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Cx5 sculpting medium

Feb 20, 2014

    1. I just learned about this stuff last night and it sounds really interesting given it's properties and everything you can theoretically do with it. So I was wondering if anyone here has tried it out and what you think about it! Sorry if it's already been discussed, it's pretty hard to search for given the name.

      So cx5 is some sort of meltable plastic I guess? You can melt to different temperatures/hardnesses, cast it, use it like clay, it hardens very quickly and can be remelted and used over again. Sounds a bit like sculpting wax, but I'm really interested in the supposed nontoxic aspect, no offensive odors, and that it hardens so fast and can be retooled so easily with just a bit of heat. Also that it can be polished to a finish surface directly for molding and allows for lots of detail. I'm willing to bet there's quite a learning curve but I'm excited to give it a try anyway.

      info:
      http://www.adambeaneindustries.com/cx5/
       
    2. $25.00 USD per ONE pound bar of CX5 ?
      $540.00 USD per 25 pound box of CX5 ?

      Ask them for a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the CX5.

      I'll stick with my reusable, inexpensive, studio-made carving wax
      and my DIY wax pen and traditional sculpture tools.
      (^_^)
       
    3. I bought a block of it to try. I found it quite difficult to work with as it hardens so quickly, but I didn't persist very much. It may be ok with a heat lamp. I tried to cast with it but it has quite a thick consistency so would not cast as well as my carving wax which is thin when heated. However, it does dry very hard, like plastic and you don't need an armature when working with it. and yes, it is expensive. I think that if you could learn to work with it it would be great as it can be tooled easily.
       
    4. Ive been sculpting in cx5 for quite some time. Its very difficult to sculpt without a waxer pen. Even a cheaper waxer like Giles Precision Wax Pen is wayyy better than sculpting with your tools and heating them over and over.

      I learned that you need constant heat on the cx5 to be able to move material around.
      Adam also mentions that the kerr ultra waxer 2 pen is the way to go because it keeps the heat in the pen at a constant temperature, unlike other waxer pens
      they can heat up but not retain the constant temp to sculpt. If you plan to sculpt in cx5 you're gonna need to invest into the kerr ultra waxer 2. Its not cheap and cx5 is also not cheap.

      I use a DIY waxer pen i made from a wood burner tool with one of those electricity controller thingys. I also use an electric skillet
      to keep the cx5 warm. I have'nt posted anything yet because im still waiting for my other clay to get here. They also sell a cheap waxer pen on ebay for $50
      that looks like something similar to what Adam uses on one of his videos. Just search for something like this : Dental Electric Wax Carving Pen

      Heres a review of the waxer as well:
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZmuKlb_8rY

      p.s. if you overheat the cx5 and you see smoke it does stink!
      this is one of the reasons why a cheaper waxer pen is'nt ideal for sculpting in cx5, because they overheat the clay and it starts to smoke.
       
      #4 GuroDoLL 1, Feb 22, 2014
      Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2014
    5. Thanks for the info glimmer and gurodoll :) So not very good as a casting material, but I think still it's good to have the option of melting down to cast, even if it's thicker than ideal and doesn't perform perfectly. I'm kind of comparing it to sculpey for myself because I really miss the ability to push and pinch the clay into place compared to paper clay and it sort of seems like this stuff may be a bit closer to sculpey while it's warm and maleable. I completely understand that it hardens fast (guess you'd have to learn to sculpt Very fast to use it!), just the reaction of the material is what I'm most interested in.

      Yeah it's kinda pricey compared to other clays, especially since you need to get a bunch of equipment to work it as well. But the biggest value for me is ease of use during sculpting as well as finishing work, and the ability to make changes at any stage, as well as negate later steps necessary with other materials (which you need yet more expensive materials to do). If this material works for my temperament and allows me to skip other irritating and messy steps then it's invaluable and more than makes up for the initial costs.

      I did order a block to try out for some figure sculpting couple days ago but it still hasn't shipped -__-, and I had to go with the cheapest method because it was so expensive to Canada so it'll be a few weeks before I can try it out. In terms of bjds, is it strong enough do you think for parts such as the thin cup joints on a doll to use for a prototype? Is it flexible at all and might to warp with tension like fimo?

