Supplies Airbrushes: Recommendations, Comparisons, Troubleshooting

I believe the Copic airbrush only takes Copic pens, not paint. You can see in the picture that a pen is inserted at the top and it makes a spray by blowing air onto the pen tip.
Though I'm not sure if Copics would be safe on resin.

 

Has anyone used Grex airbrushes on dolls? My boyfriend is on computer modding and car detailing forums, and everyone who has used them compares the level of detail to Iwata brushes, and they have 0.2 mm nozzles as well as larger, someone who knows more could look at the other specs and get a lot more out of it.

I don't see it not working at least well, but any BJD-specific feedback on Grex would be welcome

 

Does anyone know about SIMair airbrush kits?

I thought they sounded good for multiple uses, but I'd rather hear some opinions//experiences of them first, if possible.

 

I am purchasing a Badger Renegade Velocity at the end of this month. I will post some pics of test sprays when I get it. It has a .21 mm needle and has excellent reviews for tight detail work, compared even to the Iwata HP and Micron brushes. You can get them for around $100-$120. I saw some videos on Youtube, and it makes some beautiful tight lines.

I already have an old Badger spray gun, which does a pretty good job for coating things, but is really a piece of junk. I would buy a can of spray paint before using it on a real project. It is fun to play with though. I cant wait to get my new one and mess around with it. Now I need an air compressor!

 

pumibel, I look forward to seeing how your test sprays go. I'm on the market for a new airbrush & would love to see how the Badger Renegade Velocity compares to others.

 

Well I have been obsessing over which one to get, LOL. If I don't get the Renegade V1 I will probably get an Iwata. Hopefully I wont keep reading every review and keep changing my mind.

 

Just make sure you either get a cleaning kit or go to the drug store and get the little tiny spoolies for teeth cleaning. Those things get in there, and trust me you need it. Another tip is put Vaseline on your needle lightly after you clean it. Helps to lube everything. An artist friend of mine recommends using a sonic cleaner every so often like one you get for jewlery. I intend to try it. The one thing I hate about airbrushing is the cleaning. Especially acrylic paint. Getting paint out of a brush makes getting makeup out of it seem like a picnic.

 

Thanks! I actually have some of those spoolies I keep around for various reasons

OK I actually ordered a Master Airbrush G26. I know people who have used the Master air brushes and they have good reviews. This one is a .2mm nozzle, gravity feed with a tiny cup. I also ordered a hose with moisture trap from the same company- TCP Gobal. I have an air compressor coming from Harbor Freight too. I saved some dough by not getting one of those "complete" kits. I am not knocking those, however. There are good deals on Amazon.com for anyone wanting a whole package deal.

I cant wait to get started!

 

Any recommendations for a package off Amazon? Preferably a not-so-expensive one that still works well and can do details. Dual action would be a huge bonus, as would gravity feed. Thank you!

 

Well I got my airbrush from TCP GLobal, who sells on Amazon, so check out their sets on there. I bought a Master G26. It is really nice, and the price was extremely low. Some people call the Master brushes Iwata knockoffs, but they are made in the same factory- I dont know if that makes it a knockoff. All I know is that not everyone can buy an Iwata right off, and if you decide airbrushing is not your thing, you would spend a lot on the Iwata.

The G26 is very good for fine details. I will post a pic of my practice. I am new to airbrush, so my skill is not all that great, but my first two gos at my Shoyo head looked pretty good for a rookie. I had to redo because my violet paint wanted to spatter. It was very fine, though. You cant just wipe off a little of it because then you have a noticeable void in the fine spray. I thought I just needed to clean the brush, but even when it was clean the violet still made tiny spatter- maybe the mix. It doesnt happen with my other paints.

 

It may be just the paint, especially as none of the other did it. Try turning the pressure down.

 

Well I got a little practice in today and took pics. I have a DZ Shojo head I have been working with for a while that came to me with a little damage from some mods. I tried some putty but I had to remove it because it didn't cure, so her lips are still a bit tragic right now. I used the new airbrush to do her blushing and a little of the eye makeup. Her first coat of MSC is chalky, which is why she looks sort of powdery. I left it alone, though. The other doll I sprayed at the same time didn't look like this, and I wonder if all the work on my Shojo head contributed to the powdery surface.

