FAQ: Apoxie Sculpt and other epoxy putties for additive modifications and repairs

Bump for this thread and...

I just modded my Seth with new ears using Loctite Epoxy Putty from Walmart. The only thing I complain about with it is that it dries in 5 minutes, so you must hurry to get whatever it is your doing done quickly! I don't think I did too badly for my first attempt at a mod job.
Pic of Seth here...
http://snapesimp.deviantart.com/art/Seth-s-Modded-New-Ears-119045134

 

i've almost finished doing James's ears:
http://daysi-wolf.deviantart.com/art/James-and-his-New-Ears-119468281

i've found Aves Apoxy is very good at adhering to every possible surface and it can be sanded to a very smooth, spotless surface. it does tend to get stuck under the fingernails and even in the tiny lines of my skin though

it seems to be quite solid but i'm concerned about it being brittle. has anyone found it to have any brittle-ness?

 

prettyhatemachine: i used aves apoxy for two of my boys elf ear mods. I did a few tests with it first to see how close i could get the colors and how it was to work with and such. From my experiments with it (which included a pointy 'ear' stuck on the cap of a snapple bottle XD ) i found that i couldnt break it if i tried--and i tried! I tried to pull it off, and break it off. Though, come to think of it, i didnt try smashing it. ^^; It didnt seem brittle at all, just very very sturdy and solid =]

My first ear mods, using aves apoxie white, colored with acrylic paints ^^

Serien's ears
And not the best pic, but Karu'in's ears

 

Torren, that's a relief. i reinforced mine with wire anyway but that was mostly because i found that the apoxy was really floppy when i was trying to sculpt with it. i'm just concerned that if i drop them, they may end up smashing or something

did you sand yours afterwards? i found that my fingers left the ears covered in fingerprints. i also tried mixing acrylic paint with the apoxy but it didn't make any difference.

 

This thread has been extremely helpful since a doll I just received had a noticable nick on one of her fingers and although I'm very familar with polymer clay, it didn't seem to be a good solution (baking and all). I've especially appreciated the info on how to color the sculpting media.

 

I have a very basic question that may seem rather stupid, but I'm completely new to this so here goes:

Do you sculpt on top of the actual resin?
Say, I'd like to close the eyes on one of my dolls. Do I simply smudge it onto the area wait for it to dry and voila - finished!
Or do I have to work on the shape separately, let it dry and then glue it onto the head?
What's the actual process head modifications like this?
Ears, eyes, nose.. is it all the same process?

Any help would be kindly appreciated (:
Thanks in advance!

 

i've found that it's easier with larger things like antlers, tails, horns etc. to sculpt them first then attach afterwards, but small things like ears and eyes etc. you just sculpt right onto the head. as long as it has been cleaned first, then yes, you just put it right on and away you go

that's just how i do it anyway. i'm sure everyone has their own different technique.

 

I used extra fine white milliput for my Bailey's eye mod. I tried to mix acrylic paint first with it, which didn't seem to work at all, and was very messy. So I did the mod, and then blushed with wet pastel after, and as he is NS it worked very well. I haven't removed his face up yet, so not sure how it will be if I ever do:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v57/michpowell/Bailey/h1a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v57/michpowell/Bailey/m2a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v57/michpowell/Bailey/dollflower1copy.jpg

 

Thanks for those photos. I've been considering modding a doll's eyes, but wasn't too sure about blending the addition back into the skin tone, so your explanation and the pictures really help me to plan how I might go about the whole project.

 

---

 

Hi guys,

I´d like to enlarge the breasts of one of my 60cm. girls, do you think that Aves Studio Apoxie could be a good option for that work?.

 

I saw Dollmore sale Dollmore epoxy putty. how about this putty? will it work for modification?
http://www.dollmore.net/shop/step1.php?number=6696

if any one use this putty, please tell me about it. > <

 

Never knew they had one, looks like it might be more skin-toned? For $6 I will get some next time I order from them.

 

mmm that skin tone epoxy looks cool but what can you really do with just a 100 grams?

