The PNW BJD Expo is in Seattle in April and this year the theme is Paris. Well we've never been to France at all, much less Paris so I was sort of stuck about what to do for an entry. I planned to do some sort of composite but I didn't want to infringe on someone's copyright. Enter Wikimedia Commons; a wonderful comprehensive collection of imagery that is freely used as long as you attribute it. I also acquired a new toy recently; an 18" ring light. Ring lights are great for photographing smallish items with no discernible shadows. They are widely used by bloggers to photograph their craft or food or.... so are widely available and at low cost. You shoot through the open center of the light so the light comes from all around the camera. The doll in this composite was photographed entirely with the ring light. No supplemental lights at all. Anyway as it turned out they moved up the entry date for the photo contest and I didn't get the memo so when I went to upload my entry it was too late so I went ahead and uploaded it to Flickr. My girl is shown leaving an actual Parisienne boulangerie with baguettes in her shopping bag. Shopper Star by Tom Beach, on Flickr
I'm sorry you can't enter it as it's a wonderful photo. Truly well-composed, nice light, great pose, etc...
Fabulous thread! Great suggestions all around. I wanted to add my two cents worth. One thing about a lot of composites is too-sharp focus of the background. This is a real problem with digital cameras and high definition anyway. It's too easy to lose the atmospherics and focus that controlled depth of field gives. And it's not the way the eye sees. (Watching a football or baseball game on one of these UHD TVs makes me sick as the proverbial dog.) Anyway, this sharpness in a landscape is one thing, but placing it behind a foreground character which is at the same focus tends to make the eye flicker back and forth rather than settle on the subject matter. I tend to do quick and dirty photoediting because my time is extremely limited and my major focus is the storytelling. I do a lot of layers and effects and compositing, but are they clean and beautiful...er...not necessarily. I can't think of one I'd call really good example of this kind of compositing. So...using my own as an example probably isn't the best. OTOH, if you will forgive the cheek...I just took one of your beautifully composited photos and spent about five minutes with it to give it, I feel, a bit different focus, using some techniques you haven't yet mentioned. I duplicated the background layer, blurred the background with soft focus, then differentially erased the sharp focus bricks on the top layer with a large, soft-edged "brush". The result is the middle image. I felt that the bricks still had more pure white in them than I like...just little sparks, so I did a soft drop shadow of the top, partially-erased layer and that residual bit of bricks put a soft ambient shadow over the bricks with slightly more just behind figures. The stones that are on the same plane as the figures are full focus, including the leading edge on the stairs. The soft eraser brush along the edge where the wall meets the stairs gives a graded focus front to back. Sheesh...this took way longer to write than it did to do! Bottom line, here's what I ended up with.
Hmmm, point well taken! That image was based upon the painting "The Kiss" by Hayez. The background in that painting is tack sharp so from that standpoint what I did wasn't incorrect -but- It also has much less detail. Mine is too busy so you're right, in my rendition the background fights with the subject for attention. I agree that when the background is well distant from the subject it makes sense to soften it a bit and I've surely done that on occasion usually I drop my subject into an existing image and if the image plane where the subject will fit is sharp then I've left the background sharp as well. Else I'd need to use a progressive mask to soften the far background while leaving the near background sharp.... It's an interesting thought and I'll assuredly keep in mind for future and current work. Thanks for chiming in. I've always wanted this thread to be a conversation rather than a lecture....