The airbrush works very well- her blushing went on really nice:




I also blushed my Morimoth's body after I finished with the Shojo head.





I am very new to airbrushing so my skill is not that great, and I still got pretty good results from this airbrush.

This particular airbrush, Master G26, only costs around $35. The G series in this brand are meant for precision work, so you may want one of the other models if you like a bigger paint cup or a master air control (mac) valve on the brush. The models with the MAC are a little more expensive but still very affordable.

 

Looks pretty nice! If you like freckling, it's pretty easy to do if you make the airbrush splatter on purpose. I usually start with a lighter color, then go to darker if you wanted a "natural " look.

 

Thanks!- I will have to play around with that on my practice heads. I do like freckles- the ones on my Morimoth were done with a toothpick and two shades of brown, lOL. It would be more realistic (and cute!) for her to have body freckles too.

When I bought the airbrush I also got a set of Comart flesh tone set. The color I used above was called "blushed flesh". It is not pink but has a rosier base than a peach tone, I guess. Not everyone is pink anyway, so it is more realistic. I think the set is a very nice array of colors.

 

I combed to page ~5 before deciding to just ask the question.

I got an airbrush two weeks ago (Badger Patriot) and I'm borrowing an Iwata compressor from my aunt. My intention is to airbrush a head from gray to white using acrylic paint. When I tried - with three different batches of paint, with various levels of consistency - the paint formed very visible, watery droplets on the resin surface which then ran.

Is this because the pressure/psi of the compressor was too low (the hand on the pressure gauge reads 40psi but it drops to a working pressure of 20psi)? Or was my paint too thin?

I'd also like to know, for anyone who has successfully airbrushed on resin before, what working psi was used? I need to give my aunt's compressor back soon and so I will need to buy my own - and what pressure I need to achieve will determine which compressor I will get.

 

I don't know much about air brushes, but did you first coat the doll in msc or another sealant first? That should help the paint stick better than just trying to paint right on the resin.

 

Yes, the resin pieces have been coated. I don't remember whether I used MSC or ZM, but it was coated.

 

I don't know if this will help anyone but when I want to use the airbrush gun I use plastic spoons so I can get a good feel for the range and spray of the paint .

 

EDIT: I fixed my problem with the help of my dad...On my TC-20T Compressor I changed the psi down to about 11psi...And I made sure I was using opaque paint (Transparent wasn't working for me..) And that the paint was thin enough for airbrush...It had about the same consistency as skim milk. I also made sure my airbrush wasn't releasing too much air because that was what made the paint splatter everywhere on my dolls. I got my thin lines without splatter or spidering.

 

Hi! I'm wanting to start modding soon and I was wondering what kind of airbrushing machines everyone uses and where I can get one. I've been looking on ebay for a while now and there are so many different ones for a large range of prices that I'm unsure of what I need.

Thanks!

 

I use a dual action, internal mix Badger airbrush and I'm going to get an Iwata compressor soon...right now I'm just using cans of propel and I'm always worried they're going to run out before I can finish cleaning. I would recommend learning as much as you can about different airbrushes to find out what suits you - different people have different preferences. There are also a few threads on here already about airbrushes (I'd give searching a try) but you probably won't be able to get all the info you need from a doll forum.

 

I have a Master G26 airbrush and TC-20T compressor. I didn't pay much for it on Amazon, but it works great. I am a novice in airbrushing so my skills are limited right now but it can do precision work like the more expensive Iwata airbrushes can. The compressor isn't loud at all. I would definitely do as Kate said and try researching off site as well. Good luck on finding an airbrush!

 

hello! I am toying with the idea of getting a airbrush for faceups and body blushing. I found this airbrush on amazon with a compressor and was wondering what the people of the forum think of it.

http://www.amazon.com/Multi-Purpose...ressor/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

 

My caution would be that the airbrush is an off-brand, so finding parts when you need them is going to be harder than if you went with a known brand. I had an off-brand that I loved, but when some of the seals wore out, that was the end of it because there was no replacing them. The compressor is also a diaphram, which *can* give uneven spray. (I've had some diaphrams that I've loved, though.)

