Knitting Knit - Top Down Raglan Cardigan for Mini

Okay, I'm going to attempt to post a pattern here for a top down raglan cardigan. Here we go...

Top Down Raglan Cardigan​

(MSD/Ellowyne size)​

This is a great basic top down pattern. It can easily be adapted by making a cropped version, adding cables, making short or long sleeves etc. You can even place the opening in the back for a “pullover” look.

Yarn: fingering weight such as Knitpicks Palette
Needle size: 2 (2 ¾ mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 8 stitches/1”
10 rows/1”

Cast on 40 stitches with #2 needles
Work 3 rows of 1x1 rib (K1, P1)
If desired, work a buttonhole on row 3 of rib as follows: work to last 3 stitches: yo, k2tog., P1. Sometimes I work buttonholes on my knits and sometimes I prefer to sew on button over snap closures after the garment is complete. If you want to work buttonholes work them on the following rows: 3, 11, 19, 27, and 35

From this point on work the first and last 2 stitches of every row in garter stitch (knit these stitches on both the knit and purl rows)

Row 1: Increase 22 stitches evenly across 36 stitches:
Knit 2, (kfb, k1) x7, kfb x7, (kfb, k1) x8, end with k1 (62 stitches)
Row 2: Purl across and mark the following stitches by placing stitch markers on each
side of these designated stitches (only if you are going to work yarn over/eyelet
increases) : # 13, 23, 41, and 51

If you want to work kfb increases: k12, PM, k10, PM, k18, PM, k10, PM, k12

Row 3: Increase row: knit across and work an increase before and after each marked stitch. I worked yarn over increases, but beginning knitters may want to work a kfb increase instead to avoid “migrating” stitch markers.
To work yarn over/eyelet increases: *Work to marker, yo, slip marker, knit marked stitch, slip marker, yo* repeat
To work kfb increases: *work to one stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb* repeat
Row 4: k2, purl across, ending with k2
Row 5: repeat row 3 (78 stitches)

Rows 6, 8, 10, and 12: repeat row 4

Row 7: repeat row 3 (86 stitches)
Row 9: repeat row 3 (94 stitches)
Row 11: repeat row 3 (102 stitches)

 

Row 13: Dividing row
Work 17 stitches (left front) , place next 20 stitches (for left sleeve) on waste
yarn or holder, place marker, work 28 stitche (back), place next 20 stitches (for
right sleeve) on waste yarn or holder, place marker, work 17 stitches (right
front) (62 body stitches)
Row 14: k2, purl across, k2

Row 15: Decrease row for waist shaping: (Note: this pattern was fitted for Ellowyne so depending on the particular doll you are knitting for you may need to adjust your waist
decreases. At this point you will be able to try the sweater on your doll when needed to see where your shaping needs to be worked
*Work to 2 stitches before marker, ssk, slip marker k2tog.*, repeat (58 stitches)
Even rows: repeat row 14
Row 17: repeat row 15 (54 stitches)
Row 19: repeat row 15 (50 stitches)
Row 21: repeat row 15 (46 stitches)
Rows 22-26: work even in stockinette stitch
Row 27: Increase row: *Work to 1 stitch before marker, M1L, slip marker, M1R* repeat
(50 stitches)
Row 29: repeat row 27 (54 stitches)
Row 31: repeat row 27 (58 stitches)
Row 33: repeat row 27 (62 stitches)

Work 4 rows of 1x1 rib
Bind off in pattern

Sleeves (knit in the round on dpn’s)
Left Sleeve:
Divide your 20 sleeve stitches onto 3 dpn’s
Row 1: With RS facing attach yarn and knit around placing marker at end of round, join to work in the round and knit a total of 22 rows (or to desired length)

Work 3 rows of 1x1 rib and bind off in pattern. Repeat for right sleeve.

If you prefer to work your sleeves flat on straight needles:
Attach yarn with RS facing, k1, kfb, knit across ending with kfb, k1 (22 sleeve stitches)
Work a total of 22 rows in stockinette stitch (or to desired length)
Work 3 rows of 1x 1 rib
Bind off in pattern, sew underarm seam

Close gap at underarm, weave in ends, block, and sew on buttons/snaps

© 2009 Cindy Lewis