What a fantastic job you have done. It is amazing how our ideas just makes us do things, and sometimes over and over again. @Elanie What a lovely sweater!
@JennyM Thank you! Here's a recent "knitting vacation" from my more intense projects: My SD-sized Peak's Woods Yulia is modeling a scarf made of Malabrigo's lace weight Silkpaca, made of baby alpaca and silk. The colorway is 732 Parade; the fringe is 667 Storm. I used U.S. #0 needles with a gauge of 10 stitches/inch and about 14 rows/inch in stockinette stitch. I used bamboo needles because the yarn is a little slippery (but a pleasure to touch!). The pattern is a knit 2, purl 2 rib. The red yarn bobbin is from Etsy. I love variegated yarn but often find the color changes aren't right for doll scale. I LOVE this speckly yarn and hope to make more BJD items with it soon! Knit on, my friends!
Hello, I come here with a question. So I knitted a cotton sweater for my doll and while blocking I noticed it's not colorfast. Is there a way to make it a bit more safe to wear? The yarn is not machine-washable.
Sorry to hear about your sweater. No, there is no reliable home method to make any yarn (or fabric) colorfast. Your best bet, if you want to use the sweater, is to put a stain-blocking body stocking on your BJD. I'd also check the BJD once a month while it's wearing the sweater for staining and to verify that the body stocking is doing its job. I hope your next project goes better!
You could look on the internet for a vinegar or salt soak to set the colour. I still wouldn't leave it on the doll for too long though.
Here is a tiny sweater/hat set for a Minifee. I got the idea for the pattern on the front from a sweater on sale on Etsy, except is was knitted top down and I made it bottom up, as I didn't want to make a raglan sweater. I think it turned out quite nice !
Lovely! You can knit a set in shoulder sweater top down, it's just a but more fiddly than knitting a raglan. It's also a bit harder to block, and it would be a shame to not show that beautiful lace panel to its best advantage (my lace never looks like proper lace until it's blocked, more like some vaguely knitted tangled yarn wad ) Cheers for good work!
Thank you ! Yes, I think I could figure out a set in shoulder from top down, but I thought it wasn't worth the hassle, I would have to knit the two sides separately then join them. Anyway, I think the lace part looks better bottom up than top down, so everything is fine. Lace looks awful before blocking when you knit very thin yarn with big needles, and a lot of yarn overs, but here I used very thin needles as well, and there aren't that much yarn overs. The final sweater looks better after blocking, but this lace looks quite fine even before blocking.
@Elanie So pretty! I love how the sleeves repeat the design from the center front and the little matching hat is a very nice bonus too. Your doll will look lovely in it.
If the picture doesn’t work I made my boy a little sweater! I think he looks cute, and definitely the best sweater I’ve made so far
Knitted a bodywarmer for Rick (Xaga Doll Blue Obsedian) to go with the pants and the shoes I made for him earlier.
Oh I’m so happy to find this thread! I don’t even have a bjd yet but I want to start knitting now lol. I made this so far Oh wait how do I add photos? Hope that worked. Nope it didn’t on the preview for me so here’s a link 15F67818-7433-4A19-8F05-D0248F9BA8B1 I’m looking for a v-neck sweater or cardigan for a 30cm ish doll size. I don’t have any experience resizing patterns or converting them and I mostly knit socks for adults so I don’t really know about when to increase and decrease etc so I need a pattern to follow to begin with I think.
Thank you! I’ve got some much yarn left over from socks that it’s nice to have something else to make with it.
That's so cute ! If it's self striping yarn, I am amazed at how you made the sleeves match. I have a lot of socks leftover yarn, but am always afraid it would look too colorful for doll clothes, but you just proved me wrong.
It is self striping and I’m kind of impressed at the sleeves too seeing as I often can’t get my socks to match I think sock yarn is ideal for doll size clothes as the patterns look very different on a small scale. The body looks similar to the socks as it’s a similar stitch count but the sleeves are different. I’ll experiment and make a few to see how they look. I love how quickly they knit up. I’d like to knit something like this as my doll will be based on San from Ateez but I have no idea how to do the ragged edges and the distressed look. Anyone know of any good tutorials to replicate this look?
I don't know of any tutorials but I would definitely start by buying knit fabric and experimenting with making holes and runs. (FYI: some commercial knit fabrics don't run, so be sure to get the right kind.) Starting with purchased knit fabric will get you started a lot faster and will allow you to experiment without investing a lot of time. You might or might not decide to hand-knit your final version. This is a really cute look and I hope you'll share your results here!
Thank you. I wouldn’t have thought of buying any fabric to practice with so that will save me some time. I know I can drop stitches to make runs but no idea how to stop them running all the way down unless I secure them somehow maybe. Guess I’ll experiment
I remember seeing a pattern a few years back for a "pre-distressed" sweater with holes and runs in it. I can't seem to find it on Ravelry with a quick search,though it is probably there just not conveniently tagged. Anyway, the basic idea of now to make a planned run in knitting is to make a yarn over (or M1 if you want a tighter bottom) where you want one end of the run to be and then, after knitting however many rows you want the run to be, you just drop the stitch that is above the yarn over and let it run down. For wider runs you could probably start with a yarn over and then on the next row (or more rows up really) bracket the yarn over column with a yarn over and decrease pair. So before the previous yarn over column you do a decrease and yarn over, then knit the previous yarn over column(s), then yarn over and decrease. If you lean the decreases in toward the planned run they will look less planned. Now for the inspiration sweater the holes are filled with Swiss darning/duplicate stitch. What I would do to replicate that in new knitting is to do intarsia with very fine yarn/thread and the go back after I finished knitting to add some rough ends and loops with the thicker yarn using embroidery. Toss in some runs and random yarn overs, and maybe do some rough "seams" with embroidery and tada! Instant beat up sweater.
