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Crochet Crochet? Vol 4

Dec 1, 2020

    1. Machine knitting yarn works also for tiny crochet, but it is really hard to get nowadays. Several years ago I found a large lot at a local flea market. A really random selection, lots of different colors and thicknesses. Obviously someone's left over stash, sorted in various bags. And they were rather cheap, too. I collected a large amount of those yarns that looked like suitable colors for doll clothes. I have used them for both knitting and crocheting. Here's a granny square blanket for a tiny doll's bed. The doll is a Fairyland PukiPuki, about 11 cm tall.
      [​IMG]Granny squares by spih_2, on Flickr
       
      • x 13
    2. That blanket is so adorable! Your pukipuki looks immensely excited to be able to curl up on that bed. <3
       
      • x 1
    3. The little blanket is so colourful and pretty! Your PukiPuki is adorable and I agree with @Mandagore that he looks really excited to have it on his bed! :dance
       
    4. The dress is adorable! I love the colours and how you have coordinated her shoes and socks to accent the dress (and her pretty red hair!). Did you make her little shoes?
       
    5. Yes, I made the socks and shoes, too. I have so many dolls that I can't possibly afford to buy shoes for them all, so I make them myself.
       
      • x 2
    6. I'm working on a granny square cardigan for my tinies, but I'm not quite happy with the size of the squares that I'm making. I'm using DMC size 12 thread and a size 0.6 mm hook, but it kind of seems like I should be using something even smaller. The one square takes up most of Toast's (Resin Soul/Bobobie Erin) whole chest. Is there a brand of sewing thread that works better than others? I've got some Sewology Extra Strong Upholstey thread I've been trying to use as well, but the thread splits sooo easily and seems to need a bigger hook than even the DMC size 12.
      (I was going to post a picture but apparently my image host got mad about a nude doll I had in my hidden posts...ugh rookie mistake i guess)

      How did you connect the squares? Did you use a join as you go or did you sew them all?

      (Editted to add that I really love your blanket, it looks great! I meant to say that when I posted this, but the image host thing really threw me for a loop...anyways lol awesome work!)
       
      #126 QuaintMysteryDolls, Oct 4, 2023
      Last edited: Oct 4, 2023
    7. The squares are sewn together, probably with the ends of the yarn used for the final round of the squares.

      I don't know about brands of sewing thread. The smallest hook I have is 0.5 mm. I suppose that would work with any standard sewing thread.
       
    8. Ah gotcha! Okay thank you! I've got a 0.5mm hook somewhere around here, so I think I'll try it with what thread I've got and experiment away ^-^
       
    9. Just FYI: I use embroidery floss for 1/12th tinies. Sewing thread has a tight twist that makes my miniature items stiff.
      Embroidery floss, especially silk or rayon, has better drape, if that's important to your particular project.
      LOVE seeing the projects!
       
      • x 1
    10. Speaking of granny squares...

      I made this over the weekend.
      [​IMG]

      I just bought this doll and I have no idea how to style her yet, so I am in the phase of trying a lot of random things on her to see what sticks. So, I've got a great excuse to make things that wouldn't fit the style of any of my dolls, but I also don't want to pour too much effort into the pieces until i know what I will actually end up using.

      If anyone wants do make something similar, it's really easy.
      I worked it top down, starting with a chain large enough to fit around the bust.
      Then it's all double chochet. A tube down to the waist and them slow increases after that (I think I did six increases every third row, or something along those lines.) until I got to a length I liked and a number evenly dividable by the number of stitched required for the squares.
      I worked the squares separately and then joined and attached them one by one by single chrochet.
      After that I finished the broder by a row of single crochet to make a uniform edge, one more row of doule crochet and finally a last row of single crochet to make a neat edge.
      The straps are simply chain stithces. I atached the yarn at the back, worked the chain, single crochet across the front, chained the second strap and single croghet across the back.
      That's it.

      I used the same 16/1 linnen yarn discussed earlier in this thread and a 0,75mm hook. The doll is 1/4.
       
