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Suedeing, the glory! (nudity)

Feb 5, 2006

    1. OK, this really is not a question, but a statement to anyone who has not done it or is too scarred.

      Sueding is amazing, truly, it is easier than it looks and really improves the doll stability and posability.

      My hound has always been able to stand but I recently sueded him and the difference is amazing, his arms no longer just "hang there" or only adopt "hound poses" (hound owners will know what I am talking about) and it fixed his floppy belly and straightened out the crazy legs.

      And for those afraid to pull them apart here is the big secret- there is no need! You just bend the joint back so the 'socket' is fully revealed and carefully glue in around the elastic, wait for the glue to set a bit then really carefully replace the limb and it holds it in place (as long as you don't then try to pose until the glue dries)

      Now I know a lot of you already know about it but I remember being a scarred newbie who was more terrified of the restringing than of the act of glueing in the suede so this is my little act of encouragement- go for it and suede without fear you don't need to restring and since you only use white craft glue cleanup only involves water so if you stuff up it is really easy to fix it up. Believe me the fiddliness is worth it :)

      OK, her are some shots of how I positioned it inside the joints and how I folded him up to do it.

      [​IMG]

      the hips (excuse the penie)

      [​IMG]

      the dreaded Hound belly joint

      [​IMG]

      the shoulder

      I also did his elbows and ankles.

      I know this sounds weird but I actually used SUEDE to suede him, but you can use suede fabric or even velvet, as long as it has 'tooth' but suede would be best. The glue I use was standard all purpose white craft glue. *** In Australia use PVA glue, in America Elmers or Aileens***
      To keep it from showing in the joints you put it inside the socket part of the joint, with no overhang, on most joints this really isn't a problem, elbows can be difficult but try just putting it in the sides where there is a little more room. Of course using a material as close as possible to the skin tone reduces the risk of viability and you do have to use thin suede (mine was too thick, I had to split it really carefully with a razor blade and a lot of patience) otherwise you can get a bit of gape, but you can't see the sueding on my doll at all.

      ** edit to add new info***

      an interesting point brought up in this thread, CP dolls and similar double socket dolls, and the answer is treat the double socket as if it is two joints, and sued inside each socket. I really do find that on CP dolls this makes a huge difference particularly to the hips.

      I have also heard several questions in there about knee joint issues. On older type knees (type one and tow) use thin material, and make sure it is TOTALLY dry before you try to refit the joint, or plain and simply the suede will wrinkle and actually make posing worse, not better you can still do this without needing to restring, just keep the joint bound open until drying is complete. On the newer type three and Feeple body joints you will need to take even more care, and use the thinnest possible fabric as these are VERY close fitting joints, but I still suede them as if they are standard double sockets, it can sometimes make them a little more fiddly to pose, but they hold poses like champions.


      About glue type, you can use any non permanent glue that dries completely rather than staying tacky, such as PVA, Elmers, Aileen's, and the like. Glues that stay gummy or tacky will allow the suede to move around, and that is not going to help poseability at all.

      Fabric options: Use suede "rough" side out. That is what provided the traction. If you do not wish to use suede there are a lot of alternatives including pliver, vinyl, faux suede, just make sure it provides grip. Some fabrics that mimic suede do not, to test take a bit of the fabric and place the side you intend to face out against a part of the doll, press lightly with your thumb and try to rub, if it slides easily it is not going to be useful, if it wants to "stick" in place, go for it it will be helpful.
       
      • x 1
    2. what exactly is Suedeing?
       
    3. Suading is coating the inner parts of the doll's joints with thin suade fabric to help it pose, and reduce wear and tear.
       
    4. You sueded without destringing? I want to suede the torso joints of my SDC because they can get a little wild at times. Thought for sure I'd have to destring her, though?
       
    5. I just took my boys apart when I sueded them, and used string loops on the ankles when restringing my DS Hound.

      Suedeing does amazing things for posing, both for my Hound & my Dollmore Dean.

      Ann in CT
       
    6. I would like to know what you used to suede him with.
      I want to suede my hound!
      thanks for posting.
       
    7. So... yeah I've been wanting to suede my boys for awhile now. I'm not afraid to do it, I just don't know how to go about doing it. I have a sueding kit from Volks and also extra elastic for whenever I need it.

      I'm wanting to wire too.

      But question about sueding, how do you do it without having it noticable in the joint?
       
    8. that helped a lot, I was wondering if moleskin sheets would help, they are self sticky and slightly fuzzy?
       
    9. I tried sueding with moleskin and it helped a little bit, but I think is too slippery to do the job properly.
       
    10. can you use tape to? like the ones you use when you sprain your fingers? (not plastic tape but the fabric kinda tape you know >_>
       
    11. Three cheers for pliver (do a search on Ebay). Super-fine suede. I read about it here, in another post. I bought a $5 chunk of it, sueded four dolls, and have barely made a dent in the skin.
       
