Knitting Knit Sweater - Cables in Chamonix for 60cm

Reposting this here, so it's easier to find!
Made for DoT Shall, a 60cm girl. ^_^



This pattern is taken from The Yarn Girls' Guide to Knitting Beyond the Basics and is called Cables in Chamonix. I used a fingering weight yarn (70% peruvian merino / 30% silk) on US size 1 needles at the smallest size given.

The original guage is as follows:
3.5sts = 1 inch; 14 sts = 4 in (in stockinette)

My guage was 11.5 st = 1 inch

Stiches: c6b = place 3 sts on cbl needle, hold them to back of work. Knit 3 from left needle, knit 3 from cbl needle.

BACK
Cast on 64 (72,80) sts
Row 1: k9 (13, 11); *p2, k6, p2, k2* 3(3,4) times; end p2, k6, p2, k9(13, 11)
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: p9(13,11); *k2, p6, k2, p2* 3(3,4) times; end k2, p6, k2, p9(13,11)
Row 3: k9(13,11); *P2, c6b, p2, k2* 3(3,4) times; end p2, c6b, p2, k9(13,11)
Rows 5, 7, 9: As row 1

Rep 10-row patt until peices measures 4.5" (Originally 13.5" (14.5", 16")) from cast-on edge, ending with WS row.
SHAPE ARMHOLES: BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then 2 sts at beg of following two rows. Dec 1 st at either end of every other row 2 times.
Cont in patt until peice measures 7 2/3" (Originally 21.5" (23", 25")) from cast-on edge, ending with WS row.
Bind off loosely in patt.

FRONT
Work as BACK until peice measures 4.5" (Originally 13.5" (14.5", 16")) from cast-on edge, ending with WS row.
SHAPE ARMHOLES: BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then 2 sts at beg of following two rows. Dec 1 st at either end of every other row 2 times.
Cont in patt until peice measures 6 1/3" (Originally 19" (20.5", 22.5")) from cast on edge, ending with WS row.
SHAPE CREW NECK: BO center 6 sts and work each side of neck separately.
At the beg of each neck edge, every other row, BO 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1st 1(2,3) time. Cont working on remaining 12(14,16) sts with no further decreasing until peice measures 7 2/3" (Originally 21.5" (23", 25")) in from cast-on edge.
Bind off all st loosely in patt.

SLEEVES
Cast on 32(36,40) sts.
Row 1: k7 (9,11), p2 k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, k7 (9,11)
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: p7 (9,11), k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2, p7(9,11)
Row 3: k7(9,11), p2, k2, p2, c6b, p2, k2, p2, k7(9, 11)
Row 5, 7, 9: As row 1.

Repeat this 10-row patt, and AT THE SAME TIME, inc 1 st at each edge every 7th row 8 (8,9) times until you have 48 (52,58.) sts. (NOTE: Increase leaving 2 edge sts on either side. This means k2, kf&b, knit as pattern until you have 3 sts remaining, kf&b, k2. This will leave you a clean edge for seaming.) As you increase, the number of k and p at beginning and end of rows will increase.
(NOTE: If you're using a shorter sleeve length, you may not get all 8 increases. Do not worry about this. Just adjust your final binding off in the shaping so that you end up with 6 sts.)

When sleeve measures desired length (Originally 17" (18", 19.5"), but I used 6.5" because I like longer sleeves.) from cast-on edge, end with WS row.
SHAPE CAP: BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. BO 2 sts at beg of following 2 rows. Dec 1 st at eeither edge every other row 2 (3,4) times. BO 2 sts at beg of next 14 (14,16) rows until 6 sts remain.
BO all sts loosely in patt.

Steam block all peices flat and seam together. Pick up 64 (or the closest multiple of 4) sts around the neck and work in k2, p2 ribbing until neck reaches desired length. (I used 8cm for the neck.) Bind off loosely in patt.

At this time, you may wish to carefully wet-block the sweater on your doll. It helps to blot out as much excess water as you can before putting it on them, and keep them in a kneeling position while it's drying.