Oooohhhhh that’s how they do it. I thought it was just a double layer of knitting. Thank you so much. That’s so smart for the runs and using a YO. I will try that out. I’m not sure what you mean by the wider ones though. I can’t visualise so I’ll try doing it and seeing what happens. I’ll have plenty of time to practice anyway before he gets here.
I just finished this little top. I’m so ridiculously pleased with this I had to share it here. I’ve never done any embroidery or beadwork on clothes before. Not sure what size it is exactly lol. Possibly 1/6? This one shows the actual colour better Close up of embroidery
Here's a little chart I made for the wider run idea: . The pinkish stitches are the ones that are dropped and are basically "no stitch" in the chart once you drop them. you could put as many rows as you want between the bottom-most YO and the row where you drop the stitches. You can put more rows between the first YO and the next YO row to make the run pointier. While you could make the run wider by adding more decrease/YO pairs to the outside edges (as long as the YOs are right next to the columns made by the previous YOs), the runs will widen out a lot so you probably don't want more than three. For the increases at the top that end the wider run I used lifted leg increases (KLL, KRL) since they resemble the decreases at the bottom; make the increase on the leg facing the run. On that row you would KLL, drop, k1, drop, KRL; the center stitch is dropped later. I have not swatched this, so those increases might get too sloppy for your taste since they do share yarn with the dropped stitches. In that case a YO or M1 spaced further away from the run should be fairly invisible and balance the decreases made at the beginning. The nice thing about "distressed" knitting is that as long as the stitch counts are roughly even on average they work out so you could balance, say, the SSK at the start of the run with a random YO on somewhere on any row. Wonky knitting is what you are aiming for anyway.
This is awesome. Thank you so much!! I’m going to try this tomorrow and see how it goes. ( also I’ve never worked from charts so that will be fun ). Thank you for taking the time to write it all out for me. I really appreciate it.
Your cardigan looks great, Blubell! Do you recall the name and brand of the yarn? I recently saw a drop stitch pattern for Blythe on Etsy. I'll try to find it.
What’s the stretchiest bind off that exists? I made a jumper but the neckline is too tight even with a stretchy bind off so I need a stretchier one. This is what I made Ravelry: Blubell0422's Jumper for doll ( no photo here as it’s on a Barbie ) and I had to really pull hard to get it over her head.
No I didn’t leave an opening at the back as I want it to be as realistic as possible. I did find one bind off that might work so I’ll try that next time.
If you want a stretchy neckline so it will go over the head. It is better to take the head off to put the sweater on a BJD. It's usually ease to do.
Oh really? I don’t have my bjd yet and barbies’ heads don’t come off that easily - at least the one my daughter has seems to have a very stiff head
or just take the head off. I take off most of my dolls' heads when changing them in or out of pullover garments - I hate back openings in their clothing, limits the angles I can photograph them from, but maybe that's just a me thing
I don’t have my bjd yet so have no idea about taking heads off lol. I don’t like back openings either. I want to try and make realistic clothes so will be experimenting because the rest of the jumper is perfect. It’s just that neckband.
I like Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off for things that really need to stretch. It does sometimes look a little bulky at doll scale, particularly if you are using a yarn that is a bit chunky for a doll. Like others that are fond of realism, I behead my dolls to dress them in pullovers. Most dolls are simple to remove heads from, you take off the headcap and turn the S-hook to let it drop out of the head. The other common head style uses face plates, which lets you just take off the face, which is what is in danger of damage with pulling on clothing, leaving the back of the head in place. I have one doll with a faceplate and there are still a few close necked things that I have to take the the whole head off to dress her in, but it does cut down on the need to fully behead her.
I don't have my dolls yet, but I only made sweaters with back openings. That's not really pretty , but I hate very large necklines, and would be scared to take my doll's head of. I should consider it though, the sweaters would be much nicer looking without the buttons, even if they are really tiny.
I actually found that one earlier and used it on a jumper and although it does look bulky it’s still ok because I used thicker yarn so it looks like a chunky sweater. 81F5A9F0-DE59-41D9-86CE-C5DF6450BE17 by Katarzyna Antosiewicz, on Flickr it stretches really nicely around the neckline.
Finally this girl got a new sweater for spring. Cotton and fantasy yarn - knitting needles 1.5 mm (000). knitted a sweater for spring MSD Resinsoul Ya
I knit an SD-size (14" by 24") ripple afghan that took over 31 hours to make! I hope my BJDs appreciate the effort!
So much less expensive to make and a much more portable project than a human sized one though, right? (fingering weight yarn on 0 needles?) It's gorgeous! Almost makes me want to drop everything and knit an afghan for my crew
Thank you so much, @nancy_schroeder_ca , @Blubell , @El BJD , and @Girrl! Y'all made my day!! I used 3 20/2 rayon threads held together on U.S. #2 needles - slippery stuff! - but the rayon gave it the drape I was wanting. One friend said she couldn't tell from the photo if it was BJD-size or human-size! Success!
It took a year - off and on - and 8 tries but this knit pants pattern for 3.25 inch RealPuki is done! Lessons learned: take better notes and don't be such a perfectionist! The pattern takes U.S. #00 000 needles and 1 ply of embroidery floss. The left leg on the left pair was made with DMC variegated floss and the right pair with Valdani variegated floss. The pattern is in the Workshop under Knitting, of course. Whew! Glad this is done!