      • x 12
    11. Hi all, you made such beautiful crochet, and thanks for sharing how you made them and what yarn and needles you all used :D
      I've been lurking this thread for a while now and I'm looking for some advice. I have only made amigurumis so far but I would like to start making clothes and accessories for my dolls.
      I would love to size down human patterns and have bought some, but I find that I'm really bad at reading the English patterns, due to my dyslexia I really struggle to keep up with the abbreviations written in a row so my brain mixes them up constantly :doh
      I do well with the Japanese patterns, but I'm wondering if there's a special term to find patterns that are written similar to the instructions that @Lillith posted, instead of abbreviated terms and magic numbers :eusa_pray
      I'm not asking for someone to hold my hands the whole way but just some search terms to do more effective research, pretty please :hug:
       
      • x 1
    12. I had a similar conversation recently and I think you'd have to not rely on the numbers that a human pattern gives you because they are made with human proportions in mind. Which for those that aren't willing to figure the difference it makes more sense to me to just find a pattern that's made with doll proportions in mind. I know I don't know enough about knitting or crochet pattern resizing just yet.
      You may have some luck finding some patterns in the tutorial section here since people here seem to be pretty good about stuff like that. I wish you luck and thanks for sharing your perspective, it's pretty helpful as a reminder for me with like transcribing other patterns what people like in instruction writing. :)
       
      • x 2
    13. I think part of the problem with "patterns" like these is that they don't contain enough information to be worked without context.

      I mean, if you think about this dress in amigurumi terms it basicly "Cylinder + Cone = Dress" just like you would combine half spheres, cones, disks and cylinders to make different shapes for stuffed animals and such.
      This works beautifully for simple shapes and of course it's possible to build complex shapes out of many partial simple ones, but it's not very efficient to use those terms to describe to a stranger what to do when making more complex garments, especcially when special stitches or techniques are called for. It just makes more sense to list the stitches as they come.

      Depending on how the garment is worked you may not be able to try it on to test the fit until the garment is almost done. That's where the math and magic numbers comes in.

      Even something easy like this dress would need a much more elaborate and detailed explanation if made into a complete pattern.

      For one thing, crochet stretches, but not much. For a hard, slippery doll with a general hour glass shape and a fairly drapy yarn, that means I can use the bust measurement for the foundation chain and still be fairly sure I can pull the finished dress up past the butt, but if I were to make a formal pattern out of this, even a one-size or "measure as you go"-style, I would have to account for variations in body shapes and include how to deal with a bottom heavy body, since not all bodies with the same bust measurement has the same proportions.

      Likewise, a full pattern would include information of how to make that border and how to make sure there was the right number of stitches in the skirt when it reaches that point.
      As I made this one up as I went along I just made a test granny square, counted the stitches of one side and worked the skirt until I had a number that was evenly devideable by that, made the rest of the squares and attached them "the usual way" fudging a bit to account to the stitches I had unavoidably miscounted. But that explanation wouldn't be very satisfactory for a pattern. People who buy patterns usually don't want to have to do the math, that's kind of what the patterns are for.
      Much of the appeal is that you don't have to think too hard, you can just sit back and enjoy the ride. Provided that they did a good job and the gauge is right, it will fit.

      With all that said, though, I totally learned to make my own crochet designs so that I didn't have to learn how you were supposed to read the patterns out there and I have only recently started to think more seriously about what standard patterns usually look like in order to be able to make patterns that someone except me can read. :XD:
       
      • x 4
    14. Thank you for the detailed reply. I appreciate all your insights and wisdom. I think I understand what you are saying. A pattern has to be precise, and is going to have some complexity that's hard to write out in such a way. And that precision is what you are paying for in the end :3nodding:

      And another big thank you for pointing out that you could break it down into shapes like cylinder + cone = dress :ablink: I didn't think of this, and it could actually help me out a whole lot. I do 3d modeling and always thinking about shapes like this when I model objects, but I never really thought about crochet like that! How clever!!! :D

      I do wish the English patterns used the graphical notation like the Japanese patterns. It's so easy to follow along when you are comparing your stitches visually directly to the reference image. Maybe it's hard to produce them for clothes this way?? :?

