Hello! My first doll is radioactive green, and after trying various methods without success, I decided to implement an experimental method. As I mentioned, it's experimental, so try it at your own risk. I'll leave my testimonial in case you decide to give it a try. MATERIALS: - 70% alcohol (from a pharmacy) - Red permanent marker - Plastic containers - Water PROCEDURE: - Remove the tip of the marker with tweezers and place it in a little alcohol for a few minutes (use the bottle cap to measure; i use only 3 capfuls of alcohol). - After the tip ran out of ink, I put it back in the marker to continue using it. -In a container that would fit my submerged doll, I poured water and the solution of alcohol and red ink. At first, I used just a little bit of the ink to test it out, but I ended up using all the ink in the water (this will change depending on the size of your doll and the amount of alcohol and ink; try it little by little). -After 10 minutes, I compared the pieces and they were better colored. I removed them from the solution and washed them with tap water, finally drying them with a towel. TRIGGER WARNING!!!! -Why red? Red on the color wheel neutralizes green. -BJD resin is porous and tends to absorb pigments unevenly, which can leave reddish spots or patches instead of a uniform tone. -Alcohol can dry out or damage the surface of the resin if submerged for too long. This is more of a "lab" experiment than something safe for your doll. It might only work if you test hidden internal parts (like inside the head or torso) at VERY low dilutions. CONCLUSIONS - I submerged the entire doll at once. I did it in parts, and the color was uneven. - The color seems much better; only a few red spots remained in a few random places. - I don't know how long this result will last, but it seemed like a good option. I'll see how it goes. before and after :
Just a heads up. It's not a good idea to soak dolls in alkohol (Isopropyl, etc.) or acetone because those act as solvents to most resin varieties. It will soften the resin and make it more susceptible to scratches and other mechanical damage.
As I understood it, that's more acetone than rubbing alcohol. Of course, I wouldn't leave them any longer than 10 minutes myself. I think a similar effect that's safer is a synthetic fabric dye in pink or red.
This is an interesting fix. I usually just brush a light coating of water colours over my dolls to de-yellow or de-green them. I like to buy older used dolls so I end up with a few that have damaged skin tones. Permanent markers are resin and alcohol based. I can see why you used that combination of the marker and the alcohol.
I never had an issue with alcohol on resin and I prefer it over anything else and I clean many dolls with it as well. Your idea and how your doll turned out is wonderful! Thank you! ❤️ Please update if you have changes over time. Thank you for posting this!
it' probably not ideal to merge resin in alcohol or acetone, but you'll never know without a test... given different resin ingredient / different storage environment. I personally would do a small batch test and observe for a few months before applying to the whole body.
Hi there, to present to you one more (and thoroughly tested) option, this is our meanwhile legendary de-zombification tutorial. It's mostly for yellowed dolls, but the principle is there and it's usable for greened resin with slight changes perhaps. (I seem to vaguely remember people have used it for greener tones too...)
I am assuming that "alcohol from pharmacy" means isopropyl alcohol? Is so, then yes, it will eventually break down the polyurethane of the doll with prolonged exposure. With something as weak as 70% that will take quite some time, though, so as long as we talk about a few minutes and not hours of soaking and the dolls has a good few hours to rest and let the alcohol evaporate before risking anything that can cause further damage, you'll probably be fine. It's resistance to solvents is one of the main things that makes polyurethane such a good material for customizable dolls, after all. A perhaps more immediate problem with this method is the fact that the ink in most "permanent" markers are not very light fast. This means that you very likely with have the exact same problem again in the near future. Another thing to be aware of is that the pigment will not bind to the doll. If carried into the polyurethane (and it might with the alcohol, that part of the logic is sound) it will stay until it breaks down, but most of it will only sit on the surface and risk staining clothes and other things that it comes into contact with. For another time, you may want to consider using a proper dye made for plastics. Many of the bigger brands of fabric dye now have options made for synthetic fibers and there is a lot of experience in the hobby using those. The potential risk of dyes taking a bit unevenly is still there, of course, but with a diluted color correction job like this, it is unlikely to be noticeable. Since the carrier is just hot water, it is much safer for the doll than the alcohol. Read around, there is a lot of shared hobby experience to revel in! I do admire your willingness to experiment. it's part of what makes this hobby so much fun.
Hello, thank you so much for your comments and concern. I'm sharing how my doll is doing after 7 months. This month I had time to do his faceup, and this is how he turned out. I don't see any change in the resin, so maybe it went well. Again, I understand everyone's concern, which is why I gave the warning in the initial post. My doll is very old, and I didn't have the necessary materials in my country, so I used what I had on hand. I'll update you if there are any changes to the method or the result. Thanks for reading.