Materials Air dry clays?

DAS isn't all that strong when it's thin... so i don't know if it would work or not. It really depends on how thin the core is. I haven't used the Delight brand, although I did get some generic japanese stuff at mitsuwa. It's intended for children and is more gritty than creative. It's okay, but I like the creative better.

I mostly like the fact that with paperclay i can sand it easier. XB

 

x_x I got some creative paperclay at the store yesterday and started a head with it (not comfortable enough with it to post here yet.. ) and for some reason when I try to sculpt with it, it gets a dry crust of sorts on the outside of it and wont adhere to already applied clay, and when it does adhere to it.. it comes out all lumpy over large areas.. x_x

Maybe I am doing something wrong >.<;
It is alright for detail if you can get it to go on right though.

 

Has anyone tried Apoxie Sculpt? I use Aves to sculpt props and do mods (and I am addicted to it), but how about using it for a complete doll sclupture?

The only issues I can see is that it dries rockhard, so cutting into it is not possible without a dremel tool. But it sands wonderfully and smooths to a perfect finish with water.

Anyone tried it? I know many people mod with it, but I've never seen anyone try a doll from scratch using it.

 

There is a person in this forum making a tiny doll out of green Apoxie Sculpt. I dont have the link to it though, but I remember seeing it.

 

this is good to know as i just bought some Amaco - Marblex clay in grey from jo-anns.....man that store needs to have a better selection of things as far as clay's concerned....come to think of it i wonder is it just the one near me that....doesn't have much or what!

oh well can't be too picky.

 

no ones answered my ?

anyone anyone?

 

Oops, I was gonna answer that but I use a different clay...but I suppose you could use the same stuff. You can do a number of things. You can use a Mr. Surfacer product which I believe is a sprayable putty (comes in gray & white...500 & 1000) then paint your flesh color over that (or you could substitute the Mr. with a primer like Tamiya fine or one made for cars ). Or you could make a mixture of gesso, modeling paste, and gouache (for color) that is like sort of thin consistancy and paint that on in 5-6 layers (I coated a 45cm stoneclay boy with this and his clay has held up very well with gentle play). And I guess if your going to cast, any fine primer/putty spray ...probably in a dark color would work...sand down between light coats. I think to find out what you really like, make some flat chips of your clay and number them. Then use diffent finishes on them and note what each one was and compare them. Fun bit of experimenting...oh, man I just wrote a book...sorry!

-eva

 

*is lost*

you kinda lost me on all that.....let me clarify my ? a bit.

i'm debating whether to use just primer on the doll or am i supposed to use gesso or putty?

I need to know soon before i buy the primer/etc stuff.....

 

Well it really depends on what you are doing with the doll. If you are going to cast I would suggest using primer (like auto body primer) or sprayable putty (like the Mr. Surfacer) since the original is not intended for anything other than casting (I've heard they can break sometimes). But if you're doing a single art doll, then you'd use gesso (I haven't used gesso by itself, though, so I don't know what the result is. I use a mixture of gesso and modeling paste).

What it really boils down to is what you prefer...so you might have to experiment with a few different things. I think what works for one artist might not work for another. I was just trying to give you some ideas.

-eva

 

thanks i'll experiment then and see how things come out!

.....*>_> ok new ?

do i have to sand the doll after putting on the primer?

...yeah i know i'm a pain in the fanny!

 

now, i'm working on a stone clay (air dry). It work just fine. I can sculpt easily ,but the problem is it a little bit shrink after it dry. I made a lot of polymer clay dolls , so I know a few brand of clay. Usually I used Pro Sculpt . It hard to bend for sculpt , but after bake , doll skin seem like smoother than other clay brands. I don't recommend paper clay. In my opinion, I don't like to sand paper clay at all. too difficult.

 

I don't like paperclay very much either. I agree, it has a tendency to crumble and rip when sanding! Blah!

Honestly though, most air dry clays do shrink because of the moisture loss. Some can shrink quite a bit, but generally shrinkage is between 12%-20% and the package will usually tell you. Water based clays will shrink.

Even baked polymer shrinks a bit and varies by brand.

The only air dry clays that won't shrink will be the ones that are a two part chemical formula, like Epoxie putty or Aves Apoxie Sculpt. I know Aves has a 0% shrinking ratio, at least that is what they advertize and I've never noticed any shrinking while I'm working with it either.

 

At least paperclay doesn't bubble like super sculpy. I just baked a figure and there are sooo many bubbles both large and small that I don't think sanding will take them all out.

Does anyone have any tips for sanding paperclay so that it doesn't rip? I know to start with the coursest and work finer, but any other tips?

