Boy to Girl Mod Tutorial [Nudity] [Complete] [Pic Heavy]

Hello! This is the first boy to girl modification tutorial that I am aware of that involves "additive" modification. If you do not wish to add to your doll, there are other tutorials that involve sanding away the chest to create breasts.

First, a little background. I wanted to modify a boy body into a girl body because the concept of my doll is that she is a Takarazuka actress who plays male roles. She will have a female partner, which meant I needed a doll who was tall and relatively masculine. Two female dolls would have been too similar in terms of height, so I chose a boy sculpt and knew I'd be modifying it. Now that you know the why, on to the tutorial! This is a three part tutorial. First, I sculpted the breasts. The genitalia would be easy to remove, and if any part of the modification wasn't going to work, it was going to be the breasts, so I decided to get the iffiest part over with first.


Here are most of the materials I used.
Cling Wrap
White Sculpy
Sculpting Tools (I happened to have a set of clay sculpting tools. Substitutes could include a butter knife, a knitting needle, some wire looped around, etc.)
Apoxie Sculpt Super White (I got 1/4 lb and had TONS left over, but I was making small breasts. I still think 1/4 lb should be enough for almost any project.)
Smoothing Solution (free with my order)
A Bowl of Water
An Electric Scale
Cue Tips
Lots of Paper Towel
A Doll (in this case, Angell Studio Lucifer Double Jointed Body, white skin)


Here is a picture of the "before". There were light lines in the scupt and blushing that helped me position the breasts, though it's difficult to see on this picture.


As you can see, the male sculpt is fairly feminine to begin with. I LOVE this body, it was perfect for my purposes. It also poses beautifully, in any pose I can dream up. I wanted small breasts, because they have to be hidden under male clothing, and I didn't want pointy small breasts for the same reason. It may be less realistic, but I decided to sculpt relatively flat breasts, as if they were being pushed down by clothing.


First, I wanted to make a test pair of breasts. This would help me decide how large, where to position them, what would look good, and give me practice sculpting them (because I haven't exactly had the opportunity to sculpt breasts before). So I covered Lucifer's torso with cling wrap, and taped it over his shoulders so it wouldn't move. I just put one layer over the chest, and wrapped the rest around the stomach to keep it tight.


The white sculpy was really hard to work with, but it gave me the general idea. By using the cling wrap, I kept any sculpy residue from getting on Lucifer's body. I tried baking it, thinking I could make a mold from them--this does not work! They won't keep their shape or size as they bake. However, purely as a method of seeing a physical form of the concept, making sculpy versions first was well worth it.


Another view of the sculpy breasts. There was another useful reason to make sculpy ones first, and that was that I could weigh them to have an idea how much Apoxie to mix up. I decided these sculpy breasts were a little too large, so I would use the EXACT same amount of Apoxie, and when I shaped them and smoothed them, I would have slightly smaller breasts.


I weighed each section of Apoxie at 8 grams (16 total) which was equal to the 16 grams of sculpy. Edit: Apoxie is measured by volume, not weight. I weighed them as an approximation only. Measure volume is possible. Using this weight method did not have any adverse effects, but twigling notes that it could prevent the Apoxie from setting properly or leave you with uneven amounts of Apoxie left over. My two containers were almost equal in weight, so this way worked for me. Please use your best judgement.
If you want to tint your Apoxie, now is the time to do it. Add acrylic paint, shaved pastel, or another color of Apoxie Sculpt to the white portion of the Apoxie until it matches the resin you're adding it to (check other tutorials on this point, because I'm not sure the best way to tint). Lucifer is a white skin, but the Super White Apoxie is whiter than his skin. I didn't want to tint with anything, because I planned on blushing to match instead, and it was too difficult to tell exactly what color I would need to add.

Once you are done tinting, if you did, mix the two equal portions of Apoxie together. The grey part disappears completely, leaving a bright white ball. It's very sticky, and sticks to your fingers. At this point, you're going to be using your bowl of water, cue tips, and sculpting tools. Apoxie WILL clean up with water, IF you clean it up soon enough. If some gets on other parts of the resin, on your tools, clothes, fingers, or anywhere else, clean it up with water within a reasonable amount of time. It takes 24 hours to set completely, but I imagine less than that to become permanently bonded with your clothes or tools, so once you're done, clean everything up.

I returned to the scale and split the Apoxie until I had two equal balls, one for each breast. I rolled them as symmetrically as I could, then stuck them on the chest. I flattened, shaped, carved, etc. until I had the very general shape I wanted to end up with. Because the Apoxie is so sticky, I didn't do any of the fine detail, but I wanted it firmly stuck on the chest within the first hour, in roughly the same shape I would end up with.


