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Casting Casting Porclein BJD?

Apr 13, 2006

    1. I know that the artists here mainly use Sculptly type clays for their BJDs, but does anyone know if you can cast a greenware doll before it's fired? I'm afraid that she may blow up in the kiln (Unlikely, but always a possibility) but if I had a mold, all that work would not be lost. I thought that since I doubt I'll be able to afford an actual Dollfie for a while, I might as well make one but now I'm paranoid!! *_*
       
    2. actualy if you have porclein slip (porclein the consistancy of cream) and you make sure that there are no bubles by taping the mold the way you would if it was resin then it will be compleatly fine.. ^,^ there is nothing stoping you from that at all. Porclein is actualy very strong and chip resistant so it might be a nice as a resin doll. I would sugest you look up porclein casting though.
       
    3. Do you mean you are sculpting in porcelain clay and want to fire your sculpt or are you casting the greenware in a mold? If you are casting it in a mold then it shouldn't explode in the kiln BUT if you are sculpting in porcelain clay and and want to fire your sculpt it is likely to explode in the kiln.
      You can make a silicon mold directly from the clay sculpt but you would probably need to make a waste mold first .. then cast the resin and refine the piece and remold in silicon again. I think there is something about some clays inhibit the silicon setting up but I use porcelain clay to clay up for making my molds so I think it should be fine.
       
    4. The sculpture is made of porclein, and I have made sure not to have any air bubbles. (I think. :ablah: ) So I can make a silicon mold of it before it's fired?
       
    5. I don't see why not .. I use porcelain clay to seal gaps and to clay up when pouring my silicon molds so I am guessing it would be fine to make a silicon mold directly from your clay sculpt. If the clay has dried you might need to coat it with a sealer. Maybe worth asking the silicon manufacturer to be sure.
      Good luck,
      Kaye
       
    6. Old french BJDs were bisque, I think, so casting one in porceline should work... I think, though, if you're working with a greenware slip, then a plaster mold may work just as well... I don't really know, I haven't tried it, but I HAVE considered it.

      ^^ the benefit to slipcasting would be that it would already be hollow..... you'd probably have to let it set longer to her a nice, thick body though.

      And the sulfer in some clays can impede the setting of silicon, or so I read.
       
    7. The thought of porcelain scraping together in the joints gives me the willies. Its such a horrible sound and vibration.
       
    8. There is a good book on making ball jointed porcelain dolls -- Learning to Be a Doll Artist by Armstrong-Hand. You have to cast porcelain in a plaster mold (it's a bitch, I know) but the silicone won't allow the moisture to dissipate properly otherwise. If you suede the joints of the finished doll I think it would be really lovely. I have considered this as an option in the past as well but never got into it due to my own laziness...Good luck with this!!
       
    9. i thought the exact same thing o.o its like nails on a chalk board...not pleasant :sweat
       
    10. Ep... I never even thought of that. I just thought, "Oh, wouldn't that be so cute???" -.-" I'll hafta figure out how to not kill my brain after she is fired.
       
    11. liberal sueding of all the joints might abate the joint-grinding..? or some other sort of finish/go between treatment
       
    12. I have put Dr. Scholls moleskin on the joints of porcelain dolls I've made. It does stop the grinding noise. I'm sure the leather you use for resin would work just as nicely.
       
    13. yeah, i'm sure moleskin or even painting it around around the joints would work. onless you plan painting the whole body...
       
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