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Resin + MSC + Cleaning solutions. Tested methods for face-up removal

Oct 9, 2008

    1. Sucessfully chosing a solvent to remove face-ups, body blushing and or other paint-work from your doll.

      *Current as of April 2024*

      This information has been compiled based on my 23 years in Super Yacht Industry, 18 years as a resin doll-owner, 27 years in porcelain, and celluloid repair/restoration. This information is compiled as a guide only. I spent many hours with Professors from Tech College in casting classes, courses in plastics, polymers, resins and fiberglass, to ensure the accuracy of this information. The rating; is based on my personal experience and from facts about the chemicals in use.

      SAFETY FIRST: Only use ONE type of solvent at a time before trying another, wash and dry the doll first. Work in a well ventilated area, protect your clothing, skin, eyes and lungs with safety gear.

      About Resin: Resin is porous and variables must be considered such as the brand, the surface finish and especially the products you are removing. The following is general information based on what reacts with polyurethane resin (not epoxy resin!).

      ALWAYS do a patch test first; either inside the head-cap or on the inside of the torso piece, for smaller dolls the soles of the feet are a good place to test.


      Product: Pure Acetone
      Where to buy it: Hardware stores are the only place that sell pure industrial acetone - marked 99.8%-99.9% Acetone. Anhydrous Acetone is pharmaceutical only as residual water has been eliminated.
      Correct usage: Applied using cleaning pads/cotton cloths. Do not apply using a Mr Magic Eraser. Acetone in its commercial form evaporates quickly and when used correctly the most efficient and safe way to strip the doll of sealant as no chemical residue remains. This is the preferred method of removing face-up by professional face-up artists.
      Rating: 10/10 the fast and complete evaporation makes this a logical option when used correctly by any level of experience.
      Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Use in a WELL VENTILATED AREA AND AWAY FROM OPEN FLAME, no kidding its flamable, if additional explanation is required see the MSDS snd TDS of your product!!! Damage can occur if you've left a part soaking in Acetone - acetone will soften resin, using excessive (or any) force if the resin is soft can cause gouges, tears, dents, pitting and abrasions. Colour changes can occur with some colour/tan pigmented resins - as with all solvents; color fastness tests always should be done. A shiny surface after removing the sealant is a indication the sealant was used to create a matte finish - this is normal with some companies and will differ between molds and castings.


      Product: Nail Polish Remover
      Where to buy: Pharmacies, Drug stores, Supermarkets, Beauty Salons
      Correct usage: Use sparingly with your choice of pads, brushes, q-tips (cotton tips) sponges etc... Requires soapy wash and clean water rinsing as Non-Acetone nail polish remover can leave a residue preventing proper adhesion of further sealant. Always use a near-colourless liquid (pale pinks/ light purples or clear and the better options) and that it is oil-free.
      Rating: 4/10 there are really too-many variables that make this a volatile "hit and miss" product - If you find a brand that works stick with it.
      Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Using Nail-Polish remover with moisturizers, oils or vivid color can damage the resin by staining, avoid red-tints and bright blue tints. Soaking *can* have the same effect as pure acetone. Using Nail-Polish remover is not an exact science as all brands use different chemicals, always check the bottles contents and avoid anything that contains: oil, hardener, aloe vera, essential oil, fragrance, coloring. Some darker/colored pigments may be adversely affected; this is company specific.
      Brands to look for: Rite-Aid, Sephora, Cutex.


      Product: Isoprophyl Alcohol 70-99%
      Where to buy: Drug stores, pharmacies, supermarkets etc...
      Correct usage: Apply generously with your choice of sponges, cotton pads and other clean applicators, requires several applications with clean pads to be totally effective. Alcohol should not affect resin pigments *this is dependent on doll make. Wear gloves as alcohol is readily absorbed by your skin, unless you want to get inebriated... GLOVES ON!! And No Vodka wont work... at all ;) LOL
      Rating: 5/10 Ineffective at completely dissolving Mr Super Clear or Zouks Spray, good for removal of surface grease/dust or marks from handling, requires additional effort to complete the removal of sealant.
      Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Unsealed paintwork or blushing can be removed with Alcohol unless it has permeated the resin. Its difficult to damage a doll with Alcohol, repeated or extended use over an extended period of time could cause the resin to become brittle, Allow any (short-term) softening of your dolls resin time to re-harden before you attempt any work on the doll.
      Brands to look for: Walgreens Apocothary (91%), Swan Brand (99%), AAPER (industrial brand 99.5%), Spiritline (97%), Proctor & Gamble (98%), Helmar's (99.7%) Rubbing/Sports alcohol (like Isocol) is 70% will remove minor grime.


