Crochet Halter neck top for mature slim minis.

This is a pattern for a crochet halterneck top that will fit most mature, slim minis. The top is tied in the back and behind the neck, making the fit very forgiving.
It is pictured here on a Lati Blue and a Withdoll JWD, for reference.

Spoiler: Crochet Pattern

Halterneck top for slim minis.
This pattern uses American crochet terms.

16/1 linen
0,75mm hook
Gauge: 25 stitches and 10 rows in dc = 5x5cm

Abbreviations:
ch = chain stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
RS = right side
WS = wrong side

Cup (make two of these)
RS 1. ch 11. sc into the 9:th chain. sc 1 in each of the following 8 ch.
WS 2. ch 2 and turn, this counts as 1 dc. dc in each sc until you reach the ch2 loop (tot. 9dc). Into the loop, work dc2+ch2+dc2. dc in each dc until end of row.
RS 3. ch 2 and turn, this counts as 1 dc. dc in each dc until you reach the ch2 loop (tot. 11dc). Into the loop, work dc2+ch2+dc2. dc in each dc until end of row.
WS 4. ch 2 and turn, this counts as 1 dc. dc in each dc until you reach the ch2 loop (tot. 13dc). Into the loop, work dc2+ch2+dc2. dc in each dc until end of row. tie off.

Bodice.
WS 1. ch 22. *sc into top of dc in the corner of the first cup, right where the yarn end is. Work along the bottom edge of the cup, sc 2 into dc bar x 3. sc 1 each into foundation ch and sc at the center of the cup edge. sc 2 into each dc bar x3. sc into top of corner dc.* ch 1. Repeat *-* for second cup. ch 22. (tot 77 stitches).
RS 2. ch2 and turn, this counts as 1 dc. *ch 1, skip 1, dc 1* repeat until end of row.
3-5. ch2 and turn, this counts as 1 dc. *skip 1, dc 3 into 1, skip 1, dc 1* repeat until end of row.
Picot edge.
RS 6. Ch 1 to turn. sc in he first. *sc 1, sc1 + ch2 + sc1 into 1, sc1, skip 1* repeat 19 times. sc 1. tie off.

Upper edge and halter ties:
Attach the yarn at the corner of the bodice upper edge, where the yarn end is.
sc in first. *ch1, skip 1, sc 1* repeat 10 times. Move to the cup by sc into the second dc, then continue sc in each until you reach the ch loop (tot 14 sc).
First halter tie: sc 1 into the ch loop. ch 85, ch 1 to turn, sc into each chain. sc 1 into ch loop on cup.
sc 14. skip to second dc on next cup. sc 14.
Second halter tie: sc 1 into the ch loop. ch 85, ch 1 to turn, sc into each chain. sc 1 into ch loop on cup.
sc 14. move to back edge by sc into the next dc base (count 11 dc from the end of row to find the right one). *ch1, skip 1, sc 1* repeat *-* 10 times. Tie off.

Chest tie:
ch 200 (or about 40 cm).

Weave in all the ends and block the top.

Blocking:
Soak the garment in water until the linen fibers are fully saturated (leave it in for at least an hour, or so).
Wash out the garment with a mild detergent. This step is optional, but it's a good time to get rid of any grime from handling during making as well as any surplus dye in the yarn that could otherwise stain your doll.
Rinse the garment thoroughly and gently wring it out.
Handle the garment while it is drying. Shape it, smooth it out and generally move it about. This will "break in" the garment and give it a nice drape.

Thread a small charm onto the chest tie. Locate the center front bar of row 2 of the bodice. Pull the ends of the tie through the spaces beside the center bar, on end on each side, so that the charm is centered on the right side at the center front of the bodice. Weave the rest of the tie through the rest of the spaces.

Second version of the pattern!
Note that the only thing that has changed is how the pattern is written, the actual stitches are identical, so feel free to use either version, they will both produce the exact same top.

Spoiler: Halterneck top 1.2

Halterneck top for slim minis.
This pattern uses American crochet terms.

16/1 linen
0,75mm hook
Gauge: 25 stitches and 10 rows in dc = 5x5cm

Abbreviations:
ch = chain stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
R = row

Cup (make two of these)
R1 (RS): ch 11. sc into the third chain from the hook. sc 1 in each of the remaining 8 ch.
R2 (WS): ch 2 and turn, this counts as 1 dc. dc in each sc until you reach the ch2 space (tot. 9dc). Into the ch2 space, work (dc2,ch2,dc2). dc in each dc until end of row.
R3 (RS): ch 2 and turn, this counts as 1 dc. dc in each dc until you reach the ch2 space (tot. 11dc). Into the ch2 space, work (dc2,ch2,dc2). dc in each dc until end of row.
R4 (WS): ch 2 and turn, this counts as 1 dc. dc in each dc until you reach the ch2 space (tot. 13dc). Into the ch2 space, work (dc2,ch2,dc2). dc in each dc until end of row. tie off.