I was by no means saying there was anything wrong with the original! Not even that my edited version was any better. Just different. Your masking abilities leave me in the dust. I was just suggesting another option for using layers to create dimensionality...and I honestly didn't have anything of my own for an example. I don't tend to superimpose my kids over other alt-backgrounds. I honestly don't think I've ever done it. They live in our world and just make do with being little. So all my stuff is in situ. Plus...I'm frankly a mediocre photographer. I use my camera to record their stories in snapshots. Fancy lighting for me is one of those LED headlights you stick on your head with an elastic band! OTOH, I do think that digital cameras and super-sharp photos are doing to photography what the super-realism/acrylic paint/airbrush era did to cover art in the seventies. Everything went flat and consumers and artists alike became so blinded by the bells and whistles that they just didn't see it. We're now in the midst of a shift back to atmospherics...in part because so many artists have gone digital and it's a different kind of b and w. Acrylics can do it, but it's hard to get a smooth transition in the way oils or watercolors do. Working in layers, artists can create a sharp image, then play with the various filters to achieve what the old masters did with paint...and more, frankly, because you're never wedded to your mistakes...unless you fail to duplicate a "solid" layer...or save down (my favorite trick! ). So, yeah, it's a bit of a hobby horse with me. I just should have used one of my own to demonstrate with. Please forgive me (hangs head in shame.)
Please please don't hang your head! Everything I do has layers and masks so I'm reasonably fluent in using them. I have no quarrel with your use of my image for illustrative purposes and in fact it pointed out that when I created that work I did in fact create such a busy background that it compromised the impact of the resulting image. A question for you. Here is another of my Paris composites. It recreates the scene in Funny Face where Audrey Hepburn runs down the Daru staircase in the Louvre museum. The background image, from Wikimedia Commons, is sharp front to back. I left it as I acquired it. In your opinion ought I to soften the more distant elements? Paris-2 by Tom Beach, on Flickr Part of the sharpness of modern photos is that sensors are just so spectacularly good anymore. Many professional grade cameras capture 40+ MPx and really good photos at 49,600 ISO (not mine though) It does make sense to soften those images if you want to convey a moodier ambience.
Okay... I shall now reveal yet another way to do composits...using my own crappy photography as an example! In the following, which was for a photostory, I wanted a good old-fashioned comic-book action shot. (I just realized how much I do use composits, tho it tends to be for stuff like this! ) The finished panel was Pooki pulling one of his now patented escapes (having conjured his mount out of thin air...another composite panel, come to think of it: I did a handful of "action shots" on a chunk of red fabric I had lying around (I think it was a shirt): Selected them out using magic wand (I usually do a few pixel feather on the image to soften the edge...for the reasons above..) then layered them in at varying transparencies. One thing about photographing something against a "blue/red/green/sky-blu-pink" background is that you're going to get some reflected color, especially on something like a beauty-white resin. With pooki, it just rosies him up and make him look that much more alive, so I in no way worried about it. That having been said, if you KNOW the photo you're going to superimpose over the top of, you can use that quality to give the effect of reflected color/light within the picture. i.e. if it's a sunset, use a red or orange or magenta background, stand the doll close to the background and let that light reflect. ... anyway...another two cents!
Whew...(wipes brow in relief.) The fact is, if you're going for realism, the human eye doesn't focus the way a digital camera does, and therein lies the rub, for me. It seems to me that if you want the viewer to see the figure and not jump around to different elements, making the image do with the eye would do if the person was standing there looking at the figure helps increase the realism. I would, yes. Especially those elements with really sharp edges. The statue itself might blur too much, and the stonework directly around it is already nice and soft. I'll get really cheeky and say I would also play with the colors of that background. She is so wonderfully colorful and the background is so beautifully monochromatic that they don't play together as well as they could. If you try doing a really simple color adjustment on the background...maybe bring up the red a bit (which probably means you'll need to up the green a bit as well) she might resonate just that little bit more with the scene. You might even do it just on the foreground layer...just warm it up a bit...leaving the blurred background layer in the monochrome. Don't know without actually trying it, but it might be worth a try. Such a beautiful shot, BTW. She looks like she's having such fun. Oops...getting called out for a Costco run. This is fun!