    12. Ahhh, I think CP boys are the -worst- for this! I think sometimes their legs are drilled a little crooked... ^^; Both suading and wiring really help, though, and you can just pull the limb back like Effigy is showing. ^_^
       
    13. I sueded my boy using fabric bandaids, and it does help on the smaller joints, like the knees, but not so much in the hips.
       
    14. I think the gum type glue on self adhesive products is not likely to stand up to the friction if you play with them much (hell it won't stay in place when I use them on blisters) so you would be better off with a wood or graft glue
       
    15. So...effigy, you just put the suede in the sockets, not on the balls of the joints? Is that correct? Thanks for the pictures. They're helpful.

      --MW
       
    16. What I was thinking, would it be more useful to put the suede on the ball? Though that might be a bit difficult. It woul, perhaps, cause more friction since the inside of the joint cavity is usually (or from what I have seen?) rough whereas the ball is smooth.
      Any perspectives on this?
      // EDIT Ann, I kind of realised this as well. I certainly want the suede to be hidden ^^;; So socket it is.

      Thanks for sharing this, now I, too, know I might even be able to do it.
       
    17. You only suede one surface, so there is one sueded and one smooth surface whichever way you go.

      I sueded the sockets of my dolls, and it worked like a charm.

      Also, the sockets tend to be more hidden than the ball in the joints. No matter where the doll is positioned, some of the ball shows, but just the edges of the socket.

      Ann in CT
       
    18. Would using glue damage the resin? I have fabric glue, which is supposed to work better for porous material on smooth surfaces. SUPPOSED TO anyway. ^^;;; Do you think fabric glue would damage the resin any?
       
    19. if it is fabric glue safe to use on nylon and polyester type synthetic fabricks it should be fine, but it does really need to be one that dries completely not one that stays sort of gummy the way a lot of fabric glues do
       
    20. I find it best to use glue specifically for Leathers. It's basically the same as elmers glue, but stronger. I've had Ghaleon sueded for about a year now using that on pliver and i haven't had any of it come out except his head, from washing inbetween face ups. The glue peels right off easily when dampened.

      I would NOT use woodglue on it. Wood glue is very permenant on things and is very hard to get off. From what I understand it's actually a type of resin, so it might bond permenantly with your doll's joints, but the leather won't... so you'll be left with a crusty mess in the joints. Sueding doesn't hold up for ever, eventually the suede gets worn smooth and thus loses it's grip. :/
       
      • x 1
    21. Aleene's Quick Dry Tacky Glue. Comes in a silver bottle at many US craft stores.
      I used this and it worked well. I also had one joint that had to be redone (I tried to use a chamois at first, and it was too thick for all but the hip-thigh socket), and it's just a matter of soaking in water for a few minutes. It's basically a more refined version of school glue, non-toxic, so I don't see how it could hurt the resin.

      ETA: My sister just reminded me that Tacky Glue is a PVC glue, which is used in book preservation. If anyone's concerned about using inert materials, it's book preservationists.
       
    22. PVA, rather? PVC is poly vinyl chloride and degrades to hydrochloric acid, which is very, very bad. PVA is poly vinyl acetate, and depending on what other crap they add to the glue, is self-plasticizing so it will be more inert than other glues. (Just for what it's worth, I've just taken some Master's level courses in book preservation materials and technologies at the University of Texas Kilgarlin Center for the blah blah blah... I don't mean to sound pompous ^_^)
       
    23. just to clarify, I state to use wood/craft glue, now by that I am distinctly referring to a water soluable or PVA type mix, not a perma bond type! think the white stuff that dries lovely and clear that they let little primary school(grade school?) kids use. In the crafting communities I have been a member of the terms I have used are the common therms, I apologise for any miscommunication which may have occurred due to cultural/lingo differences and thank Batchix for pointing it out:oops:
       
    24. Thanks to this thread, it finally got me to suede my CP El.. MY GOD! The difference is amazing! It was so easy.... Thanks for showing us that you don't have to completely unstring them to do this! That was the only thing holding me back!
       
    25. Where can I find suede thin enough to use (besides Volks)?
      Are there any shops or places that sell it?
      How thin should I get it?
       
    26. Look for pliver on ebay. It is inexpensive and works great.
       
    27. And Elmers glue will work? Or is there some special craft white glue that I should look for? Many thanks - that tutorial has really encouraged me!
       
    28. I'd suggest Aliene's Tacky Glue over Elmers...I just have the normal glue, but some people use the kind for difficult-to-bond surfaces.
       
    29. I would second Ailene's, that stuff rocks!
       
    30. I went out in search of pliver today and the closest I could come was a suede chamois (such as you might use for smudging pencils in art class). It's pretty thin, would I be able to use it for sueding?
       