 

k one last ?

can any type of primer be used or does it have to be the kind used for automobiles?

can painters primer be used - as in the kind used to paint rooms and such?

ok no more ?'s

 

Far2Frail: Super sculpey doesn't bubble unless you burn it -- better turn your oven down. Unless you're seeing moonies -- little white bits in the clay, rather than raised bubbles? Super Sculpey does that a lot... and there's probably no point in sanding, sad to say. They tend to be deep, and there may be more further in anyway.

If you get some Premo, you may have better luck. It's very much like Super Sculpey, but higher quality. Also, I've heard that you should try not to fold the clay over on itself too much, since moonies are supposedly air pockets. I've also heard you should put the piece in a cold oven and let it come up to temperature.

Riven: I'm pretty sure any sort of primer will be fine. I'd do some sculpting before you buy any, though... you may not like the air-dry clay. I know some people swear by it, but if I had to sculpt in air-dry clay... well, I'd probably find a new hobby. And if you decide to switch to polymer clay (Sculpey, Premo, etc.), you won't need the primer.

 

I only use air dry clay to go over baked super sculpey to fix bumps and stuff. It's Amaco Stonex air dry clay.
Here a link:
http://www.amaco.com/prod-stonex-338.html

Why not try out what you said before and make a head 'base' out of air dry clay and wrap it in glad press n seal wrap. then go ove that with SS. It sounds like it will work well to me.

 

Hi everyone : D

I have more questions about LaDoll/Premier . When sanding the dried clay, are you supposed to wear a mask? Is the dust poisonous like resin dust?

To people who have worked with LaDoll/Premier: How long does it take to air dry O: ? What is your time limit, so to speak?

Thank you

 

Anyone? ;_;

Sorry if I sound kind of pushy DX... It's just that I have to pick a clay soon, and I'm fickle to the finest points P:

 

I already have three cans of white primer from when we painted the guest room, which is why i asked if it would work.
As for the air dry clay, i know i will love it as my previous doll (which is made from super sculpey)left my hands dead from cutting/sanding away at it.

 

After letting the paperclay set out for a few more days (gosh, it takes time to dry I suppose) it sanded really really easily for me and didnt shred or anything. However I find that it blends into itself and generally works easier if instead of just ripping a piece off the block it comes in, you knead it together first.

 

I work with the LaDoll Premiere clay, and I have to say, it's wonderful!

I can't speak for the regular LaDoll clay because I've never used it. I've also got Woodo to mix with it, but I haven't tried it yet. On my next doll, I'm going to blend it in with the LaDoll and I'll tell you how it comes out.

The doll I sculpted is just a little smaller than Bluefairy Tiny Fairies for comparison. My analysis from sculpting a completed doll from LaDoll Premiere is the following:

-It sands WONDERFULLY.
-It's VERY easy to correct mistakes. (Unlike Super Sculpey, which I have also used previously, the dried clay isn't too hard to cut/sand/etc, so things such as symmetrical differences/etc can easily be remedied after the clay is dry.)
-It's not brittle. I've dropped doll pieces onto hard surfaces BEFORE adding the modeling paste and it didn't even dent it. Granted, I didn't drop it down the stairs, but how many people drop their dolls down flights of stairs? For tumbles like having your doll knocked over, I'm confident to say that the doll should be fine. There would be no need to treat your doll like it's made of glass.

 

How many people drop their dolls down flights of stairs? One that I know of, hehe ! I wanted to see how fragile premier clay was so I tossed a part (a leg I wasn't going to use) over the ledge at the top of the stairs to the tile below and it only got a little crack in it. Call me crazy....some people do!

 

Have somebody used magic sculpt? I have some at home but is really expensive and It's gray. It comes in flesh color but I don't have that one. I worked with it to make elf ears and it works wonderfully. It looks brilliant and you can fix errors with a little bit of water before it dries. It takes a day to be completely dry. Maybe I should try to do a small doll or a head and see if it works, right?

 

ok I have another ? about the paperclay (esp. the one i'm using).

say you've messed up on molding a doll part,let it dry before you realised it and need to do it over, how long do you keep the clay in water long enough so it is workable again?

the clay i'm using is creative paperclay.

I really don't want to have to throw it away, I want to be able to use it again to remold the parts....

help please???

 

bumps i'm letting it sit in water right now, but i'm afraid of it disintegrating into the water.....

 

I'm making my first doll with Creative Paperclay. It's not bad but for anyone who has used it for a long while; can anything be put over it? Some of the posts above have mentioned that painted modeling paste over Sculpty when it's baked. Has anyone attempted something like that with Paperclay?