      Also thanks for the info about the wax pens gurodoll, something to keep in mind! I'm not surprised that it'll smell if burnt, same thing happens with paperclay and most materials, just got to be careful about the heat then. I'd love to see your work with it if you decide to post any!
       
      #5 crowtree, Feb 22, 2014
      Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2014
    6. crowtree- Well from my experience using cx5 I got it to sculpt faces, i thought it was really cool that i could hold it in my hands and not need
      an armature core and i can have a hollow core as well for bjd making purposes. Its definitely strong enough for making a bjd, however i can't say for sure
      to those who are making 40cm bj's or tinier. I work at about 70cm so you can imagine my bjd sculpture is bigger and thicker.

      It is pretty strong and i have strung it with ball joints and it holds up pretty well. I wouldn't recommend it for thin areas as it will crack or break.
      Ive broken parts off my sculpture with my pliers and it just breaks, no bending. I also noticed that when you add on more hot cx5 clay over cold cx5 it does stick to itself
      but it layers on like cake, so in reality its weaker and more likely to break. You have to heat up both parts and then add them together to get a solid piece.

      So far what i have found it very useful for is making hollow cores for sculpting on top of. Currently I use cx5 for my bjd cores and focus on poseability and engineering, once that's done and im happy, I use either super sculpey or other clays and cover the cx5 material. Then I sculpt on top of that. So
      the cx5 underneath is solid, strong and hollow, while the outside is pliable and ready for sculpting detail and aesthetics. Once im happy with the looks i cast it
      and i can fiddle with it all i want.

      Anyways once i get my hands on the kerr ultra waxer 2 ill be happy to make a review of the cx5. I think what puts most of us off is the fact that you need
      a waxer pen to get sculpting, but for now ill stick to other clays.

      Ill start posting my work when my clay gets here from the mail c:
       
    7. Good to know it's solid without flex, that's actually what I was hoping for if it works for bjds. But I think I'm going to stick with mature minis and below, so maybe it's not ideal for that purpose if it's very brittle. Hmmm. Are you using the new cx5 or the stuff from the kickstarter? I don't know how much of a difference there is but it a slightly different formula I guess. In one of the videos he shows that you can apply warm cx5 to cold to make form fitting pieces which pop apart pretty easily it seemed, this i another aspect I hoped to take advantage of.

      Cool, looking forward to it! Mine FINALLY shipped (not impressed by that), so hopefully it won't take long to arrive too.
       
    8. Im using the new cx5. Adams videos are very helpful too.
      The clay has a different feel depending on the temperature. Its very melty like mud when its hotter and as it cools it feels like normal clay in your hands and
      it works great, the problem is the more it cools it starts to feel like sticky gum and then hard plastic. And it cools very quickly, so its hard to work with it
      like clay. Its great for building up a form very quickly though. I started with a piece and then made a cylinder shape out of it and kept adding
      onto it to make a hollow torso for my bjd. Then with the burning tool I work the clay. The weird thing about it is i haven't figured out how to smooth
      it so its always looking very rough. I used Adams technique of hot sanding and it works to move the clay around but so far the smoothing doesn't happen for me.
      Im guessing it all comes down to technique and Adam has it down! lol

      Definitely give it a shot when your cx5 arrives. Only you will know how useful it is for your projects.
      I got my other clay in the mail ^_^ woot!
       
    9. Ah, sounds like a very finicky material you have to learn to conform to guess ^^; I see some amount of praise coming from professionals in the toy industry so maybe it's easier to get the hang of if you have a lot of experience with a lot of materials to begin with. This is all very interesting, my fingers are itching to give it a try now hehe.

      Yeah I'd imagine Adam formulated it to work best with his own style and technique, it's his baby lol :P

      For smoothing, you've probably tried it already, but he mentions lighter fluid on the tools list for use with the sanding sponge. I haven't watched many of his videos yet so idk how this is used so...
      hope you can figure it out though!
       
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