    31. I just bought some on e-bay, it came a few days ago, I could give you some, or sell you some if you would like. I live south of you. Send me a PM if you are so inclined.
       
    32. Thanks for the Tutorial!

      I dont want to take my doll apart...so maybe this will help.

      Will Sueding work almost as good as wiring? Or what is the difference in the outcome of the 2?

      My Hanael needs help standing- She is so jumpy!

      I need to try something. Will Sueding help? Do you think? Her Knees are the worst spot.

      Thanks,
       
    33. yay! I got the courage to suede my doll after reading this thread, I used pliver that I bought from syrinxfox (thank you so much!). I dissasembled him though, but only because I wanted to - but not before studying the tutorial on Luts' website first;) It worked great! before, my boy (CP EL) would constantly want to bend his legs or swing forward, and his arms wouldn't pose - now I can get him to stand perfectly, touch his head, and even stand on one foot sometimes! I'm so very happy with the results!

      *EDIT* here is some pics I took during the "operation"

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]


      look at that face:blush
      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]


      then, after I put him all back together...
      [​IMG]
      he couldn't do that before, he would just swing his leg up and fall back:sweat It worked so good. Totally recommend it!!:)
       
    34. I cant believe how well this has worked! I sueded my boys knee-joints as both he and my Bee-A have problems standing. Their legs bend back at the knee, which makes it difficult to pose them with their arms held up in front.

      To practice, i used pliver from Syrinxfox to suede inside the joint (I am tempted to add another layer as the existing one is so thin) and I can now stand him with his legs straight, ergo NOT locked into position.

      I'm planning on sueding his shoulder joints, wrists and ankles as he's quite tightly strung and his joints tend to slip back into basic poses. Then its his sister's turn!

      It wasnt as scary as I thought-I did it while I was watching TV (and was pretty ill too) just bent his legs back to expose the sockets, held them there with hairbands, and used plain white craft glue to glue small squares of pliver in, as the curved strips were too fiddly.
       
    35. So....wait...sueding is NOT permanent? And school glue is okay to use on the dolls?
      I've been toying with re-stringing and wiring my girl...and previously wouldn't even concider sueding, as I thought it was a permanent thing...
       
    36. no sueding is not permanent, unless you use a permanent bond glue but i would not recommend this, particularly as the suede eventually wears out and needs replacing, but it makes such a difference to the doll's posability and manageability that I highly recommend it
       
    37. I sueded my hound over the weekend, and his torso still pops out, I even wired him and it does it....I ordered a doll armature to use also and will try that.
      But also the suede didn't stay on long it peeled right off...after it had been on for a few day...
      also, to anyone that has a hound, is the elastic in the arms alot thinner than the other elastic?? mine is..and seems stretched out...I wired his arms and its better but not perfect...
       
    38. oh thank you so much! I've always been wondering how to suede dolls. I heard that it isn't safe to suede on the ball joints, is that true?
       
    39. When I sueded my Hound, I left the sueded joints to dry overnight before trimming back the pliver and restringing (I unstrung my boy). He's been fine ever since.
      Perhaps you did not allow enough time with the joint exposed so the glue could fully dry?? The water won't evaporate through resin. :( I don't really know. Sorry.


      Ann in CT
       
    40. I just got some pliver to suede my dolls and I'm wondering---which side of the pliver do you leave exposed? Do you glue down the "suedy" part and leave the smooth part on the outside or do you glue down the smooth side and leave the suedy part outside? Thanks in advance!

      Paul
       
    41. Actually, this is Effigy's thread and not mine. I did suede my Girls and you suede the smooth part down and the more corse side up for a Better Grip. I used Elmers glue which is water based. When the pliver eventually wear out ; i will be able to easily remove and replace it. Sueding made a 100% difference on my Girls and Wiring made it 200%.
       
    42. I am sad to report that I, too, sueded my Hound, but it made almost no difference whatsoever. The Pliver I bought (sight unseen) is VERY thin, even thinner than paper. Should it be thicker than that?
       
    43. I had Great success sueding two Elfdolls and a SoulDoll. Pliver is very thin but i believe, should not be thinner than paper. Where did you buy your pliver? I have read that Hounds are very Hard to manage. It could be that sueding work better on some dolls than others. You could try to research all threads on sueding Hounds. I wish i could be more Helpful. If you have not tried Wiring; that could help.
       
    44. Thanks for your input. I bought the Pliver from a seller here on DA, but the seller was wonderful; it's not that person's fault.

      I've read everything I can find about sueding Hounds (in fact, this very thread was started about a Hound), but strangely enough, it just didn't work for my boy. I've heard mixed results about wiring, but perhaps I'll give it a try.
       

