Supplies Airbrushes: Recommendations, Comparisons, Troubleshooting

I kind of suck at airbrushing face ups. (but then again I've only done two face ups)

I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS with the Smart Jet compressor... I'm having a lot of trouble controlling my air flow at times. It always seems to either get a really uneven flow, too much too fast (does that splatter spread thing). I tried lowering the psi in hopes of having easier control but then it would be kind of splotchy looking. Brush clean... So I have no clue on what I'm doing wrong. Also when trying to blush cheeks lightly It over sprays near the inner brow area... UGHHHH.

I've painted masks, figures... But I can't seem to get it /right/ with BJD. When I was doing my first face-up I tried at least 5 times just airbrush-blushing before rage-quitting and trying pastels.

Oh god this post just seems like a terrible rant. I'm so sorry everyone. orz

PS: Paints I'm using are : Mr. Hobby Color, Tamiya, Golden, and Liquitex.

 

Thank you for your help. Is there a brand you would recommend for the fine spraying needed for face ups?

Also wondering if there are any tutorials that someone can direct me to that explain how to blend mediums. For example when is it best to use pastels vs. paint and in what order?

 

One way to save money and maybe your sanity is to go for the single action brush. I have the Iawata mini revolution and I actually prefer it to my Eclipse. It doesn't get as temperamental, and is much easier to clean. Lyrech, it is a matter of personal preference when to use pastels or paint, I think you have to experiment and find your style. I go back and forth, and use both, a combination or whatever is easiest sometimes.
This is an awesome brush
http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/iwrem2grfeai.html
I use it everyday at my "real" job, I don't use my Eclipse at all anymore. I find I get much more consistent application, and I like the small size.

 

So here's the thing.

I've been wanting to get myself into airbrush painting for a long time. I'd use it both for make-ups and illustrations, so I guess I'd use 0.2 and 0.3 needles only. I've done some reading, so I know the basic stuff, I know more or less what I need.

My question is... is it a waste of money to buy some cheap kits like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIRBRUSH-...Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item51b3bb5293

or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Airb...es_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item19cddca891

?

I'm not sure. Obviously, I will need lots of time to get used to it and to master it, so I wouldn't even know how to use the more expensive thing.
But then again, maybe it's better to buy something of better quality, for example Iwata Neo? It's surely more expensive, but it's a good brand after all.

OR maybe it's best to buy the chinese thing and then start saving money for something even better than Iwata Neo?

I know it's my money but I just don't know, as I have no experience with it at all.
I was thinking about getting the chinese thing, getting used to it and then save money on make-up and tattoo commissions to buy something proper. But then. I really don't know if that's a good plan.

I need some help, please!

 

I would suggest going with the better brand. You will save yourself a lot of headachs. The cheaper brands are just that cheaper. They may not work as well and will just cause you more problems then they are worth. Even if you do get the hang of it you will still end up buying the better brush. So just get the good one up front and you wont have to get a second one due to the first one not working well or because you want the better one.

 

Thanks for your answer. ^^

In that case, would you suggest buying Iwata Neo (which is quite expensive anyway, lol!) or saving up for something even better than this?

 

Well as to the Iwata Neo, I'm not really sure I don't use or own that brand. Someone else might be able to help you with that. I think from what I have read people seem happy with it. I use a Grex Trituim TS double action pistol style brush. I happen to love my brush a lot. I use it with the Lixqutex Matte medium with a 5mm nozzle and it does not clog. I also have the 2mm nozzle and the paint flow is very nice. I think it is all a matter of prefrence. I personally do not like the up top double action airbrush, my brain can't seem to work with it so I went with pistol style and that has been working for me.

 

Isn't 5mm nozzle too big for painting dolls' faces? I thought even 0.3mm is too big...

 

For the face yes it would be to big, I only use it to cover large areas with the matte medium. I use the 2mm for the face.

 

Is anyone here using an airbrush with a non-airbrush-specific compressor? I just bought an airbrush (Iwata HP-BH) and it seemed silly to me to spend another $200-$250 to get a compressor with it, when I already have an oil-less compressor (bought with my roofing nail gun) with a regulator on the output that can be set in the correct range for airbrushing. I notice though, that airbrush compressors usually have a moisture trap on them--is this strictly necessary? I'm going to be using water-based acrylic paint, so it would seem to me that a little moisture in the air wouldn't matter, right? Unless educated otherwise, I'm assuming the water trap is there to cover people using oil or solvent-based paints that could be ruined by moisture.

