Purposely yellowing resin?

If you put them in direct sunlight they WILL yellow, but it might not get them to the color you need...and...it's odd that the colors would be that far off if you bought them all at the same time, unless you got them second hand as the colors of BBB and RS dolls are all the same so dolls made at the same time should be really close to the same color.

Anyway...yes, direct sunlight will yellow the resin and take out some of the pink tones, but you'll want to keep a close eye on them to make sure that the yellowing is even, and is going the color you need it to, and that you don't let them yellow TOO much.

And keep in mind, that intentionally yellowing them will make it harder to re-sell them if things don't work out the way you want them to. Given, if you intend to keep them either way, then that won't matter to you.

 

If you put them near a window that gets sun for a couple of days, and then turn the dolls over for the next couple of days they will mellow and loose some of the pinkness. Colour matching is not guaranteed and mellowing will happen naturally over time. Also consider blushing the heads to match. If you bought 5 bodies, how about if you test it on just one first.

 

I've been doing this myself actually to try to get the resin to match better on my white skin doll. There hasn't been a lot of sun but I've had them on my sill for a couple of days (turning them every day and checking them) and already I can notice that the parts I'm yellowing have lost the stark whiteness.
Of course you won't be able to get them to match 100% but after that you can blush them to make it match even more.

I can guarantee that having any doll parts out in the sun will yellow them. Me and my friend accidentally left our boys sat out in direct midday summer sun for a couple of hours and we both noticed differences in the resin colour.

 

It is, as others have said, guaranteed to make them yellow, but whether or not it'll make them match the heads is another matter. generally speaking, you can take the edge off resin tone with sunshine, but the fact remains that all resin yellows differently.

Personally, I'd put up a pic request to see what colour the resin in question goes when it's yellows off, at least that way you could see what you were likely to get without actually risking a doll first

 

I have a friend who had a DZ Whiteskin MSD, and after a few months it had turned from the stark white to a much nicer pale skin tone. If waiting a few months is an option, perhaps they'll turn the color you want? I know that's unrealistic. ^^;

 

I think VIctoria Victrix has deliberately yellowed some bodies to match heads - maybe she'll pop in with more info soon.

 

This is old but I wanted to just give it a nudge for new input. I'm getting a white skin doll that I want to mellow out. Would direct sunlight be best or putting it in a very hot car (120ish degrees) for a few hours at a time? Would the heat cause it to break down? I just want to safely yellow it a little.

 

Yep! I did indeed yellow some BBBs to match DZ white. Worked very well. Would have worked even better if I had been home to pull them earlier, on my second try I got a much closer match.

I put them in a window which filters some of the UV and kept turning them until they got a nice all-over color. Pulled them out and that stopped the yellowing. Took about a month in winter; it would take less time in summer.

 

120 degrees for a few hours? I think that's how you make beef jerky. XD;; I don't think it takes THAT much to get a little yellowing, does it? Not that I know much about it, but I think I'd try just sunlight first and see what happens. You can always add, but you can't subtract.

 

I actually ran across some very serendipitous yellowing... I've have a type A NS migidoll Ryu head floating around for about a year, and when I bought his body just recently, there new resin looked WAY lighter, and I was really worried it wouldn't match. But the head had been exposed to indirect sunlight for as long as I'd had him, and it was a PERFECT match! If you look REALLY closely, the head is actually a TEENY bit more yellow than the body, but it's really not noticable at all! Thanks so much, ultraviolet rays!

I might try this as a VERY controlled experiment. Like, check the doll every five minutes to get jus tthe right tone. I dunno. I keep my dolls behind a curtain most of the time anyway.

 

Heh, never underestimate a hot, dark coloured car when the Texas sun is above and it's 100 degrees outside. xD It'd be cooler to leave it sitting out in the hot, hot sun... Maybe trying indirect yellowing in a window or something for a few days would be best? Sun it for a day, flip it, sun it for a day, see how that works...

 

YES.
I would never leave my doll under the sun here. Uh-uh, no sir-ree-bob.
It's way too strong.​

 

Looking for some input regarding this. I don't mind yellowing, it's never really bothered me. But when it is uneven, now THAT is an issue.

I recently bought a body in the Marketplace that was supposed to be "a little yellow", which actually meant "the chest and upper stomach are yellowed by the sun and a completely different color than his lower stomach, complete with a perfect 'tan line'".
The body was a great deal but that line is just unsightly. I'm not a big fan of body blushing, so does anyone know if I just draped a towel over the already yellowed part and set him in front of a window, could I get that evened out in a day or two?