      Product: Solvent Based Brush Cleaner/Thinners
      Where to buy: Art Supply stores, hobby shops some hardware stores
      Correct usage: Use as you would with acetone and be certain to thoroughly wash with soapy water and rise well in clean water. Be certain to CLEARLY read the labels. Any thinner with oil as an ingredient is less suitable - look for thinners with "solvents" such as ethanol (alcohol). Same with brush-cleaners be certain to use only acrylic paint products. Personally I don't recommend thinners or brush cleaners as they do not evaporate off and require significant washing after use.
      Rating: 2/10 it may work. But not what it was designed for.
      Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Do not leave your doll parts un-washed after using this to clean them as some brush cleaners contain preservers and conditioners to prolong your brush life, if left on the resin for an extended period it could cause permanent damage. Avoid anything containing organic oils such as orange oil as you risk staining. Some have reported a sticky surface after repeated use. Personally I wouldnt use it on a doll EVER as brush cleaners are designed to break down polymers.
      Brands to look for: I do not recommend any.
      Winsor & Newton - the ingredients in W&N have changed three times in 15 years and are undisclosed excluding the reportable flamable ingredient ethanol. It has been used sucessfully by some members. I advise strongly against it on the grounds that it has destroyed brushes and a test resulted in damaged resin.
      Mr Colour Thinner** this is a minor exception to the rule and a solid 6/10, after a suggestion from a fellow member I've convluded my testing on Fairyland, Volks, Dollzone, Custom House, Twigling, Dollkot, Soom, Iplehouse and Dollshe - all were safely cleaned of faceup and sealant eventually. Acetone was used to conclude the process and remove residual product.

      Product: Magic Eraser Sponges
      Where to buy: Safeway, Coles, Woolworths, Overwaites, Walmart, Michaels or any store that stocks household cleaning products
      Correct Usage: Simply use a bowl of clean water and "elbow grease" - Magic erasers are a micro abrasive sponge made from melamine fiber. It can remove surface dirt and like flexie sandpaper will remove the bulk of a face-up with consistent use. It can be difficult to get into tight spaces and may not remove ALL the face-up but could potentially reduce the use of chemicals in the removal process. After removing the bulk of the face-up with an eraser sponge you can use a q-tip to remove remaining paint with a chemical solvent. Very good for light cleans - such as removing dirty marks from headcaps and light fingerprints from face-ups.
      Rating: 5/10 effective in removing some of the sealant/face-up/blushing - similar to using an ultrafine sandpaper.
      Incorrect Usage/Possible Damage: Do not combine the sponge with ANY chemical solvents, they were not intended for this purpose and is a waste of money, if you're using a chemical solvent use an appropriate clesn pad/cloth/rag. You cannot damage your doll with a Magic Eraser with normal use, however you COULD injure yourself if incorrectly used. As it is an abrasive sponge, using it with a chemical solvent in place of water can lead to abrasions and friction burns on your hands as well as other unpleasant reactions between the melamine and the variety of solvent.
      Brands to look for:
      Scotchbrite, Chux, Mr Clean, Britex, Scrub-It, Genuine Joe, Daiso etc

      AVOID THE FOLLOWING:

      Goo-Gone/Orange Oil/Citrus stain removers/Mr Orange: In my tests these HAVE damaged resin.
      Kerosene/Turpentine: Both can potentially permanently stain with oily marks, and will leave an odor that is difficult to remove. Chemically they are not suitable solvents to dissolve Testors, Mr Super Clear or Zouks Sealant.

      *Note to quote Face-up Artist Evenstar "Some People have advocated using W&N Brush cleaner as a "safe" alternative to acetone - I STRONGLY advise against using this product on resin."
       
      #1 whitewings, Oct 9, 2008
      Last edited: Apr 9, 2024
      • x 8
    2. Before anyone goes gung-ho into cleaning a face-up off DO THIS:

      1: Identify what you are cleaning off and read-up on other experiences on cleaning them off. If its unusual (nail varnish for example) take the time to ask for help and assistance from members in the forum - that's what its for. (Send a cyber slap to anyone using nail polish on a BJD too!)

      2: Choose the right solvent - alcohol wont remove oil-based paints, and acetone isn't always necessary if the face-up is only water based and not sealed....

      3: MAKE THE TIME to go from start to finish with time to spare - accidents happen when you rush and you'll usually regret it if you do. If you have to be at a meet or mail a doll out, a gentle wipe with a clean damp cloth is far more sensible than damaged resin!

      4: Set yourself up correctly - this means have everything on hand to do the job, your chosen solvent, face-mask, plenty of cotton swabs, q-tips and toothpicks for tiny crevices, clean rags, clean paper towels, soapy water for washing and a large CLEAN space to place each piece you are cleaning.