 

I actually don't use the moisture trap with my single action gun. I have found it to be delicate as well. With a double action though, I needed it, those brushes are fussy

 

I have a really odd question. I have an incredibly low budget at the moment, and I am not actually looking at getting a 'proper' airbrush for doll painting - I just can't afford that kind of investment. But, a local deal site has the Luminess Air makeup airbrush kit on sale, and it's at a price which I can actually afford, and I was wondering - does anyone know whether airbrushes for human makeup would work well/at all for dolls? It's the kinda thing that I thought, well, if I don't like it for dolls I can always use it for on my face. Thoughts?

 

You could get an Iawata mini and a Silver jet compressor for under $300. I looked at the luminess, looks like it could work, the compressor is one like they use for fish tanks, I have had those they work pretty well.

 

Thanks for the info - I might definitely check it out. Airbrushes here are crazy expensive, like $500 or more with compressor. I assume it's cause of the import costs for the retailer :P

 

omgosh no way. Look at the Silver Jet compressors and the Iawata mini revolution, I use that at work everyday, my favorite.
Ack! I just remembered what the other little black box compressors are called, a bladder compressor.

 

Uhm hi, i hope someone can help me seeing its been quite a while since anyone's been here xD

I have a quite creative uncle and dad and they gave me their airbrushes and compressor that they (mostly my uncle) used to use for coloring cartoon strips wich he now does on the computer (yay technology). So i got a Sil-Air compressor. The thing is huuugee and massively heavy. It sucks in air, stores it in another compartment and as soon as the air pressure lowers to a level where i cant use anymore it starts to suck in more air. Its pretty quiet. Not too noisy but its old. Still works so i figured it would be fine. I also got 4 airbrushes with it. 2 Iwata ones, i think they are the same. 1 Aerograph, very very very old, almost antique. And the newest, A Hitenik. I got ink with it too. But i realize i probably cant use that on my Resin girls (Mh perhaps tho?with sealant?)

So...ofcourse i really want to use it for faceups but is it good stuff? Would it work? And i could figure out the exact iwata models but what is good and what isnt? And im on a low budget (im EXTREMELY lucky that i just GOT this stuff) so what paints would be best to use in an airbrush. How would i go around thinning out acrylics? I hope someone can help me! And if i missed a post about this earlier in this thread, please refer me to it

 

Don't use the inks on resin. Use acrylic, you can buy acrylic meant for airbrushes, but if you just want to get regular acrylic, get the kind in the jar not the tube, and you can thin it with water or acrylic thinner. I cannot stress to you how important it is to clean the brush after you use it. If you are intimidated to take the brush apart because you are afraid you won't remember how it goes, take pictures. I would invest in an airbrush cleaning kit, or you can also get some of those spoolies they use for cleaning in between your teeth at the drug store, good for cleaning.
Iawata is a very good brand.

 

Ok, so I've gotten about halfway through all the pages in this thread and I'm just too tired to keep reading every post. So sorry if this has been asked before . But would something like this work?

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbru...or-The/dp/B00BF0MW9G/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

or perhaps

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbru..._sim_ac_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0RFMX7TWN7CBC6JH50YY

Or are they just not good enough to get an even layer? I really just wanted something to use for the Liquitex Matte sealant. I figured I could use it for blushing as well though I don't mind using pastels. I really don't want a huge ole compressor sitting around so the first option seemed usable. There are also compressors used for nail art and makeup. Would those work? They're smaller and run around $50. Like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Salon-Airbr...d=100011&prg=9700&rk=2&rkt=10&sd=300956402391

If those are no good then maybe I'll just stick with MSC

 

Idlehen, those are great questions I've had too. I hope someone knows about Liquitex Matte sealant and/or those nail art airbrushes. I just wanted to try one for experimenting, but don't want to waste any hobby money if they don't work.

 

I have a Master airbrush, and I have had very nice results with it. I have not done doll faces in ages, but that was what I bought the airbrush for in the first place, and I really liked the results for the dolls I have blushed. I have an older model with a .2mm needle and a very tiny paint cup, so I do not know if the .3mm needle will be too big or not. I would buy the models with the smallest needle size to be on the safe side. I have the same type of air compressor pictured in Idlehen's first Amazon link, and it has been perfect- very quiet.

I believe my model airbrush was the Master G26. I have heard good things about the G series in general from other airbrush artists. They are excellent starter airbrushes that won't frustrate you as much as really cheap low quality ones. I bought it a few years ago and it still works beautifully. I take good care of it, however. I clean it with each use and store it in the case when not in use. I bought my airbrush from the TCP GLobal website and the air compressor from a completely different place. The compressor is not a Master brand, but it looks the same and has the same specs.