 

Tbh, if I were you, I'd unstring and yellow off the paler bits seperately, no point risking making the already dark parts darker still when it could be easily avoided eh

I actually have a "boob farm" from all the girl to boy mods I've done over the years which I experiment with and I can tell you that covering resin with towels and the like merely SLOWS the process of yellowing, it doesn't stop it. Full sunshine will go right through most fabrics.

 

Getting the resin hot seems to yellow it faster. you could try putting the pieces in boiled water

 

Can't say I've noticed any yellowing from putting pieces in boiled or boiling water. You would need higher temperatures to produce serious yellowing and this is more likely to temporarily soften the resin (could also make it sag or deform or change the structure of the material), and release harmful toxic fumes. Exposing a doll or parts thereof to UV light is comparatively less harmful to both yourself and the doll. Using UV light also means you have more control over the process and can check at intervals that the colour is closer to what you wanted.

 

ing this thread to find out if a full-spectrum lightbulb will work just as well as sunlight. Its winter now.

Ryu

 

I'd like to bump this thread. I have a body coming in that I know won't match perfect so I'll have to intentionally yellow it.

 

Thanks for the bump. Made this easier to find. I've got a WS doll coming who will be in need of some high heeled feet and some extra pairs of hands, and she's an 08, so some intentional yellowing is definitely an order.
I wonder if the full spectrum light ever worked. Intentionally yellowing got me imagining dolls lying on tanning beds...

 

REviving this for input!

I have a WS DZ Tintan head, and just bought a secondhand DZ WS body that is EXTREMELY yellowed... At first, I planned to sand down the body to get it whiter, but I'm thinking I actually want to yellow the head to match the body - I kind of like the NSY look she's got going on. I've got the head in direct sunlight, but looking through the thread, it's going to take her months to mellow... Any thoughts on how to speed it up?

 

Resins are made of long polymers which are unstable when in the presence of UV light, leading to the creation of radicals (free electrons that can result in chemical reactions). These radicals can then react with nearby polymers, also contributing to discoloration in the creation of more radicals (yellowing). Although this may sound a little bad (the molecules in resin are reacting!) I don't think this process is as damaging to the resin's structural integrity as it is to the color. The reaction can look something like this:

light + resin --> resin + resin radical + light --> resin + radical + radical + light, etc.

The resin needs light to generate the initial radical, but unless the radical reacts with another molecule that creates a stable compound, the initial light exposure can create a chain reaction that continues to yellow the resin even when the resin is not currently being exposed to light. Like most chemical reactions, this process (yellowing) can be sped up with the addition of heat, as it makes it easier for the radicals to react with resin polymer.

Therefore, the best way to yellow quickly would be to get a UV light and heat the resin. However, I'm not sure how even this process would be, as only part of the resin could be exposed to the light at a time.

You can use sunlight, the light from halogen lamps, and fluorescent light to provide the UV light to yellow resin, but incandescent light will not work for this purpose, as the light emitted (wavelength) is not in the UV spectrum (fluorescent lights emit mostly visible light and heat). You could, however, use sunlight, halogen lamplight, and incandescent light to provide heat to speed up the yellowing (fluorescent bulbs are not very hot). In summary, sunlight, halogen lamplight, and fluorescent light will directly increase the number of radicals available to cause yellowing, but heat will only make existing radicals react faster.

sun: UV and heat (I think the sun generates the most UV light of all options, but the intensity and position of the light generated is less controllable)
halogen lamp: UV and heat
fluorescent: UV
incandescent: heat

It might be better to make a reverse "De-zombification serum" and stain the doll (with Rit dye, or something similar). In other words, instead of adding pink tones, as this thread suggests, you would add green and yellow dye (green to counteract the red in the resin, as they are opposite on the color wheel). The stain seems to come out more evenly than doll dyeing, and you might have better control.

 

I have a doll coming and found out today that the 'no noticeable yellowing' is actually very bad uneven yellowing with 'tan lines' where the rest of the body is much more pink. I like the lighter parts of the skin and think mebbe I will lighten the pink (is very pink, not a color I want) on purpose and then mebbe de-zombification serum to even out yellow tones to a paler normal skin tone. Has anyone done this? Is there difference from long term yellowing areas and deliberately yellowed areas when dyed? Am hoping to make her all the same amount of un-pink, think plan will be to cover already-yellow parts with heavy black plastic and tape so no light gets through, and then either UV light the rest or put in a window until it matches. Think would work?