Here is the rough shape. Dip your fingers in the water and scrub off the Apoxie when it gets too sticky, and do some preliminary smoothing with just water. I used wet cue tips to clean the water and Apoxie from parts I didn't want it on. Cotton balls and paper towel were too large. However, keep the paper towel handy to keep your fingers clean.


Apoxie Sculpt holds fingerprints really well, as you can see. Once you have the rough shape, leave the breasts alone for about an hour. (Sometime during hour 2 after you mixed the Apoxie.) When they set up more, wrap your finger in cling wrap, then dip it in the special smoothing solution (if it came free with your order) or water. I honestly didn't notice any difference between the special stuff and the water. Smooth the breast surface, making sure there are no fingerprints. If Apoxie sticks to your cling wrap, wipe it off with water and paper towel, and just keep smoothing until they're perfect.

If you are sculpting nipples, you can use your tools now to carve them out (use your butter knife to flatten around the nipples so they stand out), or you could add them with actual Apoxie before the smoothing process. I think adding them would be more difficult than carving them a little after the fact. I'm only going to be blushing them in with a little gloss to raise them up, because perky nipples tend to stand out against clothes.

Make sure the breasts are exactly as you want them to be, because after they're smoothed, we're leaving them alone for 24 hours.


And here they are! No blushing yet (AS blushes the bodies very pink, the actual skin tone is closer to the white, which makes it easy to blush) because I don't have MSC yet. It's on its way!


And here is a side view. They are virtually invisible under Lucifer's shirt, which is what I had hoped for, and they look fairly natural from all angles (except the color, of course, and lack of nipples). They are just as shiny as his/her resin, so I'm going to avoid sanding them. Another option for nipples is to sand them in once the Apoxie has set. Other resins are less shiny, and the Apoxie can be sanded to match them.

Part 2 of the tutorial will be the genitalia mod. Part 3 will contain blushing, final pictures, and anything last minute that I can't predict. I am borrowing a respirator from a friend, so I can't continue with part 2 until I get the respirator, since it will involve sanding resin. Part 3 will be posted once the MSC arrives.

 

The tools I used to remove the boy bits and shape the girl bits:
Dremel
Belt Sander
Sand Paper (100, 150, 400, 600 grit)
Doll's Lower Torso
Respirator
Apron
The Great Outdoors
Faucet
My Dad


I originally tried removing the boy bits with a razor (I tried two different razors, actually), but was spectacularly unsuccessful. I'm not going to be paranoid about this doll getting scratched, because a razor and intent barely put a dent in her/him.

Then I called in my dad, who has a dremel. If you have one and know how to use it, that's amazing. If not, find someone to borrow it from. Otherwise, this will be a ridiculously time consuming project! Sparrow says that a really high grit sandpaper will also do the job but take time.

Safety first! As you probably already know, resin dust particles are poisonous. You MUST have a respirator. A dust mask will not work, a surgical mask will not work, some gas masks will not work--check and make sure that your respirator is certified for resin. Once you have a respirator (if you have a friend who works in a car shop, their spray paint respirators will probably work, most construction companies have respirators...see if you can borrow one, and if not, invest in a good one!), and have it strapped on securely, you're ready to begin. I also wore an apron to keep the dust off my clothes, and I did all my work outside. It was very cold, so there aren't any pictures of the actual work, just the results. Don't sand resin indoors, and sand it away from pets or areas of the outdoors where pets frequently play. Better safe than sorry!

Okay, back to the project. I drew in pencil where I wanted my dad to cut. I recommend using those guidelines! Especially if you are doing it yourself. The dremel cut through the resin pretty easily, and a slip of the hand could be disastrous. The dremel is a rough tool just to get the largest chunk of resin off. Here are two pictures of the results:


You can see that it does a really rough job, no finesse...but sanding it off without the dremel would have taken a day or more.


You can see where dad slipped and the resin was gouged at the top. It was all a raised area, so I could sand it down easily, but be very careful!

After the dremel had removed the largest bit, I used a belt sander to sand the testicles and the gouge. There was too much resin to remove with sandpaper, and the belt sander made quick work of it, so I recommend using one if you can. I don't have a picture of this result...it was pretty uninspiring anyway.

Once the belt sander had the genitals in the general shape I wanted, I used the 100 grit sandpaper to shape more finely. Then I used 150 to get the big sandpaper scratches out, and 400 to even and smooth things. Finally, I used 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper under the faucet to get the smooth look I wanted. I didn't have a female doll body to use as a model, but took a guess at what her genitals might look like. Here is the smoothed result:


(She's hot glue sueded, that's the stuff in her joints, plus a grain or two of sand from the sandpaper.)


It's far from perfect, but it's relatively even and looks like girl bits. I sanded down the sides a great deal, because the testicles had actually impeded range of motion. If you chose, you could also sand with 800 grit, but the 800 grit I bought was leaving really ugly red streaks on the resin, so 600 was as high as I went. I then went over it with a Magic Eraser, checking for little scratches and sanding them out more carefully.

