Looking for C&C! So my whole focus in dolls is to make dolls that aren't thinly shaped- maybe one or two in the line will be of the thinner variety but the first is supposed to be a msd sized full figured doll. I understand dolls of this type are definitely not to everyone's tastes but I want a doll like this- maybe a few other people will too? Anyway here is my doll so far The red is where her joints will be placed except for the ankles which I'm still determining. She's been sculpting in zbrush and I started with a base mesh in maya LT- I'm happy to talk more about my process to this point if anyone's interested or has questions. :3 Special thanks to my friends hool and wren who aren't on this forum but they deserve it for all the helpful suggestions to this point X) NSFW Artistic nudity but not high detail or anything @_@ ...
oh, I'm making a full bodied bjd as well! (the thread is lost somewhere on this forum :P) My main problem was the hip joint. I wanted to place it as low as I could so it won't interfere with the sculpt, but then when in sitting position it looked as if the girl was floating on her legs (not sitting on her bum at all :/) and since her legs are much thicker than the usual, the ball was so large it nearly touched the knee! So there was quit a lot of headache for me when making that part :P (ok that wasn't much of a help, sorry) as for the joints in general, I just place the balls and see if they fit well, than cut the leg (for example) and join the vertexes of the sculpt with the closest ones of the ball (sometimes creating extra vertexes to fit better). I duplicate the ball, so one copy will be the socket and another the ball that goes inside. Make sure to make the ball a tiny bit smaller. If you don't do it, it won't fit after you print it :/ it happened to me with the neck joint. Sometimes I also use booleans to make the cuts or to join the ball with the doll parts but then I have to adjust it manually because it creates a lot of triangles and ugly places. (I work with blender and I'm told the booleans work much better in Zbrush, so maybe it will work better for you ) I like your doll and hope to see more pictures! And do write how you'll make the joints, I'm interested in new ideas.
Yeee for full bodied bjd's :XD I like your doll very much and I hope you will fix her joints :XD Good luck!
I really like her body so far! Her shoulders and the way she carries her weight make me think of an athlete, like a wrestler or weightlifter. I'm excited to see how she looks jointed
Here's some processes from the day I started the sculpt and some adjustments since And here's her currently from multiple angles: The hip joints have been a concern for sure- but I think my shoulder joints are also a concern. I noticed on the DoD appi body that they offset the hip issue by widening the pelvis in general- This may be something I need to do or perhaps adjust the angle entirely that the joints sit so they seem a little odd, but make it possible for my doll. I'm debating on whether to slice the torso? A friend of mine recomended leaving it solid like doll chateau does because of the way its structured with her fat rolls is going to make it tough to joint there. Something to think about but I'm just wondering at this point if it'd even be possible with a fat doll? I'm leaning no. Thank you so much for the support it really makes me feel happy to know there are others out there who like dolls like this! View attachment 547 Some feet updates! Edit --------- View attachment 548 first joint attempt - process: Duplicate body, hide select limb area around joint and delete hidden (body). Repeat with body, deleting limbs this time on a second duplicate. Adjust joints and mesh around joint; smooth edge. --- continued the same way:
the shoulder joint looks like it could be trouble, i am not familiar with 3D modelling but it doesn't look like it would work well and the arm might not go down all the way? EDIT: also would it be able to come foreword and across the body?
@du-hast I will take a look at the shoulder joint- mostly I'm hoping to test during prototyping since I don't consider what my app shows me to necessarily be plausible- The top half of the prints should be here in a week or two so I'll get back to you on that. Thank you for pointing it out! :3 @Kiyakotari I will consider printing her larger for sure, once I get the mechanics of the smaller size smoothed out printing larger is a definite possibility. She's gonna lean on the smaller size of most dolls but I can see what I can do once I'm to that point.
I've started a flickr to easily upload extra photos, this update you can see the 3d print and which joints do and don't work. U3U flickr
What problems did you find with her joints? Do you know how you're going to part her torso? (Imo it could look very natural following the line under her breasts and the hip
I really like your design, and I know other people who would too - fat dolls are probably more popular than you might think. I'd really like to try and make one some day, but the joints seem really tricky to get right...
I like the look of your doll! I like the large dolls to begin with. I'm working on a sd size but with an immature body.