 

[MENTION=62167]Gali[/MENTION], I had a doll in essentially the same condition here--advertised as "no noticeable or even yellowing," but arriving with bad uneven "tan lines." Because of the "fuzzy edges" on those tan lines, rather than trying to do any sort of recoloring (deliberate yellowing or dezombification), I ended up just sanding the entire surface of the doll. Under that first extremely thin layer, everything's the same color; what little I couldn't take care of due to sculpted detail got hidden with a bit of creative blushing. (I did have to replace his hands, but it's possible a bit of dezombification could bring them back to his current color.)

If you have more crisp tan lines, you might be able to even the color out, but it's going to be a definite challenge to not end up with either a pale or dark line across where the current tan lines stop. So definitely keep that in mind as you make your plans, and good luck getting your new arrival looking like new!

 

I'm not sure which is better, the fact that you use those leftover resin bits to experiment with permanent stuff like this, or the fact that you call it your "boob farm!"

 

@vicemage: Here is a picture to show the divide. Am not sure sanding will work, since is a very small doll (SOOM Faerie Legend, so size of Barbie) and legs are not so big. Is going to be a challenge to make it all the same color no matter what I do, I think. (Seller sent me photos to show the damage areas of discoloration.)

 

[MENTION=62167]Gali[/MENTION], the amount of sanding to do is actually very minimal, but it may be a task on such a small doll regardless. Good luck with whatever you choose to do with her, that's definitely a drastic difference!

 

I have a ResinSol Mei in white skin that was already a few years old when I got her. I love the buttery colour that eventually comes with white skin dolls so while I haven't been putting her in direct sun light I really don't put her away too much either. Honestly I think she looks gorgeous and fantastic.

 

I received a Resinsoul Gang body in normal skin for my Ninodoll Um.Pyo head recently and the resin match is horrible. But it was a gamble anyway because Resinsoul/Bobobie seems to fluctuate in their NS tones. The body is a very pale pink and the Ninodoll head is way more yellow, it was described as a Volks Oldskin match. I've been looking for a body for my poor floating head for a few years now and I'm determined to make this combo work! So I've decided to intentionally yellow the Resinsoul body in the sun, leaving the parts unstrung and turning them evenly. I hope this works, I will post pictures when/if it's finished!

 

try uv light blub, those meant for aquarium.

 

I've done something like this. I took an Iplehouse Asa head in WS and intentionally exposed it to sunlight for a short period of time (about 20 hours total, with regular rotation of the piece to get even coverage) to break down the red pigments in the resin. I did this because the Iplehouse WS is pink-tinted, and I was putting the head on a Fairyland WS body, which is well known for being more of an almost-paper-white that mellows over time to a creamy color (it yellows with age). It worked quite well, and while the head and body aren't a perfect match, they're now much closer.

 

When I got Muninn, my "project doll" SDF Bliss, he had terribly broken hands (I'm talking "missing at least a couple of fingers each"-broken) and some really ridiculously uneven and extensive yellowing. Sanding the entire doll and then giving some parts of him a couple of Oxy dips took care of a lot of the unevenness, though it didn't restore his original color.

I had to get him completely new hands, though, and THAT was an adventure.
He wasn't white enough for Luts BW, and was far, far more faded than the pink tone of their NS when all was said and done.

I ended up putting a brand new set of NS hands on ribbons and hanging them in my East-facing kitchen window for a couple of weeks. I turned them every day so the fronts and back would yellow evenly, and took them down when they seemed to be about as close to the color of his forearms as they were likely to get. That was a few years ago, and now both his body's resin and the new hands seem to have stabilized at about the same point. (Looking at him, you'd probably assume he started out as a BW. There's almost no red pigment left in his resin at all.) They're a good enough match to pass for his originals.

 

I'm back with pictures. My "tanning" of my Resinsoul body was a success! It took about a month with almost daily sun/daylight exposure but it would probably go a lot faster in a warmer climate with more sun than here in Germany. We didn't have a lot of sunny days the last few weeks and the resin colour didn't change drastically but I noticed a very fast yellowing when I left the (unstrung) body laying in the full on noon sun (around 30°Celcius) so I guess the yellowing is more attributed to heat than UV rays. Anyway, I am very pleased with the result, hopefully you can see the difference in the pictures, unfortunately they don't show the resin difference as drastic in the 'before' picture and more drastic in the 'after' one.