 

hyokito, I used Dollmore epoxy. And I'd say: use Apoxie better. Dollmore epoxy has dirty yellow-grayish tone and it's rather dark (darker than Soom NS). So I'd recommend it only for modifications that would be totally painted over.

 

I'm placing an order with Leekeworld soon for some wigs, and I need some apoxy to build up a missing ridge at the back of my Soom Amber's knee. Mr Putty (Strong) is out of stock, but they have Mr Putty (Light). Would a small ridge made of this stand up as a knee locking mechanism or would it break/chip as you flexed the knee?

 

Damasquerade, I am not sure any putty would hold in the long term since it wouldn't be bonded to the resin the same way that a piece that is actually part of the resin would be. Repeated stress of holding the knee in place would most likely mean the area you built up will slip or chip off after a while.

 

Curses... That's what I suspected. I just don't know how else to improve this defect that's preventing her from standing though. If the epoxy chipped away, would it take away any resin along with it or damage it, do you reckon?

 

An incredibly helpful thread! Now, does anyone know of an epoxy compound that cures translucent? I know some epoxy adhesives do, but I think the consistency of an adhesive would be too liquid to sculpt with.

 

I feel that a good thing to add to sculpting compounds for tinting - especially epoxy - would be a touch of powdered pigment, as it is dry & inert, & doesn't interfere with the chemistry of the compound. Just a little suggestion (Dick Blick Art Supplies carries any color you can think of to hand-blend paints).

Pounding my brain at the mo for something translucent - there is translucent Fimo which needs baking at 265* Farenheit (that is 130* Celsius). I'm not familiar with the properties of resin as far as heat goes, so if someone else knows if that would work, please be sure to advise! (Oh - one other thing, the Fimo is resin-based clay so it would be fused well if it were bakeable.)

 

Thanks a lot! I'll definitely look into Fimo.

 

I've used translucent Fimo for a few things, and it doesn't really cure that translucent in my opinion.

 

I've used it - it's not solid like the white is. It looks a lot like alabaster or marble.

 

I was looking where to buy some Apoxie sculpt and came across a handy tip--" I love this wonderful product and I still intend to use it, even though my skin is sensitive to it. I cover my hands with a layer of petroleum jelly, because gloves don't work for me, and I wash my hands super thoroughly after working with it. " (Click quote for the ebay link I found the info from). The tip is actually for Magic sculpt, but maybe it would work for other clay sculpts?

 

My only experience with apoxie was in my ceramics class. I had to use it to bond a broken piece together. It smelled and it looked funny and my art teacher treated it like it was an a-bomb in liquid form.

Yet...I hear of dolly people using it to make mods and so on.

How?

 

Apoxie kind of works as a super-hard clay. It can be used to bond things together, and it can be used to sculpt additions to the doll. In my case, I used it to add claws and elongated ears to one of my dolls.

I used the Aves brand Super White apoxie, and it was a bit tricky to get used to. It was sticky in the beginning, almost like working with cold sticky-tack. But as I worked with it more it became more solid, and easier to work with, until it was more like silly putty...and in the end, it dried up and became nearly as hard as resin (if not harder!).

 

I'm not sure if I'd use it on my bjd, but do you think it would work on something like...oh...a baby doll?

 

The stuff you used in pottery class to bond broken pieces together was most likely epoxy glue- a two-part glue that isn't glue until it's mixed together.

Epoxy putty is similar, two parts that only harden after they've been mixed together.
Apoxie is a brand of epoxy putty.

Baby Doll? I suppose it would depend on what kind of material your baby doll is made out of.
If you google 'Aves Apoxie Sculpt' you should get their webpage. Go to their 'User Galleries' section, then 'Doll Making'. There are all kinds of examples of Apoxie Sculpt being used to fix and 'enhance' different kinds of dolls. If you have any doubts, e-mail them, they're really very friendly and happy to answer any questions you might have.

 

Use the search function to look up Epoxy. You will find lots of discussions on the use of Epoxy for mods and how they are done.

Good luck!

 

Lilhorn I felt the same way, the only type I had ever used prior was the glue your talking about, in a 2 chamber syringe. In my research I've found there to be two different 'types' or forms of epoxie, clay and putty, both have amazing uses here in the doll community. I've also found lots of those that work with it on this form to be exceedingly helpful if you ask!

