Maintenance How to remove a face-up: materials and techniques (part 2)

I've done this with my Doll Leaves- Wish boy. I got his default face-up and added freckles and a bit more gloss on his lips but recently I have removed the default with alcohol for the main blushing and W&N Brush Cleaner to remove the stubborn parts. Then I just redid his face using pastels, watercolours, and acrylics. I use Model Master for the sealant until I can get an air compressor for my airbrush.

 

Yeah, sorry if was already asked, but I need a brief summary of safe tips regarding remove a custom face up made by me in 2009 year.
I ve used Acrylic colors (very diluited and light painted on the doll s head) and some chalks for the blush. I 've spray (sprayed?) between one layer and another MSC (classic) mat. Nothing else,
I've read that is better not use acetone, but use alhcool, but is it safe? What type of alcohol is more safe? (on lati resin white skin?) I have the typical alcohol (pink color) , its ok?


There's other ways? No abrahsive sponge mister clean etc..

For re doing a new face up, before startibg to use water colors etc, I have to use MSC even before starting to protect the very first layer of the resin?

Thank you so much!! Im excited because the last time I did a face up was 5 years ago!!

 

Do not use acetone, it might hurt the doll's resin. Use rubbing alcohol (Isopropyl alcohol 100%) or a nailpolish remover that has no color and no acetone. I use rubbing alcohol for my heads and faceup commissions and it works fine, needs lots of rubbing as it said but it's guaranteed to be safe on resin.

And yes, you definately have to spray a sealant before you start painting the doll, otherwise the paints and colors can cause staining.

 

Thank you so much for the tips !
The only doubt I have about rubbing alcohol is because I ve read this:
at the almost end of page it says it can damage resin because some people had problems..

http://bjd-doll-care.dreamwidth.org/473.html

But in supermarket I only find normal alcohol (pink color), where I can find rubbing alcohol and its expensive?
I have to be sure this rubbing alcohol have no color or other conponents?

Thanks!!

sorry a last question: At home I have ethyl alcohol at 90 min. (grade 90) , its the same as rubbing alcool ?
I think is good because its at 90 grade so its almost pure, but the color is pink, not transparent... its ok anyway?

I've also read someone suggested in a page about safely remove face ups, to search for thinners to remove face up that have Ethyl Alcohol -based (th "solvents" such as ethanol (alcohol).) , so this means Ethyl Alcohol at 90 degree is safe to remove the face up?


source says:

Product: Solvent Based Brush Cleaner/Thinners
Where to buy: Art Supply stores, hobby shops some hardware stores

Correct usage: Use as you would with acetone and certain to thoroughly wash with soapy water and rise well in clean water. Be
certain to CLEARLY read the labels – Any thinner with oil as an ingredient is definitely not suitable - look for thinners with "solvents" such as ethanol (alcohol). Same with brush-cleaners be certain to use only acrylic paint products.

Rating: 5/10 can leave residues

Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Do not leave your doll parts un-washed after using this to clean them as most brush
cleaners contain preservers and conditioners to prolong your brush life, if left on the resin for an extended period it can cause
discoloration, uneven resin colour, uneven resin texture, surface pitting and stickyness. Avoid anything containing organic oils
or "linseed" as you risk staining. Some have reported a sticky surface after using repeatedly. Personally I wouldnt use it on a
doll ever

Brands to look for: BrushPlus, Winsor & Newton, Aunt Martha's, Tamiya Brand, Mr Colour Thinner

 

I believe ethyl alcohol should be usable as a cleaner, although I would be a bit nervous about the pink colour. The best thing to do would be to test a small amount inside the head cap of your doll. I would lightly brush a small amount of the alcohol inside the headcap, wait 30 seconds, and then rinse with soapy water, and then dry. If the resin surface becomes sticky or tacky, do not use the alcohol on to clean your doll's face, because that is a sign of the resin being damaged.

If you want to try to find isopropyl alcohol, it's often sold in hardware stores (where you buy things like saws. hammers and house paints). In some countries it is sold in pharmacies as well, so you could ask your pharmacist as well.

 

Thanks! I'll do as you said! Safety is never enough, and before try the test,i'll try to call the pharmacist to see if they have that other type of alcohol!

 

If you look in the Customizing Thread Index, you can see this thread:

Pros & Cons of all of the above: Stripping a Doll Down to Bare Resin

This has a list of all the appropriate sealant removers and how to use them properly.

