Knitting Help converting a knit pattern for humans to BJD size?

I's do it by average height of a real child compared to the height of the YoSD.

10 inches tall for a YoSD /40 inches tall for an average 4 year old = 1/4 scale works nicely for easy calculations

Teddy

 

It's what I'd start with and go up or down yarn and needle sizes according to the size my test swatch came out... but that doesn't look right when multiplying that 14cm chest by four (56cm) when the chest size for size four is listed as 73.5 cm... so I'm not so sure (and maths has never been my strong suit)...

Teddy

 

Good luck! I'll be interested to see how it comes out.

Teddy

 

@cleverLC Laceweight yarn might be too big for 25 stitches/inch, depending on the yarn. To obtain that gauge, I use a single strand of embroidery floss and size 000 000 U.S. knitting needles. (6/0 needles) I use this gauge for Realpukis and maybe Pukipukis. Making a Littlefee sweater in that gauge would intimidate me but you're probably braver than me!

 

I don't know the American sizes

I've used 0.35mm needles with single strand yarn (not embroidery floss, I'd be put off by the lack of stretch/give, I think) to make this PukiFee sized sock that my RealPukis complain is too large for them:


But used laceweight yarn and larger needles (2mm or 2.25mm, perhaps) for my LittleFee size knitting


No idea of gauge for either size though, as I'm terrible about doing that and tend to just dive in and start knitting

Teddy

 

@Teddy My #000 000 U.S. needles are 0.7mm to 0.75mm or a U.K. size 22. (I should've written that earlier.)

@cleverLC How I start a knitting project for a BJD is to choose the yarn first, establish the gauge, then work out dimensions of the piece by measuring the intended BJD. Littlefees have oversized heads that often need sweaters split down the back if they aren't split down the front. But thank goodness for their removable hands! Brilliant move from Fairyland!
I hope your project goes well!

 

I mostly knit stuff to a formula rather than a pattern so the same formula can be used to make jumpers or socks for YoSD size (or smaller) right through to SD size or larger by adjusting needle and yarn size and how many stitiches you cast on to begin with, without worrying about gauge.

Sock yarn in all these examples - for the jumpers, needle size and initial cast-on size altered, for the socks just initial cast on number altered.




Teddy

 

Happy knitting! Have fun with your new boy

Teddy

 

Yay! New Doll Joy!

Teddy

 

Do you have a technique for separating out the single strands of embroidery floss? I've wanted to try both knitting and crocheting with a single strand but haven't figured out a way to get that single strand of floss without creating a tangled mess of the skein! There must be a way! Short lengths I can manage, but a whole skein... no. Thanks for any advice you can offer

 

They all look great! Is the pattern for the socks something you can share by any chance?

 

It's more of a formula than a pattern,

The basic version I started off with to learn the formula was multiples of six:

- cast on six, six, and twelve stitches in double point needles
- knit six rows of rib for the cuff
- knit six rows stocking stitch for the ankle
- continue only on the two needles with six stitches for twelve rows, working the knit rows by slipping every other stitch to the other needle without kitting it. for the back of the heel.
- knit eight, knit two together, leave remaining stitches on needle,
* - turn, purl six, purl 2 together, leave remaining stitches on needle,
- knit six, knit two together, leave remaining stitches on needle,*
- Repeat between ** until 3 stitches remain on each needle.
- knit the six remaining stitches (3 on each needle) then pick up nine stitches along the side of the heel-back(snugging last stitch in as close to the start of the twelve stitches you've left untouched on the other needle while you worked the heel).
- knit those twelve stiches
- pick up nine stitches along the other edge of the heel piece (snugging the fist in as close to the end of the 12 stitches you just knit as possible)and knit three stitches from on e of the heel needles.
You should now have twelve stitches on each needle,
- continue knitting, reducing every other row by knitting two titches together at the end of the first heel section, and slip-slip knit two togehter at the start of the second heel section. until you are back to the original six, six, and twelve stiches on the needle.
- knit six rows stocking stitch
- reduce for the toe shaping (needle of twelve stitches = top of foot, two needles of six stitches = sole)
* - (top) slip, slip, knit together for first two stiches, knit to last two stitches, knit last two together
- (sole) slip, slip, knit together for first two stiches, knit to last two stitches, knit last two together
- purl a row*
- Repeat between ** until three stitches, three stitches, six stitches remain on each needle
- Kitchener stitch to graft the end of the toes closed.

To make bigger or smaller sock use the same formula but using mutiples of 8 for larger, or four for smaller. Once you're used to that, experiment with smaller needles and finer yarn, and bigger needles with thicker yarn (although I tend to not go thicker than sock yarn and just increase stitch numbers/mutiples for doll socks unless I want really chunky "hiking socks" laceweight yarns and strands of embroidery floss can make some very small/fine socks indeed. The smallest I've made were on 0.35mm needles. It came out well, but is fiddly/delicate work and I've never gotten aorund to casting on and knitting the second sock to make a pair.

Teddy

 

Thank you so much for taking the time to write all this out so clearly!! I will definitely be making some sock with your "formula". As my mom used to say, you are a "peach".

 

You're welcome - just message me if you get stuck and/or I need to clarify any of the instructions.

Teddy

 

I'm HAPPY to nerd out on the subject of tiny knitting!

This is labor intensive but it works for me:
I work with floss skeins mostly from DMC and Valdani. (Floss from other brands might come in different forms.) I remove the paper or plastic wrapper(s) around the floss and gently part the skein in the middle so it forms a circle of floss. I put my left hand through the floss circle and onto my wrist to keep it under control. I wind all 6 plies onto a paper floss card and label the card with the brand and color number. I then use 2 more paper floss cards to separate 1 ply from the other 5 plies. I use a small bullnose clip on each paper card to keep the floss from accidentally coming off the cards while unwinding the 6-ply card and winding the 1-ply and 5-ply cards. When done, I remove the bullnose clips, label the 2 cards and tuck the loose ends of floss in the small slots at the bottom of the cards. Whew!
THEN I'm ready to knit or crochet.
P.S. I love Sulky's Cotton Petites handwork thread on spools, too! It's a single thread, ready to knit or crochet right from purchase. It's for handwork, so the twist is not too tight (which makes tiny knitting stiff). Cotton Petites thread is thicker than 1 ply of floss. I get 18 sts/inch and 24 rows/inch with Cotton Petites. (I get 24 sts/inch and 30 rows/inch with 1 ply floss.)
There you have it! Happy Stitching!

 

Thank you!!! I really appreciate your taking the time to explain how you mange all that floss. I agree that is must be labour intensive, but it sounds efficient and workable. I'll definitely try your technique! Thanks again!