If you just want something to practice with, though, and you'll be replacing the brush eventually it'd probably work as a 'starter' kit.

 

So I have been looking on DoA and out of DoA for any and all information pertaining to airbrush face ups and haven't quite found anything. There was a thread here on DoA (a tutorial, I believe) but the pictures are broken and I'm quite the visual learner. I should start by saying that I have previous experience with airbrush painting -- not extensive, but we did a couple of works at school with airbrush.

The problem is that we didn't get around to what brand, size, pressure, and all that sort of important information. And I'm specifically curious about airbrush materials, tips, and tricks for the face up part of the trade. Tons of tutorials and tricks online for painting on "canvas" but none on BJD.

I'm specifically looking for info on brands of airbrush, compressor, nuzzle/needle size, and all that fun stuff. I want to start practicing but want to ask some of the talented and experienced air brush artists on DoA first so that when I make a purchase, I make a pretty sensible one. Cost isn't really an issue. I am willing to save to invest in a machine/kit that will take me from learning to "less of a noob" and then beyond.

Also, safety information - must it be done in ventilated area, etc? At school we worked in a large room with open windows but I've never been one to read safety labels so who knows...

Thanks in advance to anyone who can shed some light; I'd greatly, greatly appreciate it.

 

First here: http://www.denofangels.com/forums/s...you-need-to-know-about-respiratory-protection!

Airbrushing even in an open environment is still aspirated paint, even acrylic is not something you want to be inhaling.

I can recommend going right for an air compressor. The cans, are nice for learning on but end up costing a lot for not a lot of work time.

 

an iwata would be the way to go for a cleaner spray and finer details though a paasche airbrush is a step down but less finicky and less cloggy.
I worked at an airbrush stand for two years and our paints were acrylic based. We never had any respiratory issues, nor did we wear respirators.
if cost isnt an issue, I would say go for the iwaata top feed (be careful not to drip, only use a couple drops of paint at a time) and a super silent air compressor because these things are loud!

 

Ah good thread on respiratory protection Kitkaze -- thank you. I should probably take better care of my lungs. Art school exposed me to every type of toxic fume imaginable.

I've heard that Iwata is really good for details which is important in a face up, especially since doll heads aren't that big compared to other types. I will definitely look into them. Thanks a lot razorrcandii.

 

Did you wind up getting this airbrush? I am seriously considering it myself. The customer reviews of it are quite impressive. Would love to hear your thoughts if you did buy it...

 

aikohaku, I know it's been a long time, but has your question been answered yet?

Anyway, sounds like your paint was too thin and your pressure was way too high. I usually work when spraying resin with a pressure ranging from 0.6 - 1 bar. (I think it translates to psi as 8 - 14). Hope that helps.

 

I'm new to airbrushing and haven't found an answer here...
Is it possible to make a body blushing with a simple compressor that delivers only 25 psi max, or better even don't give it a try?

 

I've seen a few people suggest Silver Jet and other compressors that don't deliver as high of a PSI, so hopefully it works? I'm going to try that too because my local art store sells it.

 

I use badger, it works great! (I use it for covering modifications, though.) A great recipe for airbrush paint: 40% thinner, 60% paint (2 parts and 3 parts).
hope it somewhat helped!

 

I use a Badger Crescendo 175, and a Testors mini air compressor. The 175 is a bottom loader dual action, and I usually thin my paints with water, but tonight I'm going to try liquitex airbrush medium to thin them, to see if there is any difference.

I typically use the airbrush for color changes and to cover mods. Haven't ventured in to the realm of airbrush faceups yet, but I'm sure I'll give it a shot eventually!

 

I was wondering what people used to measure out the quantities of paint/thinner into the airbrush?

I had a squeezy pipette but it soon got blocked and ucky.

 

A pipette would be the best tool for it, however you have to rinse it immediately after use, otherwise it will get blocked easily. Always have a little container with distilled water nearby for such purposes.

 

I don't think my airbursh is a very good one, or two should I say, I bought a secondhand Badger one on ebay but it is just as bad as the cheapy one that came with my compressor.

