Maintenance How to remove a face-up: materials and techniques

I heared a lot of good things about windsor and newton brush cleaner, only problem is I can't seem to get it in germany ._.
don't know if other brush cleaners would work the same...

 

What's safe to use on tan skin dolls for removing a face up?

 

I can't find W&N brush cleaner, but I found a store with W&N vanish remover, will that work as well???

 

Don't know. That might be more harsh. My bottle of W&N says:

"Brush cleaner & Restorer for dried acrylic and oil colors"

Nontoxic, biodegradable, water soluble, non-flammable, non-abrasive, low vapor. Doesn't say the ingredients, but does say not recommended for painted or varnished surface, product may remove lacquer.

I'm thinking the varnish remover might be a stronger product. I'd suggest taking a look at what brands of art supplies you have in Thailand. Someone else must also make brush cleaner. W&N, although it sounds British, is made in the US (in New Jersey!), although the labels are also given in French as well as English. But there are several other good brands out there. If you have an art supplies store, ask them what you can use for cleaning or soaking brushes in, and then check the label for things like the "non-abrasive", etc., and just make sure it doesn't contain any acetone. W&N when you use it, is a slightly thickened but clear liquid and has an oily sort of feel.

 

I can't find W&N brush cleaner in the craft stores near my house also. All I can find is delta creative brush cleaner (stencil magic), which is under the stencil section. There is no product information on the package. Will it work also?

 

I went and asked in 3 major chemists for rubbing alcohol - and they all looked at me like I'm off my trolley T__T

It must be called something different in the UK

All the non-acetone removers I could find were green XD

 

8V Ah. That reminds me. For all you guys doing face ups and removing them and such, have you bought a proper respirator? My skin is very sensitive already, but especially if you're going to be using ANY harsh chemical substances, safety first guys. I'm sure that a good respirator would have prevented Aku's health problems.

Fumes are not fun ;u;.

 

Try "isopropyl alcohol". That's actually the correct name in the US too. Usually comes in two percentages of purity, 70% and about 91%. Alcohol wipe pads are usually the 70%, and the 91% comes in a bottle and you usually have to ask for it.

 

One pharmacist told me he does models
and asked me what my doll is made out of - so I told him resin.

He told me to go to the garage and buy break fluid.
I was just like

 

I had the same problem when I went in my local pharmacies too >_<;
I even said Isopropyl too!

BUT:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250443996368&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
5L of 99.9%
I paid about 6£ inc postage for 250mls last year !!

 

Brake fluid will strip paint off of metal, but I certainly wouldn't want it anywhere near my dolls!

 

Ditto to the Isopropyl alcohol problem, I also asked in 2 chemists today and got told they don't carry it

Also not having much luck finding W&N brush cleaner at all now....I have looked on more art supply stores online (as we only have one art store where I live and they don't have it...what a surprise!) than I care to count and all I could find on any UK suppliers was W&N artgel brush and hand cleaner stuff which looks rather orange from the photos. Has W&N brush cleaner as once described perhaps been discontinued over here or has it been reformulated as this gel stuff??
I did buy a different brand of brush cleaner which is hard stuff you add water to that works but takes a lot of effort and I'd rather not leave it on to soak. I usually lose my patience after a while and wash the head then use the Non-acetone nail polish remover I have even though I'd rather not as it is one with colour dyes that leave a slight pink bloom sometimes

 

I know I'm not in the same part of the world as you, but I found the W&N brush cleaner impossible to find here too I ended up using Methylated Spirits for my dolls instead... and I managed to find 99% Isopropyl alcohol at a local hardware store where they had all the paint thinners, cleaners etc, so maybe those looking for Isopropyl alcohol will find it at hardware stores wherever they are too?

 

thanks for that suggestion hun, hopefully I'll have better luck trying those!

 

Just a note to say I got my rubbing alcohol from eBay I use it along with a magic sponge I got from Robert Dyas homestores

 

Okay. This will be the first time I've ever removed any sort of body paint, and just for the record, I want to double-check I'm doing everything correctly and safely----I don't know what I'd do if I ruined my dear Beryl. ;__;

The Beryl I have has the complete company body, hoof, and horn blushing that Soom did on Beryls last April. The blushing has chipped away on parts of the hooves, so it is my decision to completely remove it and blush them a new way. ^-^ However, I'm just wondering [and this is probably a silly question] but do you think having been painted so heavily and for so long, the resin of the hooves or horns will be...stained? o___o;;; Just curious.