Here's a suggestion for you. That image looks dark to me. I'd pull it into curves and brighten the background a bit. It's also somewhat confusing to me. The multiple figures just create a jumble, not a cohesive story. I also wonder if it would be enhanced if the bunny bounced around a bit. He seems too static for the action surrounding him... Have you tried the Quick Selection tool rather than Magic Wand. You might also experiment with Color Range though I don't usually find that as useful as the others... That brought this image to mind... Multiple layers and no selection required. Camera on tripod and remote shutter actuator. Layered all three images and adjusted opacity to suit. I really appreciate your insights! My local photo art club has quite a negative attitude toward doll photos so I don't have a lot of opportunity to discuss artistic doll photography. Megan by Tom Beach, on Flickr
Hmmm...I use Paint Shop Pro, not Photoshop, so the two tools you suggest are unknown to me. I'll look them up and see if PSP has an equivalent. PSP has a smart select now, but I've been less than impressed. Re: darkness. Yeah...I have a problem with that. All my computers have super bright screens. I've tried several things to make them more like "normal" screens...i.e. something that will produce a picture that will look remotely like what it prints out...but nothing seems to work, and I've invested in some really expensive calibration devices. I don't worry too much about it.They're fabulous for gaming. OTOH, I didn't know that when I was doing this story. It looked fine on my screen. It could definitely be brighter and these days I'd probably mess with it. This was also a very early photo-story. It was done inside with no other light than ambient Christmas, and winter light through a picture window, so was probably done at 200 or 400. I've learned how to compensate. I'd probably do a fill light then local tone mapping or curves on it if I were doing it now, but that would depend on how the image responded. I didn't keep the layered images...I rarely do for the photostories. I just looked at the entire sequence and once he was up on the black TV credenza in front of the black TV, he became the same problem of trying to photograph a black cat only in reverse. In order to keep him from overexposing, the background went very dark. This particular shot had only one frame that would fill the spot in the story and it was the worst in the sequence. I needed to pull out the headlamp...but that was before I had that, too. As I say, I don't set out to take great photos, only tell a story. Can I take good photos? Well...yeah...My first credit purchase (a very long time ago) was a really good film SLR. I learned how to take good photos, but it's not a priority for the stories. I'm just snapping so fast trying to keep up with the kid's voices in my head, there's no time. Same with the tripod. They chase all over and I'm just keeping up. If I stop to set up in each new location, the story will stall. I also need to be dynamic with the angles in order to get the expressions I want on the little faces...hence another reason the tripod is out. Definitely a different goal. As for making sense, it's part of a very long story and depends on the before and after photos to understand what's going on. He's doing a tumbling dive onto the flying squirrel he's just conjured, who is like a horse waiting for the cowboy to drop down on him (and destroy his poor back.) So...no bouncing around. This is another reason I hesitated to use my own work because nothing I do (with my resin kids) exists outside the stories. Layers! I have one cover that, including the layers on the individual characters prior to bringing them into the cover, probably has well over 100...and those are just the saved layers.
We are in the process of dramatically reducing our book collection. Among the casualties are several of my older photography books. One of them described a technique for using a double exposure to show his model emerging from a pool of water. That image inspired this composite. It is so much easier to implement with digital images and Photoshop than it was in the days of film... River Sprite by Tom Beach, on Flickr
The image discussed today is not a composite. It does require selecting the subject so from a practical view it could just as easily have been composited. I call the image "Survivor" and it is intended to depict a young lady who has participated in and survived some sort of apocalyptic calamity. The challenge was to make her grimy and gritty. I first tried applying a texture layer and perhaps if I had found the perfect texture that might have worked but alas, none of my textures seemed appropriate. I finally chose a brush that had a sort of mottled appearance. Then I enlarged it so that it was large with respect to the subject. I used black ink at low opacity and stared dabbing all over her and her clothing. I did mask her weapon so it is not dirtied as she is. I'm not sure it made any difference but I believed it to be consistent with my character. Survivor by Tom Beach, on Flickr
A new selection tool. My laptop's battery charging tcircuitry failed so my laptop worked while connected to the mains which sorts of negates the who;e idea of having it. So I bought a replacement so I've been busily loading software and migrating data. Last evening I loaded my photo editing tools. While on the Topaz Labs web page I found their new selection tool AI Mask so of course I had to download it and try it out. At $99 it's not cheap but it's head and shoulders better than any other selection tool I've used. Note the lace at the edge of the sleeve on this image and I didn't need to do anything to assist it. The hairs by the edge of her wig aren't as well selected as I'd like but again I didn't do anything speciall there and few tools do anywhere nearly this well in one default pass I got a discount because I already own their ReMask product which is the predecessor. I'll be using this tool a lot. Composite by Tom Beach, on Flickr
How cool is that? Looks great, Tom, as though she's standing in the scene, not in front of it. Plus, she's gorgeous!
