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Materials How do people work with La Doll and similar clays?

Apr 30, 2013

    1. I've done a fair amount of sculpting in plasteline modeling clay (e.g. NSP), and I've made a lot of doll shoe and accessory masters from Super Sculpey Firm, but I'm having trouble making anything usable from La Doll and La Doll Premier. I'm wondering if there are some basic tips I need to succeed. The problem is that I can't seem to get the clay into the shapes I want, because of how putty-like it is. I try to push or shape in one small area, and I end up warping the entire piece. It's so soft, that I'm having trouble just finding a way to hold the piece I'm working on without smooshing it. Working with the harder, firmer modeling clays is very easy for me, I just work subtractively, scraping away everything that is not part of the final piece. But I can't seem to take this approach with the air dry clay, since it's virtually impossible to carve away a chunk without pulling and warping the surrounding clay. Is this stuff meant to be worked only additively, putting on little bits at a time? Do I need special tools? What's the trick? I'm lost right now, it feels like I'm trying to make fine art out of pizza dough, and I end up just rolling my work into a ball and walking away from it. Also, it dries out so fast that it is getting caked onto my tools. Should I be using a spray bottle to keep misting the piece to keep it workable?

      Are there any video tutorials that show someone making a head (or any body part) from the La Doll stuff?
       
    2. some people construct head stands to hold the clay while they work. You might find this tutorial contain useful tips for you.

      Most important of all, work in stages, put on a thin layer in the shape you want, let it dry, then work by areas, let those dry, work more, refine, etc. Ladoll shrinks a little as it dries, so cutting apart the piece once you've built up a rough shape to take out the core will help to prevent cracking and warping.

      To be honest, I don't like ladoll that much...I like working in water clays and oil clays best. But people have gotten amazing results with ladoll!
       
    3. I work with just regular Paperclay- Ladoll seems too 'puffy' to me. I usually do the subtracting after its dried- since it can be sanded and carved much easier then plasteline clay. Like what Penguu said- letting it dry between stages is the best way to work with it.
      My tools are covered in it as well- its best to clean your tools right away or have to soak them in water to be able to get it off.
       
    4. I use a frim base (a wad of paper or a shape made out of carton or foam) and then add clay to it. When it is dry I add more clay in a more defined shape and let it dry again. Then I subtract with files, knives and sanding paper. When the clay is soft, it's great for sculpting by moving the clay around. When it's dry it's great for carving, cutting and sanding. I keep a spray bottle or some water nearby to moist the clay when it gets too dry. When you want to add new clay to a dry part, wet the area with water first before adding clay so it will stick.

      I have a video of me working on a head with Premier paper clay. The sculpting starts at 3:25.
      [video=youtube;WgcaztL7tGw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgcaztL7tGw&feature=share&list=UU443lQ0LUcFkmjJMhfZWwhQ[/video]
      I'ts basically add clay, let it dry, sand it in shape, add clay, let it dry, sand it in shape, etc. I use an oven to speed up the drying process.

      Batchix has posted several videos on sculpting with paperclay:
      http://youtu.be/sx25Uc5w3NY
      http://youtu.be/Om1JE530euc
      http://youtu.be/d-C3X4Ak98o
       
      #4 Muisje, May 1, 2013
      Last edited by a moderator: May 1, 2013
    5. I have two 'modes' when working with LaDoll: adding and substracting.

      1. First I wrap a layer of clay on an NSP-core (the NSP is wrapped in a plastic film). After I've let this dry, I add another layer - dry - another layer - dry - etc, until I have the basic shape of the head. I carve out the eye sockets and start with the base of the nose.

      To speed up the drying, I 'bake' the head in the over at a 70 degrees C.

      2. With the basics there, I start carving. I carve out the nose from the basic shape, I carve out the cheek mass, work on the jawline and carve out the place where the mouth is going to be.

      3. Then, I add little bits of clay to build up the mouth (start with the lower lip, than add the upper lip when the lower has hardened). I let it dry and finish the mouth by carving and sanding it into shape. I also add clay 'eyes' in the sockets and wrap the eyelids over them. When dried, I'm using the carving tools again to shape them up.

      4. Now that head is completely done, except for the ears, I'm cutting of the headcap (usually I use a fine toothed saw). I take out the NSP ball, drill holes where the eyes are and the neckhole is going to be and then use my dremel to completely finishing the inside of the head and the neckhole.

      5. Finally, I add the ears. I start out with an earlike disk where I want the ears to be. I let it dry, carve out the inside of the ear completely and then finally add clay where I want the outer ridge to be. And finally the head is done!

      Like penguu said, the trick is to use layer after layer at a time. If you use too much clay at one go, it gets hard to control and more importantly: there's a great risk that the clay will crack when it starts drying. I guess this has to do with the fact that the upper layer is already drying (and therefore shrinking), while the claymass underneath is still soft and wet.

      Anyway, I really prefer LaDoll/Premier/Formofit and the like over any other clay, but it takes a different approach.
       
    6. Thank you everyone, for your feedback! After seeing the tutorial, video and reading the process description above, it's clear that I was going about this the wrong way. I was expecting to plunk down a big, head-sized lump of La Doll and quickly coerce it into a head before it dried, and I can see that no one is working that way (and indeed, I was failing to get that to work out). I like the idea of starting with a preformed inner "skull" for the head, and adding little bits of clay to it. That makes so much more sense than trying to work this stuff like regular clay.
       
    7. Echoing what everyone said. I'd like to add that regular La Doll is firmer than Premiere, more like pottery clay. Also it helps to use "slippery" tools-- silicone, metal or even a damp paintbrush.
       
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