Also, I have for the blushing removal..... 91% isopropyl alcohol, cotton balls, a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser [the box says it has foam and Febreeze "Meadows and Rain" fresh scent, not sure if that makes a difference/is potentially harmful]. When I'm done removing the hoof/leg blush, I then plan to rinse the pieces with water, then let them dry overnight before repainting.

I think it's all good, but as this is my first time doing such a thing, not to mention I'm doing it on a doll I worked very hard to get, I'd like to have a second opinion to feel comfortable. ^^ Thanks~!

 

I think I saw one person who's Beryl had stained... but that was only one... so really you won't know until you take it off. All your supplies are great, except for the eraser with febreeze... I would use one with no scent.

 

Okay, thanks very much! ^-^ I don't have an eraser without a scent on hand at the moment unfortunately, but I'll keep that in mind next time I go shopping----for now, do you think I could attempt removal without the sponge? Just using the alcohol and cotton balls and such?

 

You can definitely go ahead and start. The eraser is best for stubborn stains/cleanup.

 

Thanks! Manged to get one hoof done [it took awhile to get the paint to start coming off, but when the hoof became practically drenched, it just rubbed right off], there are just a few spots of stubborn paint [paint caught in the lines of the fur and such] that I could probably get later with a new eraser. ^-^

 

I just wanted to let oyu know, that's there's no staining, but what CAN happen if you use dark blushing or paints, or whatever, when it's removed? Sometimes the resin underneath is SLIGHTLY lighter than the surrounding area, and that's because of resin yellowing the surrounding area, from things like light and air. It can't penetrate the dark blushing or paint so the unexposed area becomes visible. This usually happens in dolls who are older and have been wearing the same face up or tattoos even, for years. (My Kohya had lighter eyes when I removed his faceup because I always used dark dark paint around his eyes.) However, on the flip side, when you paint over it, it becomes no longer visible again, so I wouldn't worry. It sounds bad, but...it's not, really. Just a part of a doll getting older. ^^. You can always sand it away, if you become too worried, though full body sanding does take work!

G'luck!

 

Thanks! Yeah, as much as I didn't want it too, I expected that would happen. >_< Thankfully my Beryl's resin overall has yellowed very, very little. Her previous owner took very good care of her. ^-^ The part that's still the whitest is the actual cloven hooves which admittedly, gives them a really cool bone color, so I don't mind.

I noticed a couple of odd orange speckles that were under the paint though, and they don't seem to be coming off with the isopropyl alcohol... O___o;;; I'm just going to end up covering them with paint again, but still...

Here's a link to the issue, BTW. ----> http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315180

 

Is regular alcohol ok for this? I was unable to find acetone, and nail remover with no color. Isopropyl alcohol seems to be nonexistent here,so I only have regular alcohol (the one used to clean wounds). Is that ok? or should I just give up on this whole quest?

 

At least in the US, the alcohol sold at the drugstore for cleaning cuts and scratches IS Isopropyl, I think. It may be a lower percentage than would be best for removing faceups, though.

 

I believe mine is 70% alcohol, how high should it be?

Sorry for all the questions

 

70% is usable (that's what's on alcohol pads). Just takes a lot more rubbing with thick faceups, but is good for final cleaning.

There's a 90% alcohol, but you have to keep looking for that. The hardware store idea mentioned above is worth a look, as well as checking out different chains of drugstores. Not everyone carries it.

 

Thank you! Hadn't seen that, will take a look in a hardware store just in case

 

It definitely depends on the store. For example, around here Walgreens only carries 70% (in big bottles) while Walmart carries 90% (in small bottles). Thanks for the hardware store tip! I'd never thought of that.

For what it's worth W&N brush cleaner appears to be impossible to find here too. I've lost count of how many craft stores I've been to. I just went with 90% and a Magic Eraser (or a soft toothbrush if the paint is really stubborn).

 

Alcohol is odd here too - I was in a CVS last night and the 70% was labeled rubbing alcohol, while the 90% was called isopropyl alcohol. They're both the same thing. Maybe you're not supposed to rub HUMANS with the 90%!

I also use alcohol pads sometimes, even if I have to "recharge" them. They're good for wadding up and pushing into those stubborn nooks.

 

Hey, sorry for noob questions and stuff but im hearing all of this stuff, Acetone isn't safe for resin, im like the worst direction follower in the history of the world, the acetone or 70% nail polish remover, which is safer? because i would be devastated if i put this stuff on my girl and her face melts

 

Well, 70% rubbing alcohol and nail polish remover aren't the same, but they're both safer than acetone-just make SURE that if you get nail polish remover, it has NO COLOR and is non-acetone.

Still, Winsor and Newton is even better to use than either of those, and faster in all of my experience. No scrubbing, just a swipe or two.