      Thank you as well to @Haven_Of_Dolls336 I will try to search for some crochet patterns here and maybe write them out for myself in a way that's easier for me to follow if needed :3nodding:
      I don't try to use my dyslexia as an excuse all the time, you know, I'm always reading and writing, but something about the string of numbers and abbreviations is just a headache and a half *_* But I still love the practice of crocheting, so I'll find a way around it. You don't need to change your own methods when it's working great for everyone else.
       
      • x 1
    15. That's how I do it. Of course, after a while the shapes will also include units such as "round bodice, the way I usually make it" "basic bra cup" etc. :lol:

      Some patterns do include diagrams. It's more common for things like lace doilies or small motifs rather than full garments, but sometimes you can get lucky.
       
      • x 1
    16. I meant it in more of I want to be able to accommodate people with similar struggles or even just beginners that don't know the abbreviations for everything yet, I didn't think of your dyslexia as an excuse at all personally. It's a very real thing and if I am noting a pattern down or something, I would like to make it easy to read for everyone. :3nodding:
       
      • x 1
    17. Quick question for those of you who make truly tiny things:
      Do you have any tricks for weaving in threads? I made a few test granny squares just to see how small I could go and while the chrochet itself works well and I am very plased with that, weaving in ends in such a way that they do not come loose is giving me trouble. There isn't enough material there to get some good friction and the ends likes to slip out, especcially when working with rayon and other slippery fibres.
       
    18. Sorry about the double post, but this is not related to the question above.

      I just finished a cardigan to go with the blue dress.
      [​IMG]
       
      • x 10
    19. For slippery yarns, you could use a drop of fray check on the underside on the yarn ends. It is essentially a soft flexible glue that doesn't stain, but check first on a scrap. Also, for securing the ends, use sharp needle and pierce the threads in the crocheted fabric and go back and forth. Rayon is pesky to work with, for sure, but it does look pretty, isn't it?
      I love your yellow cardi!
       
      • x 1
    20. Thanks for the tips. I will experiment a bit. At this scale, I find fray check to be a bit stiff and not very secure, I do use it alot for sewing, though. But I will try it out.
      Oh yes, the rayon dilemma. It's gorgeous and the drape is hard to beat, but it is slippery. :XD:
       
    21. Maybe there is another brand of seam sealer that would work better for you? Good thing the dolls do not move all day long as we do and their clothes do not need to be washed all the time!
      For that exact reason I prefer knitting tiny things with mill ends of a mix of wool and silk or something like that, so there is some grabbiness in the yarn, in addition to silky drape and sheen. Colourmart often has bags with small size cones mill ends of cobweb or lace weight in a variety of colors. I bought from them a few times, they ship worldwide. I like getting their grab bags because there would be a bunch of different colors and sometimes weights, each would be enough for small dolly stuff for sure. The usual full size hanks and balls in this weight are too overwhelming and expensive for the purpose, I think.
      Also, I think rayon thread for machine stitching and embroidery (what you get from a sewing store) might be made differently from rayon for knitting or weaving because you would expect different qualities from them.
       
    22. The best one I've found so far is Prym Fray Check. I have tried a few similar products from other brands, but none have been as flexible. It's also the least likely to stain. It does stain rayon and silk, but no other fibre I've tested it on so far.
      Yes, absolutely. The stuff I tried out now is the machine embroidery stuff. I really like it for crochet, over all. It is slippery, but that's mostly a problem right when starting a project. once there is something to hold on to it behaves rather well. Weaving in ends is also a bit of a problem, but usually for larger projects it still works. The difference here is that I tried with granny squares, changing colours every row, so there is almost nothing there to weave it in to.
      I'll try to take some pictures to give an idea of what sizes I am working with here.

