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1916 Dress Project....(Reaserch posted)

Dec 20, 2007

    1. As most of you guys know I do historic clothing for my BJD's. This is the newest project and should go rather fast.
      1916 Day Dress as seen in "The Designers, January 1916"

      [​IMG]
      The one on the far left.....
      I have a pile of old magazines from this time period and so I was looking through for ideas and this dress just popped! I have a lovely ivory silk and a light blue silk to be the over skirt and the blouse. I have a dark blue silk satin for the trim details.

      I also found this pattern for basic undergarments in the same magazine. Instructions included! :D
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
      sorry about the large size on the last one but the deatils would have been lost. I will also need a corset. Something like this....
      [​IMG]
      from an ad in the same pile of mags. Add silk stockings and shoes and I think I will have an outfit. I have a hat in mind too!
      I'll post more as I go along with the project. I submited the grades for my students yesterday and I have to clean the house for the hoilday invasion but I hope to get some time to work on this soon. Oh and it will be SD sized with a pattern by the end of this.
      Eliz
       
    2. Oh that is wonderful! What a great project!
       
    3. This looks very interesting. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with this time ^^
       
    4. Very nice, hope to be able to look at an outfit and just create it like you one day.
       
    5. They look stunning, cant wait to see the finished article :)
       
    6. Good luck on your creation! I always thought the teens are an under appreciated fashion "era".

      I used to collect real people clothes from 1910-1920.
       
    7. I'm excited to see the beginning of this project! Especially if you get around to making that long corset. I love those so much! And I'm so jealous of your magazine collection.
       
    8. I wonder how they sat in that corset? Or maybe it wasn't boned all the way down.
       
    9. This is the real question that I am having trouble with. I think I need to see one in person....

      and the garters at the bottom seem to go through the chemise/slip? hun???
       
    10. Oh my goodness! I can't wait to see! :o
      I'm so excited I'm practically shaking! lol
       
    11. I think they just show the slip, because it would porn if they showed the ladies bare legs back then.
       
    12. The chemise goes UNDER the corset, and a corset-cover goes OVER the corset, tucked into a separate petticoat

      http://sewcreativelyyou.com/catalog.php?item=558&catid=46&ret=catalog.php%3Fcategory=46

      The "camisole" in this pattern is actually a corset cover.

      As for sitting, the boning stops just below the waist at the front and back (see where the corset changes color in those two places in the front?) and only goes the length of the corset down the sides, holding in those hips. Sitting is very stiff, and the corset itself caused the S-shape back position referred to as the "debutante sway" You either reclined on one of those chaise-lounge things with one high arm, or you sat bolt upright and rigid.

      In researching my Elemental Masters series I have learned volumes about Edwardian clothing!
       
    13. Edwardian Corset

      Has a rounded front with a split, hook-and-eye busk or one-piece steel busk to separate the bust as well as push it up and forward. Lacing is in the back. There are usually no straps. The boning is usually positioned in channels along the seam lines, about one bone every inch to three inches. The waist is cinched in very small and the corset extends to cover the stomach and hips to compress and push the hips back and out. Corset may be boned like Victorian corsets, or may include some elastic panels like future corsets.

      Very useful site:

      http://www.costumebeginner.com/corsets/contents.htm
       
    14. There are lots of pictures from the period with women perched against a window sill, say, rather than properly sitting.

      I'm thinking especially of Irene Castle, in the Castle's dance manual, which can be found at the Library of Congress website, along with a lot of dance manuals not useful for dressing the mid-1910s. ;)
      Irene Castle was a trend-setter, and tried very hard to live up to that image. So she's probably not in some 'middle of the road' cut and style of corsets from Sears, but a more extreme cut.

      Ann in CT
       
    15. I need to chech my "Waisted Efforts" Book which is the best corset construction/instruction book ever....I'll post more reserch later...
      Thanks all for the info and links.....runs off to check them out now!
      Happy holidays
       
    16. Your project is amazing, I'm also in love with historical costumes & corsets. Good luck, I'll be checking this thread often :)
       
    17. I love this period so it will be a fascinating project to follow.

      Annefia!
       
    18. so i was suppose to have three days to work on this between the x-mas invassion and the new year stuff but what-do-you-know, my two+ year old and my husband both got the flu. I'm sure to be next.... so no new work for now....oh well.
      I still have a week or so before the start of next symester and it will be a while before we get to the 1910's too.....I'll post more soon...I hope


      edit: so as soon as I had hit post on this message I head a scream from upstairs...it was naptime. I found that she had climbed out of the crib and was now completly naked and running around her room....sigh.....
       
    19. edit: so as soon as I had hit post on this message I head a scream from upstairs...it was naptime. I found that she had climbed out of the crib and was now completly naked and running around her room....sigh.....

      They do tend to do that, don't they?

      I love this idea! How fun to do the whole set from skin out, especially from this time period (one of my favorite, clothing wise). I'm looking forward to seeing the results of all this research and effort!
       
    20. I hope to be able to post to this tommarow with a velvet kimono style coat and maybe the parasol I'm working on. I still need to do a lot more work on the parasol but it is coming out nicely....the coat should be done by tommarow night and I will post photos....
      thanks everyone
       
    21. Very cool, i also have an interests with fashion from the past, as its coming back into fashion now anyways ^^

      Em xo
       
    22. You are just having too much fun with this. I love seeing how you costume your dolls.
      Susan
       
    23. Can't wait to see how this'll turn out. >w<
       
    24. Hi Eliz-Rivenstar! ;)

      Very interesting project you work on... I'm impatient to see the results!

      I suspect there's something especially tricky in making corsets reproductions that are supposed to look like the real thing, while being worn by resin dolls... 'cause real corsets are rigid things intended for modifying the body's shape, while doll's corsets need to adapt to the shape of the rigid resin body they are put on! So perhaps it could be easier, for obtaining a tightly fitting shape, to simply simulate the boning and use elastic materials instead of the materials that were used for making real period corsets... a dificult choice to make between authenticity and visual gratification! what are your thoughts about this?
       
    25. Thanks Rolland,
      as to this idea, I think that I have come to the conclusion that it depends on the corset. For corsets from the Ren to Rococo (1500-1780ish) they do need boning because of the shape which is like a cone. Its not for the waist but the the space between the bust.
      For Victorian corsets that fit the curves of the body I think that I'm going to try the proper seaming and then top stitiching the lines where the bones would go but not put them in. I will do some experiments. I am hopefully buying a Dollfie Dream (because I can't afford a muse doll right now) for the Victorian corset because their waists are soooo small. Perfect for Victorian! :)

      I've put this project off until I find my copy of Waisted Efforts. And I've been working of the Erte stuff.
      I hope to get back to it in time for the teens in class.
       
    26. Thanks Eliz!

      Best luck for your hunt for the perfect Victorian corset model! :thumbup
       
    27. that edwardian corset woulnd't have been boned all the way down. period sources are boned to about hip level and then sometimes elastic panels included.
      One i've worn that i had borrowed from someone for an event was all purely elasticated, it was old but i don't think it was period, possible later.
       
    28. I can't wait to see pictures!
       
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