I've almost always composited my girls into another photograph. Well I did here also but I first converted that photograph to a virtual pencil sketch so I have my photo realistic girl in a sketched environment. It's a very different look. One of a series of images harking back to mid century pin up art. Hitch hiker by Tom Beach, on Flickr
In my first post to this thread I talked about lighting with the intent to composite. At that time I was using a reflective umbrella to create a soft main light. Recently I acquired a ring light and I've been using that for my main light when the intent is to use the image to composite. I still use a pair of side lights to create good definition to the edges of the subject to make selection easier. This is my current lighting arrangement. Lighting for compositing by Tom Beach, on Flickr This is my newest composite. Forest Trail by Tom Beach, on Flickr
Selection tools are getting better and easier to use all the time... Earlier this week I got a notice from Adobe that there was an upgrade to Photoshop. Well, more than an upgrade it is a whole new release; Photoshop 2021. This release brings a complete rework of Adobe Camera Raw and a new Sky Replacement tool but today's topic is the Select Object tool. This tool was introduced in Photoshop 2020 and like many of their tools the initial release was underwhelming. The new iteration is a whole different beast. When you make your base selection you get two options; select object and select and mask. The advanced tools are in the select and mask option. Here you can iteratively add to and subtract from the selection and invoke the Refine Hair tool which does the best hair selection I've ever had the pleasure of working with. Refine hair is also available within the quick select tool. If you use Photoshop you will love the new ACR and you'll also like the new selection tool improvements. Notice Diedre's hair on the left side of her wig *your right) City Girl by Tom Beach, on Flickr
Wow. As someone who's utterly bad at using the select tool (or maybe I simply lack the patience) I am super impressed with how cleanly you cut her out. Keep up the great work .
Thank you! Practice helps a lot. I'm far better at this than I was all those years ago when I began this journey. Also the tools are immeasurably better. I just looked and this thread is 5 years old.
It's been a while since I've visited this thread so I's time for an update. I noticed that the images used in two recent posts aren't showing. Fortunately the links work OK because I'm completely unable to get those image to show in the posts. If I edit the posts the images are fine within the editing fields but are gone when I apply the edit. Oh well, such is life on DoA I guess. Today's topic is background images. I try to use my own when Possible but sometimes it just isn't possible. Recently I got an Indian belly dance costume for my SmDs. Well I've never visited India so nothing in my personal library to use. As a photographer myself I'm really sensitive to usage rights and copyright infringement so I just don't lift images from an arbitrary web site. Fortunately there is an amazing source of public domain imagery including image from almost any location you can imagine; Wikimedia Commons. I've mentioned it before but it is worth mentioning again. Anyway, here is my girl Bonita in her Indian belly dance outfit performing in an India setting. Performance - 1 by Tom Beach, on Flickr
Very sweet! Usually, if the photos aren't showing, if you hit "reply" they'll pop up. Then, after enjoying the pretty pix, you can just select all, (ctl A, usually) hit delete, and the reply will *poof* disappear! Magic! She's very lovely. I'm sure the locals appreciated her performance. You do realize, when you do something like this, it actually happens. You just never know, cuz you aren't there! Bwahahahaha
Thanks for that. Even when the preview is missing I find that I can usually get to the images by clicking the link which still usually remains. I went to try your method but tonight the photos which were missing earlier are all back. So frustrating.... I try never to composite my dolls into mortal danger; just in case you're right.