      AND

      5: Remember these are dangerous chemicals doing a job, whilst its fun to do always be aware that you are handling products that can cause damage to you and your body so treat them AND yourself with care and respect at all times.


      MORE USEFUL INFORMATION

      Clarifying usage of Acetone and Mr Magic Eraser sponge: The chemicals I am referring to in the sponge itself are: formaldehyde-melamine-sodium bisulphite copolymer which is in "laymans" terms the technical term for the abrasive fibres. When used together the risk of causing micro-abrasions on your skin and chemical inclusion is increased. The acetone will not melt the sponge. The effectiveness of the abrasive melamine sponge IS marginally increased by the use of a solvent, however the possibility for personal injury negates this tiny increase in potential.

      Only ever use the Magic Eraser sponges with water - they were designed specifically for that purpose to cut OUT the use of chemicals in a safe manner.

      Frequently asked questions...

      Q: I'm using a nail-polish remover with a tint, will it stain?

      A: Yes It is possible - Anything with red, yellow or blue tints are more likely to stain than green or purple tinted, I'm not entirely sure why, it is something to do with the pigments used. I have noted that depending on the country the manufacturer the colour additives have different names, Yellow #5 and Red #3 can also be labelled as FD&C Red and FD&C Yellow, this basically means they are compliant with safe use on and around humans, thought depending on the saturation in the products, most colors can stain your doll.

      Q: What is the ingredient Bitrex/Denatonium Benzoate
      A: Denatonium benzoate is a chemical flavour added to products used in and around the home - it is used in infinitely small proportions and triggers the human gag reflex making it near impossible to accidentally swallow whatever it is dissolved in. It will not hurt resin in any way shape or form but will leave residue on your skin, IF you use a product containing DB - WASH your hands or your food is going to taste like crap for a week!!! (Fun Fact - recently some button battery manufacturers are coating their product in this vile tasting stuff to prevent children from swallowing them)

      Q: Will Acetone "Melt" my Doll??
      A: If you leave it submerged in a bucket full of acetone then yes likely it will... If you use it correctly ie: Wet (soaking wet even) cotton pad - wipe face - throw cotton pad out - repeat until clean - Then no it will not melt your doll. There is a LOT of speculation about this and I've been shot at more than once for saying it but I stick by this statement emphatically. Acetone when used correctly will not melt your doll into a "Wicked Witch" puddle of goo... The greatest attribute to acetone is its incredibly fast evaporation - other chemicals like MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) is similar and will work as well but has an evaporation retarder in it to extend its "wet" period... regular Acetone will disapear into thin air (with water residue) from a shallow dish in the time it takes to make a delicious sandwich.

      Q: There are white marks on my dolls face after I wash it - what are they?
      A: 90% of the time it is residual sealant - using your chosen solvent wipe the white marks until completely removed then rinse again. If they do not come off using this method then the second most likely cause is discoloration or uneven dispersal of the pigment - the only effective way to fix this is to sand carefully or blush-over the area if it is more than a thin layer. On occasion the lightened areas are simply oxidization of the upper layer of resin, on WS and light NS dolls they are rarely noticeable.

      Q: Will soaking my doll in acetone/alcohol/brush cleaner/grannys vanilla frosting etc... clean it faster?
      A: NO NO NO NO NO NO NO.... Negative, Clear?
      Correctly cleaning off a face-up or body blushing can be as time consuming as putting it on in the first place - DO NOT EVER SOAK YOUR DOLL IN A SOLVENT!!!!!!!!!!!!! Take your time the first time and avoid the issues that arise from rushing or doing it the wrong way. The ONLY time I have ever suggested soaking was for someone with black painted Beryl hooves - in warm soapy water to help soften and lift off the THICK layer of Jo Sonjas Acrylic paint. If you soak anything in a chemical solvent you're asking for trouble. You worked hard to have this doll, don't disrespect your effort! Harsh but true.

      Q: What will oil based products do to my doll?
      A: Honestly, home kitchen oils and cosmetic facial products... not much at all - however its the commercial grades and combinations of oil + acid, or oil + solvent, oil + pigment, oil + strong alkaline, the varying types of oils, synthetic vs organic, pure vs mixed. Most resin is porous and the use of some oil-based products can stain and unevenly discolor your doll - only way to fix it is to sand off - its a risk that's not really worth taking unless you are more familiar with the oil type and why exactly you need to use it. In my simplest terms; "Don't Dunk your Delf in Doterra or Diesel."©

      Thanks to RobbinA for this fantastic tutorial:
      Tutorial: Cleaning a Resin BJD Head
       
      #2 whitewings, Oct 9, 2008
      Last edited: Apr 9, 2024
      • x 6
    3. Based on what this says, I just have one question. Is it safe to use sealers with acetone in them, like I think it is? I even talked to my father about it and he said that the acetone was only in them to keep the plastic sealants from setting up in the bottle and that it should evaporate before harming the doll. I'm pretty inclined to trust his experience, but I was also wondering what you thought. Sorry to bother you. :sweat
       
      • x 1
    4. Not sure if you've used this yourself whitewings, but another brand of isopropyl available (at least in aus) is Helmar's Iso Pro - 99.7% pure isopropyl alcohol. I can't use it to touch up while painting a faceup because it takes MSC straight off, completely colourless and no staining at least on RS/BBB resin - I can't vouch for others. Only isopropyl I could find here easily (found at Dick Smith's).
       