 

EDIT: I posted this before I read through all of the thread and found my answer!

This thread is bookmarked. Thanks for all the helpful advices! So, if I understand correctly milliput apoxy should be probably used for smaller mods (less time to dry and smaller quantity, plus more expensive) and the apoxie sculpt that dries in 2-3 hours and you can get in big quantities, should be used for larger mods? Such as a tail?

Can these two epoxies be mixed or used together?

 

I just found this while I was looking for a cheaper alternative to Miliput for a new mod job, and thought I would give it a go, I will update here when it arrives and I have tested it, however it looks like a great product. it was only released this year, however, so no real reviews yet. For 1/4 lb it only cost me $6, which is significantly better than Miliput prices

 

Ijust tried out the Amazing sculpt and it is the best thing I have ever used. The mixed consistency is wonderful, not saggy or droopy like things like Miliput are when first mixed, it stands up well, like clay. It holds fine detailed shapes well, is easy to carve, you can alter the setting time and ti smooths really well, and you can actually buy a smoothing compound for it really cheaply. The downside is it can make your skin hyper sensitive so wearing gloves is a good idea. The upsides are it handles well, tools really well, is ultra fine, cures totally in 24 hours, cures basically in 4 hours, and you can affect the curing time with the application of hot or cold, I LOVE this stuff, and it is rather cheap compared to a lot of other compounds

 

I just bought a new 4lb kit of Apoxie, so I'll be using that up before I get anything else, but Amazing Sculpt does sound pretty amazing, especially for the price and I would love to try it out, especially if I can source it locally. Although I guess with the lower price, even getting it shipped from the US would still come out cheaper than buying Apoxie from one of the AU suppliers.

 

My head is swirling from all the great information I just read in this thread!

I have a question though; if I plan on dying a doll, should I do the sculpting after dying and match up the colour on the sculpt with paint, or could I dye doll and add-ons all at once? Dying everything together sure would save time (especially because I suck at mixing colours), but I would imagine the putty would absorb the dye differently?

 

Personally I mod then dye, but you need to remember that dye takes differently to the mod medium than it does to resin, so you will need to blush or airbrush to match them anyway

 

I don't know if this has been asked already (I looked through the first 4 pages), but what's the best epoxy putty to use in the UK (if anyone knows)? I found out that miliput exists here, but I couldn't find any of the other ones.

~*Mystaia

 

SO I've been looking for a slightly more accessible epoxy. I work at a Home Depot so I went to the Paint Department and asked about what sort of polyurethane epoxies they had, and explained that I needed it to be workable, almost like a clay, so I could add on to a polyurethane resin. There was a nice paint company representative who just happened to be restocking nearby brought me over to Bondo All Purpose Putty. He said it dried white and was workable for about an hour or two. It comes in a large round metal container.

After more questions he told me it dried hard, it wasn't rubbery, it was hard like a fiberglass-like plastic when it dried and you could sand or paint it as well to look like what was around it. It was an epoxy, meaning you mixed the two parts together to trigger it hardening rather than air drying. He also said it would almost definitely stick to the polyurethane resin I'd been describing.

Came home, looked it up on Wikipedia before buying and from the description it sounds like it does what I need it to do.

Anyone else have any experience with this stuff? It looks like it holds pretty hardcore... used for everything from modding computer cases to repairing car parts (which is what polyurethane is also often used in) and even to patching Nascar potholes.

It would be so wonderful to find a nice affordable (it's about $15 I think) easy to get epoxy. Even if I get no feedback I might just give it a try and hope for the best.

Link to the Wiki article I found on it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bondo_(putty)

And I don't want to link to other forums but I've been seeing people using it to repair pretty much everything in every kind of shape (reparing a cracked guitar and shaping a cosplayer's rocket launcher were the two most impressive)

 

BONDO is well known in car circles for making repairs with. You can sand it glassy smooth and it is very strong.

However I do have a couple of caveats.

It is VERY toxic when curing. Everyone I know that uses it does so in an EXTREMELY well ventilated area. Like, a garage with all the doors open and fans blowing.

