.
       
    42. "Like that" you mean like yours or like my link ? Or should I get a more powerful one ? (incoming headache because have to make a decision ;_; )
       
    43. Like the link. I don't think you need it more powerful, and if that's the smallest they have might be best to go with it unless you want to look elsewhere.
       
    44. Oh right, I wasn't sure. I think I'll stick to this website because I haven't found any other satisfying provider in the UK so far.
      Next noobish question, I was planning to get the Binks 10 litres pressure pot but what is the difference between the stainless steel and zinc plated ones, besides the tremendous price difference ? Also would the no agitator ones fit for resin/silicon casting? Because it seems to be manufactured for paint spraying.
      Love and thanks.
       
    45. *looks at Twigling with demanding kitty eyes* Meow... ? XD
       
    46. Some pots for paint spraying have a tube inside - my 10 gallon tank was a paint-pot straight off the shelf from a auto supply store - I used a hack-saw and cut off the tube and its perfect so either with or without doesn't really matter, as for an agitator - just check to see if its removable and if you would damage the integrity of the seal by removing it.

      As for the difference between stainless steel and zinc plated - this wont affect your ability to cast in it. Stainless Steel Vs Zinc plated is only an issue from a painters perspective - some paints are more corrosive than others depending on their composition so are better suited to a stronger tank like stainless steel. So long as you have a tank rated above the maximum PSI you intend to cast too it wont matter what its manufactured from.
       
    47. Thanks a bunch whitewings!

      Humidity's a <3less b*tch => In the same area, I once thought oxygen/air was cool, like... to be able to breathe, then I started casting resin :p
       
    48. No worries :) Its so bad here at the moment!! I ended up buying a line-dryer for my pressure pot because in Summer it averages 50% humidity most days and the wet season is definitely in full swing so I dont get a break from it LOL
       
    49. http://www.abac-support.co.uk/individualmodels/cleanAir/30_7_S.htm about this compressor: for a 10ltr pressure pot filled at 80psi, isn't 3cfm not enough?
      How do I know how long it will take to fill the pot depending on its size and the psi I require (once the compressor tank is filled and I open the tap)?
      I can't find a mathematical formula to know and I feel so clueless.


      Edit : I managed to get the information I needed. Cheers =)
       
      #49 La vie en rose, Feb 29, 2012
      Last edited by a moderator: Mar 1, 2012
    50. I was wondering and I can't seam to find the answer . I have done some casting with out a vacuum and of course I get the air bubbles of doom . But resin cures pretty fast .So if its starting to cure as I'm putting the mold in to the pot will it still get rid of the bubbles ?
       
    51. You can store resin in a mid-temp fridge (like a mini fridge not set to super cool -- NOT ONE YOU KEEP FOOD IN) if you're in a warmer climate to help give you a longer work time, had to do this at my last job as the building didn't have AC and trying to cast things in the summer could be quite the adventure.

      There are also a variety of resins to choose from now, and you can get quite a few that give you more time to work with before they start to cure.

      If you can't get a pressure pot just yet, have a palm sander or something of the like handy to help vibrate bubbles out of your casting. Just clamp it to a table and switch it on and shake the molds while the resin is in. We'd also do this when pouring the silicone for molds even after doing a degassing to get rid of extra bubbles.
       
    52. Thanks so much for all the info. Sorry if this is considered necro-ing, but I couldn't find a more recent post.
      Humidity in my country (Netherlands) is normally so high that I've reached the conclusion that it will probably be impossible for me to make completely bubble-free resin dolls without a pressure pot... At least not in colour. I tried several brands of both resin and colouring, and while I have found two resins that I can cast acceptable pieces with with without any machinery (Axson F18 and Alumilite casting resin), both start to get bubbles when pigment is added. I've got another resin lines up I want to try, but I'm not confident the same problem won't occur again.

      (in case you wonder: I use the talc-powder trick, along with several things like slow stirring, pouring at an angle, vibrating the mould while curing etc)

      One question though, since several of you guys have mentioned using compressors intended for the car-painting industry... Can ANY pressure pot be attached to ANY compressor (taking the max PSI in consideration of course)? I intend to give the doll that's causing me trouble two colours (she's a fox, so red tan skin and white)... And was thinking that if I can't manage to cast a dark, reddish tan skin myself, but clear resin versions (without any colour added) are turning out fine, it might be a solution to air-brush most of the parts. Makes more sense to paint red-brown onto something white than the other way around, after all, even if it might rub off the joints over time (I could perhaps leave those clear but I'm afraid it would look weird).
      Can an airbrush be attached to the same kind of compressor as a pressure pot, or is there too big a difference in PSI or something?
      I never worked with either, so sorry if I sound like a complete n00b. ^^'
       
      #52 Puppit, Aug 18, 2014
      Last edited by a moderator: Aug 18, 2014
    53. I'm not too sure, but I do know that I would never be able to use the air compressor I used for my pressure pot to airbrush with or vice versa. I have an Iwata Smart Jet for airbrushing. It wouldn't be able to fill the pressure pot because it only goes to 35psi. My other compressor is a big one I stole from my dad (I think it is this.. http://www.beletti.com/ram/aircompressor.jpg). I am not sure how you'd limit it to 35PSI, but even if you could, it is super loud! But, I don't really know what I am talking about, I just know what works for me, so maybe it is possible. Sorry, that isn't very helpful. I don't think Twigling has been around here for a while but I'm sure she'd know.
       
    54. Thanks, I'll see if I can message her if no other replies follow up soon.
       
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