Knitting Knitting from the DoA archives: Laura Gilkey's SD dress with leaf lace hem

Long, long ago, there were some wonderful patterns posted to the original DoA Yahoogroup, and then imported over to this forum when it got started. As DoA grew and servers changed, those patterns became harder and harder to find. My dear friend SillyDog and I made a project of saving the pattern archive, with the idea of someday adding it to the Wiki or some other part of the forum.

As we have time, we'll post those patterns so everyone can use them! Here's the sixth one, contributed by the marvelous Laura Gilkey (halfesperl), exactly as she wrote it and with her original pictures included. If you use this pattern, please give Laura Gilkey the credit for it!


Dress with Leaf Lace Hem for Standard SD or SD13
by Laura Gilkey

Permission is granted for members of Den of Angels to make by any means or commission as many garments from this pattern as they wish for their own enjoyment. Permission is also granted for members to sell as many garments from this pattern as they wish, provided that they themselves make by hand those garments intended for sale.

Fingering weight yarn on #2 US (2.75mm) needles
Gauge: 7 sts x 9 rows = 1 inch
You will also need:
4 small stitch holders
Yarn needle for sewing

Knitting:

Dress Front:
Cast on 71.
Row 1-6: K across (Garter Stitch).
Row 7: S1, k1, psso, (k5, yo, k1, yo, k5, k2tog), *k1, pass prev st over, rep parentheses, rep from * across.
Row 8 (and all even numbered rows except noted): P across.
Row 9: S1, k1, psso, (k4, yo, k3, yo, k4, k2tog), *k1, pass prev st over, rep parentheses, rep from * across.
Row 11: S1, k1, psso, (k3, yo, k5, yo, k3, k2tog), *k1, pass prev st over, rep parentheses, rep from * across.
Row 13: S1, k1, psso, (k2, yo, k7, yo, k2, k2tog), *k1, pass prev st over, rep parentheses, rep from * across.
Row 15: S1, k1, psso, (k1, yo, k9, yo, k1, k2tog), *k1, pass prev st over, rep parentheses, rep from * across.
Row 17: S1, k1, psso, (yo, k11, yo, k2tog), *k1, pass prev st over, rep parentheses, rep from * across.
Row 19: *K1, yo, k5, k2tog, k1, pass prev st over, k5, yo, rep from * across, end k1.
Row 21: *K2, yo, k4, k2tog, k1, pass prev st over, k4, yo, k1, rep from * across, end k1.
Row 23: *K3, yo, k3, k2tog, k1, pass prev st over, k3, yo, k2, rep from * across, end k1.
Row 25: *K4, yo, k2, k2tog, k1, pass prev st over, k2, yo, k3, rep from * across, end k1.
Row 27: *K5, yo, k1, k2tog, k1, pass prev st over, k1, yo, k4, rep from * across, end k1.
Row 29: *K6, yo, k2tog, k1, pass prev st over, yo, k5, rep from * across, end k1.
Rows 30-50: Even numbered rows P across; odd numbered rows repeat row 29.
Rows 51-94: K across odd numbered rows, p across even numbered rows (Stockinette Stitch).
Row 95: S1, k1, psso 14 times, k15, k2tog 14 times. (43 sts)
Row 96: P across.
Row 97: K1, (k2tog, yo) across until 2 sts remain, k2.
Row 98-109: K across odd numbered rows, p across even numbered rows (Stockinette Stitch).
Row 110: Cast off 2, p across. (41 sts)
Row 111: Cast off 2, k across. (39 sts)
Row 112: Cast off 1, p across. (38 sts)
Row 113: Cast off 1, k across. (37 sts)
Rows 114-115: Repeat rows 112-113. (35 sts)
Rows 116-118: K across odd numbered rows, p across even numbered rows (Stockinette Stitch).
Row 119A: K17, slip remaining sts to holder. (17 sts)
Row 120A: Cast off 7 in purl, p across. (10 sts)
Row 121A-128A: K across odd numbered rows, p across even numbered rows (Stockinette Stitch).
Slip to holder.
Pick up sts left off at Row 119A. (18 sts)
Row 119B: Cast off 8 in knit, k across. (10 sts)
Row 120B-128B: K across odd numbered rows, p across even numbered rows (Stockinette Stitch).
Slip to holder.

Dress Back:
Cast on 71.
Work rows 1-118 as for Dress Front. (35 sts)
Row 119: K across.
Row 120: P across.
Row 121A: K17, slip remaining sts to holder. (17 sts)
Row 122A: Cast off 3 in purl, p across. (14 sts)
Row 123A (and all odd numbered rows unless noted): K across.
Row 124A: Cast off 2 in purl, p across. (12 sts)
Row 126A: Cast off 1 in purl, p across. (11 sts)
Row 128A: Repeat row 126A. (10 sts)
Slip to holder.
Pick up sts left off at row 121A. (18 sts)
Row 121B: Cast off 4 in knit, k across. (14 sts)
Row 122B (and all even numbered rows unless noted): P across.
Row 123B: Cast off 2 in knit, k across. (12 sts)
Row 125B: Cast off 1 in knit, k across. (11 sts)
Row 127B: Repeat row 125B. (10 sts)
Row 128B: P across.
Slip to holder.


(continued in the next post!)

 

Finishing:
"Duplicate stitch" shoulders together and sew side seams. Add crochet trim at neck and armholes as follows:
Armholes: Work 1 row of sc into knit fabric around armhole, incorporating decreases at the bottom of the armhole for shaping; join. For a plain finish, you can tie off now, or for ruffles, continue in rounds as follows. In the second round, (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around. In the third round, (sc, ch3, sc) in each st around.
Neckline: Work 1 row of sc into knit fabric around the neckline, using decreases to avoid puckers at the corners of the square neckline in front.
I recommend at least one row of crochet in these places to give a nice edge-finish, and also to firm up the neck and armhole openings so they don't curl.
Weave in ends.
Weave a ribbon, cord, or other belt through the eyelets at the waist.

And enjoy! Simply pull the dress on over your doll's head, then tie the belt snug around her waist.


Options:

Here are some simple changes (currently untested) that will produce a somewhat fuller skirt---the front and back will each have six repeats of the leaf motif, where as written above they have five.
For both front and back, cast on 85 to start and substitute the following for row 95:
Row 95: S1, k1, psso 21 times, k1, k2tog 21 times. (43 sts)

You can also remove repeats to make the skirt narrower if you choose. For each motif removed, subtract 14 from the number of stitches cast on, and subtract 7 each from the numbers of (s1, k1, psso)s and k2togs in row 95. The number of repeats must be at least three (which would make the dress a straight tube), but not more than six.