 

Nah, trust me, there are some industrial-strength faceups put on out there that require considerable effort, even with W&N. I've had to get through some that required alternating attempts between W&N and alcohol (with washes between of course), as well as some muttered "words of power"....

And if using a toothbrush, a SOFT bristled toothbrush, with no "specialty" prongs or embellishments!

 

Baby toothbrushes usually are pretty soft - just gotta make sure you don't accidentally pick up one of those stupid ones with the squishy plastic bristles for teething ^^ I almost did that.

 

I use Isopropyl alcohol all the time, I used to use 70% with little effect on pastel, paint it works wonders on. I have used several different methods, including tying cotton around a needle for those hard to access places and toothbrushes.

I found for me at least, the best way to clean a face is the following-

90% Isopropyl alchol, cuts MSC and removes it better than anything else I've seen. It should be about the only thing you need really, but it depends for me at least.

90% Isopropyl alchol can remove MSC decently, paint amazingly, but still does not cut it for pastel. So I use regular nylon brushes and dip my brush into the alchol and work at it until it loosens up. In the tiny places (Like eye ducts and corners of mouth) I use my trusty sewing needle and a tiny piece of my Magic Eraser dipped in the 90% Isopropyl alchol. Magic Erasers can almost take out the entire thing, but I don't think they do well with removing MSC, thus why using them with alchol works best.

I find 90% Isopropyl alchol at my local K-mart store, in the pharmacy aile. It's usually next to the 70% and peroxide. I don't think K-mart is global, maybe it is, but I'm not sure. If not, I would assume to search a pharmacy and see if they have it next to the regular rubbing alchol (70%).

Maybe this will help. ^____^


Leviticus

 

Seriously, if you can get Winsor & Newton brush cleaner, try it. It doesn't fume like some of the other options, and it works very, very fast. I wet a cotton ball with it and wiped 90% of a default factory faceup off in less than 3 minutes. Then, since the eyeliner was being stubborn, I let the head soak in it for about 10 minutes and went after it with the baby toothbrush, and it came right off with only a few minutes work. I did go over the whole head with a magic eraser wet in it after that, but I didn't really need to. Every other faceup I've removed with it has come off in less than 5 minutes.

 

I'll try to find either the W&N brush cleaner or the 90% alcohol. Otherwise I'm stuck with the 70%, glad to know that will work as well, though with a bit more effort.

 

another option to the W&N brush cleaner is "Pink Soap" -- another brush cleaner :>
i just used it on my awful first faceup attempt, and only had to use a bit of isopropyl in the stubbornest spots (like where the testors pooled i think >>;; and in the @#D@#$ ears)

just my two cents, since I finally have a part-resin of my own!

 

Has anyone else found a Pipos faceup almost impossible to remove?? It took forever, maybe an hour, of scrub, then soak, then scrub, then soak, then swipe with Q tips to try and get the stuff out of the ears and when it finally started coming off, it came off in sheets because it was sealed so thick! Guess few people remove the default faceup when they order a doll with it!

 

I've been told that acetone can melt the face of your doll.

D,:
Iss this true?

 

No it wont not if you use it properly - some people have had adverse reactions though, there is a sticky at the top of the workshop forum with detailed info about acetone and how best to use it as well as other solvent options for removing face-ups.

The biggest issue with acetone is it can soften the resin - not actually melt it but soften it a great deal. If you try to sand it or do any work on the resin whilst its soft then you risk actually gouging it, tearing it or causing it to mis-shape - worst case scenario is a very badly damaged doll. So whenever you use acetone to clean a head or any body part off - leave it to air dry after your've washed it in soapy water rather than drying it with a towel or anything

If you're not sure about how it will react with your dolls resin - just test it inside the head-cap with a q-tip. Its what I use for complete face-up removals and have never had any adverse reactions or problems with the exception of a dark tanned doll which lightened up a full shade - it sanded back nice and cleanly but thats why you should test it first For partial removals though I use a 93% alcohol solution which is equally as effective but I personaly cant stand the smell....

 

so does anyone else have trouble removing their eyebrows??? her's are light and MAN are they stuck on there!I got her lips and eyelashes, but how do you get their eyebrows off? I'm using 91% isopropyl achohol. am I doing something wrong or just not rubbing hard enough???


ahhh!! and sry much! I'm on my mom's account and forgot to log off ><;;;; delfiea is me

 

If the alcohol is tacking to much work, try getting hold of some Winsor and Newton Brush Cleaner and Restorer. It works absolute WONDERS on removing face-ups! It'll still take a lot of scrubbing, but it works the best out of everything I've tried to remove face-ups, personally.