 

Thanks a lot... btw , since I never saw this acetone not acetone before in any supermarket in my place:



I wanted use ethyl alcohol and I can say it's not good at all... here the results, not only was not able to remove the face up, but also created a sort of white stains in the resin... when I wash it with water, it disappear, when I dry the face, it appears again (in the mouth)

I hope I 'll find this acetone not acetone by maybelline, because people said me that it's good and many artists that used to do face up commissions said they used this and it works perfectly! (they used it for years), now I have to find it, but it seems hard here... in supermarket I never saw this before... >.<

I hope the white stains are just a 'reaction' between MSC and Alcohol, but with acetone not acetone oil free, it will remove really all the face up and stains... (I dont think it's the resin that it's ruined, I really hope it's just a mess -up state between MSC and alcohol! >__<




In this second pic , you can see the ethyl alcohol was able just to erase the red blush of the cheeks
and you can see the MSC layer a bit removed and msc and the layer of the original resin below



:...

 

Yes, ethyl alcohol is made from different stuff than the type to remove faceups, so it may not work well at all. If you can find a high percentage of isopropyl alcohol, that should work better.
The trick with using non-acetone nail polish removers is just to check and make sure it won't stain.

 

That white stuff is definitely nothing to worry about. It's just the MSC being partially-but-not-completely removed, because the alcohol you are using isn't as strong as the stuff people normally recommend. Don't worry about having ruined your doll, but definitely look into other options for cleaning her

Also, I think the 'acetone but not acetone' you are talking about is acetone-free nail-polish remover (which is an alternative to nail-polish remover with acetone in it, which some women cannot use because it damages fake nails and can dry out skin). Your pharmacist or possibly supermarket (if they have a make-up section) should have some. The important thing with acetone-free nail-polish remover is to get one that is CLEAR. Many people have reported that coloured nail-polish remover has stained their dolls and that even stronger alcohols won't remove those stains. This is probably because it is weaker than other cleaners, so you have to really scrub the doll, for a long time, to remove the face-up.

 

Thanks again for all the advises! I'll update here when I'll remove the face up to show how I will resolve this!

I'm sorry , I didn't understand well this... in which sense using non-acetone 'it's just to check and make sure it won't stain'? What mean the 'trick'?
It means that I just have to be careful to choose the right acetone non acetone, and be sure it won't stain, that's the 'tricky part'? (and once you are sure it not stain , I can proceed?

 

I just use normal thinner (for paint mix) to remove it. works really well but must be careful about the container, because thinner melts certain kinds of plastics.

 

I definitely wouldn't use any kind of regular paint thinner on resin, there's too many risks.

Have you tried checking in the first-aid department of your local pharmacy for isopropyl alcohol? It's a disinfectant, and the higher percentage of alcohol content, the better it will work for faceup removal. It may take a little rubbing still (I use cheap cotton makeup applicator rounds), but it should strip the faceup away quite easily, with the least risk of damage. It should not have any tint, if you're getting the right stuff, since it's meant for treating injuries and wouldn't have anything extra added like dyes that could do more harm than good.

 

There are some specific types of acrylic thinner that people can use to remove faceups; Mr. Color Thinner is one of them.

But on to non-acetone nail polish remover - clear non-acetone nailpolish remover may be hard to find outside of a beauty or nail supply store.

If you are using a colored type, you should use a cotton ball and get it wet with the non-acetone nail polish remover, and swap on the headcap. Then wash it off and see if it stained. If it did not, you should be safe to remove the faceup with it.

 

Thanks again! Im still not able to find the Maybelline nail polish remover without acetone I've showed in the pic.. I trust that one with green bottle's cap because a friend of mine who did a lot of faceups use this, and says me it works great on resin!
But I cant find anywhere in my local shops! >_<

 

Question ... I tried and failed to get my hands on Winsor&Newton, which sounds like the best / safest faceup remover (the only alcohol I managed to get was 75% and didn't do jack, and all the nail polish removers available are coloured), but I seem to remember someone mentioning a Games Workshop product, maybe Citadel brand, to remove acrylic paints and Purity Seal (which is my sealer of choice) - does anyone happen to know what that might have been? I couldn't find anything on the GW page.

Alternatively, do all brush cleaners work as well as W&N? What would I need to pay attention to if I wanted to find a suitable alternative?