This is something of a departure for me in my personal creative journey. It's been a week or more since I've picked up my camera and when I thought about which dolls I wanted to photograph and which props and backgrounds to use I realized that I've hit something of a creative wall so I did what I sometimes do to refresh my creativity and revisited a CreativeLive class that I've found inspiring. This is the result. There is nothing conceptually new here. No new selection tools or exciting blending modes but me rethinking my creative objectives. I love exploring fantasy worlds and here I've composited Bonita into a formal garden. I manipulated the photograph of the garden to create an unworldly setting for her and chose an image of her slipping out of her dress. The whole idea was to create something of an enigmatic image. Discussion welcomed.... Enigmatic by Tom Beach, on Flickr
I edit in Photoshop fix on my phone to compose. I blend and only choose ones where the lightings blend and it looks harmonious. I take nature pics from time to time and use those as my choices. here is a pond waterfall pic cut out onto a pic of a doll using "blend" in PS fix mobile. Jenny by Amanda Greenway, on Flickr
I've not yet made the effort to install Photoshop on my iPad so that's all new to me. It appears to work just fine and it's certainly a different technique. Thanks for sharing!
There are fundamentally 2 models for selecting a subject from a photograph. You can look for edges or you can look at color. If you work with Photoshop then "quick select" and "select object" look for edges. "Magic Wand" selects a color. Akvis SmartMask and Topaz Mask AI also allow you to create a selection using both techniques. This issue arises because I got a new doll last week and she has a lace dress. Edge selection algorithm just don't work for lace. You need to drop all of the background color visible through the lace. I did two variations of this selection; once with Photoshop and once with Akvis SmartMask. I'm satisfied that both tools are capable of selecting a lacy subject. As an aside though Akvis is based in Russia and their web site is currently inaccessible. Anyway, here is the composite. Gothic by Tom Beach, on Flickr
Ok, I definitely need more coffee as I read this post as "composting dolls " and I was trying to figure out why anyone would try and do that, lol. Really love how the lace was captured in that photo, just lovely.
This is not a Photoshop tool I use very often but when you need it it's incredibly useful. It's called "blend if" and you'll find it in the layers menu. (I use Photoshop) This is the composite: Stranded - 2 by Tom Beach, on Flickr There are three layers here; the background, her reflection in the water, the doll herself. The reflection layer is above the background and underneath the doll. I didn't want the reflection to show on her little island nor did I want it to cover the ripples around the stones. This is where blend if comes into its own. With the reflection layer selected right click that layer in the layers panel and choose blending options from the pull down. There are two blend if sliders. The top one allows you to protect the selected layer while the lower one allows you to protect the underlying layer which is what I did here: Pulling the left hand slider to the right protects the darker tones of the island from being effected by the reflection. Pulling the right hand slider to the left protects the brightest ripples from being effected by the reflection. Yes, not something you'll use very often but when you need it then you need it.
Adobe recently released new "beta" versions for some of their applications including Photoshop. This new tool is called "Generative Fill" and it creates an image within a selection based upon a short text description of what you want there. For anyone who loves to composit, this is as close to heaven as one can get. I asked it for an abandoned factory and it gave me this background for a fashion shoot. Haute Couture 1 by Tom Beach, on Flickr I asked for a medieval market and it gave me this background for my fantasy girls. Going to market by Tom Beach, on Flickr It's definitely not perfect yet. If you create a figure within a selection it merges it with the background within your selection so you can't edit the new object without doing a new selection and it's only notion of trains is from the UK but it's still in beta and it you enjoy creaing new backgrounds for you kids this is flat out amazing!