Dyeing Dyeing modded doll

You need Dyemore for Synthetic, as resin is a plastic. Will the arms be attached at the back/sides? Adding them 'only' removes resin from the point where they join the chest piece, which means that the modded area will be hidden by the shoulder joint of the upper arm - so dyeing shouldn't really be a problem.

Dyeing is really not that scary. Take your doll apart, clean it with water, dip the parts in the simmering/nearly boiling water/dye mix. I'd recommend doing connecting parts together, to make sure the color is the same (upper arm + lower arm, for example). To be honest, you really can't do much wrong with light blue. Kentucky Sky is not strong at all, so you'll have lots of time to make sure the parts are all evenly dyed. Remember - thicker parts can take a bit longer than thinner parts (upper legs vs hands, for example). But again, with light blue that shouldn't be a problem.

 

I’ll also add, do your best to avoid sanding much more than you need to to complete the mod—anywhere sanded on the body will take dye differently than unsanded resin will. It sounds like, for this mod, you’re just putting in a second set of harm holes, so the sockets will dye darker, but they’ll be hidden by the arms themselves.

if there was a large amount of unavoidable sanding (like if you were sanding a chest smaller or something to that effect) I’d advise you to sand all of the parts with the same grits of sandpaper you use on the modded parts, because that would make it the least-uneven, but there will still be small crevices that don’t get sanded as much, and end up lighter, so there will inevitably be unevenness. It would be better to avoid all-over sanding if it’s not 100% necessary.

If there’s any additive modding creating the sockets for arms, the apoxie or milliput that you use to build those sockets will most likely dye darker than the resin does because it’s a tad more porous. I actually got incredibly lucky dyeing over “white” apoxie sculpt to a dark red (it’s actually grey!)—it came put a similar shade of red as her (unsanded resin) torso. Milliput I know takes a lot more dye a lot faster, so it would come out darker.

 

I've seen a six-armed doll where the extra arms are attached to a kind of back-piece which in turn is attached around the throat. You might want to try that; build the backpiece from epoxy and hang your arms off that.
The throat part is sculpted to look like a fancy choker necklace.

Then there was Junia, where her arms were sculpted into her back

/threads/souldoll-junia-v-spider-queen-human-ver-coming-soon.757110/

 

She may have advised a darker shade of blue because the all-purpose won't take as well on a synthetic as the specifically formulated synthetic dyes will. If I were you, I'd sticl to using the synthetic dyes, then you can go for a colour that's close to what you're aiming for and not have to worry about it coming out too dark, or not taking as well on resin. But, of course, that's entirely up to you.

There is no one-right-way, I'm afraid

I have used Royal Blue all purpose on a whiteskinned doll, but was aiming ofr Royal Blue results, and did get that, but it was a very small doll, and I had to redye the head several times as the blue came off very eaislu when I was wiping faceups (it's hard to get anything to show up on a royal blue face!!)


Teddy

 

Do not bathe resin in acetone for 10 minutes—that’s probably going to destroy the body to get the dye out (source: ask me about my damaged head). To get dye out, submerge the part in a jar of acetone, and shake. You’ll literally watch the shaking pull the colour out. It takes under 2 minutes per part for sure.

 

No problem! I got the idea from Arkelle on instagram, who does a Ton of dyeing. The reason it seems to have been “safe” this far is that the acetone only permeates the very surface of the resin, and the agitation is gentler that scrubbing with an abrasive like a magic eraser. The relative safety is the short exposure, and the lack of scraping while the resin is exposed to the acetone.

Safe is in air quotes because acetone is always some extent of risky to use. Some resins may be more sensitive to it, longer exposures and combining acetone and scrubbing make it riskier (again, I’ve done a long exposure and scrubbing and permanently damaged resin in a big way!) but acetone is never strictly safe, it’s only possible to minimize the extent of risk. It’s kinda like using fire in crafting—there are safer and more dangerous ways to use it, but there’s always at least a small chance something gets burned that wasn’t supposed to get burned.

My harm-reduction tip? Get a spare part you don’t care about—an off-cut from a mod, a small extra piece you can order from the company, a resin neck donut or something to that effect, and use it to test the colour of your dye bath when you dye—then, if you need to remove the dye, acetone-test that piece first!

 

Instead of an acetone bath, you can also do an acetone free nailpolish remover bath. That takes a bit longer, but its way less agressive.

Top is color after the dye bath (way too dark)
Middle is after scrubbing the part with acetone free nailpolish remover and a magic eraser (took ages)
Bottom is after a 5 minute bath in a small plastic box (plus gentle shaking).

Just buy a LOT of nailpolish remover. You can do multiple parts at once (like, hands together), but you can't reuse the nailpolish remover later on, because the dye pigments will still be in the remover and -can- seep back into the next part you'e going to de-color.

 

Yes, I'd advise using a lighter shade of dye, and leavign the parts in for a shorter time - if necessary dip for a short time, take it out and chekc it and re-dip until you get the shade/intensity of colour you want. With my blue one I dipped the head cap, timing it each time, until I got the right intensity, then dipped the rest of the pieces for the total length of time so I only had to dip them once instead of doing all the small increments.

That's a good one

Teddy