Bodice.
R1 (WS): ch 22. *sc into top of dc in the corner of the first cup, right where the yarn end is. Work along the bottom edge of the cup, sc 2 into dc bar x 3. sc 1 each into foundation ch and sc at the center of the cup edge. sc 2 into each dc bar x3. sc into top of corner dc.* ch 1. Repeat *-* for second cup. ch 22. (tot 77 stitches).
R2 (RS): ch2 and turn, this counts as 1 dc. *ch 1, skip 1, dc 1* repeat until end of row.
R3-5: ch2 and turn, this counts as 1 dc. *skip 1, dc 3 into 1, skip 1, dc 1* repeat until end of row.
Picot edge.
R6 (RS): Ch 1 to turn. sc in he first. *sc 1, sc1 + ch2 + sc1 into 1, sc1, skip 1* repeat 19 times. sc 1. tie off.

Upper edge and halter ties:
Attach the yarn at the corner of the bodice upper edge, where the yarn end is.
sc in first. *ch1, skip 1, sc 1* repeat 10 times. Move to the cup by sc into the second dc, then continue sc in each until you reach the ch space (tot 14 sc).
First halter tie: sc 1 into the ch loop. ch 86, sc into each chain starting in the second ch from the hook. sc 1 into ch space on cup.
sc 14. skip to second dc on next cup. sc 14.
Second halter tie: sc 1 into the ch space. ch 86, sc into each chain starting in the second ch from the hook. sc 1 into ch space on cup.
sc 14. move to back edge by sc into the next dc base (count 11 dc from the end of row to find the right one). *ch1, skip 1, sc 1* repeat *-* 10 times. Tie off.

Chest tie:
ch 200 (or about 40 cm).

Weave in all the ends and block the top.

Blocking:
Soak the garment in water until the linen fibers are fully saturated (leave it in for at least an hour, or so).
Wash out the garment with a mild detergent. This step is optional, but it's a good time to get rid of any grime from handling during making as well as any surplus dye in the yarn that could otherwise stain your doll.
Rinse the garment thoroughly and gently wring it out.
Handle the garment while it is drying. Shape it, smooth it out and generally move it about. This will "break in" the garment and give it a nice drape.

Thread a small charm onto the chest tie. Locate the center front bar of row 2 of the bodice. Pull the ends of the tie through the spaces beside the center bar, on end on each side, so that the charm is centered on the right side at the center front of the bodice. Weave the rest of the tie through the rest of the spaces.

Enjoy!

 

Let me know how it goes!

 

@Veridia
Thank you so much for taking the time to look the pattern over! I really appreciate it.

For the finished garment it doesn't much matter which side is which, but it does matter during construction. Mainly to make sure the cups both face the same way and to make sure the upper edge is worked in the correct direction (if not, the point between the cups would look wonky). I also find it helpful to ensure that me and the person working from the pattern are looking at the same thing.

But you've got a point it that the row number may be more important.
What do you think about something like this:
R1 (RS):
R2 (WS): etc.

Thank you for pointing this out.
This is an artifact from the pattern making. Those 11 chain stitches is where the sizing of the cup happens, so while developing the pattern, there is no point in recalculating it to include the increase and turning chains, but of course in a finished one size pattern, that extra information can be omitted.

I have seen both terms used. I'll look into it.

This one is interesting. In most patterns I've seen, the comma implies that the following stitch is worked in the following stitch. In this case all the six stitches are worked in one spot and that is why I used the plus sign. If it's not too much trouble, could you give an example of how you would write it out instead?

I did this for consistency. All the other rows are given a number, after all. It keeps it clearer for all those that use counters to keep track of where they are in the pattern.

This is another artifact from the pattern making. Thank you for spotting it.

Thank you again for your valuable input!

 

@JennyM Thank you so much for testing the pattern!
Fiona looks fabulous. What a perfect outfit for the top to be part of.

 

I've updated the OP with a new version of the pattern. Big thanks again to @Veridia and @JennyM for valuable feedback and proof reading.

About alternative yarns, I've managed to get gauge using three strands of embroidery floss. It's an easily available option and comes in just about any color you can imagine. It is on the expensive side, though.
About four strands of regular polyester sewing thread can work as well.
And I can confirm that 16/2 cotton works, as JennyM suggested.

The drape and behavior of the garment may vary a bit depending on what you use, but for the sake of fit you can use anything that gives the correct gauge. Feel free to experiment.
Note, however, that you need to adapt the blocking method to work with your fiber.