    45. two things I can suggest, I actually use real suede, not pliver, and it is thicker, which I think is important on the belly joint, and the other is that it helps, but only if the stringing is also tight enough, because it is friction based, how is your stringing? maybe giving it a tighten will help? of course wiring can help too, particularly with Hound shoulders
       
    46. When sueding, you apply Glue to the pliver and then put the pliver in the joint you are working on. You glue pliver on the joints basically the same way you would glue anything else. First line up the pliver in the joint with no glue ; just to make sure of the fit. While the glue is still wet you can slide the pliver a little for a better fit. Be sure to let the glue dry before either reassembling or letting the joint snap back into place. That is the correct pliver to use from your ebay link.I bought and used pliver from that ebay seller and was very successful with it. I Hope i have been of help. If not ask away ; i or someone else may be of Help.
       
    47. I know tacky glue is the one people use for this, Elmer's or some others.
      Here's a link that might be helpful, it's from syrinfox's thread:

      Hope that helps ^^

      PS.- I have also heard that hot glue is good too, I may actually try this on my boys! :D

      More on the hot glue here:
      http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92212
       

    48. To elaborate on what Himitsu said; i personally used Elmers white multi-purpose glue. Some sueders prefer Aileens tacky glue. Use a water based glue so the suede or pliver can easily be removed if needed. Pliver will eventually wear out and you don't want to try and remove the pliver thats bonded on with something like super glue. You would have a huge mess. You could far more easily remove and replace worn pliver using Elmers or Aileens.
       
    49. I'm a little confused by this. I've seen 2 posts where they said, make sure to glue the skin side out, which is the smooth side right? I got some pilver and one side is cottony rough the other shinny smooth, which is the skin side.. But when I look at your photo, I'm possitive that it should be skin/smooth side in and rough side out where the furry side is the teeth that grips......

      Oh boy....I'm really confusedTT.TT
       

    50. In order to get the Best results, you should suede with the smooth side in and the rough side out for a Better grip. The whole point to sueding is to grip the Ball joints on the Doll. The rough side will provde a Better Grip.
       
    51. This is sooo awesome.

      I have a DDI that just...jeesh, kicks and squirms all over the place! So, I have a question: Will this work on the vinyl body of a Dollfie Dream?

      No matter what, I can put this to good use, though! Thank you!

      -Jen
       
    52. The great thing about BJDs is that if you mess up on the sueding you can EASILY remove your work and try again. Sure, it might take time but you can get it! Think of it as bonding with your doll. I can't wait to do stuff like that to Thalia (when she gets her body in that is)...
       
    53. :? DOLLFIE DREAM I...Can she be sueded?? :? Will the vinyl work the same as the resin??

      PWEEEEASE HELP!! :sorry *_*

      Thanks!!;)

      Jen
       
    54. sorry if this sounds stupid, but can you use faux suede for sueding? i'm getting a rainy doll sooah soon, and from what i've heard they benefit from sueding, and already have a large amount of faux suede (left over from a school textiles project) and wondered if i could use that instead of buying some more expensive stuff?
       
    55. Thank you so much for posting this~~~!! I just got done sueding my Hound this morning and his "popping belly" has stopped completely. Before I sueded him, he wouldn't even stand (due to the loose hip joints and popping belly) but now he does with hardly any trouble. If this helps anyone, I used regular old suede on him. Because of the thickness, it really restrained his stomach and kept those legs from swinging around so much. Hooray for sueding!
       
    56. Thank you for posting this. The photos really do help clarify the process!

      I too would like to know if faux suede fabric, or any other non-animal based material, is effective for sueding joints.
       
    57. WOW! suoper helpfull! ^.^ i'd been toying with the idea for when my man comes but i wasn't sure how to do it ^.^; do you think its a good idea to do it right away? to help minimize wear and tear, or should i wait a while? thankies!

      -Kira
       
    58. What about tinies? Like, tiny tiny tinies. My banji's legs i think would definately benefit from sueding, BUT, surely fabric is too thick for such small joints?
       
    59. for all those who ask me about faux suede, the answer is, I'm afraid, a very vague "it depends" Real suede has a certain texture, and that is what causes the friction, however artificial sueded go for appearance, not an actual texture replication, and many of them are actually slippery, even moreso than the resin. If you get one that provides grip you should be well set, my suggestion is ti place it against the resin of your doll, apply pressure with your thumb and see if it slides, if it is "slippery" no good, if it feels like it wants to stick in place with friction they suede with confidence.

      Faux sueded may be extra beneficial with tinies, or alternately you could use the warm glue method, where you coat the inside of the joint with a thin coat of warm melt glue, wait till it dries, and then put them back together.
       
    60. first timei have heard of sueding i am really interested in doing it but just wondering has anyone sueded a volks sd and is the a considerable different in posseability ?

      thanks^^
       
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