View attachment 621 View attachment 622 View attachment 623 Some updates- her joints are still a tad awkward but I was able to fix her knee joint but putting in a better socket into the thigh. Next week she will get her third updated body which will enable her to sit in addition to standing. @Sleep of Reason Right now I'm keeping her torso all one part because I'm concerned her fat wrinkles will be disrupted on her back if I separate her breast from her hips. @Anderson'sAllPurpose Thank you! That's good to hear, I love her myself X) The joints are a tad tricky but this is also my first doll ever- so maybe it's just that? So far there's only one extra step a thin doll doesn't have, and that's the extra socket space inside the thigh. @AlteredDolls Ohh I will track your progress if you have a thread, chubby dolls unite! Thank you~
She is fantastic! I had been wondering how plausible it would be to sculpt a model in something like Zbrush to print as a BJD. (Not that I have access to a 3D printer, but ... yeah.) Totally eager to see how this turns out!
View attachment 646 View attachment 647 View attachment 648 http://oakbottom.tumblr.com in case anyones interested on tumblr!
She looks great! I think I've seen her making the rounds on tumblr too. I like what you've done with the joints, it looks very natural.
Her arms are rather kicky and dont like to be straight- i think she may just need sueding but if anyone has any other clues as to why this is happening id love to hear them! I mean her arm is supposed to be a more naturalistic straight when it's out completely but so far I can only get it to stay straight with my "tissue sueding" for any length of time. I figure its how slippery the nylon prints are causing it, since her legs need tissues stuffed in them too to be able to stand. I've been using duplacoat automotive primer + filler on her, if anyone has any better suggestions for primers for 3d prints I'd love to hear All in all I've found 3d printing is a very expensive way to produce a doll- small prototypes cost around 120$ each and large prototypes cost around $700
she looks amazing! 3d printing is definitely more expensive than traditional casting for what I've seen, but at least it's much faster? Btw I'm working on a rather eh, bottom-wide bjd as a test rn and I just can't manage the hips! How did you make it so the sitting looks natural while keeping the range? can you post a pic sitting from the side? it'd be awesome! excellent work!
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/oakbottom-plus-size-resin-ball-jointed-dolls/ Hi all, I launched my indiegogo campaign to support the casting of BeechKiss! Please donate if interested or share with friends
I've reblogged your post on tumblr and will definitely support you before this closes! I hope you raise well over the minimum you need
I just shared the Indiegogo link on the BJD Addicts fb page run by Asenva! It's really cool to see local artists making such awesome dolls! (<---Coatesville area native ;P)
Hi, I wanted to thank everyone who has been following the process of my first doll. Unfortunately, she is not able to be produced. The casting company had the following notes to offer, so anyone who is doing a 3D printed doll prototype I hope you can learn from my mistakes and make a successful doll! First: the surface of the shapeways white plastic is too rough. Yes even if it's primed, even if it is sanded. Like the amount of sanding you have to do (I used a dremel and like 6 grits of sandpaper up to the smoothest I could find) it could eventually be possible but expect it to take like 3x as long as you are thinking it will, maybe more. It's just a really rough material to start with and very difficult to sand. Next do not use automotive primer. You need to use a more expensive primer that's listed on Haru's website that won't interact with the silicone. You want hobbyist primer. Next the channels need to be like drill bit made looking, not just booleans. It'd probably be beneficial to simply print the solid pieces that you can, then drill the holes using a heated drill bit. or filling the shells with apoxie and drilling that. Finally, your doll can't have hollow parts on the inside. So basically my doll's torso (being that it is way larger than normal) is not possible to cast because I can't print a solid block of plastic that size for anything less than like 1000-2000 usd. My only other option is to fill it with apoxie, but it is difficult getting the apoxie to stick on the interior. Anyway, I hope these help you, and me on my next doll project. I highly recommend Haru Casting even though things did not work out for me, they were professional, courteous, and extremely great to work with.
I am sorry to hear. Could you perhaps try to cast them yourself? I've been thinking about molds for a while, so when I was planning my latest project I wrote them in advance showing them the plans and they told me what the inside should be like, I highly recommend doing that, they were super helpful.
I'm also very sorry to hear that. You put so much work into your doll and I was looking forward to seeing it finished. I am with @varebanos here: Try to cast a dummy yourself and do the finishing work on that.
Sorry about the casting disappointment. There's a product from Smooth-On that seems like it might be helpful for at least part of this: http://www.smooth-on.com/index.php?cPath=1429 It's something you can paint on to 3d sculpts to fill some of the grainy surface stuff... and it is self-levelling and supposedly sands really well. And maybe Apoxie would stick to this surface better too?
I am going to be exploring all of your suggestions, thatnk you for them and sorry for the late reply! I had considered Karlyl's but ultimately did not like the resin color choices offered which is why I went with Haru. I may reconsider and look into their production of custom colors if that's a possibility.
