Curious about finishing techniques

I use a variety of techniques: linings where appropriate, my machine's overcast/overlock stitch (I never remember which is the correct term and the manual just calls it A-11), hand whipping, and handstitched blind hems. For some fabrics only zigzag seems to work, and for pleather, I just fingerpress the seam allowances - the more stitching you do on pleather, the more perforated lines for tearing you leave!

I just finished a prototype MSD bolero in pique where I used bias tape to bind some of the seam allowances - it's too bulky for many applications, but it was perfect for where I used it on this garment.

I have never had a problem with elastic giving out - under what conditions do you see that most often? I use elastic in casual garments where the human equivalent would have elastic, like pull on casual shorts.

Marcia.

 

Depends on where the seam is and whats going to happen with the garment. If its something for myself or one of my dolls - I dont usually care and just leave it unfinished. If its for sale or commission, once again - depends. Human scale I serge. Doll scale... it really depends on the outfit. x_x

 

Well, depending on the item, I'd either line it or just sew however. for example, I've made a kimono and a Vest that are both nice and lined which is really something. However, for things that are just shirts, I would just make the shirt and have a few loose seam allowances, no one is going to complain unless it's itchy for your dollfie. Most of the time I find that as long as the fabric doesn't fray so much, leaving open seams os okay, they son't deteriorate like very fray-y fabrics.

 

It sounds like you might want to fiddle with either the tension or stitch width? I also often zigzag just inside the edge of the seam allowance, then carefully trim to the zigzag.

Wow, I've never seen that - it must be very warm in your attic! I can see why you'd want to case everything you could in those conditions - I generally only sew on elastic in puffed "Alice" dress sleeves and on underwear. I think casing gives a neater look in most cases anyway, but that's personal preference.

Dress bodices and straight skirts are the two types of garments I line routinely. They're not that difficult, and it just gives such a nice, polished look. When I get to work on the coat patterns, they'll also all be lined.

My current favorite lining material is "coupe d' ville" (that's how it's spelled on the end of the bolt) - it's thin like the "silky" linings, but slightly textured so it doesn't shine so much, and it's far more resistant to fraying than most of the "silkies" I've used. It's very thin and somewhat slippery.

You're right, it does add some bulk, and it changes the way garments drape, so lining certainly isn't for everything! But I do like it in more tailored and structured garments.

Marcia.

 

Since my sewing machine is older than I am it tends to eat a good deal of fabrics, so I sew alot of my smaller items by hand. I generally use a good old fashioned backstitch with a doubled thread and that holds quite well - I've used it for plushes, doll clothes and human clothes.

And on an OT note, Marcia you have a Chii doll - I am so jealous! I've seen pics of her online and just think she is the cutest!

 

It's gotten to be a habit to just zigzag everything when I'm done. I love to topstitch, but it's not for everything (sadly). I line jackets and bodice tops and some dresses (anything sleeveless). I can't actually figure out how to make a jacket look nice without lining it.

For my own dolls, I sometimes get lazy when it come to buttons/snaps/ zippers and other closers and use the velcro. I prefer it sometimes for easy dressing and undressing. And I have a few unfinished items that use safety pins. ops:

 

My grandmother always blanket-stitched the raw edges of her seams, using the same thread she used to sew the garment. It's labor-intensive, to put it mildly, but it looks beautiful, doesn't add any bulk, will keep any fabric from fraying, and will stand up to machine-washing.

Personally, for my BJD clothes I usually just pink the seams. Since the garment doesn't get washed that often, and when I do wash it I wash it by hand, it's adequate. I wouldn't trust that on fabrics that fray very easily, though.

 

Aw, gee ops: thanks :-). I put together that tutorial so true beginners could have something for their dolls to wear - and it's never too early to get in the habit of thinking about finishes!

I consider the iron to be perhaps more important than a sewing machine for getting good results! When I finally sat down and learned to press carefully, I was so much happier with my work.

I'd like to see it! I've seen some very nice shirts done with ties and lacings, and always enjoy seeing other people's visions.

Thanks! I love her to pieces, and she's SO patient - I've had her over a year and she really only has the one outfit, yet she never complains, she knows I've got plans for her, I just always seem to be short of time! (And it doesn't help that her outfits from the art book are so elaborate! But so beautiful!)

Marcia.