I have no idea what it would do to doll resin, and probably the rep doesn't either. BONDO is generally used on fiberglas or metal. I'd try a teeny little patch inside a headcap or on a sacrificial piece first.

 

Hmm... will do. I'm going to be wearing a mask and sitting outside while working (same as should be done when sanding since polyurethane is not good to breathe in) so I should be alright with the toxic bit.

Since it seems to be uncharted waters I'm going to first try just molding a piece just to see, possibly attempting to color it with pastels to match the dolls skin, then I'll try a piece on the doll in side the head cap just to see how the resin reacts. Then if all goes well I'll do the deed.

Wish me luck. I'll probably try it sometime this week or next week.

 

Well unlike MSC, epoxy putties can be mail ordered and shipped via air. So you can internet order Apoxie, or some of that marvelous new stuff, Amazing Sculpt from www.sculptingstudio.com

 

I don't think this material sounds ideal, but if you're going to give it a go anyway, wear both gloves and a mask (or pref. a respirator). Don't forget, you probably have to buy the hardner separately and mix it in as needed.

Auto body filler is more like a goop than a clay, and it's intended to be scraped over surfaces to even them out, and then be sanded flat. $15 isn't that cheap if it turns out to be a material that you can't use for what you want it for. You haven't actually specified what you're trying to do to your doll, but I would have to say that Apoxie Sculpt (and Amazing Sculpt, although I haven't tried it yet) are probably safer bets for adding and sculpting onto a doll, as it's more firm and has a longer curing time.

 

Well, it's not the auto Bondo, it's the all purpose. They had auto bondo there was well. This is called a putty and from what I've seen it works similar to a soft clay. People have used it for creating cosplay props as well. And found out today it's $10. Might even use it for a good amount of other things as well if it turns out to be a durable material.

See? Terminator skull gets eeevil eyebrows. Not the best job I've seen out there, but this guy was pretty much sticking it on with the mentality that it would get covered with tin foil.


I have used epoxy which I've bought online but it was much more expensive than this, had shipping, and it was pretty much only enough to make two elf ears. It also didn't do well being colored with pastels, and while bondo might not either it's worth a shot in my mind, especially since I don't have the money to get a whole airbrushing set-up just for two little ears. And yeah, I'm only doing ear mods again anyways, but I'd like something I could use for more future projects, even those not BJD related. I mean, it's some useful stuff from the things I've seen.... can make molds with it too. Been wanting to try that.

Thought I mentioned my plans for it up there but must not have. Bleh. I'm going to be trying to do gauged earring mods. Saw someone else do it using a grommet but I want to try and find something to be those pretty glass ones. That's my quest after bondo experimentation time tomorrow... and I've got my latex gloves and fume mask all set to go. XD

 

I want to sculpt some ears and horns can I use polymer clay? its in the same section as the sculpy clay

 

"Sculpy" is just a brand name. "Polymer clay" is the generic term for what it is. All polymer clays are soft until cured by heat (mostly in an oven - DON'T use anything you later plan on cooking food in! ) unless the package specifically says "Air dry" or "air curing", or something like that.

If you plan on using heat-cured clay, best to do some research first on its special requirements and techniques!

 

Hello, I hope here is the right place to post a question and really hope somebody answers.
I want to mod the eyes of my doll (make them smaller as I largened them too much) and put some epoxy putty white Tamiya quick type. The colour matches perfectly as it seems for now but although 10 hours have passed the putty has not still dried. I am starting to be nervous as I wonder if it will stay that way or needs more time to dry. Is it wrong that I did not mix it with the other colour?
Can anybody answer how long epoxy putty needs to be completed dry or if you use only the white bar it will not dry at all?
Thanks in advance.

 

If you are using a 2 part epoxie it will not cure unless it is mixed with the other part. It is a chemical reaction between the partA & partB that causes it to cure. If you do not mix them together they will never cure.

 

Okay, so if I'm getting this right... the apoxy is awesome for additions to the resin... but what about making entirely new parts, such as an arm? Is there anything else you could use? Would normal sculpy and other clays work, or would you recommend something else?