    5. Thank you, whitewings!! :sumomo:

      I can add from firsthand experience that 100% acetone, when used correctly, is also safe for these:

      Volks oldskin NS
      Dollstown normalskin (older color name)
      Customhouse NS
       
      • x 1
    6. Thanks Late, I picked one up yesterday to try it out :) I have SOOOO many chemicals in my studio now we had to install a bolt-lock on the outside door.... good reason for my house-mate to quit smoking so he doesnt blow us all to high heaven!!

      (Oh FYI he never smokes in or around my studio - he's a rare breed of courteous smoker that hides downwind, washes his hands and changes his shirt, so as not to offend anyone ..... such a sweetie!!)

      Oh and to answer the question about sealers WITH acetone in it.... MSC is what is called a solvent based sealer, all of the sealers "we" (collective) use have solvents in them.... kinda like how when you put wet nail polish over dry nailpolish you can wipe the dry off too... the solvent in the liquid will often soften the dry layer.... Same with MSC, thats why is recommended to do lighter coats to allow less chance of "re-wetting" the entire surface and cause it to take longer to dry... Saying that.... I'm a soaker with MSC :roll: But your father is correct, there are solvents present in most sealants and providing you dont use an enamel sealer (oil- based) your dolly will be just fine :)
       
      • x 1
    7. Wow, this is really great! :D Thanks so much for your effort! I hope the mods make this a sticky. ^_^

      I can add another resin that I've used these products on.
      -Angell-studio resin has been successfully cleaned with all of your listed products except for non-acetone nailpolish remover.

      Thanks again for such a comprehensive list! Really helpful! <3
       
    8. seriously, mr color thinner is awesome. i dont know exactly what it is (probably similar to the alcohol) but i bought it from leeke, its cheap and works a treat, i wish more people would use it instead of acetone. also, maybe you could bold the parts about acetone being able to damage? i can just imagine someone seeing this, seeing the word acetone first on the list, then not bothering to read properly and splurging it all over their doll.

      ive used color thnner on bobobie, CP NS, CP WS

      edit : i got pure acetone from tesco, at least i was under the impression it was. they only give it over the counter, though. so i dont think it is just hardware stores?
       
    9. Okay... so citric acid eats resin? In that case my non-acetone nail polish remove would be a no-go right...? Only asking because I'm extremely new to this whole 'removing faceup' business. :)

      List of ingredients: Ethyl Acetate, Alcohol Denat., Water, Citric Acid, Benzophenon-3.... and then a list of colours because it's pale yellow...

      I've only used it... once I think. And I wasn't using very much, so I don' think there'd be too much damage to my poor dolls head if I shouldn't be using this stuff....
       

    10. I have used non acetone nail polish remover and it's never done anything to my heads. I do be sure I wash them though.
       
    11. Ciric Acid can be very corrosive on any form of resin and plastic but only when in a concentrated form like the orange oil cleaners for removing things like chewing gum and paint residue,

      Non-acetone polish remover is okay to use, if its a pale colour its quite safe when used as described above. The colours can only be detrimental if they are high concentration, for example a ruby-red polish remover is likely to leave a pinkish residue which sometime can and sometimes cant be washed off. Welcome to face-up club :) *hugs*

      ooh yeah... we got Stickied!! :dance: LOL
       
    12. I hear that Magic Eraser can change the pigment of a tan doll, is this true? If so is it safe to use on a lilac doll.
       
    13. The biggest problem with tan dolls is that depending on the company the tan may be sprayed on, or a coat may have been sprayed on to even out the color, and the tan coloration you see is not the actual color of the resin they are cast in. As for lilac like say bobobie, and some of their other colors, the resin they are cast in is that color and using a Magic Eraser should not cause any color changes.

      You may think you are experiencing some color changes because if you scrub hard enough with the eraser sometimes it will break through the sealant on the doll. Sometimes the sealant makes the resin a slightly darker color than it originaly is
       
    14. My doll is a bobobie, I just got the magic eraser and it will be my first time using it, so i wanted to check before I used it. I would rather be safe than sorry.

      Thank you so much!!
       