      Edit to add image:
      [​IMG]
      The first on the left is ordinary polyester sewing thread. The middle one is rayon machine embroidery thread. The one on the right is the same size and linen thread as the ones used for the dress, included for reference.
      The little ones are the ones that causes me problems. The space there is to weave in the thread if it is to be done completely hidden is less than 2mm. And, if I just sew back and forth on the spot it adds too much bulk. The dolls may not cause a lot of wear on their clothes, but at the very least I need it to survive the blocking and general handeling.

      It's fully possible that I just need to practice more. I rarely go below about a 0,6mm hook normally, but I wanted to see how small I could go.
       
      #142 Lillith, Oct 19, 2023
      Last edited: Oct 19, 2023
      • x 4
    23. Wow, this is small indeed! I would say stitch in circle through the back side? At least for the first couple of color changes. Then make sure you go over the stitching on the next row to cover the ends? They should cover well because you are going in between stitches in the gaps with your hook on the next row. Hiding ends is always challenging, but on this scale it looks like a real problem for sure.
      But really I am much more happy since I switched to lace weight yarns, they are so much more pliable and behave much better.
      Your work is always so nice and fine, I think it deserves good yarn
       
    24. I made new dress for Petronella (same doll as I made the blue dress for) and I think this one suits her a lot better.
      I haven't owned this doll for very long and I am still exploring who she is. :)

      [​IMG]
       
      • x 9
    25. Thanks! I had fun making this one. :)
       
    26. I wish you made patterns. :)
       
    27. There are a few free ones on my blog and I have considered a ravelry store, but that has not quite happened yet. I am far better at making things up than I am at documenting them in any way that makes sense to others. I am getting better, though, so maybe one day. :)
       
      • x 3
    28. I keep a pattern journal, and make notes re yarn, needle size, etc for every pattern I try. When I check back, I wonder what the heck did I mean, lol!
       
    29. Yes, that's exactly how it is for me as well. I often start out making notes and then after a while I just kind of become lazy, or I work on something while doing something else and don't want to break the work flow to stop to take notes and of corse, while working it's obvious what I just did, no way i need to write every little thing down, right? :XD:
      And then you go back and look at it later and nothing makes any sense at all.
       
      • x 1
    30. Exactly!! lol
       
      • x 2
    31. I feel that! I'll come up with a new pattern, write down notes and little sketches and think "Oh, I'll remember what I mean next time I make this!" and then curse my past self for knowing I won't remember. :doh
       
      • x 3
    32. Haven't done crocheting in years, but recently the inspiration struck. First thing I made for my doll was this hat I've wanted for it for a while, so I eyeballed it and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I'm definitely never trying to use fluffy yarn like this again. Sorry I don't know how to take proper pictures of my doll :sweat I'll have to figure that out soon.
      [​IMG]
       
      • x 7
    33. @t11718910642 Looks great. Fluffy yarns are always a pain, but it does give a very nice fur effect.
       
    34. @Lillith Thank you:) Maybe I just need a bit more practice with it to figure out how to work it better. I would still like to use it for other things.
       
    35. [​IMG]Crochet cardi by Emily, on Flickr

      [​IMG]Crochet hat/scarf by Emily, on Flickr

      Hello crochet friends! I started crocheting about a year and two months ago, this so far was my biggest project, a chunky cardigan! I've made tons of hats and scarves for me and my friends, but I am hoping to try more crochet projects this year! ♡
       
      • x 9
    36. Thank you so much! ♡
       
    37. What thread is this please? Looks so tiny. It’s not dmc balls isn’t it? Beautiful cardigan.
       
      • x 1
    38. @AbrakadbrA Thank you!
      It is 16/1 linnen yarn. It is sold as a yarn for weaving, on large spools, so it's very cost effective when doing a lot of crochet. It is a bit stiff when fresh from the spool, but becomes softer and more drapey after blocking. In my opinion it's the best of both worlds, as the stiffness makes it easy to control and very unlikely to slip or unravel, but the finished piece still behaves nicely on the doll.
      If you read back through the thread the yarn has been discussed before and I even posted an image of the label.
      The hook used was 0,75mm. It's my go-to for this yarn.
       