 

what about ladoll putty? I saw some on the Dollmore site and Hobby Lobby's site and was wondering if it's good to use?

 

Hi,
I'm considering buying Apoxie sculpt, Milliput or Amazing Sculp.
I'd like to ask some questions to see which one would be best for me to use. What I like to do is sculpt little feathers to put on a dolls face.

- Sturdiest?
- Hold tiny details best? ( I would like to sculp the tiny details of the feathers on them.)
- Wont damage the head so that I can just remove them if I want.
- Will I have to sculpt the feathers directly on the face or can I just sculpt them first and then put on the face ( when it's not dry yet)

Colour is not an issue here because I intend to blush the side of his face that has the feathers on grey and then add some blues and reds to the feathers.

Also, can you sculpt scars with any of them, because he also has a scar on the outer corner of his right eye as if it has been cut open and sewn close again and if I can use it for scars as well I can add the little pieces of tread to it when it's still wet.

 

cant be much help on which is best as I have only used milliput

but most if not all epoxy clays will be hard to remove, so if removability is important then it might be worth sculpting them separately, or covering the head in cling film or similar so it doesn't cure on the resin and then glueing them on after they have fully cured

 

It's not that important, I don't mind if it's hard to remove, just removable

 

of the ones you have listed I am all about amazing sculpt, I love that stuff, if you want a longer working time I like Miliput, I hate waiting for the 4 hour curing period though. All are equally hard to remove once dry, but sanding will do it, and all are easily sculpted and coloured, but amazing sculpt was specifically formulated to take fine details and has a good texture, is very strong and has a fast cure time

 

I have to modify the knees of my Heliot parts to be big enough to fit the calfs of hes RS body, what do people recomend? I'll be adding aproximatly 1/4 to 1/2 inch of whatever.

 

Okay that sounds weird.. let me explain

Clay is wonderful, easy to shape, paint, but when it falls it breaks. It's SO fragile.
When you drop plastic it is more likely to just bounce or if it's more fragile have a scratch.

The point being, I'm looking for something as easy to work with as Clay, but that won't break when it falls off e.g. a desk.

Thanks in advance

 

You could always sculpt what you want in clay, then use plaster/silicone to make a mold and then a home resin kit to make a resin/plastic version.

 

Ah that sounds like a lot of trouble x_X

I can't imagine making plastic/silicone myself or something of that material, I'd much rather just have a solid shapable material that'll turn hard after either drying or baking... though I'm not sure if what I'm looking for even exists..

Thanks anyways

 

Sounds to me like you're looking for epoxy putties that are artist grade. They are 2 part putties. Following the directions for the specific brand you get, you mix the 2 parts together. This causes a chemical reaction that will cause them to harden on their own. The reason you want artist grade is that they take MUCH longer to 'cure' into a hard state. 'Around the house' use epoxy putties often cure in as little as 5 minutes. Aves Apoxy Sculpt is popular with modders (though these putties are often used in this hobby to mod dolls, they can ALSO be used for just sculpting, of you can work with them in their 'workable' time, before they get too hard). Personally, I like Amazing Sculpt. Milliput is also a good brand, or so I've read here in the modding subforums. Most of these are purchased online, unless you are lucky enough to have a local shop that carries them.

Research them, and see what you think.

Some tips: if the putty is too sticky when first mixed (amazing sculpt is...not sure about the others) let it sit for 10-20 minutes so that it will cure JUST enough to be more like clay, and less sticky. Remember that whatever you make from them can be sanded smooth when you're finished, if you want, so you don't have to get what you are making PERFECTLY smooth while sculpting. Temperature, and sometimes humidity, can affect how long it takes the putties to dry, so keep an eye on them when working with them, and try not to have to walk away from a project for more than a couple of minutes.

 

Seconding Aves Apoxy...it will break if you try to bounch it like a rubberball tough...

 

What exactly are you planning to do with it? it's just that talking about making dolls from scratch is off topic for DoA

Epoxy Putty is an excellent substitute for resin - although anything can break if you drop it from a high enough point Make sure it's a solid putty - I know you can buy epoxies that are two liquids that you mix together; that'd be like slip (and hard to work with XD ).