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About air dry clay durability...

Oct 9, 2019

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    1. Hey! I'm attempting to make my own BJD for the first time using Premier/La Doll clay first and casting it later. The problem I'm having is trying to take out the "negative space" placeholder without destroying everything. It did not go well cutting the clay open at the sides, and I ended up ruining my work. TT___TT

      The body is around 28cm tall, so the small size might not be ideal for a newbie. But I was wondering if I could sculpt the whole thing solid and later carefully use a drill or dremel to hollow out the pieces? Is this possible with any kind of clay? Or will it crack too much??

      Otherwise, what is the best filler to use for the negative space? I've only seen examples using straws and Styrofoam wrapped in plastic wrap. Also, maybe the walls were too thin? The clay husk caved in sometimes when using an x-acto knife to stab/cut. Should the walls be pretty thick?

      I'm trying not to give up... x_x
       
      #1 moopie, Oct 9, 2019
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    2. I’m wondering the same thing so I hope there’s someone who can answer your question! :3nodding:
       
      #2 Rosenour, Oct 9, 2019
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    3. Something to consider is that the placeholder, or "core" is acting much like the inner part of the mold is going to when you cast the doll. If you are making an OOAK artist doll, this is not a problem, but when making parts to be cast you have to make sure the openings are big enough to get the mold out from the finished piece.
      Remember that you are making complete doll pieces, not just a doll shaped outer surface. Your parts should be as thick as the finished part needs to be and have the right shape inside and out.

      What materials have you been using so far? Just about anything that can be shaped into the shapes you need, can be used. Tin foil, paper, styrofoam etc. When using air dry clay you typically don't even have to worry about cemical reactions or heat resitence, so anything that you can make work will work. The smoother you make it, the easier it will be to slide it out and the less after care the inside will need to be ready for casting.
       
      #3 Lillith, Oct 10, 2019
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    4. Okay, maybe I oughta compare the thickness of my bought dolls at home. You've given me the idea of trying tin foil or foam covered in masking tape to smooth it. That'll probably make it easier to take out than a lumpy thing I was using! But I'm also gonna experiment to see if drilling through tried air clay will crack it or not. That would make it easier to make hollow parts. =_=
       
      #4 moopie, Oct 10, 2019
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    5. I made a long comment before but I suppose it wasn't accepted?
      I used toilet paper wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, and then tape. Toilet paper was easier to remove without cracking than foam or aluminum foil. I also used straws for the limbs. I made my doll in one piece at first, and she was about 35 cm.
       
      #5 heartstring, Nov 16, 2019
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    6. You can also carve the negative space for the chest and pelvis in foam and uses jumbo slurpee straws for arms and legs.
       
      #6 Hdtqw, Nov 18, 2019
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    7. Also try sculpting in layers, instead of doing it all in one go. This will minimize cracking, and maximize strength. Using something that is easy to ease out, like other people suggested is also a good bet.
       
      #7 FenrirWolf, Jan 2, 2020
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