 

Yes, you can give it several coats of thinned modeling paste (tinted to whatever skin color you want). Since it's a polymer emulsion mixed with marble dust it's very tough and waterproof. Because it tends to be translucent in thin layers make sure your piece is an even color. I suppose you could give it a coat of gesso first (it even comes in a spray can).

Riven, sorry I didn't see this sooner (joined in March unfortunately) but if you need to reuse the clay you can just mist it or wrap it in damp paper towel and seal it in a ziplock. Soaking it in water is a good way to turn dry clay into slip (as you've probably discovered by now ).

 

Thank you so much for this!!! I really want to make my doll more stronger with a coat of something on top before painting and this information helps me a lot.

 

(As I rise from the dead of not posting in foreverz) XDD

I liked this thread because I want to use paper or stone clay for my next doll's body (I am so sick of sanding sculpey, it just takes FOREVER, and it's more expensive now than it was 10 years ago). Great info. I'm still sold on Super Sculpey tho for detail work - my hands are naturally cold and putting it in the fridge to make it cooler or doing multiple bakes is a great way for me to make detailed things like hands/heads.

I've used ALL kinds of clays in the past but not yet for a doll. I must say most stone clays shirk and crack like crazy for me, I dislike them. I've tried some high quality paper clays before and love how they sand. I'm all for trying better quality stone clays like Premier or Ladoll.

I am so getting some premier!! XD

I tried that stuff too! It's a VERY fine paperclay, it smooths great with some water and sanded like a dream with medium-fine sandpaper. I used it for some cosplay props. It's durable in large chunks (like for a torso or doll leg) but details forget it. (I'll do my hands/heads in Super Sculpey kthx).

Totally NOT meant for a doll that will not be cast (so make it with the intention of casting it, not for a OOAK artist dooll). It also needs to be sealed with gesso or a sealer before casting - as if gotten wet again even after totally drying it will slllowwllly go back to clay form. It did not shirk much or crack, and the price is right. I'll give it a go for some doll body parts next time I think.

 

I'm reviving this thread because I want to know if anyone has tried firing ladoll clay. Since it's a stoneclay I guess it's ok to fire, I'm just not sure how it'll turn out. If someone does know that would be awesome.

 

I found that my local Hobby Lobby stores sell 17oz blocks of LaDoll clay for $8.99. The bonus is that Hobby Lobby offers 40% printable coupons (go to their website) almost every week so you can get them for about $5.40 per block.

I hope this is good news for people who hate paying expensive shipping!

 

Nephyllim, I am not sure what would happen if you fired dried La Doll, but it might just burn. I know there is some portion of the clay that's kiln-resistant, but there are also a lot of binders (glue? cellulose? not sure what). I would do a little test piece first to see.

I always work with La Doll and red label Premier and I absolutely love them. I actually do make OOAK BJDs with these clays. I line the sockets with leather, otherwise you couldn't really pose the doll without ruining the finish.

I keep a small container of water, plus a tiny spray bottle (for eyeglasses cleaner originally) at hand while sculpting. The properties of the clay change so much depending on its moisture content, so I just keep it wet as long as I need to. I use wooden tools, which will very gradually absorb the moisture away as you work - which can be used to your advantage.

I add wet to dry all the time. Put a little water on the place, do a little scuffing of the surface with a pin tool, and you're ready to add wet clay.

It's very easy also carve, file and sand after the piece is completely dry. If it's half-dry, you can "tear" the leather-hard clay and cause faults that turn into cracks later.

To speed drying, I just stick the piece under a lightbulb (the old-fashioned incandescent kind that gives off heat). You don't want to lay on more than about 1/4" of clay at a time, otherwise it won't dry fully - unless you stick it in the oven, as Batchix suggests.

 

I use since 2006 for my Sculptures and yet for my BJD LaDoll Premier, that is for me the best high quality air drying sculpting mass.
hugs
bebi

 

I don't know what would happen if you fire it. Think that part of the clay would just burn. However, I do put my pieces in the oven, to speed up the drying process. My first OOAk bjd was made from la doll Premix. I just love the sculpting features of this clay.

 

fairydancer, where did you get your La Doll Premix? I've heard of this, but haven't found it yet.

 

Hi Articula,
I live in Belgium and there are already two importers for this clay here. I sell the clay in my own shop. I have a regular shop and an online shop. you can see the premix clay here
http://hetpoppenhuisje.onetoshop.nl/Product/44331/Klei/Zelfhardende_klei/Premix.htm

 

http://www.makinsclay.com/US/eng/home.htm
do anyone used it?
im just wondering..

TIA.