I do not know anything about the Master VC series, so I cannot comment on it, but no matter which model, do get a .2mm needle/nozzle or smaller. Your air compressor does not have to be powerful, either. I had to turn the PSI down to 10 or 15 to work on faceups and paint figurines and gourds. Otherwise I would get a lot of splatter.

 

Thanks! That was super helpful. I'll see if I can find the smaller nozzle size. I think perhaps the actual compressor itself is not made by Master. It's probably something generic with a brand slapped on it because I see another compressor that looks exactly the same on eBay by Vogue Air. I think I might give one those a shot. It's a smaller investment than a $300 compressor

 

The bottom compressor you showed is what is known as a bladder compressor, it's fine for the type of spraying you do painting dolls, if you were painting a car you might want more power.
I love my Silver Jet, and find it to be a perfect size. That said I used to use a bladder compressor and it was just fine.
Airbrushes are a lot, just to let you know, they are things with many parts that have to be kept clean. Sort of like a sewing machine, if one thing is wrong, you can't just soldier on, it just won't work.
The Silver Jets are only around a hundred bucks btw.

 

I actually bought the first one without even bothering to research and it was a mistake. It's very cheap and Master just slapped their name on it.
I actually just had a very tiny piece break. You can see in the picture that it broke at the threads as I was screwing it back into place.
Then the trigger just suddenly fell out. I don't know if they're supposed to be removable or not, but it looks like it broke in a spot...


I'm really upset, but I'll be sending it back to Amazon in the next few days and I'd better get my refund.

 

I am sorry you had this experience, but I have a feeling that it is not broken. The trigger does come out when you unscrew other parts of the assembly. That looks like the nozzle tip, which is is removable so you can clean the needle and replace it if it gets bent. I would not remove that when cleaning because it is too hard to put back on. Did you contact the company and send them this pic? I bet you can get service from TCP Global, and they may be able to help you without making you send the whole thing back. I had great experience with their service, and I know that they will send you new parts if that is all you need.

Here is a blow-up diagram of another Master airbrush


THe image came from a very helpful review at https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/master-g22


As you can see that tip comes off, and the page where I got this pic mentions that the O-ring connecting that tip is not always great- maybe it broke, and you can just get a new O-ring from the company rather than send it all back.

Sometimes my trigger gets a little fiddly after I reassemble mine, but I just wiggle it a little to make sure it is seated as I screw in the other parts- the needle and its associated parts thread through a hole in the bottom of the trigger or another part the move the trigger. (sorry it has been a while so I cannot remember all the part names lol) The trigger manipulates the needle and all those little moving parts in the shaft, so when the nozzle is off, it affects the tension inside the airbrush, which would loosen the trigger.

 

I wanted to ask, do you have to take a hose with the mini? I'm not really a pro and I would like to test out airbrushes. thanks ! (and for the compressor, it's the IS-50 ?)

 

Can somebody please post the links to the both Iwata airbrush and compressor that are ideal for doing face-ups? It would be so helpful to have the specific names and product numbers of those two.

 

Ruusu, if I'm correct the airbrushes with small nozzles (like 0.2 or 0.3 mm) are the best for face ups, because they can produce very fine lines. For exemple this or this from Iwata. A very good source of information is Airbrushes.com. There you can find information which airbrush and compressor to choose.

I have an Iwata airbrush from the the Revolution series with a large 0.5 mm nozzle, as I'm using it for sparying sealant and varnish (Liquitex), and I need an airbrush that can spray a larger, even layer of sealant. My compressor is Iwata Smartjet, and I'm happy with it too.

I hope someone who does faceups with an airbrush can give you a better answer. I'm a newbie in airbrushing and haven't tested my airbrush for the actual face ups.

 

Thank you Pionitar, kiitos!

 

I hope this is the correct area to put this question in, if not please let me know.
Okay I got a used airbrushing setup sometime ago and really want to start using it but I am having difficulties finding any information on the airbrush, it is a Iwata HP-A and of course it did not come with instructions and can not seem to find any online and was hoping that perhaps someone here might have experience or tips with this particular model.
Here is a picture of it for reference and there are more pictures of it here, I am confused as to where the paint is placed, I am thinking it is the hole in front of the trigger but I want to make sure.
If any one has any experience with this model, I would love feedback as well, Thanks!

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From what I can see from the specs online, yes, there should be a hole in front of the trigger where the paint goes (rather than a cup or external reservoir).

Did you buy a used airbrush? Your photos look like you're got a lot of dried paint in there. Be careful cleaning it out.