 

I wish I could ask this in Newbieland, I feel like this is so basic.. ><
I just did my first faceup and want to remove and re-do parts (actually, maybe all) of it. Before starting, I sealed with 2 lightish layers of ZM Finishing Powder Spray. Then I let it sit a while, did the faceup, took the photos I wanted, and have made notes about what I want to do differently next time. I have not sealed the face after applying the faceup, no gloss applied yet (just acrylic and pastel blushing) and it's all done on a single layer.

I want to know whether magic eraser sponge would remove the base sealer layer, along with the paint I remove?
Would isopropanol (90%) remove that base layer?
Ideally, I'd like to leave that base layer intact if possible, but feeling how velvety and powdery it was initially, I'm curious how it would come through a full-face washing or spot cleaning. Having to re-apply the base sealer coat wouldn't a big big deal, but I don't want to keep adding more layers if it's not necessary either.

 

Never mind my question. I found some acetone-free nail polish remover in pale pink (so that if it did stain the doll it wouldn't be too noticeable) and used cotton swabs, washing the head with dish detergent immediately and rinsing thoroughly with cold water. Worked like a charm.

 

I've always used winsor & Newton and it's never done my dolls any harm

 

Hey guys. Can I remove my Dollie dream face up with acetone??


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Before I did the previous faceup on my pipos bao, I sanded his head all over with very very fine sandpaper. He had some scratches and minor defects in the resin surface that were making even distribution of pastels difficult, and part of his face was almost shiny-smooth in contrast w/the entire rest of his body, which is nicely matte and has a tiny bit of "tooth" to it. Sanding fixed those problems, and his (very basic) faceup went fine. But when I removed the now-damaged faceup a couple days ago with windsor and newton, his entire head was semi-shiny and way too smooth again. Has anybody else had w&n brush cleaner do this? I'd gotten the impression that w&n was supposed to be good for AVOIDING dissolving the surface of resin. I know very fine all over sanding a couple of times isn't going to alter the shape of my doll but like. Idk, I'm clumsy and unlucky, faceups only stay undamaged so long with me, and I'm not thrilled about the cumulative effect of solvent melting down the sanded surface of his head and having to re-sand it for each faceup over time.

 

Someone told me that the main ingredient in Windsor Newton brush cleaner is alcohol, but it also has some sort of emollient (for conditioning the brushes), so that may be why the surface looks smooth again. Whenever I use W and N to clean a face-up, I always follow immediately with dish detergent and water and a cleaning sponge. See if a once-over with dish detergent and cleaning sponge will restore the matte surface of your head.

Note, 'cleaning sponges', (Volks cleaning sponge, Mr. Clean... any of the white melamine sponges) are slightly abrasive which is why you should avoid using them on face-ups or blushing that you want to keep intact. It is not much, but it may also be giving your head a very slight polishing versus the sand paper you were using, making it a little smoother than it was.

 

I do wash doll heads/parts with detergent and water after removing faceups/blushing, and I haven't used a magic eraser or similar on him. =/ Hm. Thank you for responding! I suppose it's also possible I had excessive sealant on there and haven't actually gotten it all off, and that that is what smoothed down? There's no visible residue like when I've had leftover sealant after cleaning w/alcohol, though. I'm gonna try just rubbing alcohol, which I know at least didn't mess with the resin surface on him before, and then re-wash, I guess.

 

Has anyone ever had a problem using Windsor and Newton to remove a factory faceup on Fairyland doll? I'm wondering if factory faceups are easier or harder to remove that custom artists' faceups, or if anyone has specific experience with Fairyland factory faceups.

 

Hi! I am a first time doll owner and I've been practicing on faceups with my two heads [one floating and the other a full doll head]. I am VERY VERY paranoid when it comes to removing faceups and ruining my doll's face forever and ever T_T I use Mr. Color thinner and so far it's okay, I removed a faceup with it already and there were no problems, I made sure to test it on the cap first and it seemed fine. However, I was told to remove the thinner immediately after all the paint disappeared. So yeah, I washed everything and SCRUBBED it off with a toothbrush and dish soap.