Of course the real problem is me, I don't practise enough, I was using it for my sons warhammer, and I don't think it likes the GW acrylics very much, maybe I don't thin them out enough, but I seem to spend 90% of the time trying to get the brush to spray anything out, 9% of the time cleaning up what it has spat out, and the last 1% works great, then the paint runs out, it's very frustrating because I love playing with it!

 

Shunklies, the most difficult thing with airbrushes is exactly that, to find out what kind of consistency of the paint, what pressure and what kind of gun works best for you. Unfortunately there isn't really a rule of thumb, you do have to try out what works best with your materials.

For instance I use Schmincke Aero Color Acrylics when spraying and I think they work best coming right out of the bottle without any kind of thinner, whereas others I know cannot get any decent results without thinning them 1:1 with thinner first. On the other hand, when I try to work with gouache it usually results in one horrible mess, although I mix it to be the same consistency as the Aero Color acrylic ink. Well, I guess I will have to change either the pressure or thin the gouaches even more. We'll see.

Your post made me smile, well, for me it's more like that: 20% to get the set up and prepare everything, maybe 40% of the time for actually spraying and 40% of the time goes to cleaning the gun (and the mess around me). I love airbrushing, if it weren't for all of the cleaning

About the GW acrylic colors, if I'm not mistaken they come in different consistencies. There are the regular ones which need a lot of thinning and then there are the ones labeled as "washes", the latter ones being very thin, almost like acrylic inks, those shouldn't need much thinning.

 

I don't really use the washe in the airbrush because they've always been more an all over finish to create shadow, but the standard colours can also differ I've found.

It is trial and error but i'ma fraid I don't have much patience, and I get frustrated with the fact that by the time I get the consistency just right, it dries up! lol

I've just ordered some retarder so maybe that will help.

 

Hey guys, I'm going to scan through this thread, but I'm looking into buying an airbrush soon, what are some good recommendations? I don't really have a budget, as long as I'm not looking at like.. a grand for one. Idealy somewhere between 300-600 at max for both the airbrush, and the compressor.

I know little to nothing about airbrushes, but I really really want to get into it. @__@

I went to hobbytown today and the girl wasn't much help.. She asked if I wanted double or single action, but I wasn't even sure what that meant.

I apologize for being such a clueless person when it comes to this. D:

 

I just ordered an Iwata HP-B, it seems to have very good reviews.

I'll see how I get on when it comes.

Here's a good link to airbrush faqs

 

I have a question regarding compressors. I've been to one art supply store recently with a selection of air brushes, supplies, and compressors. The compressors they had for sale were small and around $700. Is this an average price for a compressor or should I be looking elsewhere? Airbrushes ran at ~$200, is this also an average price? I'd like to invest in an airbrush with cost aside and of a good quality for both small doll sized details and larger costume pieces.

Any advice is appreciated

 

CelestialSnow - The price for the airbrush sounds pretty reasonable, though I would think you could probably get a better deal by shopping around a bit. The price on the compressor sounds very high, though. I picked up an Iwata HP-CS at Hobby Lobby for around $120 (original price $200, but they run a 40% coupon online almost every week) and my compressor was right at about the same price, maybe a little less.

I would think $100-200 should get you an air compressor that works wonderfully for an airbrush. Mine is an Aztek mini compressor and it runs up to 35psi, which seems to be pretty ideal if you're doing small scale work. You'd probably need something different if you were going to be airbrushing cars, t-shirts or murals, but for dolly-projects, you'll probably not have any use for more than that.

You can get an air compressor for even less than that if you don't mind the noise. The main advantage to an airbrush-specific compressor is that they're designed to be less noisy than the general purpose types.

 

Thank you very much for the reply I had a feeling that the compressors ran...a little high. I went to Prizm (not sure how wide spread they are), but I'll have to check out Hobby Lobby. And coupons, boy do I love coupons and I do get Hobby Lobby emails, so that's a bonus!

Now, if I were to be also using the airbrush for large armor pieces and fabric, would I want a compressor with a higher psi?

Thanks again!

 

A nice article about airbrushes. http://www.craigcentral.com/models/ab.asp

CelestialSnow, do you remember what brand the airbrush was?

 

I just got my Iwata revolution dual action with a silver jet compressor, I'm so excited!
I'm about to go to the store for some paint and thinner, and liquitex matte.
Any suggestions on other stuff I may need to get started?