      • x 1
    39. I wanna try it! Crochet thread is too thick in my opinion. And not too flexible when it’s such small clothes. Is it this one? Line Linen - 16/1 Looks like it’s around 3000 yards per that price seems quite reasonable. Lots of color choices. Too bad can’t see it in real store to touch it.
      And you use just 1 strand? Not double strands from 2 different spools? Sorry I can’t really imagine how thick or thin that thread is
       
    40. Yes, that's it!
      I use just one strand.
      I've used it for dolls in different scales, for mature tinies it looks a bit like chunky yarn, but it still drapes ok and even in layered outfits it doesn't become too bulky in my opinion. The outfit I posted in post #25 in this thread is all made from this yarn and that doll is only 25cm tall.
      For MSD-sized dolls it looks a bit like like a 8/4 cotton does on a human. The black mesh top in post #77 is very nearly a stitch by stitch miniature of a top I made for myself years ago.
      And for larger dolls, it looks even finer, of course.
      In post #142 you can see it compared to regular sewing thread, maybe that can give you an idea of the thicknes?

      The gauge I get with a 0,75mm hook and this yarn is about 25 stitches and 10 rows in double crochet to make a 5x5cm square.

      Not sure if any of this helped, but, oh well. :sweat
       
      • x 2
    41. Thank you. Ordered some spools of thread gonna try when they arrive
       
    42. I've finished a dress and skirt for Lilja.
      [​IMG]

      It's made to be worn with the vest in post #40. Here is the entire outfit so far. Now I am debating on adding crochet boots as well to complete the look. Not that she'd ever wear them, but still...
      [​IMG]
       
      • x 13
    43. Beautiful work, Lillith! I really like the multi layered look!
       
      • x 1
    44. Thank you!
      I love layers, both in modern and in historical clothes. There is a certain kind of magic in building an outfit up and see how the layers interact. And as a nice bonus, changing a single garment can make a whole new outfit, making even small projects very rewarding. :)
       
      • x 1
    45. So very true, Lillith! You've inspired me to pick up my long neglected hooks and needles! I just received the new Realfee Soso with the small elf ears but the poor girl has nothing of her own to wear yet.
       
      • x 1
    46. @El BJD Wonderful! I am looking forward to see what you'll make for her. :D
       
      • x 1
    47. Five 1" nylon rings, #8 pearl cotton and a U.S. #3 hook = fun and GAMES!

      [​IMG]
       
      • x 10
    48. Love, love, love it!!! It's such a clever, fantastic photo!!! He has me smiling ear to ear!
       
      • x 1
    49. [​IMG]
      A trial vest thing I whipped up while listening to YouTube videos.. It looks kinda bad, but this is a test for using fingering yarn and a 3.5mm hook:sweat*_*
      Need to shape it better (less lumpy, more fitting), improve how it looks (less arts-and craftsy), and keep practicing... next I want to try a cardigan. Maybe I'll crack my hand at knitting too? I do have a lot of fingering yarn for socks...
       
      • x 5
    50. Not bad for a trial!
       
      • x 1
    51. [​IMG]
      I posted a gallery about this, but hexagon cardigans are super duper easy for dolls too!
       
      • x 9
    52. @ZodiacMoon Nice! Once again the granny stitch shows it's versatility. :D
      Love the color combo.
       
    53. Thank you!! I absolutely love it and now want to make her granny stitch pants or another sweater~~:):D
       
      • x 1
    54. I made this one back in September
      [​IMG]
       
      • x 8
    55. Looks good! Great use of variegated yarn.
       
      • x 1
    56. Thank you! I was so surprised how well that came out! Usually verigated yarn pools strangely for me but maybe it’s because a doll shirt has so many less stitches.
       
    57. I find that yarns with relatively short sections and many colors tend to pool the least. Working back and forth, rather than in the round can help as well, as the sequence gets mirrored every other row. But it's always a little bit of a lottery.
       
      • x 1
    58. its been a while since ive posted here! im currently making a maxi skirt (its still in progress) for my mnf juri2020 but its slow going. i also made the halter top earlier this year

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]
       
      • x 4
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