    15. Your Bobobie will be all right as the colour goes right through the resin :) And as far as my experience goes the colour is consistent right through which is really nice!! I've done some heavy mods on both a blu and pink and there was no deviation in the colour at all :)
       
    16. I've used Mr. Color Thinner on Narae and it worked nicely.
       
      • x 1
    17. hello:

      how about testors paint thinner?

      juliaanna
       
    18. this is a great thread. I wish I knew about the damanges done with solvent based brush cleaners before hand because my heads has become uneven in texture and discolored at certain places, while the damage is unnoticed from afar, it's still bothersome upclose. :(
       
    19. Hey, I just looked up the system the UK (& EU) uses for listing comestic ingredients as I don't think we use Red #3 and Yellow #5. I discovered for any colour/pigment there will be a 'CI' and then a number.

      Red 3 = CI 45430
      Yellow 5 = CI 19140

      I share because that just took me...too long =).
       
    20. which method do you personally prefer over all of the above and what would you recommend to use on a SOOM doll? please and many thanks! :D
       
    21. Will any brush cleaner work? Like Stencil Magic Brush Cleaner? I asked this at another thread, but no one has answered my question.
       
    22. May I contribute? Windsor Newton brush cleaner is also safe for Luts Tan. I was very carefu with it (like washing off the excess with soap and water every ten minutes) and there is no change to the tan resin at all. :D
       
    23. Windsor and Newton is safe on Bobobie lilac resin--my Hanyuu went through many faceup iterations before I liked it.

      I also used Windsor and Newton to remove body blushing from a Kid Dollmore with no issues, so it's safe to use there too.
       
    24. Ok, I have a noob question. I have 100% acetone from 'Onyx Professional'. It says it's a nail polish remover maximum strength. Now, in the ingredients, it has two things other than acetone..."Triclosan' and 'Denatonium Benzoate". Is this safe to use on my doll to remove a faceup since it's not 'industrial' acetone? >.< I'm going to try my first faceup if I can get her old one off safely. ;P
       
    25. *_* i have the same question except i just bought mine from zellers and its brand is "Truly" (lol), and it's supposedly 100% acetone and its two other ingredients are "parfum" and "denatonium benzoate" would this be okay to use on a SOOM doll and an Iplehouse doll? and it doesnt say whether it's "industrial" or not.. it does say "professional" though xP but quite frankly i dont even know wth "industrial" entails with respect to acetones
       
    26. Do be careful with Windsor and Newton brush cleaner though- I've had accidents with it, I once stored a large bottle in a drawer, well, it leaked somehow and it turned all of the art supplies (plastic brush handles, containers of colored pencils) into plastic soup. It does eat paint, even off of furniture, but it seems paint isnt all that it likes to remove x_x;

      This was after VERY long exposure (I noticed a paint thinner like smell coming from my dresser it was stored in after weeks) but it is powerful stuff indeed.
       
    27. I just wanted to give a heads up, I didn't really think about it but Windsor & Newton is as harsh as a nalipolish remover and when I used it for the first time last night polish bled off my nails and on to my head. So just use caution. It came off easily, but I was confused for a moment when green started showing up on my head.
       
    28. Denatonium Benzoate is actually a flavour, added to chemicals like nail biting solution, topically aplied alcohol etc... It is what makes your fingers taste bitter after using nail polish remover etc... it also triggers your gag reflex making the consumption of any of the afore mention products near imposible, it is only a safety precaution and has no effect on you or your dolls whatso-ever ;)

      Tricolsan is an anti-bacterial aditive and again is in such minute amoiunts that it wont harm you or your resin-kin :)

      The product you have described sounds to be the type used to safely remove false acrylic nails, so it will work effectively but use extreme caution as with all products prolonged exposure of your dolls resin to the acetone will cause the negative effects listed in my first post...

      Happy painting ;)
       
    29. My mom, when I asked her to get me non-acetone nail polish remover, got me Equate brand (Compare to Cutex)

      The ingredients are: Ethyl acetate, alcohol, water, propylene carbonate, dimethyl glutarate, dimethyl succinate, dimethyl adipate, glycerine, gelatice, fragrance, isopropyl alcohol, benzophenone-1, castor oil, denatonium benzoate, D&C red no. 17, D&C yellow no. 11

      Due to the ingredients I have bolded, I guess this would be a no-go, right? But I might be wrong. I read through this thread a few times and confused myself a little. Sorry if this is a stupid question!
       
    30. I was just wondering if anyone has tried eucalyptus oil? i find it works well on viynil dolls and has worked on some plastics but needs to be washed off with warm water afterwards to prevent damage to plastics. I don't know how this works with resin though
       
    31. oil of any kind has been known to seep into resin and become difficult, if not impossible, to remove. i am not sure that i'd attempt using eucalyptus oil on a resin doll.
       