 

Can anyone recommend some decently priced airbrushes for me to look into? I don't want something super cheap for beginners that I would have to trade up for a nicer machine. I'd rather spend a bit more and get a higher quality machine.

I'm sure my question has already been answered, but this thing is 8 pages long. That's about 7 pages more than my attention span can handle XD

 

My boyfriend and I have this Master airbrush and compressor, which we use to paint plastic model kits, and we absolutely love it. It works great, and it was very intuitive to learn. I was making fun artistic patterns on our practice sheet the first time I picked it up! A couple things I'd recommend to people looking for an airbrush or wondering how to get started in the art of airbrushing:

Gravity Feed vs Siphon Feed: Unless you're going to be using a TON of paint in one sitting, and I do mean a ton, go with the gravity feed. You'll get a much more even flow with less paint.
Single Action vs Dual Action: Your mileage may vary, but in my opinion there's no reason whatsoever to buy a single action brush. Dual action gives you much more control, and it's not that hard to get used to. I found varying the air and paint flow at the same time to be very intuitive, so play around and have fun with it and you'll get the hang of it before you know it.
Ventilation is Key: Let me say this again. VENTILATION IS KEY. When you're shopping for brushes/compressors/paints, don't forget a proper mask! You MUST remember to wear one, even if you're working outside, and not any little surgical mask will do. You need one designed to filter out particles in the air. A lot of gunpla hobbyists get ours from the local auto parts store. And if you're working inside, don't forget to open a window (or two, or three, etc) and turn on a fan, if you have one. At my house, we also point a fan out the window to try and help air the room out that much faster.
Don't Rain on Your Own Parade: Humidity will ruin any chances of a good finished result. If it's humid outside, think twice about whether or not today is a good day to paint. If it's raining, forget it. You'll just have a bad time.
Protect Your Surfaces!: When you're airbrushing, you're basically aerating paint and blasting an object with it. This stuff can and will get everywhere. Either cover your working surface with newspaper/etc or work on a surface you don't mind "decorating". And don't forget the walls! I put a cheap tri-fold poster board (the kind you buy at the office supply store for science fair projects) on my work table so I can work at any angle without accidentally painting my walls. This stuff costs money though, so budget for that when you're pricing out what you want to spend.
Canned Air: Before you buy canned air for your airbrush, regardless of the good vs bad results debate going on elsewhere in the thread, think about this before you buy: you are thinking about spending real money. On air. You are literally evaporating your own money. You might want to consider the benefits of a short-term fix like canned air versus the more expensive, but lasting, investment of a compressor.
Practice, practice, practice!: Buy some "dummy" paints and practice airbrushing cardboard/paper/whatever. Don't expect a miracle on your first try. It's intuitive to grasp the basics, but it's still a learned skill.
Local Hobby Shops are Your Best Friend: Even though they don't necessarily cater specifically to doll owners, the staff and fellow customers at your local hobby shops can offer you priceless tips and advice. Not only will you find paints, masking materials, and hobby tools of all varieties, but at the right store at least, folks are always willing to help a newbie figure out what's what. It's also a lot of fun just perusing their selection and seeing the sort of things other hobbyists like to make.
Have Fun!: Airbrushing is an art, not some secret arcane skill practiced by the Pigment Wizards and their Loyal Compressor Minions. Find what you like to do and run with it. Experiment! Try new techniques, designs, or colors. Challenge yourself! And most importantly, don't get discouraged if your results don't look like what the pros can do a couple weeks after you started. They're pros for a reason, after all.

 

I'd like to add one more thing:
Clean your brush after every session. If you don't, you will be very very sorry.

 

Wow, I can't believe I forgot something that basic! *facepalm* Thanks for the addition, Stella! I would also recommend cleaning between colors for best results. Even if you wipe all the paint out of the basin, it'll still be all over the needle unless you clean it off. I've read of people just blowing thinner through the brush between colors, but I'm very particular about that part. Whichever way you decide to go, just make sure you're not mucking up your colors.

 

Lol Yomika, it's because you are so used to cleaning it's second nature.
I am of the just blow 99 percent through between colors, but just since I am converted to the single action.

