~~ Floating Head Stand and Display, a D.I.Y project ~~

So I couldn’t take it anymore. I have too many floating heads and trying to store them was becoming a problem. I was worried that, one: I’d forget and not switch them out and never see some of them; two: the face-ups would get scratched; and three: that the resin would not “age” or “yellow” at the same rate as the other heads or the fewer bodies.

So I thought, “Why not just display the heads themselves”. I admit that it might look a little creepy, a row of dismembered doll parts (heads specifically), but since I can live with it who cares.

I looked and found a few busts. The $30 a piece was too high (much less $50+) and I didn’t want to deal with clothing the busts (a shirt) or having the resins not match.
A few examples (if I can find them): found a store example; not mine and I have nothing to do with the owner. I just didn't want to hotlink the photo to here. Will replace as soon as I can. Both are from company LikeMey. I am looking for more examples; I know I've seen them. [updated 17/09] Luts now sells SD and MSD busts in male and female and they are still too expensive.

http://www.featherfall.ca/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=195 http://translate.google.com/transla...snum=1&ct=result&prev=/search?q=likemey&hl=en

http://eluts.com/frontstore/item/item_zoom.asp?mart_id=lutsdoll&item_flag=1&item_num=5461
http://eluts.com/frontstore/item/item_zoom.asp?mart_id=lutsdoll&item_num=5464&catalog_num=718

Luts even sold a cloth doll body to attach a head to. This seems like a cool idea, but again I don't want to dress another doll. Link here http://doll.luts.co.kr/item-img/DFG_002.jpg.


So I’m going to D.I.Y. some stands and thought that you all might be interested in the same thing. So this here is a tutorial as I try to create a stand. Warning: I will list my frustrations on doing this as this continues.

This is what it might end up looking like with a doll head. I have msd and sd sized heads. We’ll see what works. Photo is of a head balanced on a finial, not a thing has been done, but it'll give you an idea of what I'm aiming for.




Material List (what I really used):
- Finial or base/main part of stand. Check out candle sticks, small turned chair legs, etc. for other options.
- Metal washers, plastic/nylon washers. Kips if you really can spare them or need them.
- Screw eyes: size #14 and #12. The smaller the number the larger they are.
- Hanger Bolt (a double sided/threaded bolt/screw) size: #8-32 x 1-1/2". The 1-1/2" is the length; there were two lengths but this one seemed the best. This bolt has threads on one side that look like a regular screw for wood and a bolt-like threading on the other side so a nut can be used. Don't know what they are really used for, they were in the isle with the drawer pulls and stuff in the hardware store. They are a find and I am very happy I lucked across them.
- Nuts for the Hanger bolts: must fit so the part before the "x" is the size and needs to match. I picked up wing nuts and those hexagonal shaped nuts (machine screw nuts) to try out (both in #8-32 size). Which ever is easiest to fit into the head and for me to turn with my fingers.
- Elastic bands/rubber bands (if the head is secured by hooking the head cap to the doll’s elastic stringing.
- Paint or stain (an option)
- Felt for the bottom (an option)
- Doll head with eyes and a wig. Can't have the poor dear naked can I?




What I am working with:
I have a number of heads with different size neck openings and shapes, so I’ll try to show you how I modified my stands to fit them. You will have to do some brainstorming to get it to work.
Examples of my dolls (Fairyland MNF, DZ MSD, MigiDoll SD, Lati Red a SD, old CP/Luts Kid Delf with and without neck adapter):






Main part: a finial from A.C. Moore for less than $1. Oppies: apparently the one I purchased was mistagged. They are under $4 ($3.6?) a piece, still cheaper than $30.


Paint it or stain it the color you want. If you are going to stain it, you should lacquer it (polyurethane).
Don’t forget the head will be rubbing against it and may transfer the color to the neck cup (a plastic washer or a kips between the two can limit the transfer). Also you might want to sand it for a smooth finish. Look at basic wood working or furniture finishing sites for tips: gesso, paint, wood filler, etc might be needed if you want a very smooth finish.

You may have to weigh the base down (depends on size and weight of head). My choice has an indention on the bottom; so I can glue large 1.25”/3.4cm metal washers to increase weight of base. I could also screw or glue it to another piece of wood to weigh it down, this might be necessary for SD sized heads with this size finial.


I took the "base" with me to the hardware store to find the perfect fit.