    32. Eucalyptus oil falls in the category of *shouting loudly* NOOOOOOOO as with the citrus oil stain removers etc... it will damage the resin. If you want to show yourself how damaging it can be find a perspex (clear plastic) item and wipe a bit of the oil on it. Within minutes it will milk-up and cloud the surface of the plastic and leave a sticky mess. Its a very very definite NO unless you like > :...(:...(:...(:o:...(:o:...(:...(:...( After cleaning your doll, its not a good idea


      You can use it, castor oil is actually a petroleum product similar to mineral oil, its in such infinitely small amounts it wont affect your dolls resin if you use it as written in the first post and be sure to wash all the residue off with warm soapy water you are guaranteed a good clean. A good idea is to clean the face-up off in stages, especially if there are several coats of sealer, once the visible paint is off, wash it, dry it and clean it again this will allow you to see what areas have the most build-up of sealer and where you need to focus your attention.

      And BTW no-such thing as a stupid question its a smart person who errs on the side of caution where our valuable little dollies are involved ;)
       
    33. Alright, someone in this thread might be able to give me some tips. I'm going to be redoing my friend's Beryl, including her hooves and horns which she has completely painted with black paint. She told me she did spray a coat of MSC before painting them. What would be the best way to remove the paint without sitting there wiping at it for hours on end? Is there maybe anything anyone can recommend that could remove it a little quicker?
       

    34. Use your choice of sealer remover (aceton/brush cleaner etc) and just take off the top coat of MSC, then using a kids soft tooth brush and mild soapy warm water gently scrub off the bulk of the black paint, the paint if its acrylic will lift off quite easily with little effort, you can even leave the hooves to soak for 10-15 minutes in the soapy water to soften the paint then scrub them (gently) with the toothbrush. Once its back to a light grey-ish colour (the paint will have stained the MSC) then get to with the stripper to clean off the remaining MSC and any bits of paint that are still clinging.

      This will work if the paint is acrylic or a water-ased paint. If its an enamel or an acrylic oil sadly there's no choice but to wipe over and over again with your sealer remover of choice. Let us know how you get on too, I know there are a lot of people who will appreciate some pics also!!
       
    35. You may want to add

      Orientdoll Chocolate skin to the DO NOT use with nail polish remover, it lightenes the resin
       
    36. Thank you for the advice whitewings! I used nail polish remover to get the paint off the hooves and horns, and it did come off pretty easily. It was a huge mess of black paint, but it came off pretty well. There is still some light greyish stains in some parts, but they are so light that once I do the blushing, they shouldn't even be noticeable.

      However, I do want to warn everyone that I ran out of my normal off brand Walmart polish remover and had to use Cutex on the one hoof, and it definitely turned the hoof a very light pink color. :| I'm in the process of sanding the hoof just to get the color off, and it's coming off fine, but it did dye it. I've never had a problem with this before. I have no idea why the Walmart brand didn't do this, but Cutex definitely did. So please, add that to the list of warnings!
       

    37. Stoked to hear it came up clean:) Was the Cutex the redish one? I (stupid stupid stupid me) used the red one just to clean an oil-smudge off a shin of a NS Bobobie... and voila... pink leg. Its horrible stuff sometimes!!

      I almost forgot to update. Mr Colour Thinner was safe to use on all the resins I listed under Acetone excluding the Dark Tans in some tests done by my prof., but as we were unable to read the ingredients untill I recieve the PDS (Product Data Sheet) we are unable to be absolutely 100% sure the ingredients wont do long-term damage. However after trying them repeatedly on the resin bits we have here and having nothing but excellent results I wouldnt hesitate to use it myself.
       
    38. Just to clarify - Isopropyl Alcohol... I know it says 90% +, so this is probably fine, but I thought I might double check anyway...

      I went to Bunnings (like a giant hardware store) and they only stocked 100% Isopropyl Alcohol... I'm sure it's safe to use on resin but I just wanted to double check. There are a few black marks on my boys eyes where I can't seem to get the paint off, and Isopropyl is my last resort... I'm not game enough to use acetone... though my dad has a can of it in the garage... ^^;

      Thanks!
       
    39. Mahou, I'm pretty sure on her initial post she said you can use either 100% or the 90% and it would work fine. In fact, it seemed like the alcohol was the most effective while also being the safest.

      The acetone works well but since it makes the resin soft you can cause collateral damage by bumping it too hard, etc. I've got both...not sure yet which one I'll use. It sounds like the alcohol will take a little more elbow grease to work but if it's safer for the doll, I may go with that.

      Of course, I have no direct experience in this :) That was all based on what I read in this thread (and in the Orbyrarium book I got from Haute Doll--they all used acetone for cleaning off face-ups and said essentially the same things).
       