 

I see that you can use the airbrush paint thats already thinned or you can thin your own acrylic paint...

Can you use watercolour paint? gouache paint?

 

I don't think watercolors are a good idea, but I know Andreja or whatever uses gouache.

 

Meh I just hate acrylic paint but I love my gouache paint.
so i was just wondering if it would work in an airbrush

 

I've read the majority of this thread and wanted to know if anyone has had experience with the Neo line of Iwata. I'm thinking of investing in the Neo CN which is a dual action gravity feed brush and the neo mini compressor. I've seen a few reviews on youtube but wanted to see how well it would work for faceup work.

 

How different is using a "good" airbrush compared to a cheap nail art one?

 

I haven't worked with an Iwata Neo-line brush. The .35mm nozzle/needle is a good size, though the psi it operates at may limit the paints you can use due to how thin they would have to be. I would definitely invest in some higher quality paints that have a low filler content, they will thin out well for the brush.

A cheap or knock-off airbrush will be made of low quality parts, poorly assembled/not fine tuned, break and dent easier. (Dents will affect the paint flow)
With airbrushes, the amount you spend is very closely related with the quality you get. There are exceptions like with everything, but that is the general conclusion.

Think of them like car engines.
If you buy a cheap or knock-off of a name brand engine made of cheaper and lower quality parts, it is not going to last nearly as long as a well made/more expensive one.
With the cheap one, the parts won't be fine tuned, which may cause your car to wear out and need at least twice as many mechanic visits.
So it's a question of if you'd rather spend a higher amount now for a nice/quality brush or spend less on a cheaper one with a high chance of spending more on replacement parts or even having to get a new brush.

While on this subject, do NOT buy the "Master" airbrushes. They are knock-offs of Iwata and are very low quality. I've personally have had one snap in my hand while in use, nearly resulting in stitches. Got it as a gift/learning airbrush. I didn't know they were a knock-off until after that incident.
If you're seeking a cheaper, yet quality airbrush, Iwata has their Eclipse and Neo lines. Paasche and Badger have lines and whole kits that are rather affordable. Badger's compressors are very good, I had a very old one for a while that still worked perfectly and I had gotten it for only $25 on Craigslist.

You can pretty much use any kind of water based paint in an airbrush, it's the fluidity and quality that matters.

Watercolors, I have high quality ones, but the tubes are too small to consider using in an airbrush. You'd end up spending much more than needed to achieve results.

Gouache works rather well. Thin it out to the right consistency and you're golden. It also wipes easy with water if you mess up.
BUT. You can't use cheap ones and expect to get good results even if you're at the right consistency. The cheap ones contain more fillers and not as much pigment, pretty much just like pastels. You won't get very vibrant results, may even have to do a couple passes of the same color to get what you want.

 

Thought as much. Mine says "Magictouch" and a quick Google doesn't even turn up results. It was free, though, so whatever. I'll consider getting a decent one in the future. Thanks!

 

Has anyone tried a BearClaw brand or Peak brand airbrush? I am considering these due to their economical pricing, but sometimes it's not worth the frustration if it's a cheap product. Any product reviews would be helpful for this newbie.

 

I've read mixed reviews on that brand.
My basic conclusion is to go with something else for BJD painting. These brushes don't seem to be good for detail or fine spraying.

The mixed reviews, some say they're great, others complain about strange business practices of the company and some say their brushes weren't put together correctly or with unfinished parts. Chrome missing from the surface of the brush, rough edges, etc. Strange business practices mostly were buying straight from the company with some kind of sale going on, charging shipping when it said free shipping, things like that. There are other online stores to buy them from, which is what I would do if you go ahead and try this one.

This could be an alright learning brush, but I would not trust it to deliver fine detail or smooth color on a face-up. I personally wouldn't use it for airbrushed sealant either. Sputtering of the sealant ruins that layer, won't be able to get pastel or paint smooth across the spots. You can certainly try it, it's not a knock-off brand from what I can tell, but I wouldn't be surprised if the quality is lacking.
If I picked up this brush intending to learn airbrush care and usage, I would not want to pay a lot for it. Certainly not above $50 since a used well known brand can be found on eBay for not much more than that.