 

Winsor & Newton on a bit of Magic Eraser. You can let the head soak a few minutes too, if you want. I had stubborn eyebrows on my Resinsoul Ni, but a few minutes soaking (longer than planned, as my neighbor stopped by to talk...) followed by a Magic Eraser scrubbing took them off.

 

thank you and sorry for the major newb question ;___;
the magic eraser helped! I forgot I even had one...(it's over a year old)

 

Thanks for this post, delfiea, AmyAngel and Ayas-Shadow. I was in doubt about what to use to remove the FaceUp.

 

I always use salon grade 100% acetone... followed immediately by a good soaking in water to get all the residue off!
It gets the job done and doesn't take forever to do.

 

I would love to do my own face-up's and because I've never done one before I'm going to buy an Obitsu head to practice on. I know you can use pure acetone, rubbing alcohol, etc. to remove the face-up on a resin doll but can you use it on vinyl dolls as well?

 

I actually had this problem as I had an obitsu to face-up as a commission this week

I used my usual clear acetone free remover, as I *think* acetone would melt the vinyl?

Also, during my research I saw it written that on vinyl, just using a magic eraser should work, but I'm not sure on that.

 

When I did a search for "faceup AND vinyl" in this forum, I found several threads about this question. Here are two that look like good places to start your research:

http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211410
http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100044

 

Actually, from what I recall it's never a good idea to use pure acetone on resin BJDs, as with certain companies it can actually melt the resin. D8 Same for vinyl, acetone is VERY strong.

Mr. Clean Magic Erasers are probably the most reliable choice. I haven't seen anyone have trouble with them no matter whether the doll was vinyl or resin.

 

I have plenty of Obitsus. Alcohol or Windsor and Newton brush cleaner and a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser do the job!

 

um can any one recomend what type of stuff to remove my ball joint dolls face up?

 

Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner (you can get it at art and hobby shops) on a plain white paper towel or Magic Eraser works well. It can be oily, though, so you should also wash the head well with a light soap (like Dove) and lukewarm water.

You can also use uncolored Isopropyl Alcohol (I use 70%) and a Magic Eraser. This takes some elbow grease, but you know when the faceup isn't completely cleaned off because the alcohol turns MSC and other sealers white and flaky. It's hard to describe, but you'll know what I mean when you see it.

But... I can't stress this enough, plain white paper towels only. Even a tiny print can get dye on your doll!

 

Seconding (well, way more than that, but you know...) the Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner. I dampen a cotton ball with it and that wipes most of the faceup right off. Any stubborn parts get wiped with a magic eraser dampened with Winsor & Newton, and if there are crevices that are stubborn I'll give it a brief soak and then scrub very gently with a soft baby toothbrush. When it's all done I wash it well, and it's ready for a new faceup.

 

Adding to Kyrie's note, instead of dove soap you can use normal cheap bar soap or light coloured washing up liquid to wash the head after W&N Cleaner.

(I'm only suggesting that because Dove advertises themselves as a moisturising soap (aka oils?) and I find dove kinder on my skin than normal soap - but does resin need that kindness? not really )

 

I use the plainest soap with the least additives I can find. No colors, moisturizers, oils, whatever.

 

I also used the Winsor and Newton Brush Cleaner and it worked like a dream. I used a toothbrush to scrub paint out of my MNF's ears and lips and eyes, and it all came out within 10 minutes. Great stuff!

 

I bought a cheap bottle of acetone-free nail varnish remover at Home Bargains. Worked a treat and is also great at getting the sealant off your hands if you hold your breath to avoid inhaling fumes.

I have the bottle here, it's called "Classics".

 

Is it safe to soak your dolls head in an ebrasive like detergant or bleach to get the faceup easier to get off? I'm have wonders of a time to get into the cracks of my Wing-2's mouth to get his original faceup off...

 

ShadowChan: I haven't heard of anyone using bleach, but wouldn't chance it. And using an abrasive detergent is going to scratch the hell out of the resin. You might not notice fine scratches until you go to put on (or someone else puts on) the next faceup.

Read the above messages. Getting stuff out of crevices and crannies often requires a lot of working at it. Letting something like W&N brush cleaner or 90% alcohol sit there on the paint for a bit and then working at it (not like you're scrubbing a frying pan,though!) with a soft baby toothbrush, a Mr. Clean sponge, or even a toothpick wrapped in a bit of cottonball fibers, and soaked in the cleaner.

Some faceups are so intent on staying for the ages, they would have thrilled the hearts of ancient egyptians.