Before (Resinsoul normal skin body & Ninodoll 'Volks Oldskin' head):

[/URL]Before Yellowing by Zomboid, auf Flickr[/IMG]


And after:

[/URL]After Yellowing by Zomboid, auf Flickr[/IMG]

[/URL]After Yellowing by Zomboid, auf Flickr[/IMG]

 

Zomboid: Oh wow, the "after" made quite a difference! I wouldn't have guessed that the body was from a different company.

I'm in the process of trying to yellow a ns body right now to match an head. I've had it sitting in front of my window these past few days. So far, all I seem to have accomplished is making the body lighter, which wasn't quite what I was expecting. I'm hoping that as the yellowing begins to develop, the overall color will darken. It's been a pretty chilly, lousy summer thus far (temperatures have rarely gotten above 20 Celsius) so the process could take awhile.

 

Yes, the pictures make it seem more like a difference, in real life you would think the body was from the same company as the head! I think the 'yellowing' process is more like a loss of pink/red pigment than actually turning yellow, so your body turning lighter makes sense. But don't lose hope, my Resinsoul body didn't show any difference in colour for about two weeks and then it drastically changed when I let it lie in the direct sun. If you have the chance, let it lie in direct sun outside, not through a window. The hotter, the better. And if you don't want any "tan lines" on the joints, keep the body parts unstrung. But be careful to turn the parts evenly and don't create any shadows on them, it does make a difference! What company is your NS body from if I may ask? Please share a picture if you can, I am very interested in other people's yellowing experiences.

 

Thank you, Zomboid! I will try taking the body outside today to see if that speeds things along. The body is from impldoll (normal pink), and the head is from be with you. Here is what he looks like right now after a couple weeks of standing in the window sill with rotations every few hours -- its a bit difficult to tell from the cellphone picture, but the head is still quite yellower than the body.

 

I don't know about full-spectrum bulbs (if it was intended as a full-spectrum bulb for animals, potentially, because a lot of those are designed for animals that need serious uvb, like chameleons.) But I work at a pet store, and we have bulbs designed just to put off uvb, as either bulbs that you'd put in a lamp, or fluorescent tubes. The strongest ones are 10.0, which are supposed to be comparable to the uvb you'd get in the desert. for something a little less intense, 5.0 is what I have on all my lizards, but I've never tried it on dolls.

 

*Pull the thread out of nowhere*
I previously receive the Soom Little Gem Blossom Bust Part for my (old) creamwhite Nodia because i itended to yellow it via sunshine.
I placed it on the edge of a flower pot on my (inner) windowsill (only get the sunshine from a bit after noon till sunset) for more than 3 weeks and it really works perfectly! I just need a liiiiiiiittle bit more to be 100%, but i'm near 90% from the new creamwhite (or rather white) to the old creamwhite! Woohoo! My Nodia gets boobies!

 

I am getting very frustrated with my yellowing experiments.... I have had one set of Fairyland NS hands on my windowsill for almost 6 months now AND THEY HAVEN'T YELLOWED AT ALL! They are a pair of 2014 hands I've been trying to match to a 2012 body but I am just getting no where.... I recently also received a new chest piece for a doll that is a year old and I am trying the window method again but it has been 4 days and I'm seeing NO CHANGES. I was always afraid that any sunlight would instantly yellow my dolls but now that I want them to yellow there is nooo channgeee.
Does anyone think that a bulb would really make a difference compared to direct sunlight? It is very cold here so perhaps the cold by the window is preventing the yellowing? Perhaps the hear from a bulb would help it along?
Any thoughts are very welcomed.

 

How new is your house? Most newer ones have windows that block uv, which is likely why they're not yellowing. I'd grab a 10.0 uv bulb from a pet store (it's supposed to emulate desert uv for reptiles) if you want quick yellowing. I've never tested it though.

 

The house is at least 40 years old but, I think I'll try getting a light still because I am just not seeing the results as it is now. It's at least worth a shot!

 

If the windows were replaced recently (or even semi-recently) they might block uv.. But the light keeps the chameleons happy, so it's worth a shot..

 

Unearthing this old thread in case someone has tried using a UV lamp in the meantime and can share their results.