Hello! I've decided to order Dollzone's new 1/4 snake boy (denverdoll link), but I'm deliberating on color options for the tail. I want to do the body blushing myself, but I'm not sure on how difficult it would be to shift the tail resin color a bit away from the rest of the body in addition to other. I'm also thinking of going with moon white, which I'm not as sure on how it might suck up dye, as that's the other option I could see making sense if I decide to try for a scale color that's farther away from greyish white. I've only done body blushing on more "standard" bodies, so I was wondering if people who've done things on fantasy (esp. snake) bodies have any input on this kind of thing. I think it could also end up being moot as it's possible I'll just really like the creamy pale snake tail, but trying to consider all my options here.
If you want the tail a different colour, you could always dye it—it’s going to be a lot faster and longer lasting than blushing it with pastels, which would be very time consuming for multiple layers on all of those parts—I have DZ’s White Snake, which I think uses the same tail and it’s loooooong
@Chameleon True! I'm just not sure how moon white would dye, since it's more of a grey, so kind of trying to hedge my bets here. I wish I could get the tail blushing without the body blushing, tbh. My girlfriend does have an airbrush setup as well, so that might be an option if I want to figure out how to customize the tail that way as well.
I have a doll in moon white, it’s a very light grey, so if you wanted a colour that was dark or vivid, you would probably not have any trouble—if you wanted pastel shades they’d come out tinged by the grey, but it’s a grey so close to white that it wouldn’t affect vivid/dark colours overmuch! The airbrush is also a good idea—it means less layering than you’d have with pastels, but still some risk of chipping at the joints like you’d have with any paint job—honestly, I’ve yet to have it happen, but if joints are tight, even dye can chip, if the resin scratches deep enough—I don’t think they string the tail that tight—they rely on wiring to improve its posing. I’d also suggest discretely numbering the tail segments when you take them apart because I’d imagine they’d be a nightmare to put back together without some kind of guide.
I've dyed a doll body before, and one thing that I think really helped me in my process was my prep and my process. I washed all the pieces I was dying in hot water and dawn dish soap. Gave them a good soak and a scrub with a sponge/super soft tooth brush (and I mean soft!!!) I wanted no chance of any mold release still being on my doll. I also made sure everything was threaded onto long loops of yarn, so nothing would get lost in the dye pot. I had a pot of luke warm water next to the dye bath and my phone ready for setting timers. I had towels everywhere I dipped pieces in for 5 seconds at a time until I found what time got the color result I wanted. The yarn loops helped me keep pieces moving in the water so nothing rested on the bottom of the pot to take dye weird. It was an involved process. Once I hit the color I wanted, pieces went into the bowl of water by the dye pot because my kitchen is a nightmare, then to the sink for a quick wash in more dawn soap and dried in one of my ratty old towels and checked if the color was what I wanted dried. If not back in the soup they went. and I completed body blushing with pastels. I also masked some areas with woodglue, this was way easier to remove fresh out of the post dyebath wash when the water was still hot. so if you wanted to do like white belly scales that's a thought or snake patterns.
@Chameleon @ChriKei Thank you both for the input!! I will probably end up not doing colored tail resin, then. I think it could be a fun (if involved) project if I decide to dye the tail. Very good tips about numbering pieces and the dyeing process. I appreciate it and feel somewhat reassured now.