 

Thanks so much Minerva, That is good to know, I am used to seeing the ones with the cup on the front so this one had me puzzled.
Yes I bought it used and it does need cleaning , I am not sure it is in the best condition either.
I must research how the heck to clean this thing too, hopefully I won't need new parts but who knows.

 

Get some of the Iwata cleaning solution and some tiny bottle brushes (usually sold for cleaning tattoo pens), and go slow. You might need to soak it for a bit if the old paint is crusted on.

 

I believe the HP-A is designed for fine detail work so that's why it only has a small space for paint compared to the HP-C which has a larger cup. Am I correct?

 

Thank you for the tips, it came with some createx airbrush cleaner, so it is partly soaking in that at the moment and I will look into getting some of those tiny bottle brushes as well.

I am assuming it is too, since the little I could find on this exact model seem to state the same, but I looked over the Iwata site and there are no manuals on this model at all (or I completely missed them), so I am thinking it is a old discontinued model.
I should have done more research on it I guess before getting it.

 

I'm considering buying an airbrush for faceups and for all-over repainting (tanning, changing resin color, tattoos). I'm completely new to airbrush and I was wondering what kind of specifications are important for faceup work. Should I start with a .3 tip? Should I start smaller?

Models that were recommended to me include the following:
Badger Krome
Iwata Eclipse HP-CS (what's the difference between iwata eclipse airbrushes?)
Tamiya Spray-Wrk HG-III 0.2mm
GSI Creos Procon Boy FWA Airbrush

I've committed to buying a compressor with a tank and water trap and psi regulator, as well.

 

There is a airbrushes comparison thread here:

http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php/1179

The last page or two have the most recent information, some of them talking about what nozzles they use for what specific jobs. I've looked into airbrushes myself in the past, and it definitely looks like you are looking at the more popular brands.

 

ah! that's a very useful thread. I'll be sure to read it and come back with new questions!

 

...and I'm hoping to get the thoughts and opinions of some airbrush users here? I've searched around the forum but haven't been able to find one iota of info about the particular brand of airbrush kit I'm looking at, and seeing as I don't really have anywhere else to go with questions like this, I figured I should just make my own thread.

This is the Amazon link to the kit I'm considering. It's a dual-action gravity fed airbrush and the kit comes with a compressor + lots of other bits and pieces. The nozzle is 0.3mm, and since I'll mostly be using it for sealing and blushing and don't really intend to use it for any fine details, I figure that'll be an okay size to start with.

That particular page doesn't have any reviews but I was able to find the same make and model without the compressor included, and the reviews are quite positive... but still, I'd like to hear the thoughts of others in the hobby if possible! Does this seem like a good place for an airbrush noobie to start?

 

Bumping this up as I'm still hoping for an answer! I haven't had the chance to order this airbrush yet and I'm skeptical of ordering without a firsthand review from another collector, but I'll probably take the plunge next week regardless. If I don't hear anything by then I guess I'll have to cross my fingers and report back on the quality of this airbrush once I have a chance to test it myself.

 

I haven't had any experience with that airbrush, but I did a similar thing to you and found a kit on Amazon that came with all the bits I needed (compressor etc). Mine has been really good, I think you only need to worry about the brand etc if you want to do really fine detail.

I just went to check the one I bought, its showing as unavailable but the stats seem similar?:

FoxHunter KMS Airbrush Kit AS186 AS 186 with Compressor with Tank with 2 x Double Action Airbrushes and Hose: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

 

Sparmax ARISM Mini Kit (Sky Blue)

I've been a face-up artist for just over 2 years and I'm toying with the idea of an airbrush... does this one look ok for face-ups? (With a smaller nozzle of course, I'm more concerned about the compressor)

Would appreciate any recommendations and suggestions!

 

Hello all,

So I'm looking to get an airbrush so that I can put on Vallejo Color Matt Varnish Premium RC Colors and possibly using to blush and add different texture.
Being a beginner I'm feeling a little overwhelmed with all the options and would love to at least be pointed in the right direction.

This is one I thought may be a good idea? Airbrush

Thank you in advance!

 

As a beginer, my friends suggest me to buy a tamiya HGIII 0.3mm airbrush, or gunze ps289. Both of these two airbrush are good airbrushs and you even dont really need to change for another better one when you get used to airbrush.

Hope this can help you

 

Hi Iwachan
Can I ask what compressor you use with either of those?

 

Has anyone used the Iwata ninja compressor?