I've done it two times in one doll head however, I am completely paranoid and want to ask if it's actually bad to scrub the face with toothbrush? ; n ; I mean, I am afraid of getting scratches all over my doll face. I wanted to make sure that the thinner is completely gone. The face is fine right now though, there are no visible scratches or damages or anything, but I just needed to make sure so I won't make the same mistake again the next time I wash all the thinner off her face. D: I don't want to risk anything QAQ

 

no it's fine to clean it with a toothbrush. just don't press to hard with the brush and everything will be fine.
when using mr color thinner it's also fine to rinse it with water afterwards ^^

 

Instead of jumping right into color thinner, you can also use rubbing alcohol. There are only a few times I have not been able to completely remove a faceup with rubbing alcohol and they were usually because the prior owner did not seal before painting.

 

oh! thankyou so much [MENTION=54064]Jigarkhvar[/MENTION] and [MENTION=67057]maelstromrider[/MENTION] ; u ; okay I will keep those tips in mind the next time I wipe off her faceup >o<)b I've never tried rubbing alcohol before ; v ; I will research more on which kind I should use >o<)b

 

After the solvent , wash your face up liquid (Fairy).

 

it seems i have made a newbie mistake and used coloured nail polish remover on my doll... Now her lips, nose and are around her eyes are tainted a bit green... is there any way of reversing the process, but not using a sandpaper? magic sponge? will face up cover it if anything?

 

Edit:I forgot to add that the Simple Green cleaner is green, but don't be concerned. I've let my WS dolls soak for 15 mins and they never get tinted or anything.

A gentler option that I use is Simple Green Industrial Strength Cleaner. I use it on my doll's faceups straight up, I don't dilute it. The bottle will have dilution instructions, but I found that diluted, it takes FOREVER to get the face up off. It's cut through my Liquidtex Matte Medium (my sealant choice) and Varnish. I do the head for a bit in order to get the acrylic paint off, then I scrub at it with a clean make up sponge to get into the nooks and crannies.

 

Newbie here, too. Not all nail polish removers are the same. I've yet to do a faceup on expensive dolls, just ball jointed fashion dolls. That said, I always use pure or just slightly diluted acetone. Takes off everything, but, BIG HOWEVER, it eats anything it's left on. I work quick and wash it off thoroughly and immediately and only use it because it's no big loss if one of my fashion dolls gets damaged.

 

i saw elsewhere that someone used an alkaseltzer tablet or something like that to clean a doll. Could a denture cleaner tablet work? my dolls faceups aren't coming off at all.

 

I have the problem that I can't find anywhere a solvent like acetone with no acetone,
I found pure acetone for nail polish that says as ingredients:
Acetone, Aqua, Parfum
(there's no oils, just acetone + water and parfum. Do you think parfum can stain the resin? I think perfume evaporates due to the alcohol, so it's ok I guess?)
The color is transparent, it looks very basic as inci, no color added, no oil... is it safe?

I can't find anywhere, really, acetone 100%.... I don't know what to do...

or... I wonder if there's something that I can find also in drugstore? Like the Isopropyl alcohol.. that looks is safe on resin ?
And what's the price of Isopropyl alcohol in a drugstore? It's like this one?

http://www.ebay.it/itm/Alcool-isopr...d9b86f&pid=100204&rk=1&rkt=29&sd=251443694604

In the composition it says "IDEAL FOR DRUMS IN SELENIUM AND SIMILAR HEADS-FD" (it's sure that this is good for dolls too?)

CLEANSER ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 97%
PACKAGE 1 LT.
DENATURED NOT REFERRED TO THE RECORDINGS UTIF
COMPOSITION:
97% ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL
3% ISOBUTYL ALCOHOL
IDEAL FOR DRUMS IN SELENIUM AND SIMILAR HEADS-FD

Edit:
As I live in Italy, Im still confused what people mean here when they says that Rubbing alcohol is it the most safe , or Isopropyl alcohol . (are the same thing?)
I wonder also, if rubbing alcohol, works well as acetone, to remove face up? Or with rubbing alcohol there's need even more time before the face up is fully removed?
I saw pictures of rubbin alcohol that says 70% of isopropyl. I should get the 100% rubbin alcohol or 70% is more safe?

Sorry Im sooo confused >A<

 

Rubbing alcohol and isopropyl alcohol are the same thing. The 97% that you linked to will work just fine. I prefer it to acetone since it is safer for the resin ( when I can't get brush cleaner ).

