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Repair Advice on repairing broken resin of leg near knee joint

Feb 2, 2025

    1. So I was redressing my Sartoria J 1/4 Elf Joshua today. He'd been wearing a pair of leggings for a long time and had been on a stand for a while. I don't know when or where or how but apparently the thinner resin of his leg snapped clean off and came off with the pants. I didn't notice until I saw a piece of resin where I hadn't seen one before. It's a clean break - he can still stand, bend the knee, and function as a doll regardless. He's just missing a piece of his upper calf on the inside of his leg near his knee. His new clothes don't seem to have caught on it at all. Is it worth trying to repair it?

      I figured I would:
      1) Undress and unstring his legs (yes, they are strung separately from the rest of his body, maybe that's why this happened.)
      2) Put the two pieces together with washi tape on one side and then superglue.
      3) Reinforce with milliput putty on the inside (try to make it thin but probably going to be sanding forever).

      Does that sound like a good plan? Or should I invest in UV resin?

      Here is a photo - sorry my camera focused on my COUCH and not the actual break.
      [​IMG]
       
    2. Oh no! I'm so sorry this happened D:! I've heard that really tight stringing can cause some dolls to chip like this at the joints. I would try your 1st milliput plan over UV resin, at least the craftsy UV resin that I used before aren't very strong at that thickness. If you still wanted to try something like UV resin, I'd go for builder gel (for nails), it's stronger than UV resin, cures with UV light and you can sand it as well. Something even stronger is acrylic nail powder but then you'd need monomer(the stinkiest thing ever) to activate it and it's tricky to use - but you can find it in all sorts of colours at least so you could try to match his skin colour. These are just what came through my head, other people may have much better experience in this particular problem!
       
    3. I think you have a good way going about it!

      I agree with the above - UV resin is less strong than milliput (it's also less strong than the resin dolls themselves are cast from, which is partly also why we don't see bjds made of it). Since the joints are probably very snug in their sockets, I'd add milliput to the outside to avoid any further stress cracking, though.
       
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    4. Oh dear - the things I have done with my SartoriaJ BJDs - I must have a guardian angel. This hurts my soul for the beautiful elf boy.

      This fracture looks so harmless but the double joint makes the area a challenge. Gluing and with Milliput reinforcing would be one possibility. But it is likely to break again quickly due to the forces of the rubber when bending the leg. If you're good you could drill small holes and glue in wire pins for reinforcement.

      Or you can do it like the previous owner of my Iplehouse FID Haro. The fracture was so similar. The previous owner converted the double joint into a single joint. The joint was glued to the lower leg and the broken piece was glued to the old place.
      She is now a BJD with a disability but you can't see it unless the leg is bent too much.
      I can live with that.

      Good luck with any attempt or maybe write to SartoriaJ to see if you could get a replacement lower leg :thumbup
       
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    5. Seconding that milliput is going to be better than UV resin with the thickness you’re going for, and that you’ll want to reinforce from the outside, because the inside is a tight fit with the knee joint. I once accidentally shattered a chest piece (I almost closed a door on my hand, and the resin saved my hand very heroically) and I have a miliput repair under regular strung tension right now, that is holding up flawlessly. I made it quite thick, because there’s a lot of hollow space inside a chest joint where I could thicken the part to give it extra strength. Apoxie also works for this—I have other parts that have been modded shorter, and they’re holding up quite nicely under tension, but miliput is easier to tint for a more seamless match, and easier to sand.

      the one issue I foresee is, if you have to thicken the part a little by reinforcing the outside of the break, you’re going to lose a little bit of bilateral symmetry, because one knee is going to be a hair thicker. You could always reinforce the other side to match as a preventative for any damage like this to happen to it, or you could just have two slightly different looking knees—it probably won’t be that noticeable
       
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