Drill pilot holes: remember that the hole should be smaller than the screw that you are using. The screw needs something to grab onto. If you make a mistake, you can use a filler, super glue or epoxy to "hold" it in the stand. Also try not to drill to far down, but this is not as important as the drill bit size rule.
NO PICTURE FOR THIS.


Screw in the screws... almost done.
I've used the following (picture left to right): #8-32 x 1-1/2" hanger bolt (this will use a wing nut or a screw nut; just remember that the nut must match the screw, so I have #8-32 wing nuts and #8-32 machine screw nuts/hexagonal shape nuts); from left to right #14 and #12 screw eyes.

 

Here's a shot of my msd Dollzone Hid just sitting on the stand. The #12 screw eye fits in the slot perfectly. I may not secure it further. If I do need to, I could use a cotter type pin or piece of dowl. If the the shank or shaft of the screw was longer I could have left it stick up more and used the rounded screw top the same way I use the S hooks in my doll (how the elastic sits in the S hook in the head in my dolls).



which looks better? I need to only used one. lol


Here is the hanger bolt with wing nut version. USE WASHERS TO PROTECT THE RESIN on BOTH SIDES. There are threads that can and will scratch and the nut may add presure and scratch/crack the hole. I may even add something around the threads that are between the washers as a safety measure, but it probably isn't necessary. Also DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.

MigiDoll Ryu, a SD size head on the stand with nylon washers. Nylon is "hard" with minor give.

 

So here's the ending. lol


Look at the bottom of this project and if you think it will scratch furniture, glue felt to the bottom. An alternative is to use self adhesive felt (craft stores) or those round, felt, furniture savers.



Attach the head to the stand. Place head cap and wig on. Picture are (left to right) msd: DollZone Hid, SD: MigiDoll Ryu





What it really cost me:
$3.6? for each finial (don't remember but it was just under $4, except for one that I got for less than a $1)
$0.19 for each large metal washer used as a weight under the base.
$0.98 each bag of screw eyes (8 pieces in each bag. I picked up two sizes)
$0.98 each bag of nuts (wing nuts has 6 pieces in a bag and the screw nuts had 12 pieces in a bag)
$0.69-0.98 for a bag of hanger bolts (there were only 4 bolts in a bag), can't remember how much and I can't make heads nor tails of the receipt.
$0.60 for a bag of nylon flat washers (bag of 3).

I didn't count the paint (already had it on hand), drill bits, kips, felt, etc as I have lots o'stuff.


All pictures relating to this project are in my flickr set here http://www.flickr.com/photos/27858122@N02/sets/72157621785289322/


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The next project is a way to display my Fairyland Littlefee faceplates. I’m thinking a thick frame from Ikea; the Ribba. Link Just have to figure out how to get them to attach without using glue or tape.

If I start it, link will be here.

[update] I've figured it out, kinda. I now have parts and a faceplate without paint so I'll work on the design while I finish the finial version. Yeh for wood dowels and cord connector nails and drawer tabs.

 

I'm planning on putting cup hooks in the top (screw in type)... just need to get good photos done.
[edited]
The cup hooks can work if using elastic for the non magnetized head caps, but I like the eyes or screw eyes better. So I now have a package of cup hooks to add to the hardware stuff box.

 

I have pictures... and they are almost done.

Sorry about the wait, life has been odd recently.

If you make your own PLEASE SHARE PICTURES. Also share any info on problem solving that you might have had to deal with.

 

I picked up a few finials on clearance from Bed, BAth and Beyond... so I'll have a few more variations to show ya all in the next week.

I also have started on the littlfee faceplate display... I have the frame, a bamboo kitchen drawer thingy, coax cable mounting clips, wooden dowel. I need (possibly) black fabric (or other background fabric), plexi (if I want a cover for the drawer thingy), and a hanger. Not sure yet.

 

the project for littlfee faceplates is in the planning stages.
I have gone through my stash o'stuff and think I have stuff that will work. Just need to create a mock up of one and then a painting I will go. and drilling. and sawing or cutting, not sure which tool would be better. And I may want a material background.... hmmmm too many options.

the coax clips have may, will?, replaced by cable clips. I mean cable clamps.

now to figure out how to cast off a sock off of needles. need referance book.

 

I would love to see them, please share photos when you have time.

 

If any one has made any, please post your versions and share any tips or ideas (modifications or other variations).