 

Ok, thanks. But now I m confused again. I read some pages ago here, that rubbing alcohol is it more safe fot resin, and now I read that acetone is more safe? ><
And I read acetone is not safe and need the acetone not acetone. But I would like to know if in drugstore have rubbing alcohol? Or i have to order it on internet? I dont want order on internet ><
Sorry im still confused...
Or can I use the acetone I mentioned above with its ingredients?

Thanks again for the help




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soulcalibur33, most things that talk about acetone and alcohol will tell you how each one is safe and how each one can be unsafe. It is all about how you use them.

The only thing to look out for with alcohol is that you should not use something with color or scent additives. You can find just plain rubbing alcohol in a drugstore.

 

The thing with acetone is that some company resins are more susceptible to damage than others. And you won't know until you use it. There also is less leeway for error. Stick with the rubbing/isopropyl alcohol!

 

I use Winsor and Newton brush cleaner to remove faceups. It's very much worth the price, and a little cheaper when you get a big bottle.

 

That's a great tip. I cleaned my 2005 Luts Juri with the white foam cleaner pads and it stained her face. I've sent her off to Nomyen for a faceup and I hope she can repair her. I should have spent the $10 and let Nomyen professionally clean her.

 

Thanks! Can you help me just on a thing? I remember some time ago, I ve found here on DOA a really complete guide about all the methods to remove faceup to dolls. It was very complete. I've searched again but I found another guide about acetone (always here) but it was not complete like that one I've once found.... do you know what type of guide was this one? I remember was a long list of all the types of acetone and other stuff and how to use them and what to be careful...

 

I've had a good experience with Simple Green. I just soak it for 15 minutes and use a make up sponge and it all comes right off. Despite the green color of the cleaner, I've never had any staining problems. I find it very gentle. Simple Green won't remove things like decals, but a face up will come right off (as long as it was sealed before you started working) It is also much cheaper than Winsor Newton.

 

haha I think it's really OK to use brushes.. may be u can try the softer one

 

Hello!! PLease help!

I've found and bought acetone free maybelline !! People told me they use this to remove faceup BUT I see it contain oil avocado and persea gratissima oil!!!!! , linalool etc... now, I know oils must stay away from resin, so...... why people who remove faceups for years said me Maybelline acetone free with green cup is ok??? someone can assure me that dont stain resin, or damage resin? The acetone free maybelline is exact like the one you see above in my post .. thanks for the help!

 

Ok, I quote myself. I finally find the courage to try this Maybelline acetone free (with green cap) and I must say that it works perfectly! (I just washed the resin after I use it, so that the little percentual of oils would not affect the resin, and infact, nothing bad happen at all! The resin is perfet, and this nail remover acetone free
it work really well! It deleted everything is 1 second! So don't worry at all!

 

Is white spirit the same thing as rubbing alcohol? I've never seen rubbing alch. in shops 'round here but there's a ton of white spirit so if that'd work I'd be pretty set.

Tho' I've read (in other doa threads) that neat vodka (w/high alcohol content) works as a cleaner but I'm not sure if I'm happy using booze like that ha

 

Plain cheap vodka actually does work pretty well as a cleaner. In the spirit of full disclosure, I've never actually used it on a doll, but I did use it to help dissolve adhesive from a glue trap my cat got into when he was a kitten, since we didn't have any rubbing alcohol on hand, and it behaved pretty much the same, just with a different smell.

It would probably be more expensive than the rubbing alcohol, though. Looking it up, "White Spirit" is mineral spirits/petroleum spirits, so it's not the same thing. Since it's petroleum-based, I'd definitely test it on an inconspicuous or scrap piece first (and extensively) to ensure it wouldn't do any damage, if no one else has tried it before.

Wikipedia suggests "Surgical Spirit" as a name you might find it under in the UK, [MENTION=27093]Morphic Lunatic[/MENTION]. "Rubbing Alcohol" is sort of a general term for Isopropyl, Ethyl, or Denatured alcohol here. Hopefully that can help you a bit!

 

Ah! That's interesting, thank you vicemage! Surgical spirit is used for cleaning earrings and other body jewelry so I hadn't even thought of seeing if that was what I needed.

I'm probably not gonna be the one to test white spirit as a cleaner, not anytime soon anyway. Rereading the ingredients list made me wheezy.

 

It does look a little touchy, yeah; I don't blame you for not wanting to try it! Hopefully getting the UK name for it will help you and some others along the way; the stronger you can find, the better, but with patience even the weaker ones should eventually work their way through the sealant and clean the faceup off for you.