Sanding down the boy bits and shaping the girl bits took off a lot of resin, but the lower torso is just as sturdy as before. If you want to do a project like this, make sure your doll has the resin to spare! The Angell Studio body had a lot of extra resin down there, so it was no problem, but I'm not sure about other bodies.

I washed the apron carefully outside, and left my respirator on until I went back inside. Remember to be careful! Even if it's just a little sanding, resin is toxic.

Once the genitals were modified, Lucifer was totally female and became Lyra.

Please share your suggestions or comments, I would love to hear them! If there is any really applicable advice, I will share it in the third post (with due credit) so that anyone accessing this tutorial can see it easily too.

 

Lyra was sent away for a color match on the Apoxie and resin with a talented airbrush artist, Sour_Dotz. She also did the hand design, pedicure and manicure, and full body blushing (I requested very subtle) to match the brown tones in the faceup. Here are some final pictures!





Lyra is complete!


Thank you for viewing my tutorial! If you have questions, please feel free to post here, or PM me for a faster response!

 

I'm not planning on it. Since they need to be flat under clothing, I'm just going to blush them on, then use a drop of gloss to add dimension. Basically, that's how Lucifer's nipples were before the mod. I may have to alter that later, but that's the plan for now.

 

Okay. I went home this weekend for Easter and had some time to work on Lyra, and discovered that I don't have the tools or skills to blush her properly. I did end up sanding the apoxie to even it out a little, and I tried blushing with pastels and couldn't get a good look or even a decent match in color. I suspect that the torso will need an airbrush blush instead. So, for you experienced modders out there, I have two questions.

1.) Is an airbrush blushing more likely to result in a better mesh between apoxie and resin, due to its fuller coverage nature?

2.) If the answer to the first question is yes, can you recommend any airbrush blushing commissionable artists? If the answer is no, can you recommend any pastel blushing commissionable artists who might have better luck (due to more experience) than I did?

Thank you for your help!

 

I knew it was by volume, but I'm really bad at judging volume. I weighed both containers individually first, and the difference in weight was negligible, so I thought I could be most accurate by weighing the parts. If using larger containers or more of the stuff, it might be a bigger issue, but with the small amount I used for breasts and the fact that the two containers were almost identical in weight, I thought it would be okay to weigh the parts. Thank you for pointing this out, though. I will put a note in the tutorial itself. The Apoxie I used cured well, but others might have different results.

 

Alright! Final blushing pictures are posted, and this tutorial is complete! Sour_Dotz is the artist who did the color match, and an exceptionally fine job she did. On some pictures, there is a line between the modification and the resin, and that was my fault. I couldn't feel a transition line with my fingertips, but there was enough of one that it shows up a little. The major problem I ran into while sanding was that the resin was sanding down faster than the Apoxie, so I was really worried about sanding too much. Overall, I'm really pleased with how it turned out. If anyone uses this tutorial to modify their dolls, please post pictures! I would love to see how others' results are!!

 

Sorry for the late reply! I forgot to keep track of this thread...

She is modeled after Mizu Natsuki of Snow Troupe. Specifically, her rendition of Der Tod, but that's changeable.

I used Apoxy Sculpt Super White, and had a professional airbrush the color to match. The white was close to the white skin, but it needed just a tiny bit of color to match, and the pastel was too much. Airbrush was much better. There are many commissionable artists who can do resin matching.

 

Thanks for the compliments everyone, and glad I could help. I hope your mods all turned out the way you wanted them to! =^.^=

olga614933, I chose a male doll originally because I needed a masculine, manly built doll. He had to be taller than the feminine female partner. Do you know of any female dolls which have a manly frame, or a relatively masculine build? I looked but this was the best solution. I love my Lyra, and I could never find a female doll that could be the same as she is. ^_^ I know others feel the same, and I'm grateful they found this tutorial to be helpful.

 

I think that sanding away the rest of the body to leave breasts could be well done, but the few I've seen on this forum did not appeal to my tastes. I vaguely recall one where the ribs and clavicle looked sunken in, because in order to sand enough to get breasts to stand out, way too much resin had been taken away. Adding these was quite simple. If I were to do it over again, I would have shaped them differently. I wanted them to be the shape they would be if smushed under a constricting breastband, but they don't look very beautiful that way. She's not naked often, though, so I think it works. ^_^ I would also advise making sure that you SMOOTH the apoxie to blend with the resin. I was worried about the working time, and told myself that I could sand it later...but the resin sanded more easily than the apoxie, so I wasn't taking off apoxie, I was making the gap bigger. (This entirely depends on the resin of your doll! I've noticed major differences in sanding between companies' resins.)

It's so much fun to look back on this project...if only I could afford the ostrich feathers to finish her grand costume... -_-