 

I just have a big HUGE old compressor from the dark ages! that mini one looks very cool. I'd ask if it were "silent" or ran quietly, though. That used to be a big problem with the smaller compressors--the noise. (it was terrible, but silent is definitely worth it if you work late at night, etc.)

I don't suppose there's an airbrush forum you can look up reviews on? There should be reviews somewhere!

Sorry, I haven't. Definitely google for reviews. Or maybe someone here will see this and know something about it! --I just know I like Iwata airbrushes... I'd hope their compressors would be OK. basically, you just need something that is reliable and not too noisy--and withing price range, etc.

 

Found some YouTube reviews for Sparmax Arism and Arism mini

 

@Magiek -- Great finds. Thanks for posting! I just watched the review on the Mini, so far. Pretty good review. I found the noise a bit annoying, but the guy says it's better than most, so there's that. The mini is totally nice and small! I swear, mine is a gigantic thing... but it's silent with a tank and built-in moisture trap. I don't think I can adjust the pressure, though, but have never really needed to. Silent means that because it has the tank, the motor runs only to fill the tank and then auto-offs/on when full or needing to fill up again. The motor is more quiet than that, and when off, everything is absolutely silent, of course. I can use it all night without stopping.

The 1/2 hour of usage before auto-shut off because of heat for the mini would drive me nuts, but then I used my airbrush for full paintings. So much less is needed for a faceup, so the 1/2 hour at a time probably won't matter.

I think if I were starting out and just interested in faceups, I might consider something like that... But if you're thinking of using an airbrush a LOT and for extended periods, might be better to upgrade.

 

I'm leaning towards to larger one I found a shop that offers airbrush and supplies at a fraction of the price chicagoairbrushsupply.com


Would a .2 nozzle be able to cover all things face up and body blush? Would it be to small for sealing n stuff

 

I'm not sure, really. I only had an Iwata HP-C that comes standard with a .3 nozzle. With most airbrushes, they spray wide when you hold it farther away and thinner up close. I have to say that I wasn't great at getting thin lines, but that could have been just me. I think a .2 nozzle should be more useful for details, and still could be OK for wider areas (maybe wide in inches, not feet!), BUT I'm just guessing here! I only used my airbrush for a couple of faceups and more for blushing--such as the gigantic hooves on a Soom SuperGem...

I was wanting an Iwata HP-B for a long while, to do more detailed work--and that's a .2, I think. So if you're thinking: more fine details vs. big huge areas (as in 5 inches or so wide), then I'd probably go with the .2.

 

Lol giant hooves I know what you mean
Thanks that's helpful

 

Good luck! --I found that I had a hard time controlling the amount of paint in small areas (such as a faceup) with a .3, but I really did suck at doing fine work of any kind. Mostly used my airbrush for larger areas--several inches and larger, where I wanted no variations or very little variations... that's what airbrush is best for. But some people are just really good with fine motor control. I have a hard time doing all the fine hairlines in eyebrows, too (with a regular brush).

 

I won't be too upset if I can't get fine detail down I plan on using real hair for eyebrows so I don't really need teeny lines

 

Airbrushes don't get very fine... I was just thinking of areas, like 1/4" wide! Airbrush is mostly used for areas you'd use pastel blushing on (cheeks, shadowing for eyes, etc.). Some people think using paint instead of pastel is longer-lasting and gives a more professional look, which is why most companies use airbrush. Hairlines, liplines, eyeliner-- you'll still need a really good regular brush.

 

I've got some nice little brushes I really like the smoothness of airbrush eye shadow n such and almost all my dolls have or will have modding so I've got more than a couple in mind that need color match
Hence why I wanted to know about the size

 

Hoping I'll be able todo some tats eventually but I've got frisket to help me with that

 

Sounds like a good plan! Although frisket... will depend on which part of the body... Were you going to pre-cut it then lay it down? that could work, although I've never tried it. I'm sure you'll be just fine!

 

I have a lot of experimenting todo right now I have liquid frisket I'm about to dye a doll that will have additive mods so I'm going to frisket the add on and color match those parts with the airbrush
I didn't see and of the film frisket at my hobby lobby so I have to order it but yea cut and layer if it works I can do it like screen painting with a layer for every diff color
In theory lots of experimenting to do

 

If the film frisket comes with a low or heavier tack/stickiness-- go with the heavier. The lighter adhesive is more for delicate paper surfaces and a light spray that isn't likely to run under the frisket film. But if you've ordered already, it's probably no big deal. Matte or smooth is mostly just personal preference... light spray is less likely to run, but heavier might do so on a smoother surface.

Have fun with the experimenting!

 

Thanks that helps a lot