 

In Europe you will get rubbing alcohol / surgical spirit at the drug store /pharmacy / apotek. Ask for the stuff used to clean surgical equipment. It removes faceups rather well, but you need a bit of patience and some elbow grease.

White spirits I would never use on a doll.

I have however used the acetone free nail polish remover from H&M with luck on some extremely hard to get off faceups. It is blue, but have not stained the 2 heads I have used it on. It dissolves the sealant and paint in a jiffy, but be sure to work quickly and wash and rinse as you go along.

 

I have been attempting to remove my boy's current face up as it just doesnt suit him, and so far I have been doing okay. I've been using some 70% isopropyl and with a bit of elbow grease it'll do the job. My only problem is my boy's sculpt has a pretty deep lip crevice (and nostrils too). I'm not at all sure how I could clean right down in them;; I've currently been using cotton pads and occasionally tearing them up to make home made cotton tips sort of a thing, and they simply won't reach. Anybody out there got a clue?

 

When I'm trying to remove faceup or sealant remnants from places like ears, nostrils, lip crevices etc I always use a cocktail stick. Dip it in the isopropyl alcohol or whatever remover you're using for a couple of seconds and then just use it to poke in the tiny, awkward places. I haven't had it leave any marks or anything, and I do this frequently with all my dolls, including tan skinned ones etc. Hope that helps! And if not, maybe others will have more tips for you.

 

I do the same - the wood of the toothpick is softer than trying to use something else. I also try to use a higher percentage of alcohol. I'm not sure what the highest you can get in the UK is, but I can easily find 91% in my grocery store or pharmacy.

 

I've bought 99% Iso Alcohol over here before, so I would definitely suggest as AirimirOfGondor says, get a stronger product and use the toothpicks. It seriously works wonders and I've even removed stuff that I didn't even realise was there until afterwards. XD

 

I'll second (third? fourth? nth?) the toothpick suggestion; I restored a pretty stained head with 91% isopropyl alcohol, toothpicks, a (dedicated) stiff toothbrush, and a lot of patience. Neither the toothpicks nor the stiff toothbrush will do any damage, and with enough soaking, scrubbing and poking, eventually all the sealant--and the coloring trapped in it--will come free.

 

Thanks for the input guys, toothpicks do seem the way to go apparently! Now to just find the blighters in the kitchen! I liked the toothbrush idea too, vicemage. As for higher percentages of isopropyl, I have actually visited four different places (Boots and Superdrugs) and this was the highest percentage I could find... And in the mothercare section too (I don't know why). Maybe that's just because I didn't realise that isopropyl and propan-2-ol are the same thing, and sometimes it's listed as the other. Anyway, I'll get back to searching then :> and again, thanks for the advice!

 

If you can find pure acetone, use that instead of the isopropyl alcohol with the toothpick, it'll be much easier. I'm at the same situation as you on the 70% isopropyl (in the process of removing a faceup today)...really slow and hard to get the small spots, even with a toothpick. If you're sufficiently patient, you can eventually do it, but it's easier to find something stronger.

 

I leave toothpicks soaking in the liquid I am removing the face-up with. How many toothpicks I have ready for me depends on how detailed with deep cracks and features the doll has. That is my method. I usually have 3 or 4 toothpicks ready for me. From I use Windsor Newton, I try not to exceed past 10 minutes with that stuff so I can wash it quickly.

 

Have you tried an old toothbrush? I always use acetone free nailpolish remover, dip a toothbrush in and scrub the tight places. It's always very effective, but it's best to keep a rag or towel near because the remover will run over the head with this method.

 

Hey! Has anyone used mr. paint remover (mr. Hobby brand) to remove doll make up and/or body blushing? the guy from the store told me it's used to remove paint from plastic models, so it shouldn't damage most of plastic types out there but I'm not sure if doll's resin is included on the list. I have seen many artist using mr. Paint thinner to remove face ups but also found people advisig against it because is too strong. I'm not sure if mr. Paint remover is a mild version of the thinners? Has anyone had any experiences with it yet?

Just to add one thing:
I have tested it on the inside of my saiph's scalp and I cant see any visible damage on the surface. But i'm still a little worried to rub right on the face because of the sealant, im afraid of what reaction it will have. Hence i'm here asking first