    40. Oops :blush I stand corrected--she said the 100% acetone from the hardware store, not the alcohol. But she does list several brands of alcohol all the way up to 99%. I be surprised if the extra 1% made enough difference that it would be unusable for cleaning a doll.
       
    41. Thanks Lady Artisan! Yeah - I didn't think the extra few percent would do much ^^' Better to be safe than sorry... now... to go and purchase some! Thanks again! :)
       
    42. Well, if I had some I'd try it for you but I now realize I've only got the 91% which I expect will take a lot more elbow grease :ablah: I do have the pure acetone, though, so if I get worn out I can always switch over ;) I can't imagine that 100% alcohol would be worse on the resin than pure acetone, though, so I wouldn't worry too much. You can always do a little test on the inside of the skullcap to be sure there's nothing immediate.
       
    43. I was online trying to help a friend who has a stubborn acrylic stain outside the lip (from volks paint) and in trying to council her though it, I went through all the remedies I'd use, such as Mr Clean Magic Eraser or Rubbing Alcohol (she had neither), as well as a few other doll-friendly products I looked up. I ended with (oil-free) soap and warm water, and I hope that works.
      Having watched a lot of "How Clean is Your House" with Kim & Aggie, I began to wonder about Baking Soda & Warm Water.
      "Cheap & Cheerful!"
      Has anyone ever used that before, and has it worked.
      In theory it seems it would work.
       
    44. To add here, I noticed you mentioned 70% rubbing alcohol isn't suitable for removing testors? I've used 70% with wonderful results; it's very easy to remove sealant with just 70%. I've used it on Angell-Studio, fairyland, and DOD resin and it's worked wonderfully. So if it's the only thing available, it works fine in a tight situation. ^^
       
    45. Thanks for that Kikuka; it can work though the problem with most 70% alcohols is the additives like fragrance, hence the recommendation for commercial grade isopropyl. That and it isn't very effective on MSC ;)
       
    46. Hi, this is my first time posting here... >_>' Been too shy...

      I love this thread~

      whitewings is a really good person. :aheartbea

      Anyway, my boy is a NS AoD doll. My very very first doll. >w<

      I'm Singaporean and so far the brands listed is pretty hard to find. Tamiya and Mr Colour, unfortunately is out of stock and the people aren't exactly sure when they can restock.

      Isoprophyl Alcohol as of a few years back became almost impossible to find(at least areas that I know...I don't run around much as I dislike going out)...so...my mum bought me a Sally Hansen polish remover.

      It's the EXTRA STRENGTH for all nail types with vitamin E.

      Ingredients: acetone, water, propylene carbonate, dimenthyl glutarate, dimethyl succinate, dimethyl adipate, tocopheryl acetate, benzophenone-3, fragrance, hydrolyzed wheat protein, quaternium-15, panthenol, yellow 11

      I told my mum that I don't think it's the type safe for my boy, but she said that the pharmacies selling Sally Hansen only had the Blue, Pink and Yellow coloured ones and from what she could tell, she said the Blue and Pink were definitely the un-safe ones as they were the Remover for Weak Thin Nails and Remover for Artificial & Sensitive Nails.

      I said it might be the remover for artificial and sensitive nails...but she said it was blue~ *_*

      So...ya...we only have those 3 removers over here...@_@

      Or should I just wait for the Tamiya and Mr Colour? Or try to continue hunting for the Isoprophyl Alcohol...?
       
    47. This is just a little trick I learned when doing faceups. I bought a Ziplock bowl with a twist lid and a HUGE container of winsor newton brush cleaner. I actually submerge the whole head in the cleaner for about 15 minutes (altho once I left it in there for three days. I don't reccommend this but it didn't hurt mine) Then I use a automatic toothbrush holding it under the surface. once I'm done I pull it out and wash it off using just a bit of eraser where needed. Then re cap the bowl. This allows me to do many many faceups before the cleaner just gets too cloudy and I get parinoid and change it out.

      One of the advantages of the soak method is that with the toothbrush I have been able to get layers of msc out of ears and ridges that I haven't been able to get out with any other cleaner. Because of the lack of being able to soak the resin in it for any lenght of time with out fearing damage.
       
    48. Can anybody share with me how to tell if there's still MSC on a doll or not? I cleaned off my boy's factory face up but now I'm not sure if there's still residual MSC on the head (i.e., in the ear crevices, etc.). How do you know when it's all gone?
       
    49. Normally the doll will look more shiny and much smoother to touch.

      For me I base on touch first then see later.

      Hope my experience helps~
       
    50. Ooh, I didn't think to feel him first and I'm not sure I'll remember how he felt with the face up/MSC on him, but now that I'm looking at him under "good" light, I can see a couple of very small spots of MSC. So yep, this did help me. Thanks! My only recommendation for people doing it is to make sure you've got some good, bright light. Probably a no-brainer for most people but I was in the living on the couch when I did it and didn't realize how dim the light was in there until now %P
       
    51. Soaking the head sounds like a good idea - getting MSC out of the little crevices in ears/lips/noses and eyes is a night mare... I imagine that if you can soak the head in Windsor and Newton brush cleaner for a while then Methylated Spirits shouldn't be a problem...
       
    52. I'm curious, how long would you let a head soak in Isoprophyl Alcohol for? I don't have much left but I was wondering how long it would take.
       
    53. Idiot here. I had read this thread a long time ago, but forgot about not using acetone on my Lt. Tan Bobobie girl, and now she is lighter under the jaw, at the top of the brow, behind the ears. Any idea about how to fix it? Blush all over her head? Sand the lighter layer? Fortunately, her face and ears seem relatively unscathed.
       
    54. Isabeau: Tanned dolls cannot be sanded, so it would only make the problem worse as she'll just get lighter. You could try and blush the areas that have lightened. It should work fine so long as you seal before and after [:
       
    55. i want to try..but i wonder if they are toxic..
       
    56. Bobobie resin is uniform in colour the whole way through.... Soooooo if you can get your hands on the fabulous sponge backed sanders from cool-cat on ebay (about $3) get the super-fine and give the head a light sand in the whitened areas, I had to sand the entire surface off my lt Tan Ariel before she was a unifom colour again, there will always be very light parts but not noticeable unless you are actually looking for them. Then a light blush and some MSC and it will work beautfiully.


      All the chemicals and solvents listed in the first thread are toxic, however they have been graded safe for human use. Basically this means if you wera a face-mask to stop the bulk of the fumes and work in a well ventilated area (fan on and window open) and a pair of disposeable vinyl (not latex) gloves then you're safe as houses. The biggest problem is repeated prolonged exposure. Acetone fumes can cause symptoms of memory loss and Alcohol fumes can cause severe headaches as well as blurred vision... and then there's Plurisy and Emphesemia when your lungs react to the repeatedly inhaled fumes.

      If you treat your solvents and spray with care and respect as you would any household cleaner then you dont have a thing to worry about ;)
       
    57. I buy nail polish remover from Target which states that it is 100% Acetone. But ingredients also include acetone AND denatonium benzoate.

      So... It's probably not pure acetone - but it is not non-acetone nail polish remover.. is this okay to use??
       
    58. Denatonium benzoate is actually a flavour, it triggers the gag reflex to make it near impossible to swallow the substance it is mixed with. It will have no effect on your dolls whatsoever, but do wash your hands really well afterwards or wear gloves because it can linger on your skin for a couple of days and make everything taste yucky ;)

      THIS ^ is just cool!!! My acetone comes in a 10lts container (also use it to work on out yacht) I'll give the decant into a small container a shot and see how long it stays effective when sealed after each use.... otherwise I go through about $2-$3 worth of cotton balls per doll *_* Not sure about the toothbrush though - my hands are wierd enough without adding vibration into the mix :lol:
       
    59. Can I just say I don't think its a good idea to use isopropyl alcohol (90%+) to remove a face up repeatedly. I have been using it, however it noticably makes the resin a lighter colour after more than a couple of uses and I am very sure that it must do something to the resin because the head is smaller overall compared to before I cleaned it. The headcap was a perfect fit to begin and now, well, its not. Perhaps it softens the resin slightly, or if possible at all, shrink it?
      So if anyone wants to used it to remove a face up I would advise you to not let the head sit in it for any longer than a minute before removing it and using magic eraser/toothbrush to remove the face up. It is however, very good at removing it.
       
    60. I personally have never heard or noticed shrinkage where the use of alcohol is involved but then acetone is my preferered solvent. Repeated exposure to any solvent will over time reduce the saturation of pigment in the resin, especially the darker skin-tones - though the shorter the exposure the less noticeable it will be. I've got some spare hands around that I use as "test dummies" so I'll give them a shot with the alcohol I use to see if there is any noticeable shrinkage and post the results here...

      And I agree with you and highly recomend against extended exposure to any solvent - as per the first post - wipe it clean and wash it off...




      I have to reiterate though - NOT to use the Magic erasers with any type of solvent. It is a waste of time and a waste of an eraser. They are designed to be used with clean water only and by using it with a solvent you run the risk of doing damage to yourself. The solvent will not increase its efficiency and can in some cases be counter productive by clogging the micro-fine fibres with clumps of sealer and paint rather than relying on its "powdering" action where it abraids away micro-fine particles.
       
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